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Amps to jump start a 2L TDCI Mondeo


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7 replies to this topic

#1 gimmeaboost

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 03:55 PM

Hi,

Could somebody please advise me if the following would be appropriate to jump start a 2L TDCI Mondeo (09)

 

https://www.amazon.c...&qid=1488988280

 

Also, what is the minimum amperage required to jump start my model of car?

 

I do have issues with battery drain, as I can see other folks here do too. I recently had to have it jump started after leaving it for 2 weeks in an airport car park, so I would like to have a portable kit just in case.

 

Any help would be much appreciated.



#2 Master-of-none

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 12:14 PM

The advert says it's not suitable for a diesel (diesels have higher compression than petrol so need more power)  Probably need something a bit more bulky such as this one from Halfords (other makers/suppliers etc, exist)

The important thing is to regularly recharge the thing (as I found, mine was dead because I had forgotten it for a year or so).

 

You may want to consider checking for faults causing a power drain, poor charging or even replacing the battery rather than accepting that it won't last 2 weeks.


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#3 mike4369

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 12:47 PM

When jump starting any car it's advisable to connect the leads( Battery terminals of donor car to battery positive and an earthing point on car to be started) and allow at least 10 minutes to put some power into dead battery before starting the car. That way it does not mean drawing an excessive current through the jump leads. So any reasonable sized leads will suffice. The gadget you want should do the job and the same procedure applies let it put some power in for a while before trying to start the car. Flat battery syndrome is well documented on the forum especially on MK4's with lots of theories as to what causes it. I'd advise getting your battery tested to see if it will hold a charge - a car left standing will only drain milliamps anything more and you should find out why.

Personally I can't see how such a small tool can hold the amount of power it claims to have.


Edited by mike4369, 09 March 2017 - 12:50 PM.


#4 PURPLE_2L_LX

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 11:48 PM

I have a Clarke unit from Machine Mart. Not the cheapest but the batteries are worth the

extra money.

 

Mate has bought several cheaper units in the time i have had mine, But its over 10 years old

now so probably due for a new battery or new unit.

 

Your better off sorting the battery drain though. Alternator faulty or a weak battery?

 

Is the battery saver relay kicking in?

 

Did they ever fully solve the battery drain issues on the MK4 cars?


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MK3 FUSE INFO CLICK HERE ... FORD WIKI CLICK HERE .... FORD ETIS CLICK HERE

Adding your location may find someone local who could offer assistance.

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#5 mike4369

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 02:40 PM

"Did they ever fully solve the battery drain issues on the MK4 cars?"

The topic seems to have faded- no definite fixes were submitted just loads of possible causes mixed with theories. Maybe Ford fixed the problem without publishing a cause??



#6 gimmeaboost

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 10:59 PM

When jump starting any car it's advisable to connect the leads( Battery terminals of donor car to battery positive and an earthing point on car to be started) and allow at least 10 minutes to put some power into dead battery before starting the car. That way it does not mean drawing an excessive current through the jump leads.

 

Thanks. If I understand correctly, I don't need to disconnect the battery, I just need to connect to the positive and the earthing point, leave it for 10 minutes, disconnect the device and then start the car.

 

I'm tempted to run the battery flat, and then try this. I ordered the device, then tried to cancel it, but it had already been dispatched, so I might as well give it a go. :)

 

I do have a trickle charger, so if it doesn't start I do have the means of recharging it, and I was planning on doing a full discharge and running the recon mode on the charger anyway.



#7 PURPLE_2L_LX

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 12:56 AM

No you leave the starter connected until after the car starts.

 

A few issues with the lithium packs, they need to be charged carefully at set voltages

and currents. I wonder how long they will last when the car starts and sticks out

over 14 volts onto the 11.1v pack and upwards of 60 amps.

 

Would you want to leave one in a hot or cold car?

 

Car batteries are designed for  high current outputs for a short duration then to be

fully charged as you drive. If the battery is less than 100% for any length of time the

the plates sulphate which coats them and reduces the capacity. Continue to allow

the battery to stay in a less than fully charged state will ruin it.

 

Spend the money on a decent battery to start with and a decent charger afterwards

and keep it topped up.

I think you said initially it would hold its charge for weeks?  If your not doing longer

journeys to charge it then use an external charger. Dont let the charge drop.

 

PS..   The quoted max power on those devices are often miles off the mark, 300Amps

peak power maybe for a tiny fraction of a second. What is the continuous cold cranking amps?

 

I was contemplating a couple myself but some yourtube testers put me off, ove claimed 800amps when struggled to put out over 200amps. Several expanded and broke their own cases under load. They are a fire hazard when that happens.


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MK3 FUSE INFO CLICK HERE ... FORD WIKI CLICK HERE .... FORD ETIS CLICK HERE

Adding your location may find someone local who could offer assistance.

F-Super, Bluetooth OBDII (ELM) and a MS509 scanners (test subjects required).

ForDiag now available to victims.


#8 mike4369

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 10:19 AM

Spend the money on a decent battery to start with and a decent charger afterwards

and keep it topped up.

Best advice!!






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