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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. Just got this cheap from a friend. Looks tidy, but won't pass MoT :( .

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So far I need to deal with:

  • engine management light permanently on
  • same with ABS light
  • rusted front brake pipes
  • horrendous noise from drivetrain (inner CV joint?)
  • broken OSF coil spring

I've ordered a new spring and wheel bearing plus 1 ABS sensor :huh: and got a used driveshaft for £20 from a breaker yesterday.

Should get started on things on Saturday and hopefully get MoT'd soon
 

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Megger
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What sort of spec (if any) do you get on a Mistral?

I'd be tempted to strip it.
 

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Megger
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LX with pre facelift Zetec wheels and little boot spoiler.
 
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I'm not sure exactly what the Mistral spec is or where it fits in the range but the guys above seem to know their onions.

Anyway. Where are we with this....

iirc 2 Friday's ago (29th) I set about loosening off all the bolts to get into the driveshaft (as I was convinced the terrible noise was coming from there) but the first thing that struck me was the coil spring had snapped :eek:

So I tentatively put things back together and ordered from Ebay a coil spring and wheel bearing and then the following Wednesday, having knocked-off work early, went round the local breakers to look for a driveshaft.

Surprisingly there weren't many Mondeos in the yards, and any that were - were diesels. Late into the afternoon we found one yard with a petrol Mk3.

The car was predictably wedged-in between other cars and the OSF wasn't accessible, but the NSF was.

I know the left and right driveshafts are different lengths but (having had a similar problem with my old Suzuki Swift years ago) know that the bit which fails, on the inner joint, is the spider/tripod and I could therefore just use the inner joint off it or even just the spider.

Also someone else had been in and removed the strut before me so all I had to do was pop out the driveshaft.

This took much longer than I expected as the car was flat on the ground and it took a long time and many broken tyre-changing-jacks to get the thing up high enough to get any leverage behind it.

It was good practise for removing my own ones later I guess. The guy charged me £20 which seemed fair enough but I heard later you can get reconditioned ones for just over £30 :rolleyes:

My wheel bearing arrived on Thursday but I wasn't in and this happened again on the Friday.

On Saturday I fitted the coil spring. I've done this before on other cars without much trouble. The broken spring came off without much trouble but fitting the new one proved more difficult. Basically two compressors weren't enough as the spring need to be compressed down until the coils are touching almost before the top mount could be fitted on.

With the two compressors I had on tightened to the max the spring was still too long. You can't remove then to start again on another coil so it was a case of - cycle to Halfords and buy another set at £30!

I was also rather pleased that the extremely rusty OSF brake pipe unscrewed from the hose with little drama. A sharp action on the mole-grips gave a pleasing cracking sound. Hopefully the others would yield as easily.

I was also amazed that the screw for the ABS sensor came out too. So I replaced the sensor and drove home feeling safer with the new spring but still that noise and unsurprisingly ABS light still on.

Whilst I was working on the driver's side I felt for play in the driveshaft inner joint and there was none. My co-pilot said he could feel the rumbling on his side of car so maybe I was in luck getting the NSF driveshaft after all. That was a job for another day as the coil spring took me most of the day.

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front spring has snapped at some point

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looks pretty dangerous

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sticker on shock gives a lot of data

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new spring

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unusual 18mm nut on strut-top. I have no 18mm ring spanner

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old broken spring compressed fine with 2 clamps

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lift off the spring and various parts

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now we need to make the new one this short

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which required more clamps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh. Forgot the brakes pipes....

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rusty OSF brake pipe unscrewed fine

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trace it back along here

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and find convenient joining point before ABS/master cylinder etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so with the OSF spring replaced and no obvious source for the noise I was getting whilst driving I turned to the NSF for a look. This was on Monday and the rain was pretty bad. I got the strut off just before thunder and lightning started and could then move inside to take the bearing out as it was clear this was worn when I spun the hub but there was no obvious play in it when the wheel etc were still on.

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driveshaft nut comes undone quite easily with a heavy duty breaker bar. this is a 3/3" drive type and pretty long. well worth the investment as they aren't expensive

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this is a good point for an axle stand once car is up in the air

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caliper mounting bolts have 15mm head but can be rather tight and even a six-sided socket might slip

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I found forcing a 14mm socket on gave a better grip

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balljoint pinch-bolt nut is an unusual 18mm size as with shock-absorber nut

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quite a lot of leverage is required to pull arm/balljoint down from strut. G-clamp on arm (with some packing) gives something to lever down upon

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but I cracked both of mine and substituted it with a ratchet strap which worked fine

I intended to remove the hub/bearing with my press but resorted to good old fashioned hammering and grinding because it was easier: The hub could be pressed out of the bearing inner races but you'd need to find/engineer some thin supports to go between the flange (bit that road-wheel attaches to) and the strut/knuckle whilst pressing down on the thin/tube end of the hub. If you hit it firmly with a large hammer the hub flies out taking the outboard inner rice with it and ball bearing over the floor. You than need to remove the race from the hub and this could be done with a puller or again with some sort of supports behind the race and pressure on the hub to push it down through the race.

I opted to slice it with a thin disc on the angle grinder then crack it with a hammer once it was weakened. Not pretty but works fine if you are careful not to gouge the hub tube.

The inboard-inner race of the bearing and the outer race will still be in the strut at this point and the inner can be popped out by hand. All that's then left to do is remove the outer. You'd need a really large drift/block to push down on it as it is quite wide.

I found a thick piece of steel and cut it to roughly the diameter of the bearing then ground the corners off and thumped the race out with a large hammer.

Bit disappointed that I had to resort to force when I have the press but at least I'll be able to use it to press in the new one quickly and cleanly hopefully.

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when hub is hammered out of strut/wheel-bearing the outboard inner-race will be stuck on it. it can be drawn off or cut off

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bar-of-soap-shaped device made up to push/hammer outer bearing race from the strut/knuckle
 

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So, Monday the bearing was out and I just needed to get the bearing that was 'failed delivery' the previous Thursday/Friday.

Well. I finished work early on Wednesday and couldn't find anyone to give me a lift to the depot which is about 10/15 miles away so I decided to get a bus down. Just before I jumped on I phoned the parcel company to let them know I was coming and they advised me the bearing was returned to sender - that morning :darn:

So on Friday I got one from a local motor factors for £33. The original was only £12 (fre P&P) so that failed delivery has cost me quite a bit.

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new bearing - £33

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not sure if these markings can be used to identify bearing size/type as is normally the case

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So. That's me got a new bearing but let's have a look at the old one

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old bearing parts re-assembled. this is outboard face (ie side nearest road-wheel)

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and this is inboard face with rubber seal

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when hub is drifted out it takes outboard inner-race with it and you inevitably lose some of the ball bearings

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which sit inside this plastic cage on the outer race

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which lifts off to reveal same set-up on the other side

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if you flip it over these lift out also

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bearing races were in fine condition on outboard side

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but very bad on inboard side - outer race....

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....and inner

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you can actually see that the (complete) set of balls from the inboard side are rusty and discoloured in comparison to the (incomplete) set of balls from the outboard side
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And one last observation

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inboard plastic cage has fuller teeth on it. not sure if outboard one was same and damaged when hub drifted out or if it is supposed to be like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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quite a lot of leverage is required to pull arm/balljoint down from strut. G-clamp on arm (with some packing) gives something to lever down upon
NB - the Haynes manual advises you should not lever down on the lower-arm the separate the balljoint from the knuckle as it will damage the rear bush on the lower arm. They advise the subframe should be lowered. Tool ate for me to do that now but it might not be as much hassle as it sounds.

The reason I used the leverage technique is that I saw on YouTube that garages have a special tool to pull the lower arm down (big lever which presses against engine and has hook which goes onto lower arm) and it was only after successfully doing this that I read the caution in the Haynes manual
 

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i've always put a block of wood on the jack, jacked the hub up (usually on the disc) a bit, then stuck a big long bar over the top of the wishbone, and under the subframe and just pushed down till it pops out. Done them on every car i've had the pleasure of bottom baljoint popping. Should be easier on a mk3 than a 2 as one of the mk3 bushes is the opposite direction to the other (unlike mk2's). If you are not seriously overstretching the bush, you should be fine.
 

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So with the front bearing out and the coil-spring replaced I turned my attention to the brake pipes. I said previously that the front ones looked rusty.

Well, the rear did too and I found myself removing them all one afternoon. It was a very frustrating job underneath as I didn't have the car up high enough and the ground I was working on was of mud and road chippings so it wasn't possible to slide my trolley around.

Rust dropping in eyes, bumps to head and soggy clothing added to the depressing aesthetics of a rusty underbody made for a demoralising experience.

I also couldn't get the N/S/F pipe off as it was very tight on top of the ABS module and there wasn't very good access as it is situated under the servo.

I tried to get some free play for the N/S/R pipe by removing the LHS fuel-tank strap which involved loosening an underbody heatshield to get at the strap but it still snapped as I was wiggling it out. The O/S/R is a lot shorter but wouldn't come out from above the crossmember so I gave up for the day.

The job would be a lot easier with the engine and rear subframe out but that's maybe taking things too far...

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can't believe the nick these wheels are in

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at least one caliper has been replaced

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exhaust is rather rusty

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just needs a clean and something sprayed on it

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would be easy to get pipes off if all this wasn't in the way

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N/S/R pipe wanders off above subframe and over to RHS of car

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rear pipes join to under-car pipes near fuel filler neck

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rear ends of under-car brake pipes

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these look too far gone to me

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front ends are in better condition (they live in engine bay)
 

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You seem to have a real good grip on getting this poor girl (always refer to motors as girls) back to rude health, good write up fella!
 

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So. It was Thursday night that I got the pipes off.... but there were still two to come off so I returned to it on Sunday afternoon after some reading of the manual which suggested that taking the servo off isn't a job likely to cause any problems (ie disturbing seals or something) so I wrestled that out. Basically if you can undo the two 13mm union nuts on the M/C, pull off some hoses and push out the 'R' clip & white nylon clevis pin it comes off and you can get good access to the top of the ABS unit.

As this is aluminium and the brake pipe unions are steel they seemed to be very tough to budge. If something snaps or strips you'd be looking at a replacement ABS unit :(

The split ring spanner I was using was just rounding the union nut and I considered cutting the pipe off close to the union and putting a socket on it to get max grip but as I couldn't find my 11mm socket right then had the bizarre idea to run a full ring spanner along from the other end (ie the wheelwell) past the various bends and obstacles to the ABS unit. It worked :p

It was then time to wrestle out the O/S/R. After a half hour or so of trying to wiggle it free I just snapped the end of and dragged it out. Part of the reason for trying to get it out in one piece was to save the shape for making up the copy but that's a bit dumb as I won't be able to get that back in over the crossmember.

Anyway. I folded them all up (not tightly) and stuck them in my rucksack to examine/measure the following day and go and get new ones made up at the local motor-factors.

Also finished off the night Googling re Mondeo subframes. Seems they aren't too hard to remove and even more surprisingly you can get re-furbished ones for about £60. Tempting..... ^_^

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disconnect this pipe from servo (push fit)

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separating these two gives a little extra room for manouvre

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as does moving aside air filter top casing, by removing 3 screws

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nuts holding servo to this bracket are reachable but it is also connected to arm inside bracket with clevis pin. not easy to get to and will be even harder to replace

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hope this rust on strut tops doesn't fail MoT

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removing/replacing rear brake pipes would be easy if crossmember removed but these bolts look seized solid

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as do these, on arms from crossmember to struts

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Wire brush , clean and protect any other rust you think might fail a Mot check.
It is better to conceal it now than fail.
 
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So, Monday came and I spent the early part of the afternoon measuring, re-measuring and re-measuring all the brake pipes before approaching the motor factors. All the time thinking of the time I got some done for my Polo and had to watch the guy 'measuring' them whilst talking to his mate on a wintery Saturday PM. I got to my garage with them, about 10 miles away from the shop, to find some of them about a foot short and I had no transport to get back there :angry:

I was determined this wouldn't happen again. In case anyone is interested here are the specs:

  • N/S/F: 60cm - 2 male fittings
  • O/S/F: 117cm - 1 male & 1 female fitting
  • N/S/R: 166cm - 2 male
  • O/S/R: 114cm - 1 male & 1 female
  • N/S/Fr-Rr: 345cm - 2 female
  • O/S/Fr-Rr: 299cm - 2 male

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brake pipes to be unfurled and measured

So. I set off on the bicycle with my rusty pipes and the stats to find the shop which I used to go to is now a nail salon, I then popped round to the motor factors that I got the wheel bearing from and it was no can do there but with a suggestion that an MoT station could make them for me. I then cycled into the next town to try another place I used to get them. Now an estate agents.

So I headed back to the garage and the landlord and his labourer were saying 'big Jim could make them up for you etc, have a beer blah blah blah'. I protested I wanted to achieve something with my day (ie fit the front wheel bearing) but I was soon drinking with them. They retired about 9 and doing the bearing seemed a bit unrealistic so I turned to the subframe.

Rather surprisingly all the rusty bolts came out no problem and the unit was soon wiggled out :biggrin: which will make re-fitting the pipes a lot easier - if I ever get any!

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rusty bolt

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another rusty bolt

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amazed at how clean the bolts connecting lower-arms the rear-knuckles were

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subframe-to-body bolts weren't too bad either

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once detached I pulled unit out to one side

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which allowed other side to drop below strut/knuckle....

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.....and be pulled out. NB unit is not as heavy as Haynes manual suggests

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would be nice to have it powdercoated

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exhaust needs to be lowered to get crossmember out. was sufficient to unhook from rubbers and rest on something to avoid strain up at CAT end
 

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Wow I am impressed.
I should have started a thread on my 200 £ car project like you did.
My project nearly completed now tho.
 
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Don't forget if your car will be off road for an extended period of time to look after the battery.
If you don't periodically charge it while in storage it can get damaged or fail.
A bad battery is the last thing you want as you try to start car on completion.
 
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