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Flashing glow plug light, loss of power. HELP!


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#1 damoitfc

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:06 PM

Have just driven back to Essex from the Isle of Wight - left the motorway and the glow plug light was flashing with a loss of power, EML came on. Car then cut out but restarted straight away. Dash diagnostic check is not returning any DTC codes. EML light now off but fault still there. No smoke, running normal but as soon as I accelerate hard the glow plug light flashes and the power drops. 2007 TDCI 130. 144k. Any advice, help, tips - I think this is going to be expensive!

#2 Mabok01

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:28 PM

Have just driven back to Essex from the Isle of Wight - left the motorway and the glow plug light was flashing with a loss of power, EML came on. Car then cut out but restarted straight away. Dash diagnostic check is not returning any DTC codes. EML light now off but fault still there. No smoke, running normal but as soon as I accelerate hard the glow plug light flashes and the power drops. 2007 TDCI 130. 144k. Any advice, help, tips - I think this is going to be expensive!


You will need to get the fault codes read to be sure. Good independent garage should be able to read them or a mobile diagnostic service. F-super is also available on eBay for about £20/30 if you have a laptop. It will read and recode injectors on your car and read and clear DTC codes.

The dash only gives dtc's for dash faults not engine faults.

Flashing glowplug light usually indicates a fuelling or air intake problem.

Off the top of my head it could be turbo, Injectors Fuel filter.

2004 Hatchback 130 TDCI Inkblue Mileage 443.000 Miles.

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#3 damoitfc

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:38 PM

Thanks for the reply - Think the turbo is OK as it still works inbetween the loss of power! Will get a proper diagnostic done and then go from there. Fuel Filter would be great though - injectors not so. Thnaks again.

#4 PURPLE_2L_LX

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:15 AM

Mine had the flashing glowplug light because of sticky turbo vanes, Didnt get the EML though.

It didnt happen all the time either.

Fuel filters do tend to get neglected, Lots of garages dont change them unless you specifically ask.

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#5 damoitfc

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:52 PM

Tried again this morning - car ran fine until warm then started jumping under acceleration. No flashing lights today. Can you explain sticky turbo vanes? Thanks

#6 PURPLE_2L_LX

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:36 AM

See this post, The parts get covered in soot/carbon and movement gets restricted. You need to get the fault codes
read though before jumping to conclusions and replacing parts at random though.

http://www.talkford....ost__p__1865271

2004 TDCi 130 LX Estate. (6)


MK3 FUSE INFO CLICK HERE ......... FORD WIKI CLICK HERE ........... FORD ETIS CLICK HERE


Adding your location may find someone local who could offer assistance.

F-Super, Bluetooth OBDII (ELM) and a MS509 scanners (test subjects required).


#7 davidoneman

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:30 AM

I had this problem and it was a faulty egr valve , mines the 2.2 jaguar engine and the valve was much cheaper at jag garage than fords replaced and no problems . Bought the code reader from ebay did show the fault once but fault didnt always come up . Hope it helps

#8 Josh Davis

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 09:25 AM

*
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By an chance, was the engine rather warm before the incident occured? was it a warm day?

Mine does EXCATLY the same as this when my car is hot, on warm days in the afternoon i just simply cannot drive my car, and its because of sticky vanes.

Althought its been temporarily been fixed, but if it is this, it could mean you will have to pay to get your turbo taken out (and its very rare a mechanic will agree to do this, they would rather replace it) cracked open and the internals cleaned up on the exhaust side and also could mean replacing the actuator.

This happens when all the soot and exhaust gases go through the exhaust/hot side of the turbo and some of the stuff that sticks to the fins of the turbo over the years/miles which remains within the turbo and build up a stick compund, which when hot, will cause your veins on the turbo to not operate correctly and jam, which in turn switches off the turbo and worse cases also turns off the engine.

You have caught it early by the sounds of it, so id suggest get it into a garage, or do it yourself, and get it on a code reader and find out excaltly what the issue is, and if i am right and its sticky veins, your lucky you caught it early instead of just ignore it ;)
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#9 damoitfc

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:25 PM

Many thanks for all the replies - had the fault code read today and its
P0251
Any help, advice, suggestions?

#10 Mabok01

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 05:27 PM

Common fault code that one. Simply means the fuel pressure is too low.

Unfortunately doesn't help in finding a cure. Like I said previously it could be as simple as a fuel filter change and as serious as needing a turbo or 4 injectors.

First thing is change the fuel filter for a good quality Ford/Bosch/Delphi one as these are the top three recommendations for filters on this forum and then go from there. Also recommended on this forum is to cut the old filter open and check the fuel inside for metal swarf. place said fuel into a glass or plastic container and use a magnet to check if any particles contained in the fuel are magnetic. If they are this can be a sign of fuel pump failure and will require the replacement of pump/injectors and thorough cleaning of the fuel pipes and tank.

Next step is a leakoff test and/or clear tubing between the filter and fuel pump to check for excess air in the fuel. A leakoff test will often show up faulty injectors but it isn't definitive as injectors can pass a leakoff test and still be faulty but it is a good starting point. Can also be done DIY if you check a few threads on here about how to do one.

2004 Hatchback 130 TDCI Inkblue Mileage 443.000 Miles.

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