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High Idle


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#1 HenrikSWE

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:03 PM

Hi,

I recently got problem with high idle on my Ford Mondeo Ghia 2004 2.0l

When I press down the clutch while driving it hangs around 2k-3k rpm.
When I stop at redlight it usually slowly go down to around 1k rpm, if I press the break it usually goes down faster.

When the engine is warm and running steady around 1k rpm, I tried to disconnect the IAC but it's not noticeable, should not the rpm decrease or engine stall if I disconnect it?

When driving whithout the IAC connected. The car runs more smoothly, and no high rpm's while pressing down the clutch.

I think the IAC is working as it should though, when it's connected I can see that it compensates when turning on the AC.

My guess is vacuum leaks, I sprayed with gas but can't seem to find a leak.

Read that it's common with leak on a PVC pipe, where is this pipe located?
Is there any other common places for vacuum leaks?

Do you have any other ideas what might be the problem?

Best Regards,
Henrik

Edited by HenrikSWE, 09 June 2013 - 08:08 PM.


#2 compuwiz_uk

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:32 PM

the 2k revs hold when pressing the clutch while moving is normal, its the ECU holding the revs for a few moments to help aid smooth gear changes etc - also the revs dropping some when you apply the brakes is also normal as the brake servo gets its power assist from the vacuum pressure of the intake manifold so when you brake when the revs are up & the clutch is in you see the results of the brake servo pulling vacuum pressure from the intake ( effectively taking it away from the engine thus reducing the revs )

how long have you had the car, if not long & its always done it then 1st port of call would be to check the throttle body & make sure the idle rest stop screw thingy aint been messed with it should be covered in a load of goop, if so its not touched so move on, if you can easily see the screwhead then that could be the trouble, someone may have raised the idle for some reason before you owned it, undo the screw a few turns & the idle should drop a smidge but take car when driving it @ 1st as most folks that mess with that screw generally do so as the engine is prone to stalling when the clutch is pressed when the brakes are applied - like when pulling up at junctions or slowing & turning into a parking space etc.


if you have had it a while & you know the above is fine as the idle used to be lower & has risen on its own to the current levels then read on :D

put the dashboard into diagnostic mode & run through the selections till you find the engine temperature readout & then go for a drive.

i have a feeling it will stop rising somewhere around the 65-70 degree mark meaning your engine is never exiting the warmup mode due to the thermostat being stuck open ( common problem with these engines as they get older - the plastic clip holding the stat part inplace normally breaks off as the spring its holding back is stronger than the aged & weakened plastic its made from leaving the stat part floating loose in the engine & not keeping the coolant contained as it should etc.


these engines run hot, the needle does not begin to move till around the 45 degree mark, 60 ish degrees is then the NORMAL centre position, the engine carries on heating up till it reaches 94-104 degrees & does not exit the warm-up stages of adding extra fuel to the car ( increasing the revs ) till the 80-85 degree mark.

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#3 compuwiz_uk

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:36 PM

also a final thought, there has been a post on here recently with a dodgy idle ( like the PCV pipe problem but without the split pipe :} ) & the root cause turned out to be the throttle body itself as the butterfly valve inside the throttlbody was not properly sealing when fully closed & thus causing air to leak past & play hell with the idle

the member that had this trouble advised that if you remove the throttle body & look through it there should be NO seeing through the edges when closed for a good one, if you can see gaps at the edges then there is a problem with it :)

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#4 paul05149

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 08:35 PM

no cost option investigation is to run the dash diagnostics as mentioned above to check that your engine coolant thermostat is functioning as it should as it can cause all sorts of unseemingly connected problems.

http://www.fordwiki....Diagnostic_Mode

you can use this function when driving the car to check that the stat is behaving under all conditions.

See here for info http://www.talkford....e/#entry1998558

Cheers Paul M.(flapless) :driving:

#5 HenrikSWE

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 09:18 PM

Thanks for the answers :)

I took the car for a test drive today, with dash diagnostics on.

I don't think it's a thermostat issue, while driving on the highway at 110km/h at 5th gear it raises to 85 C.
When starting to drive slower 30-50km/h it raised to 97 C that was max I could get during this test drive during 20 min, 16 C outside. That seems okay I guess?

You said it's normal with 2k rpm while pressing down the clutch while driving, I guess it where around 1,5k rpm when driving slowly when it was working correctly. I have own the car for about 5 years, but I feel it acting strange with this high idle.

People are looking when it rev about 2.5k - 3.0k rpm driving on the parking lane.

My friend at work, don't think a vacuum leak could cause something like this, said it would get a lean petrol mixture then and running poorly rather than rough. He think it's might be the fuel injectors struggling. What's your's idea about that?
Can I rule out the fuel injectors and vacuum leaks somehow?

Sometimes when I press the clutch while driving slowly I can see it quick go down to like 800 rpm and quickly raise to 2.5k rpm. It revs more normally sometimes around 2.1k rpm, but now and then up to 3k rpm.
Could this be a IAC problem, can I rule out the IAC somehow?
A junky thottle body would that act like this, jumping from 800 to 2.5k. closing and opening that high.

Sometimes it feels like it revs a little bit higher/rougher while driving in low gears as well, like I don't have to push the gas pedal at all. But it could be me fooling myself, don't remember how it where acting when it where working normally.

Could a leak at the manifold fool the lambda sensor to cause problems like this?

No error codes, reading with an Elm327.

Will try to reset the ecu as well, and see if it turns out better.

What else to look for? Any Ideas?

Thanks a lot for any input!

Regards,
Henrik

Edited by HenrikSWE, 11 June 2013 - 09:38 PM.


#6 jonyboyjonweechocbanana

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:16 AM

:themrs: my 2007 focus ghia had the same problem when stopping at a junction the revs would rise to cut the story short every body looked at it but could not find the fault then a freind of a freind new a person who worked in fords main dealer ie servicing guy he took it in on a monday mates rates then found the problem on tuesday take away throttle body housing theres a breather pipe underneath it was split and perished ie sucking in air fault cured hope this makes sence cheers jb :banana: :banana: :banana: i was pulling my hair out trying to find it :tonofbricks:
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#7 paul05149

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 07:23 PM

your temps don't seem to be getting high enough for me, was the AC switched on as this runs the rad cooling fan constantly. your max of 97'C is a little on the low side as these engines should normally run in the 95-105'C range with the fan kicking in at 106'C and your 85'C when on the highway shows it is ONLY just out of the 'choke' ( extra fueling therefore extra revs) area of the temp range.

Needs further watching I feel.

Cheers Paul M. :driving:

#8 HenrikSWE

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 07:10 AM

Thank you, everyone for your inputs.

 

I removed the manifold yesterday with help from this guide - http://www.talkford....-flaps-removal/

A hell of work to get it off, think it will be a bit easier next time when you know the exact location of the bolts and how to best reach them.

But still a heck of a job I guess.

 

Found a split in the PCV breathing hose.

Think I have the revised version, 24mm outer diameter, 16mm inner diameter.

Was not able to get a new one before the holiday trip.

 

Put some rubber glue on, and wrap it with vulk tape. Then some aluminum tape and finally some duct tape.

Think it will hold for a while. 

 

Car is working perfect now, no high rev when idling.

 

I will keep a look at the engine temperatures while on holiday, to see if I might have a faulty thermostat as well.

 

Thanks for your help, 

 

Regards,

Henrik


Edited by HenrikSWE, 30 June 2013 - 07:20 AM.





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