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More
S max sticky steering fault
Started by Rodolph Hucker, Oct 16 2011 06:55 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 16 October 2011 - 06:55 PM
Hello, I have owned my Smax 2.0 tdci titanium for 3 years and has developed a dangerous steering fault .It initially started when i turn left but sticks when i straighten up requiring a lot of force to get past it but then seems ok for a bit.Two local garages took a look but could not say definitly what it was but thought it was the rack .At around a £1000 to change the rack i took it off myself (i am an engineer but not motor mechanic)and had it reconditioned by PSR .I refiited it and initially had the same problem but now only does it on full lock or it i move the wheel suddenly.Can anyone tell me if there are any valves in the pump which may be sticking ?Does the spool valve in the rack have any moving valves to direct the fluid ? Anyone else had this ?
Thank you for any help you can give .I just dont want to spend 500 on a pump and find it could have an easy fix
Sorry i think this is posted in the wrong bit.
Thank you for any help you can give .I just dont want to spend 500 on a pump and find it could have an easy fix
Sorry i think this is posted in the wrong bit.
#2
Posted 16 October 2011 - 08:46 PM
It might be worth checking that you have enough tension on the power steering pump drive belt.
Peter
Peter
#3
Posted 17 October 2011 - 02:55 PM
peter scott, on 16 October 2011 - 08:46 PM, said:
It might be worth checking that you have enough tension on the power steering pump drive belt.
Peter
Peter
Thanks for the reply peter ,but the pump is electric.The 2.0 tdci i believe is the only engine size with this pump for some reason.
#4
Posted 17 October 2011 - 05:03 PM
I have been reading other threads on this topic and it seems that mondeos with the same set up seem to have this trouble as well .Because i am not sure whether this is a mechanical or hydraulic fault i am going to disable the hydraulic side and run it with just the rack .I hope by by just dissconnecting the pump electrics and putting a link across the flow and return the car will still run with the fault on the dash .I have to say that i am surprised nobody has a solution to this from any ford garage locally.none have the test equipment to pressure test the pump so when they say it needs a new pump it can only be a guess.
#5
Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:05 PM
Rodolph Hucker, on 17 October 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:
I have been reading other threads on this topic and it seems that mondeos with the same set up seem to have this trouble as well .Because i am not sure whether this is a mechanical or hydraulic fault i am going to disable the hydraulic side and run it with just the rack .I hope by by just dissconnecting the pump electrics and putting a link across the flow and return the car will still run with the fault on the dash .I have to say that i am surprised nobody has a solution to this from any ford garage locally.none have the test equipment to pressure test the pump so when they say it needs a new pump it can only be a guess.
might sound daft are the levels ok, sticking might be hydrostatic lock, and then bleed it. i believe they are self bleeding by slowly moving full left lock to full right lock and back several times.
ive developed a different cluncking fault in my rack and need to remove aswell. how did you get yours off.
#6
Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:37 PM
greenmorph, on 17 October 2011 - 07:05 PM, said:
Rodolph Hucker, on 17 October 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:
I have been reading other threads on this topic and it seems that mondeos with the same set up seem to have this trouble as well .Because i am not sure whether this is a mechanical or hydraulic fault i am going to disable the hydraulic side and run it with just the rack .I hope by by just dissconnecting the pump electrics and putting a link across the flow and return the car will still run with the fault on the dash .I have to say that i am surprised nobody has a solution to this from any ford garage locally.none have the test equipment to pressure test the pump so when they say it needs a new pump it can only be a guess.
might sound daft are the levels ok, sticking might be hydrostatic lock, and then bleed it. i believe they are self bleeding by slowly moving full left lock to full right lock and back several times.
ive developed a different cluncking fault in my rack and need to remove aswell. how did you get yours off.
Levels are good and i got new oil from ford.
This is how i took mine off
After you have dissconnected track rods and drained fluid
Remove u/j bolts form steering column to rack and make a note of the steering wheel position relative to the rack as the steering column has a clock ring in it .
Remove brace behind sub frame
Undo steering rack bolts
Remove bolt that attaches to subframe to gearbox .
Remove pipe clamps and brackets
Remove two rear subframe bolts and support subframe, only loosen the front mounting bolts!
Lower the subframe down with a jack about 5 or 6 inches .remember it will pivot from the front so if it wont go low enough to get the rack out just loosen the fronts a bit more
I removed the rack through the passenger side wheel arch.
Sorry if i missed anything.
#7
Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:41 PM
Rodolph Hucker, on 17 October 2011 - 07:37 PM, said:
greenmorph, on 17 October 2011 - 07:05 PM, said:
Rodolph Hucker, on 17 October 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:
I have been reading other threads on this topic and it seems that mondeos with the same set up seem to have this trouble as well .Because i am not sure whether this is a mechanical or hydraulic fault i am going to disable the hydraulic side and run it with just the rack .I hope by by just dissconnecting the pump electrics and putting a link across the flow and return the car will still run with the fault on the dash .I have to say that i am surprised nobody has a solution to this from any ford garage locally.none have the test equipment to pressure test the pump so when they say it needs a new pump it can only be a guess.
might sound daft are the levels ok, sticking might be hydrostatic lock, and then bleed it. i believe they are self bleeding by slowly moving full left lock to full right lock and back several times.
ive developed a different cluncking fault in my rack and need to remove aswell. how did you get yours off.
Levels are good and i got new oil from ford.
This is how i took mine off
After you have dissconnected track rods and drained fluid
Remove u/j bolts form steering column to rack and make a note of the steering wheel position relative to the rack as the steering column has a clock ring in it .
Remove brace behind sub frame
Undo steering rack bolts
Remove bolt that attaches to subframe to gearbox .
Remove pipe clamps and brackets
Remove two rear subframe bolts and support subframe, only loosen the front mounting bolts!
Lower the subframe down with a jack about 5 or 6 inches .remember it will pivot from the front so if it wont go low enough to get the rack out just loosen the fronts a bit more
I removed the rack through the passenger side wheel arch.
Sorry if i missed anything.
thanks for the advice. possibly doing it this weekend if i get defo answer from ford that that it defo the fault. thanks again and good luck with yours
#8
Posted 12 February 2012 - 01:42 PM
Hello,glad I am not the only with this problem.i did have the steering rack reconditioned which has improved it but not totally resolved.the steering is fine with normal driving but Sharp movements such as when you are doing a 3point turn feel heavy.I. Am just living with it for now as it does feel safe with normal driving .what I would recommend you do is disconnect the tie rods at the stub axle and bleed by moving the from right to left .removing the tie rod ensures full travel of the rack as I had a feeling with it connected it wasn't. Also hold the wheel at full lock for a few seconds each side.i do now wonder if it is the rack because when I first fitted it the problem although different was still there.it was only after the procedure above i was able to drive it safely.
The problem seemed to occur after the car was parked for two weeks with the steering hard over,but it may just be coincidence.The only thing left is the pump but at £500 I will wait for a secondhand one or see if I can find one to dismantle and see where the problem is.i had discounted the pump initially but cant see what else could be causing it.
Sorry I can't be any more conclusive but try the bleeding as I described above first.
Mike
The above is what I sent in a reply to another member and maybe useful to others .
Also what does the clock ring do on the steering column ? Can t see how it's connected but just a thought.
Mike.
The problem seemed to occur after the car was parked for two weeks with the steering hard over,but it may just be coincidence.The only thing left is the pump but at £500 I will wait for a secondhand one or see if I can find one to dismantle and see where the problem is.i had discounted the pump initially but cant see what else could be causing it.
Sorry I can't be any more conclusive but try the bleeding as I described above first.
Mike
The above is what I sent in a reply to another member and maybe useful to others .
Also what does the clock ring do on the steering column ? Can t see how it's connected but just a thought.
Mike.
#9
Posted 12 February 2012 - 01:46 PM
Forgot to say if any one has a scrap pump I would love to take one apart and see if they are serviceable .i would gladly pay for an old unit
Mike
Mike
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