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Resident Wrestling Legend
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the pinch bolt is indeed a 15mm thing

they virtually never come out so you always get new ones in the kit

as for the brakes, those bolts are tough to get to, but that's one of the perils of leaving your car outside rather than in a garage

nice bit of work though, my mrs has forbid me from tinkering with the car as "you can't get replacement parts for the stuff you are going to break" lol
 

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Little Megger
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Nice work!the trouble with those flanged bolts I find, is the actual head is only half the height of a normal bolt head, coupled with most makes of sockets have a chamfered inner edge on them, so reducing the effective contact/grip surface when you're trying to undo a flanged bolt. What did you use to cut away that flange,
 
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Discussion Starter · #423 ·
Hi Mondygeek. You were right about the slider(s).

I stripped down the strut today and one is frozen solid.

Anyway I just came in to post about the pinch-bolt mainly and also to show a used strut I got for £24.98 - delivered. It was £15.99 + £8.99 P&P but the guy brought it to me as he was in the area but lives in England. Not sure how that works with the P&P lol but I wasn't going to quibble. At least I got it quick and also he seemed to end the listing as soon as I bid as am sure it had 8 days to run and next day I got invoice for it.

But yeah. I don't even know exactly what I'm doing here. Spring has broken on the 2.0 so do I stick this useable strut on that or buy bran-new parts for the 2.0 and put best used bits on the Mistral. I don't know tbh.

I found myself not working today and couldn't do much as the guy told me he'd drop the strut off in the afternoon at my flat despite the original address being to the barn, where I was working on the old strut, but I'd told him about the flat address as I didn't know if I'd be at the barn but he preferred the flat as it was more on his route (M77 to New Stephenson).

So I broke out the oxy-acetylene and roasted the area around the pinch-bolt and remaining caliper bolt. Dousing with ATF as I went. It's hard to tell when the parts are hot enough but they def weren't going cherry-red or orange. More a sort of white on the edges like you'd get on a bit of burnt wood.

I also hammered a 13mm socket onto the bolt as the 14mm didn't seem very tight. An 'expert' on the Facebook page tell me they are 15mm but am not convinced. I don't think you could hammer a 13mm onto a 15mm head even if it was worn. Simple way to check will be to measure the new one I have.

The bolt wound out pretty easily but has definitely got a bend in it! I took a video but not sure if they can be put on here so mb need to make it a YouTube link.

Despite also heating the caliper bolt I couldn't get any grip on it with a 12mm socket and an 11mm or 7/16AF or 15/32AF wouldn't go on either so I had to resort to cutting its head off then jiggling the carrier off the knuckle and finally winding the remains off bolt out the carrier with grips, No extra heat was needed.

The hub screws came out fine (it was replaced some time ago and still feels good) but I've not managed to separate the hub from knuckle yet. Have left that to side with ATF drizzled over the interface.

The spring looks pretty corroded so I don't think it's wise to re-use it and the shock is apparently knackered so I may only end up re-using the knuckle and hub from here

NdvQPFT.jpg


wvOhoLn.jpg


knuckle and its thread after heating with torch to remove pinch-bolt

kQw0C83.jpg


original pinch-bolt

VYZCgBd.jpg


removing head from caliper-carrier bolt

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head removed

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remains of bolt after carrier jiggled away strut

tsdIMEq.jpg


came out with grips no problem

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used strut for approx £25

L6Y1TQw.jpg


green green red on spring is correct for 1.8/2.0 petrol model afaik

YFb7Cki.jpg


orange square on shock seems familiar too
I find the info impossible to follow on the online catalogue(s) but am pretty sure green/green/red was used later than 2001 as my 04 car has them. I think my 03 (2.0 Ghia) also has them. Will find out soon as there's a broken spring to replace on that.

What is the 783/803kg thing m'z's? :kaffeetrinker_2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #424 ·
Nice work!the trouble with those flanged bolts I find, is the actual head is only half the height of a normal bolt head, coupled with most makes of sockets have a chamfered inner edge on them, so reducing the effective contact/grip surface when you're trying to undo a flanged bolt. What did you use to cut away that flange,
Yip. Plus I think it's the flanged-head that offers a lot of resistance when you are trying to undo it.

I actually started off trying to cut the flanges off (like I did with one of the track-control arm to knuckle bolts) but you can't really get to all sides of the caliper-carrier bolts so just had to butcher it.

I cut the flange off the earlier bolt with a thin disc on angle-grinder which I then stood on lol. It was last one I had then I found the well-worn one which worked well for the other, more confined, head
 

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Discussion Starter · #425 ·
the pinch bolt is indeed a 15mm thing

they virtually never come out so you always get new ones in the kit

as for the brakes, those bolts are tough to get to, but that's one of the perils of leaving your car outside rather than in a garage

nice bit of work though, my mrs has forbid me from tinkering with the car as "you can't get replacement parts for the stuff you are going to break" lol
Bit worrying that I could force a 13mm socket onto (what was once) a 15mm head but as you say that's what the elements do to a car.

What kit do you mean dojj? I know you get new (12mm head) bolts with brake-pads but wasn't aware of any other kits
 

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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
NB. I didn't mean to 'quote' my own post when answering mondy Z's one but too late to edit now
 

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Clever Clauggs
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On catcar all the different coloured dot springs all have 783/803 kg load weights

or breaking weight points, was hoping someone explains how or why they are different colour

to each different car type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #428 ·
On catcar all the different coloured dot springs all have 783/803 kg load weights

or breaking weight points, was hoping someone explains how or why they are different colour

to each different car type.
Yip. I don't get it tbh but front springs on diesel def different (thicker) cos of weight of engine I guess but mb rears are all the same. There's also confusing stuff like 'for 17" wheels. with 16" wheels' :crazy:

Anyway. I just came back in to see if I can add a link to a video clip I made of the bolt coming out easy-peasy after the oxy treatment but it doesn't seem to be working :(
 

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Jesus. I'm on a roll here...

Finished a shift labouring down the barn today and was intending to go straight home but thought I'd have another go getting my Jag V12 snapped cylinder-head studs out with the torch.

They've been stuck in block for years but after the success on the pinch-bolt the other day coupled with advice on a Facebook forum 'just forget the physics and get the fkn torch on them!' I popped in for another go.

This led to digging out a spare front knuckle I have which has had a snapped pinch-bolt in it for yonks. I can't be bothered checking back on the thread for the circumstances but basically the head is missing and I'm guessing I slit the shaft in order to get the knuckle off whatever shock it was on.

I then steeped it in rust-remover (diluted vinegar) as I want to make it look nice and I hoped this would also help free the remains of the bolt. I don't think it did.

Anyway today I built-up the nose of the bolt so there would be something to grip onto to wind it out. I then heated the knuckle with the torch and clamped the bolt with mole-grips and after a few taps with hammer felt it move. It then took quite a while to wind it out but I think that's because the threads on these, which is in the middle of the knuckle, get smeared for some reason. Anyway it came out.

I also heated the other side and doused it in ATF then clamped the knuckle in vice and drifted the well worn stub out.

Lastly I returned to the rear hub/knuckle from yesterday which had been soaked with ATF and tapped all round the interface with a hammer and they came apart pretty easily. Sweet.

No luck on the V12 studs yet but I can see them wiggling in the block and the ATF is definitely getting down in towards the threads. More importantly the (alloy) block isn't melting. I was always frightened to put the torch near alloy but on the Facebook forum was told 'just get it red.... no need to turn into molten lava!'

UVbF1V7.jpg

head snapped off

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bolt cut through gap in knuckle so there are 2 bits to remove

pRtrFFE.jpg

not much to grip on to here

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combination of MIG and oxy-acetylene got the threaded part out

65mosuh.jpg

other end drifted out

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remains of bolt very corroded/worn

8lsIyVy.jpg

rear knuckle & hub now separated. think new brake-plate is needed
 

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Resident Wrestling Legend
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the pinch bolt is indeed a 15mm thing

they virtually never come out so you always get new ones in the kit

as for the brakes, those bolts are tough to get to, but that's one of the perils of leaving your car outside rather than in a garage

nice bit of work though, my mrs has forbid me from tinkering with the car as "you can't get replacement parts for the stuff you are going to break" lol
Bit worrying that I could force a 13mm socket onto (what was once) a 15mm head but as you say that's what the elements do to a car.

What kit do you mean dojj? I know you get new (12mm head) bolts with brake-pads but wasn't aware of any other kits
i'll try to find my pics of the new shocks i got from somewhere, that came with a new pinch bolt included

not sure if they were ford originals or not though so that may be the reason
 

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Resident Wrestling Legend
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ok, it was a proper ford replacement as you probably can't tell from the picture
 

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Yes I see that dojj. Looks like blue square on sticker. I'm a bit colour-blind but the ones on my 1.8 & 2.0 petrol were blue(front)/orange(rear)

fhkJEvg.jpg

1.8/2.0 petrol front shock sticker. blue(?) square

Anyway. The reason I came in to post is that the new fasteners are starting to arrive for the suspension/brake re-build. Prob end up spending more on bolts than components lol but the old ones are well and truly knackered and I found that some generic bolts of similar spec were actually dearer than the ford ones so it's better just to get the OEM ones. These are the ones that hold the caliper-carrier to the knuckle. Bag of 5. I think the front and rear are same so you'd need 2 bags to do full all 4 corners and then there'd be 2 left over for the 2.0 lol

RfmFZ2r.jpg
boKO4bu.jpg

lots of data on labels but the bottom pic has Ford number 1471746

DgORKuN.jpg

M10 x 1.5 x 25mm 10.9 grade
 

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Clever Clauggs
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Something not right I thought ?? the front carrier to knuckle bolts were bigger heavier bolts than the rear
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Puma-Front-Fiesta-KA-Brake-Caliper-Retaining-Bolt-x5-1447853/272721216308?epid=1209778784&hash=item3f7f738334:g:EMsAAOSwmBhb4qs6

Front M12 x 30mm (1447853)??
Rear M10 x25 (1471746)??
You are of course correct MZs. I didn't think of that. Anyway I popped in to show the latest bolts that have arrived plus another spare strut.

These are the one which hold the arms from the rear subframe to the knuckle. You need 4 but again these are coming in packs of 5 from Rates Ford. £24.95 for the pack with free P&P.

They are Ford number 6517657 and are 10.9 grade M12 x 1.75 (pitch) x 65mm with 15mm head

bQLEK7x.jpg

up-to-date picking slips (sticker)

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5 items individually bagged with Ford sticker

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10.6 grade M12 x x 1.75 x 65mm. flange approx 24mm diameter

The used strut I got was £29 all-in and looks in decent condition. A little rust on top coil of spring but it's def the correct green/green/red one and if the shock is useable that's a bonus. I'm not sure exactly how to check that or how the MOT was failed on rear shocks as the old ones don't seem to be leaking but perhaps with the springs off I'll be able to feel a difference between the failed ones and any good ones I have

f6OoKED.jpg

another rear strut. £29 from Ebay

mBiK52Y.jpg

5ULvCAX.jpg

orange sticker and green/green/red dots appear to be correct for petrol saloon/hatch

7EfqhPJ.jpg

some rust on top coil
 

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So yesterday I set about doing some work on the suspensions. Wasn't quite sure what the direction was but think am a bit clearer now. I need a spring on the 2.0 for definite and the MOT ppl say I need two shocks on the 1.8 and I don't want to disturb the pinch-bolt and/or hub on the 2.0 so I needed to get a spring off one of the newly-purchased struts but then I also needed to establish if any of the shocks I have are useable.

Now the original leg I took off the 1.8 looks horrific so I don't plan to use any of that but I wanted to compare the action on it to the Ebay ones. I also picked up the shock I didn't use on the O/S/R when I changed the spring back in post #323.

So with my floor-mounted spring-compressor I set to work and took 3 springs off so now I have 4 shocks of uncertain condition and 3 springs. one a rusty mess and two rather good.

For the first time since working on these Mondeos I had big problems getting the nut of the shock-rod. First one went fine, 2nd one I had to put poles on both the 18mm ring-spanner and the T-bar that I was using with the 6mm Allen bit. 3rd one (the rusty original) I used ATF, oxy-acetylene torch, drill, extra leverage, snapped an Allen key and finally got it by holding the big washer on top-mount with grips while using the ring-spanner with an axle-stand tube on it.

Tbh the penetrating-fluid and heat were probably a waste of time as it's not corrosion that's holding the nut tight. I think it's the high torque on the flanged-nut that makes them hard to shift.

Anyway they are all free and I've 'tested' all the shocks by pulling the rods in and out and they feel pretty much the same so does that mean they are all good or all knackered?

When I was wrestling with the rusty original and the Allen bit seemed to round inside the rod I thought well I'm not going to be using it anyway but strangely despite twisting and snapping an Allen key in it after that the top seems serviceable again so it could be used but compared to the others it looks a rusty mess. That doesn't necessarily mean the internals are gubbed tho.

heeRMev.jpg

life is much easier with a hydraulic spring-compressor

0fWHBuj.jpg

eDoD6ax.jpg

due to bracket on strut it needs some packing to sit vertically

kiTnsbu.jpg

rusty original. shocks were MOT failure

KE5VVrm.jpg

spring is not snapped but surely will soon

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rusty original is dated 2003 whilst better (Ebay) ones are 2001 and 2006

0NLKuiX.jpg

springs from the Ebay struts look much better

SFNj3iK.jpg

Js0Q5FZ.jpg

had some trouble removing top nut but this eventually did it
 

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Discussion Starter · #439 ·
Hi ST56. Yes am pretty sure they are gas as there is a warning no to remove top-cap. The rods don't seem to extend by themselves. I can pull them up by hand tho.

How do MOT stations actually check/fail shocks if there are no visible leaks?

I can measure the strut no problem but what exactly do you need measured? diameter? positon of locating-bracket?

Graham
 

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Hi

i believe he just wanted the diameter where is slides into the hub. This was to see if MK3 units could be adapted and fitted to earlier MK2 Mondeo / Cougar models.

If gas has seeped out of the shocks it probably reduces there damping and will allow car to bounce a little easier. Not sure how they check damping efficiency at MOT. Most items like Brakes and Emissions have become more scientific. Perhaps they still check for oil leaks and just try bouncing each corner!

Peter
 
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