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how to change the drivers side door lock


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#1 dojj

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:06 PM

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right then, door lock changing over
i had to do mine as the lock was broken, so off to ebay to get a replacement and hope it works
this is what turned up, complete doorlock assembly, it also had the interor handle and cable with it, good for spares
Posted Image
and so, i equiped myself with a selection of screwdrivers and torx bits, plus a rather usefull pointy thing with a bent point to help prise off any plastic covers that needed prising off
so, to start with, it was off with the door handle on the exisiting car, starting with undoing this torx screw, hidden under a plastic cover
Posted Image
you have to unscrew it a little to loosen the tab inside the small plate of the door handle, pull the door handle as if opening the door and pris the smaller big out, then pull the handle to the rear of the car to release it
Posted Image
this is what you will be left with
Posted Image
now onto the inside
the screws you need to undo to remove the door card
Posted Image
door card removed, you can see the insides
Posted Image
thi is some of the stuff you'll now have in a pile
Posted Image
carefully pull the cover off, i use a very sharp knife to cut through the mastic as it comes apart, just make sure you don't get it on your clothes, it don't come off, and try not to tear the membrane, it won't go back together again
Posted Image
see this screw that's not there anymore?
Posted Image
it holds this in place, if you don't remove the screw you can't get it out, and the internals won't come out without damaging the door, remember to replace the screw when you put it together again as it aligns stuff
Posted Image
http://i102.photobuc...06122009257.jpg
out come the screws for the door lock
http://i102.photobuc...06122009258.jpg
now you can simply slide the complete mechanism out towards the front of the door, careful of the window runner, you can't see the plug for the motor of the cable for the inner handle, but these are fairly easy to unplug, remove, just don't bend the inner handle cable so that it kinks, or you will need a new one
http://i102.photobuc...06122009260.jpg

it's at this point that you can simply replace old for new, but then you'd be stuck with a key n the door that you couldn'#t use, so read onfor more enlightenment

once the door handle mechanism is out and in the open, yuo'll see the operating rods
http://i102.photobuc...06122009261.jpg
you need to undo these 3 screws first of all
http://i102.photobuc...06122009262.jpg
i changed the rod cover as well as the new one was broken, you may not need to but it's always worth pointing these thigns out, just don't get them mixed up as ther are stickers othe parts which relate to what they are and possibly key numbers as well
http://i102.photobuc...06122009263.jpg
this top screw won't be tight, for reasons explained later on
http://i102.photobuc...06122009264.jpg
you need to "wiggle" the upper part to get it out, it takes a bit of thinking, but not too difficult once you figure out how to manouver it and press the pin on the tab to get it out
http://i102.photobuc...06122009265.jpg
this clip is a bit of a pain in the rear end
http://i102.photobuc...06122009267.jpg
unclip it at the bottom first
http://i102.photobuc...06122009268.jpg
then the top
http://i102.photobuc...06122009270.jpg
note that it goes around the rod and actuator
http://i102.photobuc...06122009271.jpg
now you can get to the easy bit
http://i102.photobuc...06122009272.jpg
just twist the rod to unclip it
http://i102.photobuc...06122009274.jpg
and it's all apart
http://i102.photobuc...06122009275.jpg
remember that screw i was on about earlier? the one that you can tighten up but is still loose?
http://i102.photobuc...06122009276.jpg
like this?
http://i102.photobuc...06122009278.jpg
the other screw with the same head looks like this, with thread all the way up the shaft, not stopping a bit of the way before the top
http://i102.photobuc...06122009279.jpg
you need to do this to give you enough mvement in the mechanism to put it back again and tighten the parts up slowly, you need to do the top part first, the one with the plastic lug to hold it in place before you reattach the 3 screws for the door lock

just make sure it's working ebfore you reassemble everything

all in all, with the rain, interuption by fire engines across the road, being helped by a 3 year old and taking the pics, it was done in an hour
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mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
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most of the chrome bits done (still looking for fog light surrounds)

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#2 compuwiz_uk

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Posted 09 December 2009 - 08:08 PM

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just to add that if your replacement unit arrives intact & in need of no additional parts swapping out too then the lock barrel can just be unclipped from the old unit & the new unit & swapped out with minimal dismantling :L

it just needs a small clip carefully prising to release teh lock barrel from the rest of the unit.

the clip can be found to the rear of the lock barrel in the approx area of the spring near the top of this piccy

Posted Image

you should add this info to the WIKI as there is a fair few folks that enquire about changing the lock unit ( generally around this time of year as thats when they go wrong the most as they dont like the cold weather :} ) & my ramblings i keep directing em to is not as easy to follow as that :L
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Too many mods to list in here but they can be seen here


Most Common MK3 Question / Problems have solutions listed in the WIKI - Click Here
 
Ford Etis Vehicle Information - Click Here


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#3 52graphite

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Posted 09 December 2009 - 08:23 PM

Seconded. Wiki it. :L
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#4 dojj

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Posted 10 December 2009 - 03:39 PM

ok, i'll wiki it yes, but someone will have to point me to the wiki "how to wiki stuff" link first :}
mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done (still looking for fog light surrounds)

#5 52graphite

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 07:15 AM

As a quick follow-up, I've just had to use this article. My driver's door lock motor failed, leaving me in the terrible situation of having to use the key to lock the car and unlock that door!

The Haynes manual pictures aren't really good enough to figure out the intricacies, but dojj's pics do a fine job of explaining what's actually a pretty easy task.

I removed the latch and motor unit from the handle and its bracket and used my MEng qualifications to full effect, by spraying WD-40 into it and bashing it on the concrete floor of the garage a few times - and it works again now.

Re-assembly was fiddlier than taking it apart. Mistakes I made:

  • Clipping the handle cable into the wrong clamp - it should go in the upper one for the driver's door.
  • Detaching the plastic latch surround without noticing
  • Failing to position the handle innards correctly before tightening up the screw that holds the white alignment peg in - make sure the lock barrel is protruding properly from the hole in the door outer panel.

That's a few quid saved, at least until it packs up permanently.
my name is Mark.
2004 C-MAX Ghia 1.6 TDCi || 2006 Mercedes-Benz E220 CDI Avantgarde Estate
Gone but not forgotten: 2002 Mk3 1.8 Graphite in Magnum Grey on LPG ¦ Garage entry
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#6 Paul G

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Posted 29 October 2010 - 01:55 PM

If I've got a boot release problem... is this the bit I need to replace?
[color:red]ST[/color][color:black]220 in Panther Black
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Alloys that need a refurb...[/color]

#7 RedCarsAnonymous

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 11:15 AM

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but I wanted to thank dojj, and also add a note of my own...

I had a bit of trouble with reassembly, specifically getting the outside door handle & plastic lock surround fixed down - tightening it up just levered the parts out at the middle, meaning if anyone so much as farted in it's general direction it would all fall out ... It turns out front to back aligment is important, so if you look at the photo (tenth one down) under the phrase "see this screw that's not there anymore?", the sticky out plastic bit (door handle hinge?) to the left of the photo makes a good place to pull the mechanism rearwards while you tighten up the screw that's arrowed in pic #2.


& Paul G - I trust you found the answer elsewhere, but yes - my boot release now works off the console button & boot switch :)





I'm off to do the NSR lock now :)
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#8 52graphite

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 07:53 AM

That's a few quid saved, at least until it packs up permanently.


It packed up permanently, needing three or four presses to lethargically operate the latch. Got a replacement from eBay for £20 +£4 postage (instead of the £115 that the stealer wanted for a new one), found it was from a car 18 months older than mine :rolleyes: and fitted it with this guide available in case I needed to refer back to it.

I transferred the white motor onto my existing part, as the "new" (older) handle inner didn't have some of the wind noise fix foam on it that my old (newer) part had - the dojj method, rather than the compuwiz method. It's only necessary to undo two screws to get it off - the "brass" Torx at the bottom and the little black Torx at the top of the white part. Unclip the rod retaining clip and pull out the bottom rod, then turn the motor unit round to allow the "bayonet" fitting of the other rod to release.

Works like a dream now, hopefully for long enough to justify the saving over a brand-new part.

dojj - thanks for this article.
my name is Mark.
2004 C-MAX Ghia 1.6 TDCi || 2006 Mercedes-Benz E220 CDI Avantgarde Estate
Gone but not forgotten: 2002 Mk3 1.8 Graphite in Magnum Grey on LPG ¦ Garage entry
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#9 dojj

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 09:45 PM

no worries :)

just don't ask me to do a "how to change the fuel pump" wiki lol!!!!
mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done (still looking for fog light surrounds)

#10 Fred22

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 09:18 PM

gotta say i will be doing this soon so hopefully it wont be too bad, nice write up buddy, sorry to bring this back up, but will be a good little reference when i change my drivers side door and need the steal my lock onto the new door :L
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