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MOT Failure Corroded Rear Brake Pipes
Posted 11 October 2011 - 05:51 PM
I have a 51 plate 2.0l saloon which has today failed its MOT on corroded rear brake pipes the inspector informed me both rear pipes are corroded above the rear sub frame everywhere else is greased up and OK.
My questions are as follows, firstly is it a diy job? I can borrow a flairing tool if needs be and buy some copper pipe and couplings. Also what size pipe and couplings are they on this model and will there be couplings in the rear subframe area which could be split enabling a whole section to be replaced or will I have to cut a section out and replace just the corroded part??
Sorry for all the qu's its just I will be sticking my head under the car tomorrow to see for myself, just thought if anyone had a similar problem and has done the job they could give me the heads up!!
Cheers in advance fella's.
Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:03 PM
When replacing mines my mechanic routed them around the tank rather than dropping the tank to replace them as was.
2004 Hatchback 130 TDCI Inkblue Mileage 443.000 Miles.
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Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:16 PM
Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:24 PM
The original pipes will be steel. Replacements are usually copper or CuNi
Most flaring tools are only capable of flaring copper pipes, steel is much harder.
Hence you will have to replace complete pipes because you won't be able to flare the ends of the steel pipes.
They are not always as inaccessible as they appear, once released from the retaining clips they will move a fair way.
As for size nearly all brake pipes are usually 3/16" and fittings 10mm.
(1/4" pipe is usually for fuel lines).
If you havn't used the flaring tool before practice a few times before removing the pipes form the car.
Posted 12 October 2011 - 12:14 AM
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Posted 12 October 2011 - 01:25 AM
Posted 12 October 2011 - 10:55 AM
Boost Pressure = ((MAP x 10) - BARO)/6.895 (use with F-Super readings)
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Posted 05 November 2011 - 09:20 PM