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Discussion Starter · #441 ·
So more fasteners have arrived. I'll need to count this up but that's about £60 on bolts now. Today it's the screws that hold the top-mounts to the turret on body plus the bolts that attach the trailing-arms to the bottom of the knuckle.

I'm getting all these fasteners from rates Ford, on Ebay, and P&P is free but it seems an awful waste that they are sending each order separately in a big jiffy bag :rolleyes:

Also got the rear pads and a couple of seal-kits for the rear calipers. My only observation about these is (as well as not being Bosch) the kits didn't used to include the seal that sits on the caliper body round the actuating-arm for the handbrake. These are now in the kids but strangely you seem to get 2 sizes

bMVMJsT.jpg


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trailing-arm to knuckle bolts. 10.9 M12 x 1.75 x 70mm

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strut to body screws. M8 x 1.25 x 30mm. don't know grade

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rear pads. Ferodo FSL1416

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pad kits always seem to include screws for floating part to slider pins

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seal kit

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2 options for actuating-arm seal?
 

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Hi

When ordering your parts from Rates did you use the Buyitnow on each item or add all to basket then proceed to Checkout?

Rates often turn out to give the best prices for genuine Ford items online.

Peter
 
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did you make sure you bought the correct pads?

they look like spring pads and on some the little dimple for the hand brake is higher/lower
 

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Discussion Starter · #447 ·
So I've still got the old Mistral sitting forlornly outside my barn and having problems with the 2.0 - which needs to be MoT'd soon - so just to make my life more complicated I bought new rear shocks for the 1.8 :huh:

I think he plan was to change to shocks on the 2.0 and put the shocks from that on the 1.8 but having bought new shocks I can feel that all the old ones are knackered :rolleyes:

So for £68.39 (total) I received 2 new shocks. They looks fine but no idea of the quality and never heard of the brand before

HiUGJ4q.jpg


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Napa?

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they do look correct for the Mondeo Mk3

SkQgpTn.jpg


look like made 2 years ago so mb clearance items
 

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Discussion Starter · #448 ·
So what did I do yesterday?

Well I cut out an access hole (in the seatpan) to change the fuel-pump. Why ?

Well I bought a spare long time ago and never changed it due to 1. the hassle involved and 2. the fact the car ran great after I rebuilt the engine but now that I'm having murderous issues with the 2.0 I thought I'd do a dry-run on this task on the 1.8.

I'm actually about to remove the tank on the 1.8 to access the thing I can't remember name of right now (plastic box with some sort of valve in it) so, again, why cut the panel out ? Well as you probably know the small hole that is in the seatpan is not concentric with the fuel pump so you kinda need to keep that in-situ to guess where to cut the hole.

So I could have marked this out then cut the hole with the tank down which would have made using a hacksaw blade easier and avoided any danger of drilling or cutting the fuel-tank hoses/vents by mistake but I was keen to get going and also wanted to know for future ref that it could be done with the tank on.

So how did I do it? Well I was armed with some blunt small drill bits (2.5mm) and not enough cutting-discs for my 'Dremel' plus trusty hacksaw blades.

Measuring the spare pump (couldn't find the screw-on ring) to be just under 14cm diameter I decided a 16cm hole would work and found the centre of the pump using the spare one then cut a 16cm diameter paper circle and scratched round the paint.

You need to drill a lot of holes on a circumference this big: approx 50cm so about 250 holes needed but there are gaps in between so it must be at least 100.

After that you can 'join the dots' with cutting discs but the ones I have wore out very quickly so I used a hacksaw blade where I could to save the discs. Predictably I ran out before I'd tackled the bit where the metal is right on top of the tank and you can't get much sawing action going. At the front there is a lot of room between the tank and seatpan so you can make quick work with hacksaw blade.

Anyway It's out now and today I plan to get the N/S/R leg off and separates the old shock from the knuckle. Also need to see what I have in the way of calipers to re-build and hopefully get the subframe off too. You can get the tank out with this on but it's an absolute nightmare

MYmekLk.jpg


yaay. water on the seatpan

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making a hole for access to fuel pump

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mini cutting-discs don't last long. you could use 10 easily

VmQHPUR.jpg


we now have access from above
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 ·
Got a little more done today....

Been down this road more times than I care to remember now and it's the usual trial of rusted fasteners but there's always something a little different so may as well post about it. Job was basically to get the N/S/R leg off.

I've also tried a new way of supporting the car as trying to get the rear of this car up to any decent height and have room to work under it rips my fkn knitting. I must have spent about a hundred hours over the years farting around with this and there is never any way to do it. I've moaned about it before but the subframe is so high up that there is no travel left on the jack and then there's the exhaust bracket right in the middle and if you jack on the body it caves in :angry:

Basically I had my jag jacked up for years under a home-made wooden beam which goes under the floor. I put this under the Mondeo today and it does give you some room as it's not under the are you want to work on. It means there's no chance of getting to the exhaust or handbrake cables but for today it was ok

  • the Nylock nuts on the drop links just would not come over the last few mm's of thread despite moving freely and lots of wire-brushing and penetrating fluid. I tried both and same thing happened but found this brand have a good flats on back for a 15mm spanner which did the trick on bottom one
  • I found that disconnecting all the arms actually helped get good access to other parts, including the lower balljoint of the drop-link
  • every time I have trouble with the 13mm-head caliper-to-knuckle bolts which usually need a 12mm single-hex hammered on them I re-use them as you can't seem to get new ones and this time I've paid the price as there is nothing left to to get a grip on.
  • partly because of the lost-cause caliper bolts I unbolted the cylinder from the carrier and this made it much easier to unscrew the cylinder from the brake-hose. I wanted to detach the hose from the hard line so as not to twist the hose but there's zero chance of this (despite it being new copper pipes) as the steel pipe-nuts have zero strength for a spanner and will just chew up
  • the 15mm-headed bolts for the subframe arms to knuckle were removed by hammering on a 14mm socket but one is stuck in the bush. No major issue but not had this before
  • the 18mm-headed bolt for the arm from body to knuckle had to have a 17mm single-hex hammered on to get any grip but that was only part of the struggle. There is absolutely no way to get any decent leverage as the bottom of the knuckle is so near to the ground so after trying an air-impact gun on it and trying to undo the bolt with a trolley-jack under the spanner/sliding t-bar I with no success I managed to get it by putting an axle stand tube on the T-bar and coming from above. This only worked as the arms from the subframe had been unbolted
  • there is a God: the 10mm-headed bolts that hold the top-mount to the body came out easily. When I did the O/S/R leg am sure it took nearly a day to get those out

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new method of supporting car - using beam made for XJ12

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yaay. rust

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top-mount bolts came out very easily

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rear arm-to-knuckle bot came out with one-size-under socket hammered on

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same for front one but bolt is stuck in bush

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bottom arm-to-knuckle bolt difficult to get leverage on. having subframe arms disconnected gave more room

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took a lot of time to get this out

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useful 15mm flats on back of balljoint-studs on drop-link

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unable to get these 13mm bolts off even with 12mm socket so knuckle removed c/w caliper-carrier

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this bolt won't budge either so will be using oxy-acetylene to loosen it

I had a hell of a time disconnecting the handbrake cable from the actuating-arm on the caliper. There seemed to be no slack whatsoever even with the arm actuated and the cable-nipple held with grips so I figured the cable is actually seized in the outer casing which explains why the handbrake failed MOT despite both arms moving freely. I just twisted the end of it as it was rusty. Am actually very pleased that the caliper itself seems to be springing back and forth nicely so that was some good news for a change.

Next visit I plan to get the oxy-acetylene gear out to remove the knuckle pinch-bolt and the caliper-carrier bolts.

After that I'll be removing the subframe, tank and plastic box thing (for inspection).

Then it'll be replacing shocks and making sure I have two functioning calipers with new pads and well-lubricated handbrake cables.

I really want to paint all the suspension bits as they look horrendous but that involves a lot of downtime while the parts are cleaned in my acid dip tank (diluted vinegar)
 

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Discussion Starter · #452 ·
So that's a bit more done....

subframe is off, charcoal-canister is out, knuckle separated from the shock and caliper-carrier also separated from knuckle :)

The subframe was quite straightforward: 15mm-head bolts but worn so hammered 14mm (single-hex) on and pulled with big bar. Good thing was I could do this from side of car so didn't need to lie under. The exhaust is still on but it slid out sideways after I uh-hooked the two rearmost rubbers from the exhaust hangers

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lovely

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one-size-under socket used

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bolts are nice and clean where it counts

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didn't think this would ever be back out

Next up was the charcoal cannister. What should be an easy job took most of the afternoon and I didn't actually think I'd get it off without breaking the plastic box. There are three 8mm-headed bolts/screws securing it to the body and two were pretty clean but the 3rd (least accessible) was a complete mess. In fact I thought it might actually be a different size as it was unrecognisable.

I threw everything at it starting with a 7mm spanner, then grips, then hitting with chisel, then files then every small socket or whatever but nothing would grip it. I had no cutting discs left on the Dremel and there wasn't enough room to get a hacksaw or anything in but then I found some sort of mini grinding discs for the Dremel and you couldn't get the right angle to get to each side of the head but tickling off a bit on opposite sides eventually allowed a 1/4" brake spanner on and we were away. quite pleased with that. Now that the thing is off there doesn't seem to be any way to open or clean it so was mb a waste of time but on the plus-side will make removing the tank easier as the hoses unclipped no probs and these gave me a lot of grief when I was trying to remove a tank before with the subframe and charcoal thing still on.

Am now having crazy ideas about painting the underside with epoxy mastic :whistling:

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subframe removed gives good access to filler-neck and charcoal thing

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not so good

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Dremel used to re-shape bolt head

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some of the arsenal thrown at it in the preceding hours

TBC

 

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Discussion Starter · #453 ·
yZkxQ8t.jpg


something flat to grip

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1/4" spanner was nice fit

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they always look so innocent once they're out

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the box and its mounting-bracket

Once that was out the way it was too late and dark to face the rest of tank etc so I got on the strut with the oxy-acetylene gear. I have to say it didn't seem to go as well as previous time. Mb I didn't put as much heat in but I still took a bit of leverage to crack the bond and I was worried about snapping the bolt but after that it came out easily with a lot of back and forth and penetrating fluid.

I finished off with the caliper-bracket to knuckle screws/bolts. Last time I basically destroyed the head to get these off iirc but today (after the success with the Dremel) I used a similar approach, tickling off enough on each side to get a 12mm socket hammered further down the head (they were 13mm originally) and hey-presto it worked. Got the knuckle off the shock also. There is quite a bit of spring in the casting and a little levering is enough to get the shock housing moving freely. Brake disc is stuck on so I just soaked that till next time

3DSqYLJ.jpg


XZjgceZ.jpg


pinch-bolt out and caliper-carrier bolts followed
 

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So I've now got the tank , trailing-arms c/w brackets off, rear section of exhaust & fuel-pump off.

Compared to the time I tackled this at a breakers yard (in much better weather with a better surface to work on) I'd say it's essential to have the subframe off. It makes removing the tank so much easier. I found that the filler neck can almost be removed with the tank still attached but as I was taking the tank off I didn't keep wiggling and pulling it.

There will be some duplication here as I have more info on the tank side if things on my other thread but to re-cap: you need to take the plastic liner out the wheelarch area and you can then see/reach the area where the metal neck meets the plastic fuel-filler assy.

There is only one self-tapper screw holding the neck to the plastic bit and you un-do that from inside the flap but there is also some sort of plastic hose/clip that needs to be disconnected to get the cap assy out the bodywork and this gives room to pull/wiggle the neck out the tank. The neck is deeply recessed in the tank and seems to be a tight fit in a rubber seal as well as the (fragile) nylon clip that holds the neck in the collar of the tank.

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releasing nylon clip from tank collar is not enough to separate them

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filler-neck connects to flap assy with one screw



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the screw is accessed from filler-cap area

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neck is screwed to body at 2 points (8mm-headed self-tapper)

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tank removed showing various hoses which can't be removed with tank in-situ

FHlhO1b.jpg


filler neck goes deep into tank. makes tank-removal very difficult if neck fixed to body
 

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I spend a lot of time moaning on here (about the weather and work-pressures) so it's great to be able to say how mild it is for November. Even tho it's damp and windy it's about 12 degrees - which is practically summer-heat in Scotland - and I'm not planning on working for a month. have set the email to auto-reply 'don't bother me for a month' and am enjoying the peace.

So today/tonight I set about dismantling the last few bits of the suspension parts. The bolts holding the trailing-arms to their bracket were horribly corroded but came apart ok so I tackled the even worse (?) ones holding the other arms to the subframe and they all came undone.

I've not tackled to ones holding the ARB brackets to the subframe as they are hidden on other side in box-section and need a good soak first.

I also got the drop-links disconnected from the ARB/strut.

A few observations about the fasteners:

the ones holding the rear arms to the subframe are special ones with in-built off-centre washers and they take an 188mm spanner on the nut and 19mm on the bolt but strangely the ones for the front arms (which don't have the built-in washers) have the 18mm nut but the bolt-head is 14mm. Seems a bit odd to have a 5mm difference in spanner-size for effectively the same application.

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trailing-arm to bracket fasteners very corroded but cleaned up ok to get tools on

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undoing nut

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threads very clean despite outward appearance

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shocking state of fasteners holding arms to subframe

J5JJG59.jpg

De4gkUv.jpg

again cleaned up ok

ghjPDrT.jpg

plenty leverage
 

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I encountered a slight problem when tackling the fasteners for the front arms as, on top of fact that the 19mm-headed bolts were now 14mm (less grip on the smaller ones), the (18mm) nuts were also inside the cage and I only have one 18mm socket (3/8" drive) so with all the adapters there was no room to get the big (3/4" drive) bar on the nut so I had to put that on the smaller-headed bolt. I think it's always best to undo a nut from a bolt rather than vice-versa so put half my trolley-jack handle on the sliding T-bar and it worked fine. Ironically I ordered a 1/2" drive 18mm socket yesterday as I've been getting away with using this deep 3/8" one for too long

0ASOdTO.jpg

bolts for rear arms have in-built eccentric washers

yoPGVi1.jpg

heads on bolts for the front arms are 14mm instead of the 19mm on bolts for the rear arms

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nuts are on the inside for front arms so no room for my deep socket

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swapped things round a little

YlCyhZ0.jpg

transpires front-arm to subframe bolt is same as front-arm to knuckle bolt

z7G7I7e.jpg

still to tackle ARB bracket bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
So you've seen the depressing rusted mess above

Well, believe it or not, I'm doing something about it. Mb a bit premature to post but I had a good day today after a few bad days and am keen to report on the progress..

I've got a 'rust electrolysis tub' set up and it's working a treat. I started of with a huge one, made from a loft water-tank, but nothing happened so I moved to a much smaller one and have a rear knuckle and caliper-bracket in it right now but yesterday did a bit of a rear arm and it worked great.

It will take a long time to do them all in the smaller tub so am hoping to get the big one up and running now that I know what I'm doing and I'll be able to get everything in including the subframe.

I bought Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic to paint it all but the underside of the body was crying out for some TLC so I used it there. It's not practical to sandblast the whole area and I don't expect this to last forever but I'm doing a decent job of it.

All the loose. thick, flaking rust has been taken off using a hemmer (works really well) then I wire-brushed it with a drill attachment and painted it. It didn't take that long so I want to do the wheel-tubs and the chassis rails. Everywhere else still has the rubbery coating still intact

4r0J5Ql.jpg


zwoDtZN.jpg


couple of views of the dirty/rusty N/S/R wheel-tub

OXTitcI.jpg


most of O/S/R cleaned and painted with epoxy mastic
 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Bit late and tired tonight to post a lot but just back from another session at barn. Didn't get any more of the body done but that's a couple of the removable bits stripped and painted. The electrolysis is working well.

I planned to paint the caliper c/w carrier in silver caliper paint that I have but couldn't find it so it got a quick coat of VHT primer and hopefully the caliper paint won't react with that.

The VHT stuff smelled like typical rattle-can paint (prob 1K acrylic) and I'm sure the caliper paint is some somrt of synthetic enamel so it should be ok but wouldn't work the other way round

GuifbnJ.jpg


electrolysis works well and costs nothing

U8OLIIq.jpg


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primed

Uu4OpPC.jpg


one knuckle de-rusted by electrolysis

Fd1uHlR.jpg


painted with epoxy mastic
 

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No more! That level of rust is giving me nightmares! I treated my rear arches similar to this in April, but they were nowhere near as rotten. Incredible what all that road salt does. Evil stuff.

Nice job cleaning up those calipers. The epoxy mastic has a relatively short shelf life. Couple of years at most. Make good use of your tins of it, mine went horrible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
No more! That level of rust is giving me nightmares! :biggrin:

Nice job cleaning up those calipers. The epoxy mastic has a relatively short shelf life. Couple of years at most. Make good use of your tins of it, mine went horrible.
yes I have my doubts about this mastic stuff. used it before (Rustbusters 121) and it seemed to offer zero rust-protection but since you hear so many glowing reports about it I'm trying again with the Bilt Hamber stuff. Probably be just as bad.

I think normal paint systems would work better tbh but thought I'd give this one more try. I'm also top-coating it with stone-chip which may help

X4JFnmV.jpg


stonechip over mastic
 
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