Jump to content






Photo

2.0 TDCi Turbo Vane Actuator Fault (P132A)


  • Please log in to reply
70 replies to this topic

#1 trink

trink

    Little Megger

  • Members
  • 34 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 26 October 2008 - 07:43 PM

Hi. It seems there are a lot of people with similar problems to me and I’m trying to collate everyone’s knowledge into a workable solution.

My car - 2004 2.0 TDCi 109k miles

History

Driving at 70mph on dual carriageway came to slight hill and applied extra power. Suddenly the power dropped right off and the glow plug warning light started to flash. (lots of people have this problem). After pulling over, upon restarting, the glow plug light goes on when the engine has been idling for 2-3minutes or you take the revs up to 1500-2000rpm. I conservatively drove the remaining 40 odd miles home in limp mode with the glow plug light still flashing.

Garage confirmed I have a P132A fault code. Garage said it’s a problem with the actuator for the turbo and the actuator isn’t available separately and each actuator only works with a specific turbo, so I got a quote for £1275 for a new turbo and fitting. The mechanic said he had another mondeo in for the same turbo fault 2 months ago.

When the fault codes were reset in the garage, the engine runs with no glow plug light and the actuator arm in the forward position. Then there is a period of the arm flickering before switching all the way to the aft position which coincides with the glow plug light coming on and the fault code showing again.

I'm reading alot into the Variable Nozzle Turbines (VNT) or (Variable geometry turbochargers (VGTs) and the electronic actuator and am searching for a solution which doesn't involve £700+ for new turbo.

Links to how VGT’s work…
http://www.autozine....ngine_3.htm#VTG
http://paultan.org/a...-geometry-work/

I have the Haynes manual for the car and it states under the turbo section;

'On models with an electronic vane actuator, the actuator and its bracket can be unbolted and removed from the turbocharger, but Ford state that the actuator must not be separated from it's bracket.'

It seems to me that placing any electronics near to a turbo is not going to end well. I would like to open up the actuator and get the guys from work (electronic engineers) to have a look to see if the electronics are damaged.

Does anyone know why ford state not to remove the actuator from its bracket?

Another cause may be the sticking variable vanes.
There is some related information about sticking vanes posted here -
http://www.fordmonde...id/787922/tp/1/
http://www.fordmonde...php?tid/788353/

If the actuator arm is disrupted by the sticking vanes, the ECU may flag up a fault in the actuator as a consequence. Any thoughts would be welcome?

On a slightly foreign note, there is a german guy who may have a solution, but i think it could be a scam to get you to send your turbo to germany:
http://translate.goo...&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

There are a few other forum threads on this matter if it helps…
http://www.fordmonde...php?tid/788647/
http://www.honestjoh...dex.htm?t=60078
http://www.honestjoh...dex.htm?t=63363


Any comments are greatly appreciated...

Trink



#2 graemewelch

graemewelch

    MEG Captain

  • Members
  • 5,282 posts
  • 1 thanks

Posted 26 October 2008 - 08:08 PM

my advise would be to split the turbo and give it a good clean. theyll be loads of coke on the vains and this could be causing the actuator to become sticky as the vains will be stiff.

#3 winterheating

winterheating

    MEG Corporal

  • Members
  • 637 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 26 October 2008 - 09:42 PM

if the actuator is moving with vacumn then thats ok. it sounds like the solonoid at fault check the wires to it. when at idle the actuator should be applied via the turbo actuator solonoid.

check vacumn is applied to actuator all the time when idle.

but it wont cost anything to take turbo off and clean it like graeme says.

#4 trink

trink

    Little Megger

  • Members
  • 34 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 09:58 AM

Thanks. How do I check the vacuum is applied at idle. I.e. where is it connected on the unit, how do i get to it etc. Thanks for you help.

#5 trink

trink

    Little Megger

  • Members
  • 34 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 10:04 AM

Hi Greame, thanks for your reply. I am thinking of removing and cleaning my turbo this weekend. When you stripped yours down, did you need any special tools or new sets of gaskets or bolts? If so, where is the best place to get them? I just wanna make sure i have everything before the weekend while the shops are open.

#6 winterheating

winterheating

    MEG Corporal

  • Members
  • 637 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 07:28 PM

when idle remove the vacumn pipe to actuator if the actuator doesn't spring back when you do this check the end of the pipe for suction. if its sucking the actuator is faulty if it isn't the pipe is split kinked, solonoid not working or connected,

#7 trink

trink

    Little Megger

  • Members
  • 34 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 07:31 PM

Hi. Thanks for your help. However, I have an electronic actuator, not a vacuum actuator so there is no vacuum pipe connected to the actuator, just a rotary soleniod which is controlled by a black box.

#8 winterheating

winterheating

    MEG Corporal

  • Members
  • 637 posts
  • 0 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 07:47 PM

oh dear. suppose the next thing to check is the map sensor then!

btw i have a 04 115 tdci electronic turbo for sale, it is used and is on an a car that i have just got for breaking, there is full service history and of the top of me head the turbo unit was replaced at 70k the cars got 90k on it.

#9 graemewelch

graemewelch

    MEG Captain

  • Members
  • 5,282 posts
  • 1 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 08:17 PM

oh dear. suppose the next thing to check is the map sensor then!

btw i have a 04 115 tdci electronic turbo for sale, it is used and is on an a car that i have just got for breaking, there is full service history and of the top of me head the turbo unit was replaced at 70k the cars got 90k on it.


are you busting the full engine? what parts are left


#10 graemewelch

graemewelch

    MEG Captain

  • Members
  • 5,282 posts
  • 1 thanks

Posted 27 October 2008 - 08:19 PM

[quote name=trink]Hi Greame, thanks for your reply. I am thinking of removing and cleaning my turbo this weekend. When you stripped yours down, did you need any special tools or new sets of gaskets or bolts? If so, where is the best place to get them? I just wanna make sure i have everything before the weekend while the shops are open.



no gaskets are needed, just a 13mm spanner to open the turbo. give me a shout if run into any trouble. wear bouts you live






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users