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Battery light plus whining noise from engine


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#1 malphadour

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Posted 16 December 2009 - 07:21 PM

Hi,

After 30,000 miles trouble free, its nearly Xmas so the damn thing has decided to finally chuck a wobbler at me.

I get battery light comes on, things such as electric windscreen refuse to power (assume it checks available juice) and there is a whining noise from the engine on the right hand side (as you are driving) where the belt is. Had the bonnet up, it is definately from that end of the engine, it sounds like the power steering pump but does it whilst sat going nowhere. Initially its really bad, then the battery light goes out and the whine is reduced (as if something has freed up) but still continues albeit a lot quieter.

Any ideas, need to fix it fast as supposed to be traversing the country next week.

sticking alernator was my first thought - excuse my ignorance, i'm great on Pinto's but I just don't bother with modern engines they hurt my head!! :sad:
2002 Mark 3 Zetec S 2.5 V6 Metalic Blue

Previous Cars
2000 Mark 2 Ghia 2 litre
1993 Mark 1 Ghia 2 litre Auto (smooth)
1982 Siera Ghia 2 litre very modded suspension and complete engine rebuild 130bhp with a carb!!
1983 Capri LS - 2 litre S engine, manifold exaust and interior fitted, then some moron smashed it to pieces, and then another one did just as I got paid out to fix it.

#2 gazeddy

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Posted 16 December 2009 - 08:19 PM

that sounds like the alternator is goosed
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#3 Fred22

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Posted 16 December 2009 - 10:43 PM

hi buddy, your problem will be that the multiplug on the alternator is a bit loose, and its not in right, so u will hear this whirling/whinning noise from that side of the engine bay, now i would make sure it is pushed in all the way, u should have 2 of them, and it will be either the big black one, or the little while one that is loose, but i would make sure u get to it and push it in tight, if it is these which i am 99 percent sure it will be and you keep running the car like this, and with the winter weather here, u will put alot of stress on your loom and can cause a fire which will melt the wiring loom and alternator,

as said i would sort it out asap if i were u, good luck with it, hope this helps :)
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#4 malphadour

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 12:13 AM

That sounds like a hot lead (almost literally) will give it a bash - er, where are these multi plugs, am i looking somewhere at the bottom of the block on tht side?

And many thanks for that btw
2002 Mark 3 Zetec S 2.5 V6 Metalic Blue

Previous Cars
2000 Mark 2 Ghia 2 litre
1993 Mark 1 Ghia 2 litre Auto (smooth)
1982 Siera Ghia 2 litre very modded suspension and complete engine rebuild 130bhp with a carb!!
1983 Capri LS - 2 litre S engine, manifold exaust and interior fitted, then some moron smashed it to pieces, and then another one did just as I got paid out to fix it.

#5 Fred22

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:16 PM

i like the puns :}


the multi plugs are on the alternator itself, they will be situated on your drivers side bottom of the engine, so best to get at it from the bottom, if you jack your car up, then u will be able to get under there and then see the alternator and the wiring to it will be on the bottom of the alternator, u need to see if the plug is loose on them, u will have 2 of them as well as 1 nut that provides the power,


just make sure these are pushed in fully so that it will solve your problem with the battery light and the lights flickering, hope this helps :)
98 Ford Mondeo/Contour v6 :)

my st24 turbo progress

my garage

Dont fcuk with this St24
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#6 malphadour

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 12:34 PM

Hi, tried but to no avail, so defo alternator shot. Took it into ford as have friend who works there and frankly its to damn cold to do the job myself, they have confirmed the alternator is shot, so fair enough hit me with it ........ £730 to fix it!!!!!!

Excuse me, are you on drugs I ask, no, apparently they have to drop the chassis on the v6 to repalce the alternator and belt - bare in mind the belt is only 55000 miles old - is this total BS???? Considering that it looks like it jsut needs de-tentioning - 4(?) bolts and then slap a new one in this sounds like a joke to me.

Anyone??
2002 Mark 3 Zetec S 2.5 V6 Metalic Blue

Previous Cars
2000 Mark 2 Ghia 2 litre
1993 Mark 1 Ghia 2 litre Auto (smooth)
1982 Siera Ghia 2 litre very modded suspension and complete engine rebuild 130bhp with a carb!!
1983 Capri LS - 2 litre S engine, manifold exaust and interior fitted, then some moron smashed it to pieces, and then another one did just as I got paid out to fix it.

#7 52graphite

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 01:12 PM

Sounds exaggerated to me. On the V6, you need to go in through the RH wheelarch, remove the belt, remove the steering gaiter shield, take the tie rod off the knuckle and then the alternator can be removed (three bolts, 47Nm). You should fit a new tie-rod end nut when reassembling.

A similar procedure (although without the complication of the tie rod) on the wife's C-MAX at a Ford dealer cost me around £200 with a discount on the alternator.

Go back and ask them to show you their workshop manual that says you need to "drop the chassis". Do you have a Haynes manual?
my name is Mark.
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#8 Andys_V6

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 05:34 PM

Hi, tried but to no avail, so defo alternator shot. Took it into ford as have friend who works there and frankly its to damn cold to do the job myself, they have confirmed the alternator is shot, so fair enough hit me with it ........ £730 to fix it!!!!!!

Excuse me, are you on drugs I ask, no, apparently they have to drop the chassis on the v6 to repalce the alternator and belt - bare in mind the belt is only 55000 miles old - is this total BS???? Considering that it looks like it jsut needs de-tentioning - 4(?) bolts and then slap a new one in this sounds like a joke to me.

Anyone??


Hi.. just looked at Fords manual on the V6 and according to that you don't need to drop the subframe to remove the alternator... as 52graphite says it's removeable through the drivers wheelarch after removal of the splash shield, accessory belt and tie-rod... back to Ford and ask WTF??

If you are stuck and need the car fixed ASAP then maybe get it done at a local garage or if you can wait remove it yourself and get it repaired/reconditioned either way it wil be a lot cheaper...whereabouts in Bristol are you?

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#9 Fred22

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Posted 22 December 2009 - 05:00 PM

hi buddy, they are takin the p!ss, u dont have to drop the frame, ive done it loads of times and though tight, its doable, if a home mechanic can do it at his front drive outside, surely these monkeys can do it with their expensive machines!
98 Ford Mondeo/Contour v6 :)

my st24 turbo progress

my garage

Dont fcuk with this St24
Shudda bRought a Scooby