4 replies to this topic

[gabriel_eubank]

Okay, if you are experiencing issues with your Fiesta 1.4 tdci, ie it will not start...and you can hear a chuffing sound when you turn the key..you are in the right place.....

Ford want to charge what can only be described as a mortgage repayment to complete this job...

It can be done by yourself if you are confident enough, and know your way around engines...

I completed this job and in total i probably spent about 3hrs a day over a week, most of the time is spent on removing the carbon build up that is everywhere..

You will need the Fiesta Haynes manual, a decent socket set inc torx T25 and T30, pliers, hammer, screwdriver, hoover, (air compressor optional) latex gloves pack

First off, get yourself down to the ford stealership with at least 90 quid and purchase

4XCopper washers
4x Injector bushes
1x Injector leak on pipes
4x Inlet manifold o rings
Injectors and common rail blanking plug kit

It should look like this


Get the Haynes out and start stripping down the parts to get the inlet manifold off, take your time, its an easy 3 hrs work before you get the inlet off, take photos as you go, it makes it easier on the rebuild.


All this needs to be removed before you can remove the inlet manifold.

Issues you may come across, may be the injector wiring loom multi plug connector, to disconnect this, there is a blue tab on it, lift this up, and the plug easily disconnects do not force it out or pry it apart.
The egr pipe is easier to remove as a complete unit.




When you finally get the inlet manifold off, you will be presented with something similar to this, hopefully yours will not be this bad.


Now start removing the carbon crud as carefully as you can, get a old rag and bung up the inlet ports to stop the dry carbon from falling in, the ports can be cleaned later..
Do not remove the injectors or hard injector lines until the stubborn carbon deposits are removed, an air compressor with a air nozzle makes light work of this, hoover the carbon up as you go..you need to get it as clean as you can.
This stage takes time so don't rush it..


When you have cleaned it up as best as you can, start removing the injector hard lines, and place the injector blanking plugs on the common rail and the injectors, be careful not to get any carbon in the rail.


Clean the hard lines and place to one side.

Remove the injectors and clean them up using Gunk degreasent and 1500 grit wet and dry for the stubborn carbon.


Again take your time on cleaning the injectors, and make sure you don't touch the tips, they are extremely delicate, replace the injector leak pipes, and make sure you do not swap the injectors around, some injectors are coded to the ecu, and will not work if changed around. after 4 hrs cleaning they should look something like this..

Make sure when the injectors are removed the injector copper washers are not at the bottom of the injector holes, the surface of the injector holes must be clean and free of carbon deposits, i used engine gunk and a thin paint brush to gently ease away the carbon deposits at the bottom, this took many hours but did the job

When you have completed this, start to build it all back up, and if you have wisely taken photos, this will be even easier, especially when you get to the fuel filter pipes...

Prime the pump up when everything is back together, and again, take your time, remember the fuel filter housing will probably be empty of diesel, and this needs to be filled up again using the pump, 30 presses should do it, make sure its solid with no air moving through the pipes...

Start her up, it may take a few attempts, but she will cough and splutter into life, give it 1500 on the revs for a while until she idles nicely..

Job done...



Other resources can be found here...http://www.talkford....injector-seals/

[Nick]

That'll be a great wiki addition, thanks

[dan_mk3]

Excellent post helped me a lot thanks, I'm putting mine all back together tomoz once I've bought the copper washers - is it essential to change the bushes on the injectors and the rubber seals on the inlet manifold??? (car is a 1.4 Tdci not a Mondeo like in my sig)

[gabriel_eubank]

Personally i would change the injector bushes and the rubber seals, purely because of how difficult they are to get too, at least then you know the job is done properly, and when i was completing the research to do this procedure, it was essential these items were replaced.

[johnrregan]

ive just done these seals on my 130 thousand mile 1.4tdci fiesta. couple of things i note, first, the copper seals were much thinner than the ones that i took out, ones in there were about 2.5mm or 3 mm thick, but the new ones were 1.5 ish, noticibly thinner. the other thing i noticed was that i found it much easier to put the top seals for the injectors into the recess in the head first and gently tap it down into the recess with a socket before inserting the injector itself. trying to do it the other way just ended up pushing the seals up the body of the injector and they wouldnt go all the way into the head. two of the ones in their already werent more than halfway in so im wondering if they werent done before and not driven all the way home. one tip i also found was that if i got 4 squash balls they would fit perfectly into the inlet tracts and seal them completely but still allow me to chip away at the carbonated build up round the inlets without risking dropping anything into the combustion chamber.
i dont know how long mine have needed doing as ive just got the car, but it must have been for thousands of miles, cos there was probably a half kilo of carbon build up in big lumps like chunks of coal !! i changed the filters and oil at the same time and it fired up second attempt, great, no fuel smell in the cab and no chuff chuffing from under the bonet! happy days! well so far!