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5 seconds running then cut out after new TDCI pump (P2288 P0191 P1211) - Diesel Engines (Mondeo Mk3) - TalkFord.com

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5 seconds running then cut out after new TDCI pump (P2288 P0191 P1211)


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23 replies to this topic

#1 onj

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Posted 07 November 2009 - 05:16 PM

Hi

BACKGROUND:

I finally replaced the high pressure pump. Not as hard as I thought it would be but anyway. The car's been standing for a while so the battery needed a charge.
I primed the filter by sucking fuel through. All cables etc are back where they started.
On cranking, it usually starts, then runs for 3-5 seconds then cuts out with the coil light flashing.

DTC'S:

Number P1000
Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled
Description OBD II Monitor Testing Not Complete Conditions
Cause Key on or engine running, this code is set when a PCM Reset is performed and then one or more of the OBD II Main Monitors have not been completed It should be cleared from the PCM to pass an I/M Test for registration

Number P2288
Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description Injector Control Pressure Too High

Number P0191
Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Performance Conditions
Cause Engine running, then the PCM detected that the FRP sensor signal was more than 85 psi [138 kPa] or less than 20 psi [138 kPa] during the self-test

Sometimes instead of P0191 I get P1211 which is another vague rail pressure one.

There's also a series of 3 whirrs after the engine cuts out like a servo activating, I can't tell where though.

TRIED:

I've taken the leakoff tubes to see how much comes out, and on cranking there's a small well of fuel around each injector but engine wont start at all.

Disconnecting rail pressure sensor doesnt work either.

DTC's dont seem to want to clear with my FORmiDable. I didnt see any point in recoding the injectors, they seem to be recognised.

Lots of white smoke when it does run. Sounds like cyl's are knocking quite bad, worse at first and much less noticable now (I assume this was air going through).

QUESTION:

In short, are my injectors knackered (I know they can be taken out by the pump), do I have air in the system, do I need to reset/recode/bleed something?

Many Thanks

Onj

#2 graemewelch

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Posted 07 November 2009 - 06:44 PM

most likly to be knackered injectors, if the pump has been replaced you realy should of had the fuel checked for metal particles. if theres any in the fuel then itll knacker the pump again

#3 guffer

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 03:11 PM

What went with the old pump? As Graeme says, any swarf will not do it any good.
It could also be the fuel rail pressure sensor itself, or I think there is an IMV (Inlet Metering Valve) on the back of the pump itself, which might be faulty itself

#4 onj

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 07:57 PM

Old pump just failed, no bang, pop or anything exciting. Engine just cut out on deceleration.

I have time but not money, so it's been off the road for a bit while I do things cheap as poss or scrap it for whatever I can get for it.

I drained all the pipework, but I suspect that any swarf from the pump imploding would have already made it to the injectors when it failed, so not particularly interested in spending however much it costs to get the Sainsburys fuel in the tank checked out - likely a red herring.

Leading up to the failure I have a gut feeling something was on its way out (over many tanks of fuel), as performance had slowly and steadily started to drop - not to very rough engine conditions just that the edge had gone from the engine, idle was a bit lumpy etc. Perhaps injector(s) had blocked and put stress on the pump, I don't know. I do know old pump was dead, new one seems to do something, and it cost me a LOT less than 1000 for tools, filter and pump!

Cheers
onj

#5 onj

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 07:59 PM

Just to add, I plan to do a few tests when I get time:

A proper leak off test.
Check the FRP reading.
Check the FRP with brown connector disconnected for 5 seconds (where it should be > 1000)

Hopefully should give more insight, but tbh I'm thinking it's new injector time.

Cheers
onj

#6 onj

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 04:55 PM

The thing I'm still thinking about is why it will run almost fine for 5 seconds then cut out - surely if the injectors were fubar then it would be really rough?

Ideas welcome. Going to look at data this w/e.

Cheers
onj

#7 onj

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Posted 14 November 2009 - 06:28 PM

Just to keep this up to date for future reference..

Tested the Fuel Rail Pressure today, it climbs until 1800 (1-5 seconds) then the engine cuts out and coil light flashes.

While the engine is running there is the knocking sound which seems to be classic injector problem.

Oh and there's not a noticable amount of white smoke out of the exhaust anymore - it was probably just crap that dripped into the cyl.

I think I have 1 or 2 blocked up injectors but no fault code telling me, and I've no idea which or how to test... Not sure what to do now!

I might try the obvious things like checking brown connector on pump is connected tomorrow.

Why can't injectors be like washer sprayers, i.e. when they get blocked you just stick a pin in them?

Cheers,
onj

#8 guffer

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Posted 14 November 2009 - 09:25 PM

1800? Is that bar or PSI? Makes a big difference.

#9 onj

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 11:17 AM

bar

#10 guffer

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 01:17 PM

When it starts it should show something like 300 bar of pressure. The 1800 should show pretty quickly if you stamp on the loud pedal and drop right back down again as soon as you take your foot off.
The fuel rail pressure sensor could be duff if you were using a handheld scanner to read the pressure. Dont suppose you have any means to read the pressure without the sensor in the fuel rail?




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