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Warmup time

962 views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  oldbod 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have a 55 TDCI 2ltr with 40k on the clock. When the engine has warmed up the needle hold in the centre of the gauge perfectly as expected. However in cold temps lower than 3 degrees C It seems to take forever to warm up. The needle stays low for about 23 miles of 30-50mph driving with stops along the way (A14 @ 7am).

I am wondering if one of the stats is faulty, however the needle holds in the centre once its got there ? I have read how to replace the stats and would probably do both at the same time, as I'm dropping some of the coolant.

Thoughts...faulty stat ? or just cold ambient temperatures ?

Cheers,

M
 
#3 ·
Blanked egr?

You could perhaps use the dash diagnostics to follow temperature movements. I don't think it quite reflects cylinder head temperature sensor reading as reported by obd, but it tells you more than the gauge does.

On my old (02) plate car, the radiator/oil cooler hoses stay almost completely cold until the stats open. And on a warm sunny day in September, with the heater on (because I was keeping the coolant temperature below boiling point so as not to pressurise my leaky system), I could drive faster than you're travelling without getting over 80c on the dash diagnostic or warming the hoses. That's stopping every service station on the M25/M4 to check so I know...
 
#6 ·
I have a 55 TDCI 2ltr with 40k on the clock

Wow, that's low for a 9 year old car.

re stats:- I don't think the distance you're doing (with stops) is conclusive enough to form an opinion...and it has been v. cold lately.
 
#8 ·
okay, it started behaving okay, and was warm after 5-8miles. Then this am -3 degree ish it rose to the min temp marker slowed to queue in traffic and it dropped to bottom again then took 15 miles to get back to the center !? Its the behaviour of the needle dropping which I find odd.
 
#9 ·
Its too efficient at idle. The engine produces less heat. Partially why a lot of manufacturers

now fit aux heaters to the diesel models.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
As you can see from the attached images, the design is not great. The inner brass part also has a spring, which I think is the bi-metallic part, which pushes against the pin, which in turn pushes against the main spring, opening the valve. On mine the pin would not move freely in the brass section and the sealing washer on the brass part seemed to be stuck the the main body of the valve.

Automotive tire Wood Tire Auto part Bicycle part


Wood Bicycle part Auto part Hardwood Fashion accessory
 

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#14 ·
That was interesting. Not seen one in bits before. Did the closing spring still have a reasonable closing force? I'm almost tempted to pull mine out for a look.....
 
#15 ·
That was interesting. Not seen one in bits before. Did the closing spring still have a reasonable closing force? I'm almost tempted to pull mine out for a look.....
Always have to take things apart ! Yes the closing spring is surprisingly strong as its compressed when in the body. I think the bi-metallic spring inside the brass part goes weak and coupled with the close tolerance of the pin in the brass part causes it to stick. Anyway that's my theory :crazy:
 
#16 ·
Suppose these things are designed to fail open but on the face of it youd think bimetallic failure would leave pin unpushed and valve closed.. !
 
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