I have a 55 TDCI 2ltr with 40k on the clock. When the engine has warmed up the needle hold in the centre of the gauge perfectly as expected. However in cold temps lower than 3 degrees C It seems to take forever to warm up. The needle stays low for about 23 miles of 30-50mph driving with stops along the way (A14 @ 7am).
I am wondering if one of the stats is faulty, however the needle holds in the centre once its got there ? I have read how to replace the stats and would probably do both at the same time, as I'm dropping some of the coolant.
Thoughts...faulty stat ? or just cold ambient temperatures ?
You could perhaps use the dash diagnostics to follow temperature movements. I don't think it quite reflects cylinder head temperature sensor reading as reported by obd, but it tells you more than the gauge does.
On my old (02) plate car, the radiator/oil cooler hoses stay almost completely cold until the stats open. And on a warm sunny day in September, with the heater on (because I was keeping the coolant temperature below boiling point so as not to pressurise my leaky system), I could drive faster than you're travelling without getting over 80c on the dash diagnostic or warming the hoses. That's stopping every service station on the M25/M4 to check so I know...
okay this makes me think I have an issue. Now I have seen that the leg that holds part of the stat breaks. Is that just the stat or part of the housing. Ford have quoted 35 ex vat for stat or 68 ex vat for housing and stat. Also the oil stat is 24 ex vat.
Mine takes about the same and my EGR valve blanked. If you're stopping a lot then the engine won't heat up. Unlike a petrol engine the diesels don't generate heat while idling especial in sub zero tempratures.
okay, it started behaving okay, and was warm after 5-8miles. Then this am -3 degree ish it rose to the min temp marker slowed to queue in traffic and it dropped to bottom again then took 15 miles to get back to the center !? Its the behaviour of the needle dropping which I find odd.
yep that's sat spot on since owning the car. My plan is to wait for a cold weekend and feel the oil cooler pipe and see if that starts warming up too soon. If not then I suspect main stat.
Okay replaced oil stat yesterday without removing manifold. Using the guide found on here :kaffeetrinker_2: Took it for a spin and warm up time was around 7 miles. So hopefully it's sorted.....Thanks all for the advice so far.
As you can see from the attached images, the design is not great. The inner brass part also has a spring, which I think is the bi-metallic part, which pushes against the pin, which in turn pushes against the main spring, opening the valve. On mine the pin would not move freely in the brass section and the sealing washer on the brass part seemed to be stuck the the main body of the valve.
That was interesting. Not seen one in bits before. Did the closing spring still have a reasonable closing force? I'm almost tempted to pull mine out for a look.....
That was interesting. Not seen one in bits before. Did the closing spring still have a reasonable closing force? I'm almost tempted to pull mine out for a look.....
Always have to take things apart ! Yes the closing spring is surprisingly strong as its compressed when in the body. I think the bi-metallic spring inside the brass part goes weak and coupled with the close tolerance of the pin in the brass part causes it to stick. Anyway that's my theory :crazy:
Suppose these things are designed to fail open but on the face of it youd think bimetallic failure would leave pin unpushed and valve closed.. !
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