Jump to content





News Feed (View All Updates)


Photo

Alternator belt tensioner replacement


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
13 replies to this topic

#1 andyb88

andyb88

    Megger

  • Members
  • 105 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 01:22 PM

Just had my Mk3 facelift serviced, told my chap that it had a bit of a "rattle" on the engine somewhere...

He has come back and told me that it is the alternator belt tensioner that is the problem. He also added that he wasn't interested in doing the job as it is quite involved.

Anybody got any experiance of this?

Or is a trip to Fraud's?

Best Regards, and a Merry Xmas to all.

Andy B.

#2 TruckerJoe

TruckerJoe

    HGV Driver

  • Members
  • 1,227 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 02:34 PM

i get that myself sometimes when its cold or damp
Facelift 2003 Zetec S TDCi 130 in Machine Silver

Current Mods: Got too many to put in my sig

My MEG Garage Updated last: 24th Feb 2010

#3 rickybotts_123

rickybotts_123

    Back again

  • Members
  • 1,200 posts
  • 2 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 03:37 PM

The auxilary drive belt tensioner aint very hard to change yourself, bit fiddley but thats about it. May also be worth doing belt and bottom pulley at same time. Althought the rumble/rattle can return only a few thousand miles down the road

The all 3 in a kit are only £200. Sure theres a wiki on it to.

HTH
Current
Mk4 2.0 Duratec Edge in Tango

Previous
Mk3 2.0 TDCI Ghia in Deep rosso re
Mk2 1.8 Verona in electric current red
Mk3 1.8 LX in Medium steel blue
Mk2 2.0 Zetec-S in Silver

#4 dojj

dojj

    Resident Wrestling Legend

  • Gold Member
  • 3,444 posts
  • 13 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 04:07 PM

if it's anything like the connect, it's an engine out job, so hope it's got lots more room in the engine bay, which is probably why he's not intrested in the undertaking of such a big job
mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done (still looking for fog light surrounds)

#5 dojj

dojj

    Resident Wrestling Legend

  • Gold Member
  • 3,444 posts
  • 13 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 04:08 PM

i tell a lie, it looks as easy as boiling an egg :)

http://fordwiki.co.u...ner_replacement
mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done (still looking for fog light surrounds)

#6 The Guv.

The Guv.

    DRIVEN...

  • Members
  • 4,122 posts
  • 19 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 05:32 PM

That's the petrol engine...

I could rebuild a Mondeo from the ground up with my eyes closed... that's thanks to owning a TDCI.


#7 hmarchbank

hmarchbank

    Megger

  • Members
  • 61 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 07:01 PM

there is an article that was posted a couple of months ago with photos on how to change it and fabricating your own tool. this is a common problem on these cars.

http://www.fordmonde...php?tid/816315/

#8 rickybotts_123

rickybotts_123

    Back again

  • Members
  • 1,200 posts
  • 2 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 08:30 PM

No need to have engine out, but do a search on here theres loads of tips and tricks to help you along.

hmarchbank is right though you do need to make a tool as there isn't enough room to get a rachet head in the tensioner to give some slack

Good luck with it.
Current
Mk4 2.0 Duratec Edge in Tango

Previous
Mk3 2.0 TDCI Ghia in Deep rosso re
Mk2 1.8 Verona in electric current red
Mk3 1.8 LX in Medium steel blue
Mk2 2.0 Zetec-S in Silver

#9 Longhorn109

Longhorn109

    Megger

  • Members
  • 126 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 23 December 2009 - 09:01 PM

You don't need to take the engine out just drop it a bit so the bolts come out. There is a special tool to slacken the tensioner off.

#10 andyb88

andyb88

    Megger

  • Members
  • 105 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:58 PM

Thanks for all the replies, just read through the how to posted by Markderby. It don't look difficult does it... It's just so b****y cold out!

Think I might phone Fraud and ask them how much they want...

As this is a known problem, do they ever give up and fail compleatly, and if they do what damage is caused?

Andy B.