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boot micro-switch
Started by
pcs333
, May 04 2011 04:44 PM
22 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 May 2011 - 04:44 PM
Hi guys
I have bought a different micro-switch for my boot lock because I am only able to open it with the remote.
I plugged it in before taking the old one off. Good job I did because I get nothing, no lock noise when I push the switch, so I guess this one is not working as well.
Am I missing something here, do I need to do something else to get it to work?
If my original switch isn't the problem, any ideas what else it could be, because like I said it works fine with the remote.
cheers
edit:
Is there anyway I can check my switch before buying another one again?
#2
Posted 04 May 2011 - 05:32 PM
Is the interior button working? Any other locking issues?
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
2004 TDCi 130 LX Estate. (6)
MK3 FUSE INFO CLICK HERE ......... FORD WIKI CLICK HERE ........... FORD ETIS CLICK HERE
Adding your location may find someone local who could offer assistance.
F-Super, Bluetooth OBDII (ELM) and a MS509 scanners (test subjects required).
#3
Posted 04 May 2011 - 09:19 PM
PURPLE_2L_LX, on 04 May 2011 - 05:32 PM, said:
Is the interior button working? Any other locking issues?
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
Cheers thats pretty much confirmed what I was thinking.
The interior switch doesn't work either but I have no other issues with my locks at all, so that would suggest this one is faulty as well then.
Any ideas on how I can test it before I take it back?
#4
Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:54 AM
Use a multimeter
Resistance shows when switch works
DC volts for the circuit.
Connect meter to the Blue/black wire of the boot switch and to earth.
Should be only around 2V (not 12v). If 0V, unplug the dash switch and try again.
If still 0V then the wire is being earthed somewhere, look for damage to the loom in the boot area, it's a matter of finding it!
Resistance shows when switch works
DC volts for the circuit.
Connect meter to the Blue/black wire of the boot switch and to earth.
Should be only around 2V (not 12v). If 0V, unplug the dash switch and try again.
If still 0V then the wire is being earthed somewhere, look for damage to the loom in the boot area, it's a matter of finding it!
Weaselling out of things is important to learn,it's what separates us from the animals Except the weasel
#5
Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:56 AM
Discconnect the boot switch, Does the interior button start to work?
2004 TDCi 130 LX Estate. (6)
MK3 FUSE INFO CLICK HERE ......... FORD WIKI CLICK HERE ........... FORD ETIS CLICK HERE
Adding your location may find someone local who could offer assistance.
F-Super, Bluetooth OBDII (ELM) and a MS509 scanners (test subjects required).
#6
Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:57 PM
Thanks guys for the tips and info. Much appreciated
I will test with my multimeter tomorrow and also try the boot switch. I know it doesn`t work when the switch is plugged in.
Let you know how it goes.
I will test with my multimeter tomorrow and also try the boot switch. I know it doesn`t work when the switch is plugged in.
Let you know how it goes.
#7
Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:49 PM
Master-of-none, on 05 May 2011 - 09:54 AM, said:
Use a multimeter
Resistance shows when switch works
DC volts for the circuit.
Connect meter to the Blue/black wire of the boot switch and to earth.
Should be only around 2V (not 12v). If 0V, unplug the dash switch and try again.
If still 0V then the wire is being earthed somewhere, look for damage to the loom in the boot area, it's a matter of finding it!
Resistance shows when switch works
DC volts for the circuit.
Connect meter to the Blue/black wire of the boot switch and to earth.
Should be only around 2V (not 12v). If 0V, unplug the dash switch and try again.
If still 0V then the wire is being earthed somewhere, look for damage to the loom in the boot area, it's a matter of finding it!
Thanks for the info.
I have tested as described and I am getting 0.15V from the blue/black wire, but it goes upto 0.7v for about 30secs after using the remote to activate the boot lock and then back down to 0.15v.
On the switched side of the micro-switch I am getting a reading of 0v, so i guess the switch is getting some power.
Also the dashboard switch still doesn't work with the micro-switch unplugged.
I have ordered another new switch so hopefully this one will work.
#8
Posted 06 May 2011 - 05:13 PM
A slight error, I was relying on memory.
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Weaselling out of things is important to learn,it's what separates us from the animals Except the weasel
#9
Posted 06 May 2011 - 07:04 PM
Master-of-none, on 06 May 2011 - 05:13 PM, said:
A slight error, I was relying on memory.
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Thanks for that.
When I get the new switch I shall do some more testing if it doesn't work.
#10
Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:44 PM
pcs333, on 06 May 2011 - 07:04 PM, said:
Master-of-none, on 06 May 2011 - 05:13 PM, said:
A slight error, I was relying on memory.
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Mine has 0.8V at the dash switch, blue/black and yellow/black wires share the same terminal.
Voltage does not change when the remote is used but obviously the switch earths it.
Hope that helps with the fault finding!
Thanks for that.
When I get the new switch I shall do some more testing if it doesn't work.
Right new switch didn't work either
I have tested the voltage at my dashboard switch and it is about 0.5v, the same as the boot switch.
I`m stuck now, are there any fuses I can try? I can't see any.
If there are no fuses or relays I can test I guess I will need to try a new drivers door lock, is that correct?
Cheers Guys
#11
Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:45 PM
PURPLE_2L_LX, on 04 May 2011 - 05:32 PM, said:
Is the interior button working? Any other locking issues?
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
Usually the switch if its just the boot switch issue but other locking problems could point to the drivers door lock
module being faulty.
Where is the drivers door lock module guys?
#13
Posted 07 May 2011 - 06:33 PM
RedCarsAnonymous, on 07 May 2011 - 06:03 PM, said:
Thanks for the guide, most of the pics associated with the actual locking motor are missing though.
Is this what I need http://cgi.ebay.co.u...64#ht_500wt_949 , or is there a seperate module as well?
#14
Posted 07 May 2011 - 07:19 PM
Yes that is the lock/motor/module
But, before spending £25+ you could try this:
Others have found damage where the cables flex when joining the tailgate it may be worth peeling this back to look.
otherwise the usual disclaimer applies - assumes you can cut and safely repair a piece of wire without destroying the car!
Carefully cut or remove the black/blue wire from the rear of the dash switch, so that just the yellow/black remains
(leave a tail so it can be rejoined/replaced)
Check the volts & dash switch action, if it works then you do have an earth fault in the wiring towards the boot.
But, before spending £25+ you could try this:
Others have found damage where the cables flex when joining the tailgate it may be worth peeling this back to look.
otherwise the usual disclaimer applies - assumes you can cut and safely repair a piece of wire without destroying the car!
Carefully cut or remove the black/blue wire from the rear of the dash switch, so that just the yellow/black remains
(leave a tail so it can be rejoined/replaced)
Check the volts & dash switch action, if it works then you do have an earth fault in the wiring towards the boot.
Weaselling out of things is important to learn,it's what separates us from the animals Except the weasel
#15
Posted 07 May 2011 - 08:48 PM
Master-of-none, on 07 May 2011 - 07:19 PM, said:
Yes that is the lock/motor/module
But, before spending £25+ you could try this:
Others have found damage where the cables flex when joining the tailgate it may be worth peeling this back to look.
otherwise the usual disclaimer applies - assumes you can cut and safely repair a piece of wire without destroying the car!
Carefully cut or remove the black/blue wire from the rear of the dash switch, so that just the yellow/black remains
(leave a tail so it can be rejoined/replaced)
Check the volts & dash switch action, if it works then you do have an earth fault in the wiring towards the boot.
But, before spending £25+ you could try this:
Others have found damage where the cables flex when joining the tailgate it may be worth peeling this back to look.
otherwise the usual disclaimer applies - assumes you can cut and safely repair a piece of wire without destroying the car!
Carefully cut or remove the black/blue wire from the rear of the dash switch, so that just the yellow/black remains
(leave a tail so it can be rejoined/replaced)
Check the volts & dash switch action, if it works then you do have an earth fault in the wiring towards the boot.
I checked today just by unplugging the dash switch and checking the voltage on the black/blue wire. It was 0.5v which is similar as what the boot switch is getting.
Does this not confirm that the loom is ok?
Thanks for your help
#17
Posted 08 May 2011 - 04:57 PM
Master-of-none, on 08 May 2011 - 09:29 AM, said:
My suggestion would isolate the (possibly) damaged part of the loom and confirm that the dash switch works.
Thanks I understand what you're saying now, I was slightly confused there for a minute.
I shall try that, thanks again.
#18
Posted 09 May 2011 - 12:41 PM
No the dash switch is not working either after trying master-of-none's suggestion.
Just ordered another door lock from ebay. fingers crossed it works.
Just ordered another door lock from ebay. fingers crossed it works.
#19
Posted 11 May 2011 - 05:09 PM
My boot release switch never used to work, or the handle on the tailgate, when i replaced the drivers master lock it started working and still does .. hope you get yours sorted.
#20
Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:08 PM
oldsierra fan, on 11 May 2011 - 05:09 PM, said:
My boot release switch never used to work, or the handle on the tailgate, when i replaced the drivers master lock it started working and still does .. hope you get yours sorted.
Thanks m8
I did get one from ebay and it arrived with the cable connector broken off so I couldn't use it.
Ironically it did sort my problems out, because I plugged it in to test, but obviously I can't use it.







