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MOT Failure Corroded Rear Brake Pipes


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#1 chuckandchance

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 05:51 PM

Hi All,

I have a 51 plate 2.0l saloon which has today failed its MOT on corroded rear brake pipes the inspector informed me both rear pipes are corroded above the rear sub frame everywhere else is greased up and OK.

My questions are as follows, firstly is it a diy job? I can borrow a flairing tool if needs be and buy some copper pipe and couplings. Also what size pipe and couplings are they on this model and will there be couplings in the rear subframe area which could be split enabling a whole section to be replaced or will I have to cut a section out and replace just the corroded part??

Sorry for all the qu's its just I will be sticking my head under the car tomorrow to see for myself, just thought if anyone had a similar problem and has done the job they could give me the heads up!!


Cheers in advance fella's.
Ste.

#2 Mabok01

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:03 PM

It is doable if you know what you are doing. As far as I know you have to cut the existing pipes and replace there are no joints afaik.
When replacing mines my mechanic routed them around the tank rather than dropping the tank to replace them as was.

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#3 stripe88

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:16 PM

pressure couplings are at the side of the tank (on mine) would unscrew one and take it to the local motorfactors for size. some motorfactors will make the pipe up for you if you take the old ones in.

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#4 Gary Price

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:24 PM

It is feasible as a DIY job.

The original pipes will be steel. Replacements are usually copper or CuNi
Most flaring tools are only capable of flaring copper pipes, steel is much harder.
Hence you will have to replace complete pipes because you won't be able to flare the ends of the steel pipes.
They are not always as inaccessible as they appear, once released from the retaining clips they will move a fair way.
As for size nearly all brake pipes are usually 3/16" and fittings 10mm.
(1/4" pipe is usually for fuel lines).

If you havn't used the flaring tool before practice a few times before removing the pipes form the car.

Gary

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#5 Budgie

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 12:14 AM

I've heard a few people who have replaced the rear section have routed them around the tank rather than dropping the tank to replace them. The redundant corroded ones are just left in situ behind the tank.

Neil

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#6 f50sean

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 01:25 AM

I done mine last year i cut the pipes half way up the floor and using an on car brake flaring tool turned the ends on the steel pipes making sure you put the nut on the pipe before flaring, Then i took the whole rear subframe out (there actually handy to take out) this leaves all the rear brake pipes sitting looking at you. With the old pipes removed i shaped my copper ones around it cutting to exact length then refitted they had all the bends in the rite place and clipped into all the original clips so looked nice and neat

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#7 totalguy

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 10:55 AM

subframes are easy to remove as well. disconnect droplinks and 2 arms from the hub undo the 4 bolts and out it comes anti roll bar n all
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#8 Deet27

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 09:20 PM

Hi Chuck, Mine failed the MOT on both rear brake pipes, How did you get on with replacing the pipes?
2001 Mondeo 2.0 Duratec




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