Just bought a 2010 mk4 face lift Titanium auto, standard stereo is ok but would like to replace it with my single din Kenwood. I know I will need a fascia & probably an ISO harness but was wondering if it would cause any issues with the canbus system (never had a motor with it) or the display by the speedo. Also how do you get the factory stereo out ?
Cheers in advance for any help
I haven't tried this, but this is what would expect to happen:
You'll only have the existing Canbus functionality if your replacement unit has the appropriate Can bus connections. My impression is that single DIN units do not tend to have any Canbus connection, so that would rule that out. It rules out using the steering wheel buttons to control volume, for example.
Again, my impression is that if your HU doesn't drive that via Canbus, you'll lose that totally. If you are lucky, you'll lose that but it will look reasonably neat. If you aren't, you'll still get some of the existing elements, but without the full info, and it could look a bit of a mess.
Thanks Spare Wheel after doing a bit of googling it looks as if the convers+ display for the stereo will be lost which won't bother me as I don't like it anyway if i'm honest & the parking sensors won't work but again that's not an issue as there is a fault on them anyway
Sorry for the late reply guys life got in the way as my step daughter had to have an emergency c section but they are both doing well & I now have a granddaughter. Now I can start focusing on the car again, going to order the fascia soon but have 2 options when it comes to the iso patch cable a normal or a canbus decoder one, am I right in thinking i'Lloyd need the canbus one ? (I always manually turn the stereo on or off once the car has started up or going to be switched off) next bit is how on earth I get the centre part of the dash out as mines different from the one in the video found a pic which is the same dash as mine
Congrats with granddaughter!
Although dash looks different than on the video, it will be pretty much the same.
Also wonder why you would change the HU? The Sony one is pretty good.
Congrats with granddaughter!
Although dash looks different than on the video, it will be pretty much the same.
Also wonder why you would change the HU? The Sony one is pretty good.
The factory one is ok but the sound quality is no where near as good as the Kenwood one i'll be replacing it with plus will be adding my amp & sub as well for now then most likely a second amp will be going in next year
Most of it applies to the Mk4.5 as well, but the procedure for removing the side panels with start button and shifter surround is a bit different.
I highly recommend getting some plastic tools for trim removal, rather than metal ones.
Also, you might need a CAN bus decoder for the ignition feed and dash illumination. The majority of them include a Quadlok to ISO converter as part of the wiring harness, because your Kenwood most likely has ISO terminals for power and speakers.
You could get one that includes support for use of the remote buttons on the steering wheel (Volume up/down, next/previous track). There are a few manufacturers of such adapters out there, but Connects2 seems to be popular.
If you have parking sensors: CTSFO011 (because the Mk4.5 doesn't have a separate buzzer for this, unlike the Mk4.0)
If you don't have parking sensors: CTSFO003.2
Also, you'll need a patch lead for the Kenwood's remote input.
Which one (CTKENWOODLEAD or CTKENWOODLEAD2) depends on what model your Kenwood is.
Thanks that has been a great help, i'm not bothered about the parking sensors as there is a fault with them anyway, the only thing i'm not sure on is the patch lead you mentioned for the remote input
Would just like to thank everyone for their help, managed to get it changed over the other day & it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be just a little tight at the back for the wiring. Next job is going to find somewhere to run a power cable through the bulkhead to power my amp & then can get my temporary sub box in while I work on the boot build to go across the back seats
The current bulkhead cable feed is a pig of a grommet to traverse. If it's auto transmission you have (which is what it looks like to me in the photo), spend a bit of extra cable and go through the clutch pedal blanking plate instead.
The blanking plate is a plastic plate that clicks into place. Push it into the cabin from the engine bay side,
and you can then remove it, and drill a hole in it that fits a grommet for your positive power feed.
Feed the battery end of the cable back into the engine bay, and run it accordingly to your fuse holder.
Use cable ties to get the other end out of the way of your feet and the brake pedal medhanics, feeding it towards the passenger footwell.
Once you go for the boot build, route the power feed and the remote turn on feed from your radio along the passenger door sill, and audio line under the center console or along the driver side door sill.
This to avoid interference, as the car already has power and CAN feeds going along the passenger side door sill.
Good luck with the project.
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