5 replies to this topic

[marknotgeorge]

I have had a 2004 Fusion 2 TDCi for about a month now. I'm happy with it, although I am concerned about the injector seals. It seems to run fine, and gives the economy I expect, but I do get a bit of a hydrocarbon smell in the cabin occasionally, and it does sometimes need a bit of a crank to get started after leaving it overnight, although once started first thing, it's okay for the rest of the day. Under the bonnet, I've also noticed it's a bit messy, and there is sometimes a puff of white smoke from the top of the engine.

Some googling and reading the TIS has led me to believe that I could possibly have a go at replacing the seals, although I could do with a bit more advice. I feel confident enough to do the work, I just need some more information.

What parts do I need, and what is the apporoximate cost? I know I need seals, and injector pipes, is there anything else? I've read about a kit. What does this contain?

What tools do I need? Is there anything unusual I have to get? Obviously, I'm trying to save money, so if I have to get lots of expensive and specific new tools it's a bit pointless.

What's the best thing to get the crud that forms round leaky injectors off?

Thanks.

Mark.

[siruncle]

Tap 'tdci injector seals how' into the search box, there's some posts on there. Can do it on this page just change 'this topic' to 'forums' theres some advice on there, i don't think anyone's done a wiki though. It may be in the haynes manual too, a step by step with pics.
At the end of the day doing it yourself is always cheaper than taking it to a garage.

http://www.haynes.co...30101&langId=-1

just check your engine is covered and this may be the manual you need.

[barrie m]

u will need
PARTS:
copper injector washers x4
injector bush x4
injector clamp blots x4
injector leak on pipe/s x1
inlet manifold o-rings x4
WD40

TOOLS: (main one's)
7mm scoket
8mm scoket & spanner
10mm scoket & spanner
13mm scoket
14mm spanner
T25 trox
T30 trox
screwdrivers
pilers or something similer
hammer
hoover
camara for pic's to refer back too

undo jubilee clip on rubber boost pipe, undo T30trox on tdci box then where that joins the turbo undo 8mm bolt on turbo, remove rubber pipe from throttle and turn all that on turbo 90 degrees and then remove
disconnet MAF sensor then undo 8mm bolt below that, then remove front half of cold intake, then reach behind fuel filter and pull other half out of air box
then unplug MAP sensor on top of airbox, then undo 8mm bolt and lay to 1 side, lift hand primer out of holder
undo 2 T25trox's what hold air box down and then undo jubilee clip on turbo and pull pipe off and off rocker cover then pull airbox off rubber mounts and remove complete with MAF and pipe
disconnect main wiring loom multi plug next to fuel filter and remove from holder, then disconnect multi plugs from injectors and lay loom to 1 side
undo 2 7mm bolts on top off fuel filter and remove metal cover, then disconnect fuel all fuel lines, then undo 2 8mm bolts and a T25trox and lift fuel filter up disconnect multi plug on bottom and then remove filter
disconnect injector leak off pipe from main pipe work, then disconnect red multi plug on fuel lines, then disconnect 2 pipes from fuel pump and remove fuel lines and hand primer
undo 10mm bolt on coolant bottle, disconnect top pipe on coolant bottle, lift bottle disconnect bottom hose and remove coolant bottle
on the top timing belt cover unclip wiring loom, undo 4 or 5 7mm bolts on top timing cover then remove cover
on rear left of engine theres a metal pipe, undo 2 T30trox and pull pipe out as best as ya can
as u look at engine, where the rubber mounts r for the airbox, under them on rear of engine theres 2 10mm bolts, remove them
then undo all 8mm bolts around rocker cover/inlet manifold, then remove (lay a bin liner or similer across engine to stop thing falling in)
then undo high pressure pipes, then undo 13mm injector clamp bolts
then wiggle injectors loose, when they r all loose lift them all out together with leak off pipe hold them together, once out disconnect leak off, remove plastic bushes,washers
if any washers r left in holes then with flat blade screwdriver slightly bigger than inside hole gentle tap into washer and wiggle out
then gently break up and scrape carbon and use hoover to remove it
clean injector bodys (BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH NOZZLES/TIPS)
when ready fit bushes into top part of injector holes, fit washers and leak off to injectors,
fit new o-rings on inlet manifold, make sure to grease/lub these and when fitting back they r fully in as r tight to get back in
then refit in reverse order
once ready to sart, prime fuel system with hand primer, then as cranking carry on priming till starts (may take a few goes)

i think i've covered it as best i can, hope this helps!

[marknotgeorge]

Thanks, Barrie. Sorry for the delay in replying, been rather busy. I've phoned my local dealer, and the parts they say I'll need come to just under £50. I've booked space under my mate's carport in case it rains, and I'm going to do the work on Saturday. I'll let you know how I get on.

Just a couple more questions:

You mention remove the coolant bottle. I take it that means emptying the coolant and refilling with fresh? Also, you say to grease the new o-rings. Is normal lithium grease ok for this?

Thanks again.

Mark.

[siruncle]

may be able to clamp the hoses from the bottle, and lithium grease should be ok.

[marknotgeorge]

Right, the job's done, following barrie's instructions, helped with diagrams from the TIS. By the way, you can run the TIS on Windows 7 using VMLite and the Windows compatibility pack perfectly fine.

But I digress. I got bushes, seals, leak-off pipe assembly, R clips and a blanking kit. The blanking kit cost about £30 quid, but I felt it was a worthwhile inverstment, being far cheaper than even one injector. The difficult parts were the EGR pipe (the metal one at the back). This is a cast iron (aluminium to be precise) bitch. The T30 screws are awkward to get to - a right angle allen key or stubby screwdriver is needed here. We also needed to remove an 8mm bolt from a clamp at the rear of the engine, and employ a strap to help persuade the EGR pipe fit back in the inlet manifold on reassembly. We also used the rocker cover bolts to hold the binbag over the camshaft. Be prepared to find lots of carbony crud under the rocker cover and around the injectors, which needed a little gentle persuasion to get out.

After reassembly, we tried to start. I think we'd failed to ensure the system was properly primed, and flattened the battery trying to start last night. Tired and filthy, we left it until this morning. I'd recommend putting the end of the fuel return pipe in a bottle and priming until a steady flow comes out before attempting to start. After doing this, and checking electrical connectors, etc, and with the use of jump leads, we finally managed to get it to start.

Initial results seem positive. It sounds better, and I think the smell's gone. There was just a touch of smoke still, but I'm hoping it's just a bit of spillage burning off. I'll keep an eye on it over the week.

Thanks for the help and support.