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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I really shouldn't start another Car Diary lol but hey I can't really post about the 2.0 on the Mistral thread so here goes...

I'll mb explain later but basically today I replaced a snapped rear spring on it and learned 2 things on the way:

  • you can't replace the rear-leg if the other wheel is on the ground as the anti-roll bar will be under too much tension to connect the drop-link on the dismantled side
  • best way to get spring back on (with my compressor) is to sit the strut on the spring-platform, not the (lower) bracket

eM7QoOf.jpg


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O/S/R leg removed to replace snapped spring

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1st attempt with strut-bracket facing inwards rod is too kinked to go through spring

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strut turned 90 degrees to see if any better

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same issue

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3rd attempt not really safe as unable to put on clamp to secure leg to compressor

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but it worked much better

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job done
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok. So anyone who has read my other thread in Car Diaries will be familiar with the flavour of it.

This car is pretty good so far but there are a few things doing my tits in about it and MOT time in November will be here before I know it so it's time to sort them.

I bought the car off a mate who only had it for a short time (looong story) and he'd treated it to a pair of used Continental tires up-front. He got wrong size (205/55/17 instead of 205/50/17) but that's not the problem. One is almost bald/illegal on the outer edge already and it's probably because there is a bad wobble on that side. Can't feel where it is coming from when I jacked car up and took wheel off but it may be due to a worn CV joint as that is clicking badly under full-lock .

Anyway I'm sure I read there are several different driveshafts used on the Mondeo and some are hollow and some aren't and it's all a bit of a pain so I'm hoping to just change to offending joint(s) as I have a used shaft that I bought about 5 years ago.

So today I took the joints off it. I've done this before on various cars and came across different types of retaining systems but this was the simple type where you can knock the joint off over a clip that sits on the shaft.

The inner spider is a better design than others I've seen as the needle-bearings on the 3 'wheels' are sealed so the things don't fall apart when you disturb them. You also don't need to remove the tripod from the shaft to get the wheels. They just lift off but it's prob best to keep them on the original bits due to the engineering practise of well you know what I mean with pistons and that

2nd thing doing my nut in is that the glass on the driver's mirror is sort of hanging off.

3rd thing is a leaking rim so am constantly pumping up the O/S/F tire - which is the one that's going bald.

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boot disconnected from outer CV joint shows no circlip above so...

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... simply knock joint off shaft with large hammer and block of hardwood

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disconnecting boot from inner joint it comes apart straight away

sEvWwO3.jpg


'wheels' lift off tripod journals and are also sealed so will not fall apart as with some types of spider bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
still not had time to do the repairs on the car (CV joint etc) but have 2 new front tyres (Landsail) and 2 rear shocks ordered.

However... am thinking am in for another few years of torture (like with the 1.8 Mistral) as the car had developed a crazy fault where in windy weather it really struggles then the idle goes nuts (needled jumping up and down) and it sorts itself if you turn the car off and re-start but in last few days this isn't working and it's becoming a pig to drive.

Have no idea what it could be -_-
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So what happened....

Well after reading, on a Mondeo Facebook page, that all roads lead to the TMAP sensor when there are idle issues I set about taking that off to clean it. One guy was waxing lyrical about how a new one transformed his car for only £22 but I'd cleaned the one on my 1.8 before so decided to just try that first, to see if it made a difference.

On the 1.8 I had the inlet manifold off so it was very easy to get the sensor off but this time it was in-situ so it's a case of feeling around between the manifold and radiator to establish the size of the screw-head then trying to get a tool in. The screw needs a T25 Torx and I found that if you move the loom out the way slightly you get better access. Also put a little tube on the right-angled Torx key for some leverage.

Anyway after a few goes it was clear the head was too rusted at the outset for it not to round-off when I started trying to remove it. So what next? There's no way you can get a drill or anything in without removing the radiator and stuff so I tried tapping the component from underneath and above thinking it might loosen the screw. Or you could even smash the component up and get a new one or, in my case, borrow the one from my 1.8 <_<

Turns out I didn't need to as the head broke off the screw which was lucky. I cleaned the thing with carb-cleaner and a paint brush. It was pretty filthy. The screw that had snapped was like a twig and there was nothing proud of the manifold to grip it so the only solution is to remove the manifold now and replace it or mb somehow extract the screw but there's no way that's happening as it means no car for a week or so.

I just stuck it back in the manifold and hopefully the O-ring-seal on the nose of the thing will hold it in.

So I started the car and the idle was distinctly higher (like 1000+ instead of 800+) which isn't necessarily good but said to me that the cleaning of the sensor had caused some change. I then set off and withing a mile or 2 same symptoms showed but probably worse and car actually cut out at a roundabout and you lose the steering which is pretty dangerous. It was night-time and quiet but I just had to have someone in a white Audi right up my arse peeping the horn while I re-started the car :mad:

So I drove the car again today for a stop-start short journey and it's much the same. I'm therefore glad I didn't wate money on a new sensor but none the wiser as to what the cause is.

Think the next things to check/clean will be the idle-air thing and the EGR. After that it'll be coil-pack and plug-leads and probably months of mental torture :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok. Where are we now?

Well I've been reading a few things saying the surging idle business can be caused by split PCV hose (which as most ppl know is practically impossible to replace with the manifold in-situ) so today I hoped to have a look/feel to see if the hose was split. This wasn't totally successful as I could only really see the top of the hose so I turned my attention to the Idle Air Control valve (IAC?)...

It was very easy to remove: two 8mm head screws, that you can reach with a longer socket. Disconnect multi-plug and that's it off - unlike the EGR valve, which has coolant hose connected to it.

Anyway it didn't look dirty at all. Just some soot on it and I thought it would need to be energised to see it working as I couldn't seem to move the plunger with my finger. I gave it a quick clean with carb-cleaner and noticed it moved. Had a quick look at the Haynes manual which advised you can connect it to a 12V source to check it's working.

Now I've been reading that in manuals for nearly 40 years but have never quite figured what these 12V sources are! Battery charger any good? Do you get a shock holding the red abd black leads of the charger when it's on? No idea!

The manual advises you connect +VE of your '12V source' to terminal 37 and -VE to 21 but there's nothing on the plastic plug on the IAC or the plug on the loom and the Haynes manual doesn't have a diagram for engine electrics so I figured the stripey one must be +VE and the black on -VE.

I put the IAC on ground with black charger-lead clipped to a nail resting on one pin and put a glove on and dangled the red lead with a nail on it over the other pin. Switched charger on and lowered nail. Heard it clicking and put everything away. Stuck IAC back on with original gasket and set off home.

Car felt much same as previous days and I expected nothing more but as the journey went on (approx 4 miles) it wasn't cutting out and fighting me like before.

Even as I reversed into cul-de-sac and parked up the idle was good and steady so it might actually be fixed. Being a complete pessimist I fully expect it to be running horrifically tomorrow but perhaps not. We shall see....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So where are we now? well after a day, possibly two, of better running the problem is back. I can't understand it. Am thinking perhaps the TMAP sensor is loose because of the absence of a screw to hold it tight to inlet-manifold but would that not affect it at all times? Car is running ok for a few miles then the problems start
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Me again. I can't even be bothered posting about the idle thing apart from to say that I had a passenger in the car (briefly) and he commented on how smooth it was running. There's a bit of a tale behind that but bottom-line is it didn't run smooth for long.

Anyway I've got me some new rear shocks. It seems that despite about 20 variations being shown in the (online) Ford parts catalogues there is now only one version available for all Mk3 saloons/hatchbacks. I gave up trying to understand the permutations so in a way this is a good thing. Makes life simpler. They were about £90 for the pair including P&P. Turns out they actually got shipped direct from Germany.

I think I bought them as it will tell me if the other ones I have are all duds. I'm still not sure how my 1.8 failed MOT on rear shocks. How do they test them?

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new Sachs rear shockers

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order details

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made in Turkey :huh:

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more numbers

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look identical to originals
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes that's what I want to do.

I have a few shocks off the car and they all feel the same but when I posted video clip to Facebook everyone's saying they should offer more resistance than that
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just popping in to ruminate...

the running of the car varies from ok to horrific with no rhyme or reason to the cause however I've recently noticed when I park-up there is a strange clinking noise coming from the exhaust like it's extremely hot and cooling rapidly.

I usually do short journeys and the car is never overheating so am thinking their might be a problem with the CAT or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
more ruminating....

the MOT has run out on the car so it's now time to fit all the bits (shocks, CV joint etc) buty am thinking it's probably a waste of time. The car is now smoking horrifically - just like the 1.8 :mad:

Honestly am thinking either me or these Mondeos are fkn cursed :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok. So here we go down same route as the 1.8 :rolleyes:

I've never even bothered plugging my OBD reader into this car as I did it so many times with the 1.8 and it basically tells you nothing. Doesn't tell you if there is a leak in the PCV, burnt valve, faulty coil-pack, clogged fuel-pump etc etc etc.

But fwiw I plugged in yesterday and it shows I'm too rich on bank 1. There is only one bank on this car (straight 4) so again none the wiser. I know the O2 sensors are called B1 so it may be related to them but the live data mode shows the values for these are fluctuating rapidly which usually means they are working fine so am not rushing out to buy new O2 sensors.

They will be over-fuelling (well the important one in the downpipe will be) due to some other problem I reckon. I did notice at startup the system showed OL (open loop) which happens when there is a problem but quickly changed to CL (closed loop) which is normal.

The car always runs well on initial startup. It's after a short time the murderous running problems kick in

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P0172. my only fault code

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OL at startup

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quickly changing to CL

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and fuel trims fluctuating which indicates O2 sensors are working

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scrolling down other values seem 'live'

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same at bottom. SHRTFT12 (CAT sensor) value should be fixed at 99.**%

So what's the plan? Well am thinking of swapping out every component from the ones on my 1.8 (which was running great) to see if any cause a change in behaviour on the 2.0. Am going to start at the rear and work towards the engine, which could take some time. So it'll be fuel-pump, fuel-filter etc first
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well this may be the end of the 2.0 saloon

I really liked this car and it was running like a dream in the cold weather but with recent warmer temps it has returned to driving like a lump of ****.

Tax runs out today so I ended up buying a 2.2 Edge hatchback (silver) for £600 with 8 months MOT so I'll no doubt be lying under that in November/December trying to get it thru the MOT.

That's if it even lasts that long. I never considered a diesel as they seem to be cursed with unfixable problems with injectors, double fuel pumps and EGRs but hey it means I can work tomorrow.

I am planning to at least investigate the possible cause of the poor-running on the 2.0 which I suspect is the PCV hose.

Now that I have another car I can take to 2.0 apart lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so it's time to give a bit of attention to the 2.0

Petrol prices have went up a lot since I last drove this and I noticed the road tax for the 2.0 petrol is nearly as high as the (early) 2.5 & 3.0 so it's all going to be expensive if I ever start using it again.

I've got my 2.2 MOTd and therefore have a workhorse but always fancied having a 2nd car to be kept nice and clean and also have its MOT due at a totally different time from the other.

So it's been sitting in a damp lock up for over a year now. The steering wheel is all mouldy, the tyres are flat and at least one spring has snapped.

I've got a new spring for the N/S/F and plan to fit that in the lock-up then drive or tow it to the barn to work on. First job will be the inlet-manifold removal to check the PCV system.

I've also got a pair of spare front knuckles so will put new bearings in them and tidy up the front end. Replace the CV joint referred to above etc.

One of the spare knuckles has already been stripped, de-rusted and painted. The other I've driven the rotor out c/w the bearing-race and am trying to press the rest of the bearing out.

No luck the first day so cleaned up the front face and soaked in ATF then tried again and up to what I reckon is almost 4 tons and it's not moving so have now drizzled the back with ATF and will try again



spare knuckle could be refurbished and used on 2.0


bearing doesn't want to move yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So a little more progress with the 2.0 today.

Not much but steps in right direction.

I went to the lock-up and put air in the 2 tires I can get to.

I'm starting to think all 4 springs have snapped. I'm sure the front 2 have anyway. When I get the N/S one(s) done I'll drag the car over a bit on the jack and check the O/S ones.

What a pita. I have 2 new springs for the front (petrol type). They seem to be getting very cheap now which reminds me of Mk2 Mondeo spares prices when I first got a Mk3, about 6 years ago.

Anyway you can see from the pics how mouldy the interior is.

I had another go on the knuckle today too. It was up to 10, 000 PSI and still not budging



N/S/F spring definitely snapped



N/S/R also looks very low



O/S of car is very close to wall so it's hard to check that side


but O/SF also looks very low


no obvious break on O/S/F spring



mouldy interior

So on way home today I dropped off a trolley-jack, axle-stand and breaker-bar c/w 32mm socket so I can get the driveshaft nut off and put N/S/F of car on axle-stand to get the strut off and replace spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I got the car up in the air. Well the N/S up in the air. I've actually found the easiest way to now jack these up is just do the front, under the wishbone rear and the back also comes up. Then you can get axle-stands in, front and back, for safety.

I just popped the wheel-trim off, undid the driveshaft nut (32mm) with breaker-bar and left it at that.

Will go back with 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, large Torx (T55?), etc to undo all the other fasteners soon.

The front spring is utterly fkd. Never seen one as bad. The top-mount is just flapping about on its own accord 😳. What the hell would happen if that broke when you were doing 70mph, or more?

I also found the N/S/R spring is broken

On the plus-side the car seems really solid underneath. I've never really looked at it as only drove it for a year or so.

I also got the front bearing out on the spare knuckle. I had the gauge up the the red-line and was standing on the lever to compress it but it wasn't budging. I would let it go then repeat the operation and eventually it let go with a load crack. I use large washers on the back of the bearing to try to get the pressure as near the edge of the casing as possible but you can't get right over it due to the shoulder on the knuckle that the bearing sits against.

The first time I did one I made up what I call my 'bar of soap'. It is just a thick piece of metal that I filed to fit in the rear aperture of the knuckle but it doesn't cover the whole area of the bearing so I added the washers to the mix.

When the bearing starts to come out you need something for it to disappear into and I have some metal plates with a bearing-sized hole in them for this but I can't find them right now so it's a case of trying to make sure the front of the knuckle is resting on something but not blocking the exit of the bearing. Bit of a hassle as you can't see under it easily.

I also got my other front spring. I bought two as I know my 1.8 also has a fucking broken front spring but both the recently purchased ones will be going on the 2.0 I reckon :rolleyes:



another Mondeo spring. £8.99 inc P&P


info on box looks correct


and data on spring matches


N/S/F spring dangerously broken


N/S/R spring also broken


front knuckle finally let go of bearing


washers and 'bar of soap' used to press on bearing


aperture on rear of knuckle is smaller than diameter of bearing so washers aren't quite full-size
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rear Sachs spring had 74325 T0884217 stamped on,are they all same make just with different brand boxes.


Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
That's very interesting Mondy Zetecs

I've no idea where or how these things are produced but there are so many different brands selling them that it's unlikely they all have their own factory for making springs for hundreds of different cars so, perhaps, there are a few manufacturers who supply them and they get boxed-up in each company's own packaging
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well I got the N/S/F strut off yesterday.

What a mess 😳

However, amazingly, I didn't need to wrestle with any of the fasteners :D

All of them undone no probs including the pinch-bolt, caliper-carrier bolts and the drop-link nut.

I've done this job too many times and every time have had to hammer on undersize sockets etc to get the things out. Have had to use oxy-acetylene to get snapped pinch-bolts out and use flats on back of drop-link ball-joint when the 5mm Allen hole rounds.

I did struggle with getting the bottom ball-joint out the knuckle despite me constantly saying 'the only way to get them out is by pushing the strut in to keep the pin upright'

Well I had the pin coming down visibly with gentle levering but it wouldn't come out all the way. After a lot of heavy levering still nothing.

So I pushed the strut inwards by hand and it came out no probs.

The reason i didn't do it earlier is because I thought the pin did look like it way coming down upright so assumed corrosion was the problem.


strut removed from car. now to fit new spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So yeah. The strut is off car and after that was the strip-down/examination.

As I said above none of the fasteners put up a fight. Perhaps this is because I doused them in ATF a day or so before doing the work. I don't know tbh.

I didn't fully remove the pinch-bolt when the strut was on as I felt the end of bolt could be cleaned up better when I could see it and yes it came out very easily once the threads were cleaned.

Also absolutely no banging needed to get the knuckle off the shock. The knuckles are made of cast-steel and there is a surprising amount of 'spring' in them. So if you wedge a screwdriver or similar in the gap a back the shock will pull out by hand.

The spring is broken in 2 places as you can see and most of it just lifted off by hand. I laid the new one out next to it and they are the same which is good.

The top mount is pretty damaged. Not sure if this was caused by the broken spring. I don't remember nay issues with it when I was driving the car and most of the ball-bearings fell out where it was parked so am guessing all the damage was done when the spring broke. I'll probably just buy a new one but have to remind myself that right now I'm only trying to het the car in a towable/drivable state to get it down to barn and take the inlet-manifold off the check the PCV hose.

I found a good way to get the nut of the shock-absorber rod.

These things are very tight and I've twisted (6mm) Allen keys before trying to undo the nut. I've found the nut is actually more bonded to the plate below it so if you can find a way of holding the mount firn till you crack the nut it works.

I did it with big sliding grips once before but this time I held the mount with a ring-spanner bearing against two of the studs and a scaffold pole on the spanner. I then used a breaker-bar and socket on the nut. There was a loud crack after quite a bit of force then the nut spun off pretty easily.


what a mess. spring lifted off without any tools etc


top coil still under damaged top-mount


one way of loosening top-nut


damaged top-mount


most of ball-bearings fell out


a few found in gravel outside barn


bump-stop assy seems ok


broken spring with new one


pinch-bolt loosened when strut on car



wedging slot on knuckle allows shock to be pulled out easily



balljoint bolt and caliper-carrier bolts fine to re-use


A long time ago I bought used front and rear struts. I think the idea was to re-furbish knuckles for all four corners of the car so, come MOT-time, I'd be able to just swap them out and always have a good unit ready for each corner. Or mb I was planning on selling refurbished knuckles (c/w new bearing etc) on Ebay.

Whatever the case it was always good value for money as you'd get a caliper, spring and possibly re-useable shocker all in one go.

Anyway I found the front caliper from one of these purchases and decided to get that sorted to use on either the 2.0 or my daily-driver 2.2.

The front calipers don't seem to ever give any trouble like the rears and, tbf, with the rears it's actually the handbrake mechanism, rather than the hydraulic side, that gives the trouble.

So, in 6 years or so, or driving Mondeos I've only ever fitted one seal-kit to a front caliper and I did it wrong but still had no trouble with it.

This was on my 1.8 Mistral thread and basically I could fit the boot properly and learned (from the seller) that the old one actually has a metal casing on it that needs to be removed from the caliper (obviously) before fitting the new one. I learned that after reassembling the car and never took it back off to investigate. So, now, with this spare one at my leisure I could try to do it right It's very hard to distinguish the rusty metal casing from the rusty caliper but with a bit scraping I could see the interface and simply struck it inwards with a sharp chisel and this was enough to pop it out whole with no damage to the machined area on the caliper.

Prior to that I had to get the piston out and you will hear all sort of crazy ways to do this such as welding stuff onto the piston and using grease-guns. I have recommended this before, as it does work, but it's quite messy.

There is the compressed-air approach too but the problem here is usually how to securely connect the air-line to the caliper.

I have a little dusting-gun and the spare caliper had an old cut hose on it. I found the nozzle of the duster was a very tight fit in the hose so fully expecting it not to work I managed to force the nozzle into the hose, gave it a puff of ait and out popped the piston :)(y)

So the next step obviously is to de-rust it and paint it, fit new seals and use it for whatever car needs it most. One kinds strange thing is the the silver caliper paint (brush-on) that I've bought from Halfords over the years seems to be discontinued so this time round they'll need to be red or blue or yellow :unsure:


could caliper piston be popped out with air-duster stuck in brake-hose...


nozzle is a tight fit in hose but does go


piston popped out easily



piston and original seal. always wondered what these coloured stripes signify


piston-boot has metal casing which is usually rusted to caliper body


ripe for refurb
 
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