find this (in pic) under the bonnet, it is a bonnet switch, press it repeatedly as fast as you can, the car should beep if you have an alarm. Wait 30 seconds and everything will be back to normal. :L
Ok, It's been a long time,but I am here again.I dont have alarm-this is sure. My question- Is it possible to replace my central locking module with one which have alarm/In Ebay there is many/ , to reprograme the key and to have "factory"alarm? Thanks
no alarm? Lucky you. My car has an alarm and I don't have a remote key, just a bog standard key. You get 30 seconds from when you unlock the car to get in and turn the ignition to stage 2 or the alarm goes off lol.
It is possible to program alarm on your gem through ids and even activate interior scan sensors. Next thing is to wire the interior scan sensors and a alarm horn to your gem en short the wire that should go to the bonnet switch to ground. And then you will have a fully functioning alarm (except of course the bonnet)..
Cost?: maybe €20
Price Ford charged for this option on a new car?: €1.000,-. So in order to protect your car from thieves you had to let Ford steal from you first lol.
I believe only interior sensors are disabled on single lock. Rest of the alarm is functional.
But i noticed that alarms are not really common outside of the UK. I believe it is because there are some laws or insurance issues that obligate an alarm system in the UK, while here in the Netherlands for example you are not obligated to have a alarm.
its either that or in the UK folks buy a car & expect that there is an alarm as they don't want the hassle & expense of looking round for & fitting an aftermarket one but in other countries folks buy a car & then fit a decent after market alarm without having to disable the oem system 1st.
kinda market forces, same way Chinese models tend to be much longer/stretched as they like more rear legroom etc.
& yes, the oem alarm is still active on single lock, it only operates though when the doors are opened - it will not detect movement inside etc - so on early model mondies, you double locked the car & effectively gave the smash & grab folks a free run at your mota as they cannot open the doors so no alarm goes off giving em time to rummage.
then later models got the interior scan sensors which then protect the car when double locked ( ONLY ) so you get single lock protection of the doors as before & then double locking protects from movement inside as well.
mines a retrofit of the interior scan & it only works on double locking
single lock the car & I can be in the car & moving about from front to back seats all day long, nothing, hide behind the front seats & double lock the car, wait about 30 seconds to fully arm, raise my hand so its no longer hidden by the front seat & get deafened due to the additional sirens I have fitted as the alarm triggers
same again when leaving the windows down if double locked, no triggers until either a decent gust of wind gets up or someone sticks an arm through the open window ( or some scrote smashes my closed window & reaches in & grabs my aged & well knackered battery & bodged about with softwared satnav before doing a runner )
single locking though I can leave the windows open & folks can climb in & do what they want unless they open a door & then its noise central again :}
the funniest incident involving my motas alarm has been double locking the car & on the second press holding the lock button to wind the windows up, then not hanging around to make sure the windows went up fully & the passenger one winding itself down as it got stuck on somat ( god knows what as it worked fine later :} )
wandered off into the house & then about 30 minutes later i just heard a car driving down the street a little speedily, then the sound of my car alarm going off & when i went out the car driving down the street had come to a halt not long after my mota & they were checking there car out ( i assume they drove a little close so they were making sure there was no damage seen as folks were about :} ) but basically as they drove past they forced air into the open car window & set off the alarm - oddly enough that car drives much slower past our house now :}
on mine i got a secondary siren to operate inside the car ( i still have the normal on/off horn in the boot in working order - upgraded of coarse ) without a gap in its operation by triggering a relay on the feed for the normal pulsed signal for the alarm, this relay had a suitable size capacitor on it to charge up on the ON pulses & power the relay during the OFF pulses in order to keep the relay active & power going to the siren.
i used that relay to switch the power feed for the siren taken from the parking light wiring to the headlight switch ( its only live when the ignition is OFF so a suitable feed that i never really use otherwise + it was close to the connection point for the alarm feed on the GEM unit for me ( RHD so all in the drivers footwell )
its simple enough to do, required a relay, 2 or 3 diodes & a suitable sized 25v capacitor ( i forget what size uf though ( i seem to think its about 4700uf for a indicator blink - got the same setup in the headlights to dimm my daytime running LED's while indicating - & about 200uf for controlling the pulsing of the interior lights - had to stop the theatre fade for one of my interior light setups that only worked with an on or off feed )
from memory i think i just used a spare 4700uf cap i had which is why my sirens stay going a couple of seconds after the rest of the alarm noises stop :} - experiment for better timing if you want to though :L
this is the interior light dimming to steady mod wiring but the relay setup is similar arrangement ( just bigger cap uf number ) for the pulsed to constant alarm siren
so a pretty simple thing if you wanted to do it :L
as i say the above will differ slightly as its controlling the ground wires & the cap for the alarm is on the + so differences being direction of diodes & cap etc, placement on the relay should be spot on though, but it gives you the idea of the setup :L
I am handy enough to retorift electronic things in my Mondeo using wiring diagrams and simply connect wires but things like capacitators 4700 uf sounds like Chinese to me :lol:
Will have to stick to the on/off horn then i guess.
if your handy with adding bits & you have a soldering iron then its a doddle ( gotta be, i have managed it 5 times now - 1x each headlight ( so 2 ), 1x interior light, 1x alarm siren & 1x regplate lights ( got em coming on with my interior lights for tailgate puddle lighting - actually have a browse round the forum for that mod as that diagram will be spot on for what you need as its positive triggered & feeding a positive source )
the hardest bit of the job is getting the diodes & cap soldered to the relay in a neat fashion after that it should be a doddle - cheap too as it should be a few pounds at most for the parts + a relay ( i think i paid about £1.50 for the cap & about 50p for the diodes & already have the relay etc )
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