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As it seems a lot of people wish to convert their 24v's to manual transmission I’m getting a lot of pm's asking various question about different aspects
As those who have pm'd me will know I have not kept the info to myself! However since this seems to be the new thing to do atm I though I better give a rundown of parts, my own personal setup and the wiring modifications I performed.
Firstly though let me say that this is just based on my findings and I DO NOT guarantee the susses I had
Mechanical Parts needed
Non Scorpio
V6 MT75 gearbox bell housing obtained from either a Granada or sierra 4x4
2.9 v6 flywheel again from above vehicles
Starter motor again from above vehicles is preferable for 'bolt on' application
Pedal box and bearing arm if going for a cable clutch
Clutch unit (mine is escort cosworth however I feel this is not up to the job and should be replaced with a 2.9 unit)
Scorpio Related
A 2WD MT75 gearbox preferably a TD or late 2.3
Prop shaft again preferably from a TD
Pedal box and all hydraulic equipment Inc brake fluid reservoir from a manual Scorpio (for hydraulic clutch setup - this is my setup) NOTE! the bracket on the brake vacumme has to be flipped 180 degrees to get the correct off set for the pedals, i have taken some pics which will be given on request!
If using the hydraulic clutch option, your v6 bell housing will need 3 blobs of alloy weld added around the main input shaft nut so that the hydraulic thrust bearing can be bolted to the casting; also the main nut from the 2wd box must be used as this centres the bearing!
I’m not going to tell you how to bolt the bits and pieces together as 1. It’s fairly obvious once you have all the bits and 2. I’m assuming that considering your even reading this you have some mechanical skills.
Ive used the cars Standard wiring loom (the BOB one), Others will say that its just easier to swap it all the the earlier BOA one but thats the easy option
Now for the hardest bit, the wiring, as I was doing a straight swap auto to manual I had the auto box to take apart and pinch some parts out of for measurement and in the case of the EPC solenoid wiring back into the system
On the auto box range selector switch you will have a row of 4 wires in a line and a row with 2 in the middle
The row with 4 wires, the outer 2 are the start inhibit, just chop and join these two together, the middle 2 wires are the reverse switch connection
The row with 2 wires is the engine control, my wire colours were Brown/yellow and white/black, this needs a resistance of 737R between it (simulating the neutral position in the range switch)
So
Start - 0
Rev - 0 - 0 - eng
Rev - 0 - 0 - eng --- range selector plug
Start - 0
Now you have to sort the solenoid plug which is the square shaped one
This one is a little tricky but if you hold the plug so that the catch part is on the right pin one is bottom right and pin 16 top left
Pin 16
V
0 0 0 0 pin 4
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 catch side
0 0 0 0 pin 1
^
pin 13
Right then
EPC (use the solenoid out the box or a power relay) uses pins 11 and 12
Temp pins 4 and 8 - use a resistor can’t remember the value of hand but I think it was around 4 K ohms
Lock up pins 1 and 5 again use a resistor 8.7 Ohm
Then the shift sols
Pins 7 , 9 , 14, 16 are the one side of the relays (use the Yellow ones out the fuse box) and pin 10 is the common
That the main lot sorted
there’s a little bit to do around the selector switch, just link the buzzer out for the not in park buzzer, leave the O/D switch open, and then I pulled the wiring out for the winter mode but left the eco and sport switch in as these may have an effect on the fuelling but no one really knows lol
I made up a little resistor board for the resistor related parts, for a small fee i could make up another but will only be made on weekends
Right I think that just about covers it, however if you have any question please feel free to PM me
My car has now done over 1500 miles since this was carried out and ive had no problems other then a wiring clip braking and allowing the loom to droop next to the exhaust, so im very pleased
Matt
As those who have pm'd me will know I have not kept the info to myself! However since this seems to be the new thing to do atm I though I better give a rundown of parts, my own personal setup and the wiring modifications I performed.
Firstly though let me say that this is just based on my findings and I DO NOT guarantee the susses I had
Mechanical Parts needed
Non Scorpio
V6 MT75 gearbox bell housing obtained from either a Granada or sierra 4x4
2.9 v6 flywheel again from above vehicles
Starter motor again from above vehicles is preferable for 'bolt on' application
Pedal box and bearing arm if going for a cable clutch
Clutch unit (mine is escort cosworth however I feel this is not up to the job and should be replaced with a 2.9 unit)
Scorpio Related
A 2WD MT75 gearbox preferably a TD or late 2.3
Prop shaft again preferably from a TD
Pedal box and all hydraulic equipment Inc brake fluid reservoir from a manual Scorpio (for hydraulic clutch setup - this is my setup) NOTE! the bracket on the brake vacumme has to be flipped 180 degrees to get the correct off set for the pedals, i have taken some pics which will be given on request!
If using the hydraulic clutch option, your v6 bell housing will need 3 blobs of alloy weld added around the main input shaft nut so that the hydraulic thrust bearing can be bolted to the casting; also the main nut from the 2wd box must be used as this centres the bearing!
I’m not going to tell you how to bolt the bits and pieces together as 1. It’s fairly obvious once you have all the bits and 2. I’m assuming that considering your even reading this you have some mechanical skills.
Ive used the cars Standard wiring loom (the BOB one), Others will say that its just easier to swap it all the the earlier BOA one but thats the easy option
Now for the hardest bit, the wiring, as I was doing a straight swap auto to manual I had the auto box to take apart and pinch some parts out of for measurement and in the case of the EPC solenoid wiring back into the system
On the auto box range selector switch you will have a row of 4 wires in a line and a row with 2 in the middle
The row with 4 wires, the outer 2 are the start inhibit, just chop and join these two together, the middle 2 wires are the reverse switch connection
The row with 2 wires is the engine control, my wire colours were Brown/yellow and white/black, this needs a resistance of 737R between it (simulating the neutral position in the range switch)
So
Start - 0
Rev - 0 - 0 - eng
Rev - 0 - 0 - eng --- range selector plug
Start - 0
Now you have to sort the solenoid plug which is the square shaped one
This one is a little tricky but if you hold the plug so that the catch part is on the right pin one is bottom right and pin 16 top left
Pin 16
V
0 0 0 0 pin 4
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 catch side
0 0 0 0 pin 1
^
pin 13
Right then
EPC (use the solenoid out the box or a power relay) uses pins 11 and 12
Temp pins 4 and 8 - use a resistor can’t remember the value of hand but I think it was around 4 K ohms
Lock up pins 1 and 5 again use a resistor 8.7 Ohm
Then the shift sols
Pins 7 , 9 , 14, 16 are the one side of the relays (use the Yellow ones out the fuse box) and pin 10 is the common
That the main lot sorted
there’s a little bit to do around the selector switch, just link the buzzer out for the not in park buzzer, leave the O/D switch open, and then I pulled the wiring out for the winter mode but left the eco and sport switch in as these may have an effect on the fuelling but no one really knows lol
I made up a little resistor board for the resistor related parts, for a small fee i could make up another but will only be made on weekends
Right I think that just about covers it, however if you have any question please feel free to PM me
My car has now done over 1500 miles since this was carried out and ive had no problems other then a wiring clip braking and allowing the loom to droop next to the exhaust, so im very pleased
Matt
