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Question about alarm

1K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  compuwiz_uk 
#1 ·
Hi there

Today is my first day here-on this big forum.

The car is Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Ghia manufactered 2003 for Italian market.I have the car from 1 month and I dont know if Ihave alarm or not.

I have central locking,but there is no sound or light when I lock or unlock the car.

How to find out if Ihave alarm or not?

And if I dont have- is it possible to bay one alarm module /from e-bay for example/ and just to replace my original?

Excuse me for my English and thank you :)
 
#2 ·
find this (in pic) under the bonnet, it is a bonnet switch, press it repeatedly as fast as you can, the car should beep if you have an alarm. Wait 30 seconds and everything will be back to normal. :L

post-40648-12837199200001.jpg
 
#4 ·
keys not in car is probably only thing i'd worry about, will only do it when off afaik.
 
#5 ·
Ok, It's been a long time,but I am here again.I dont have alarm-this is sure. My question- Is it possible to replace my central locking module with one which have alarm/In Ebay there is many/ , to reprograme the key and to have "factory"alarm? Thanks
 
#7 ·
Ahhh 30 seconds i thought it was 20.

Have you timed it for us? :D
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
It is possible to program alarm on your gem through ids and even activate interior scan sensors. Next thing is to wire the interior scan sensors and a alarm horn to your gem en short the wire that should go to the bonnet switch to ground. And then you will have a fully functioning alarm (except of course the bonnet)..

Cost?: maybe €20
Price Ford charged for this option on a new car?: €1.000,-. So in order to protect your car from thieves you had to let Ford steal from you first lol.
 
#10 ·
Yes,maybe this is possible,but this could be done only in Ford service centre?Anyway ,at this moment I am not interested in this.

Now one stupid question- Alarm is arming only after double lock/ 2 blinks /?

I never use double lock,so after all maybe I have alarm. Tomorow I will check with double lock.
 
#11 ·
No the alarm arms with a single lock also.

Lock the car and open the bonnet. Unless the bonnet switch has been bypassed.

Lock the car with the windows open and wait a minute or so then open the door from

inside the car.
 
#12 ·
I believe only interior sensors are disabled on single lock. Rest of the alarm is functional.

But i noticed that alarms are not really common outside of the UK. I believe it is because there are some laws or insurance issues that obligate an alarm system in the UK, while here in the Netherlands for example you are not obligated to have a alarm.
 
#13 ·
its either that or in the UK folks buy a car & expect that there is an alarm as they don't want the hassle & expense of looking round for & fitting an aftermarket one but in other countries folks buy a car & then fit a decent after market alarm without having to disable the oem system 1st.

kinda market forces, same way Chinese models tend to be much longer/stretched as they like more rear legroom etc.

& yes, the oem alarm is still active on single lock, it only operates though when the doors are opened - it will not detect movement inside etc - so on early model mondies, you double locked the car & effectively gave the smash & grab folks a free run at your mota as they cannot open the doors so no alarm goes off giving em time to rummage.

then later models got the interior scan sensors which then protect the car when double locked ( ONLY ) so you get single lock protection of the doors as before & then double locking protects from movement inside as well.
 
#14 ·
I know mine has the interior sensors, But couldn't remember if it worked single/double

lock.

I remember testing it. Worked well.

Locked it with both front windows open and no alarm, As soon as i reached in the alarm

sounded.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
mines a retrofit of the interior scan & it only works on double locking

single lock the car & I can be in the car & moving about from front to back seats all day long, nothing, hide behind the front seats & double lock the car, wait about 30 seconds to fully arm, raise my hand so its no longer hidden by the front seat & get deafened due to the additional sirens I have fitted as the alarm triggers

same again when leaving the windows down if double locked, no triggers until either a decent gust of wind gets up or someone sticks an arm through the open window ( or some scrote smashes my closed window & reaches in & grabs my aged & well knackered battery & bodged about with softwared satnav before doing a runner )

single locking though I can leave the windows open & folks can climb in & do what they want unless they open a door & then its noise central again :}

the funniest incident involving my motas alarm has been double locking the car & on the second press holding the lock button to wind the windows up, then not hanging around to make sure the windows went up fully & the passenger one winding itself down as it got stuck on somat ( god knows what as it worked fine later :} )

wandered off into the house & then about 30 minutes later i just heard a car driving down the street a little speedily, then the sound of my car alarm going off & when i went out the car driving down the street had come to a halt not long after my mota & they were checking there car out ( i assume they drove a little close so they were making sure there was no damage seen as folks were about :} ) but basically as they drove past they forced air into the open car window & set off the alarm - oddly enough that car drives much slower past our house now :}
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
How do you get a siren by the way. The signal sent by the gem is a pulse isn't it? So how do you get a continous siren sound?
on mine i got a secondary siren to operate inside the car ( i still have the normal on/off horn in the boot in working order - upgraded of coarse ) without a gap in its operation by triggering a relay on the feed for the normal pulsed signal for the alarm, this relay had a suitable size capacitor on it to charge up on the ON pulses & power the relay during the OFF pulses in order to keep the relay active & power going to the siren.

i used that relay to switch the power feed for the siren taken from the parking light wiring to the headlight switch ( its only live when the ignition is OFF so a suitable feed that i never really use otherwise + it was close to the connection point for the alarm feed on the GEM unit for me ( RHD so all in the drivers footwell )

its simple enough to do, required a relay, 2 or 3 diodes & a suitable sized 25v capacitor ( i forget what size uf though ( i seem to think its about 4700uf for a indicator blink - got the same setup in the headlights to dimm my daytime running LED's while indicating - & about 200uf for controlling the pulsing of the interior lights - had to stop the theatre fade for one of my interior light setups that only worked with an on or off feed )

from memory i think i just used a spare 4700uf cap i had which is why my sirens stay going a couple of seconds after the rest of the alarm noises stop :} - experiment for better timing if you want to though :L

My 54 Plate sets the alarm on single lock and double lock, but the interior sensors only works if its double locked.
good to know my retro fit is working as it should then :L
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)


this is the interior light dimming to steady mod wiring but the relay setup is similar arrangement ( just bigger cap uf number ) for the pulsed to constant alarm siren

so a pretty simple thing if you wanted to do it :L

as i say the above will differ slightly as its controlling the ground wires & the cap for the alarm is on the + so differences being direction of diodes & cap etc, placement on the relay should be spot on though, but it gives you the idea of the setup :L
 
#21 ·
if your handy with adding bits & you have a soldering iron then its a doddle ( gotta be, i have managed it 5 times now - 1x each headlight ( so 2 ), 1x interior light, 1x alarm siren & 1x regplate lights ( got em coming on with my interior lights for tailgate puddle lighting - actually have a browse round the forum for that mod as that diagram will be spot on for what you need as its positive triggered & feeding a positive source )

the hardest bit of the job is getting the diodes & cap soldered to the relay in a neat fashion after that it should be a doddle - cheap too as it should be a few pounds at most for the parts + a relay ( i think i paid about £1.50 for the cap & about 50p for the diodes & already have the relay etc )
 
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