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possible catch fireon and off
Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:44 PM
Posted 22 December 2013 - 01:12 PM
Cheltenham's Ford Specialist
Posted 22 December 2013 - 05:57 PM
Alternator over charging? That's what t came up as when checked but it turns out it was the battery as well. Battery boiling its self. Never in a long time came across this. So some were in theses mondeo there must be a protecton unit to stop frying the electrics.? Well new alternater and battery and now all is well suprised it did not distroy smart charge
Posted 23 December 2013 - 07:51 PM
Sounds like the regulator died causing over voltages.
Consider asking a mod to revise the title to something more suitable?
Check your CONVERS+ version www.talkford.com/topic/154824-convers-versions/
Check your SPECIFICATION on ETIS here http://www.etis.ford...5707F2.fcvas509
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09 2.2 Tit X Sport, Hypno Silver, options are keyless entry, privacy glass, 8 Way Powered Drivers Seat
Posted 23 December 2013 - 09:54 PM
Posted 26 December 2013 - 03:09 PM
it's obviously not so smart charge if it boiled your battery and baked your alternator.
- jonyboyjonweechocbanana likes this
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2000 (W) Mondeo Mk2 Ghia 2.0 Hatch in Stardust Silver
This is Ford country, listen quietly and you can hear Vauxhalls rusting
Ever noticed that putting "anal" in front of some ford model names makes them sound funny? Fiesta, Probe, Ranger. Explorer, Maverick etc... lol
Posted 26 December 2013 - 03:55 PM
Posted 01 January 2014 - 12:56 AM
Battery boiling its self. Never in a long time came across this. So some were in theses mondeo there must be a protecton unit to stop frying the electrics.? Well new alternater and battery and now all is well suprised it did not distroy smart charge
Well, you can boil the battery if one of the cells shorts out - now, this isn't entirely unlikely at the end of life of a battery, so it is a bit surprising that 'battery boiling' isn't a bit more common.
what happens is
- a battery cell shorts out and instead of 6 nominally 2 volt cells (nom 12 volt, 14.something on charge), you have five cells (nom 10 volts ~12 volts on charge)
- on full charge, you have 12 volts across the battery, and the alternator just sees this as a slightly flat battery, which needs full current to get back up to voltage
- full current, maintained for a long time produces heat (rather than translating into chemical energy)
- battery boils
- even 'fully sealed' batteries aren't; to avoid an explosion hazard, at a high overpressure, the protection valve will blow out and gas will be emitted
Note that a boiling battery emits sulphur dioxide, which is noxious, but without a distinctive smell, so that's not nice (you would notice a choking sensation, without an obvious cause in an enclosed space, although, as you are likely to be outdoors, the gas might disperse and this might not be noticeable) . It can also be rehydrated to form an acid, so that's not nice for for you car, either, possibly accelerating corrosion.
If you do this in an enclosed space, such as a garage, it is worse, of course.
All of this is within normal operating conditions for an alternator - the high current/low voltage aren't normally maintained for that long a time, but the instantaneous voltage/current are well within the limits for recharging a slightly down battery, so it is difficult to just say 'limit the current out of the alternator' because that will also limit the alternator's ability to recharge the battery, or cope with high loads.
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