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£150 Mistral - operation MoT


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#1 ffoy

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 06:17 PM

Hi folks. Just got this cheap from a friend. Looks tidy, but won't pass MoT  :( .

 

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So far I need to deal with:

 

  • engine management light permanently on

  • same with ABS light

  • rusted front brake pipes

  • horrendous noise from drivetrain (inner CV joint?)

  • broken OSF coil spring

 

I've ordered a new spring and wheel bearing plus 1 ABS sensor  :huh: and got a used driveshaft for £20 from a breaker yesterday.

 

Should get started on things on Saturday and hopefully get MoT'd soon



#2 ebrapup

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 10:34 PM

What sort of spec (if any) do you get on a Mistral?

I'd be tempted to strip it.

Edited by ebrapup, 27 May 2015 - 10:36 PM.

Mk3 TDdi Ghia X Est, medium steel blue
Mods done: Clear repeaters. Coloured bumper mouldings. Blue stitched gear lever gaitor and arm rest.

#3 Col_Tubbs

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 01:55 PM

It's based on the lx spec car

#4 ebrapup

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 02:06 PM

*
POPULAR

LX with pre facelift Zetec wheels and little boot spoiler.
  • ffoy likes this
Mk3 TDdi Ghia X Est, medium steel blue
Mods done: Clear repeaters. Coloured bumper mouldings. Blue stitched gear lever gaitor and arm rest.

#5 ffoy

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:40 PM

I'm not sure exactly what the Mistral spec is or where it fits in the range but the guys above seem to know their onions.

 

Anyway. Where are we with this....

 

iirc 2 Friday's ago (29th) I set about loosening off all the bolts to get into the driveshaft (as I was convinced the terrible noise was coming from there) but the first thing that struck me was the coil spring had snapped  :o

 

So I tentatively put things back together and ordered from Ebay a coil spring and wheel bearing and then the following Wednesday, having knocked-off work early, went round the local breakers to look for a driveshaft.

 

Surprisingly there weren't many Mondeos in the yards, and any that were - were diesels. Late into the afternoon we found one yard with a petrol Mk3. 

 

The car was predictably wedged-in between other cars and the OSF wasn't accessible, but the NSF was.

 

I know the left and right driveshafts are different lengths but (having had a similar problem with my old Suzuki Swift years ago) know that the bit which fails, on the inner joint, is the spider/tripod and I could therefore just use the inner joint off it or even just the spider.

 

Also someone else had been in and removed the strut before me so all I had to do was pop out the driveshaft.

 

This took much longer than I expected as the car was flat on the ground and it took a long time and many broken tyre-changing-jacks to get the thing up high enough to get any leverage behind it.

 

It was good practise for removing my own ones later I guess. The guy charged me £20 which seemed fair enough but I heard later you can get reconditioned ones for just over £30  :rolleyes:

 

My wheel bearing arrived on Thursday but I wasn't in and this happened again on the Friday.

 

On Saturday I fitted the coil spring. I've done this before on other cars without much trouble. The broken spring came off without much trouble but fitting the new one proved more difficult. Basically two compressors weren't enough as the spring need to be compressed down until the coils are touching almost before the top mount could be fitted on.

 

With the two compressors I had on tightened to the max the spring was still too long. You can't remove then to start again on another coil so it was a case of - cycle to Halfords and buy another set at £30!

 

I was also rather pleased that the extremely rusty OSF brake pipe unscrewed from the hose with little drama. A sharp action on the mole-grips gave a pleasing cracking sound. Hopefully the others would yield as easily.

 

I was also amazed that the screw for the ABS sensor came out too. So I replaced the sensor and drove home feeling safer with the new spring but still that noise and unsurprisingly ABS light still on. 

 

Whilst I was working on the driver's side I felt for play in the driveshaft inner joint and there was none. My co-pilot said he could feel the rumbling on his side of car so maybe I was in luck getting the NSF driveshaft after all. That was a job for another day as the coil spring took me most of the day.

 

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front spring has snapped at some point

 

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looks pretty dangerous

 

 

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sticker on shock gives a lot of data 

 

 

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new spring

 

 

 

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unusual 18mm nut on strut-top. I have no 18mm ring spanner

 

 

 

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old broken spring compressed fine with 2 clamps

 

 

 

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lift off the spring and various parts

 

 

 

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now we need to make the new one this short

 

 

 

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which required more clamps


Edited by ffoy, 05 June 2015 - 11:56 PM.


#6 ffoy

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:55 PM

Oh. Forgot the brakes pipes....

 

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rusty OSF brake pipe unscrewed fine

 

 

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trace it back along here 

 

 

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and find convenient joining point before ABS/master cylinder etc



#7 ffoy

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 12:20 AM

so with the OSF spring replaced and no obvious source for the noise I was getting whilst driving I turned to the NSF for a look. This was on Monday and the rain was pretty bad. I got the strut off just before thunder and lightning started and could then move inside to take the bearing out as it was clear this was worn when I spun the hub but there was no obvious play in it when the wheel etc were still on.

 

 

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driveshaft nut comes undone quite easily with a heavy duty breaker bar. this is a 3/3" drive type and pretty long. well worth the investment as they aren't expensive 

 

 

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this is a good point for an axle stand once car is up in the air 

 

 

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caliper mounting bolts have 15mm head but can be rather tight and even a six-sided socket might slip

 

 

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I found forcing a 14mm socket on gave a better grip

 

 

 

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balljoint pinch-bolt nut is an unusual 18mm size as with shock-absorber nut

 

 

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quite a lot of leverage is required to pull arm/balljoint down from strut. G-clamp on arm (with some packing) gives something to lever down upon

 

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but I cracked both of mine and substituted it with a ratchet strap which worked fine

 

 

I intended to remove the hub/bearing with my press but resorted to good old fashioned hammering and grinding because it was easier: The hub could be pressed out of the bearing inner races but you'd need to find/engineer some thin supports to go between the flange (bit that road-wheel attaches to) and the strut/knuckle whilst pressing down on the thin/tube end of the hub. If you hit it firmly with a large hammer the hub flies out taking the outboard inner rice with it and ball bearing over the floor. You than need to remove the race from the hub and this could be done with a puller or again with some sort of supports behind the race and pressure on the hub to push it down through the race.

 

I opted to slice it with a thin disc on the angle grinder then crack it with a hammer once it was weakened. Not pretty but works fine if you are careful not to gouge the hub tube.

 

The inboard-inner race of the bearing and the outer race will still be in the strut at this point and the inner can be popped out by hand. All that's then left to do is remove the outer. You'd need a really large drift/block to push down on it as it is quite wide. 

 

I found a thick piece of steel and cut it to roughly the diameter of the bearing then ground the corners off and thumped the race out with a large hammer.  

 

Bit disappointed that I had to resort to force when I have the press but at least I'll be able to use it to press in the new one quickly and cleanly hopefully.

 

 

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when hub is hammered out of strut/wheel-bearing the outboard inner-race will be stuck on it. it can be drawn off or cut off

 

 

DSC08918_zpslkyjlyfp.jpg

bar-of-soap-shaped device made up to push/hammer outer bearing race from the strut/knuckle 



#8 ffoy

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 12:27 AM

So, Monday the bearing was out and I just needed to get the bearing that was 'failed delivery' the previous Thursday/Friday.

 

Well. I finished work early on Wednesday and couldn't find anyone to give me a lift to the depot which is about 10/15 miles away so I decided to get a bus down. Just before I jumped on I phoned the parcel company to let them know I was coming and they advised me the bearing was returned to sender - that morning  :darn:

 

So on Friday I got one from a local motor factors for £33. The original was only £12 (fre P&P) so that failed delivery has cost me quite a bit. 

 

 

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new bearing - £33

 

 

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not sure if these markings can be used to identify bearing size/type as is normally the case 

 

 

DSC08958_zps8z0qvwu3.jpg


Edited by ffoy, 08 June 2015 - 12:50 AM.


#9 ffoy

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 12:52 AM

So. That's me got a new bearing but let's have a look at the old one

 

 

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old bearing parts re-assembled. this is outboard face (ie side nearest road-wheel) 

 

 

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and this is inboard face with rubber seal

 

 

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when hub is drifted out it takes outboard inner-race with it and you inevitably lose some of the ball bearings

 

 

 

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which sit inside this plastic cage on the outer race

 

 

 

 

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which lifts off to reveal same set-up on the other side

 

 

 

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if you flip it over these lift out also

 

 

 

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bearing races were in fine condition on outboard side

 

 

 

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but very bad on inboard side - outer race....

 

 

 

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....and inner

 

 

 

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you can actually see that the (complete) set of balls from the inboard side are rusty and discoloured in comparison to the (incomplete) set of balls from the outboard side



#10 ffoy

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 12:54 AM

And one last observation

 

DSC08961_zpsrmknoglu.jpg

inboard plastic cage has fuller teeth on it. not sure if outboard one was same and damaged when hub drifted out or if it is supposed to be like this 






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