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547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok, so I'm now starting a 3rd car diary 馃お

even I know I don't need 3 Mondeos but I've often thought 2 would be good: one to get used and abused for work and one to be lovely and clean and polished for those rare days when I'm not working.

anyway I had no intentions of buying a diesel as I believe it equates to a life of misery with injector troubles, black smoke and fuel pump issues

However I desperately needed a new Mondeo and there seemed to be several 2.0 diesels for sale at around 拢600 - all at once. I contacted the sellers and got vague responses and was getting desperate when I saw a 2.2 advertised locally for 拢695.

Long story short I went and bought it. The guy said he only wanted 拢600 for it :D and when I got home the two other guys, both called Ian - with 2.0s, had messaged me saying 'car ready'.

the 2.2 seems to be the stuff of legends: pulls like a train, does 70mpg etc and I have to say I've looked for them on Ebay loads of times but never seemed to see one in my price range - which is low - so it's kinda weird to have got one.

It's the Edge model which I don't like cos of the alloys, it's silver which I'm not sure about for a workhorse and it's done 135000 miles (roughly). It's also the hatch which isn't great as I always have ladders on the car which means you can't open the hatch.

I've only driven it for about an hour and it feels very agricultural on start-up but it does get better with speed.

Going on a long run on Friday which will be a good test of its abilities, assuming I make it there and back 馃槸


latest Mondeo


my 1st Mondeo behind it (1.8 petrol hatch)

Super Moderator
31,043 Posts
Bought my MK4.5 in 2018 and nobody appeared to want my old 2.2 Ghia Estate.

I stuck it in my mums garage and my nephew had it a few months later, 2 years of

neglect and its still running but needs some work now.

Finding someone who doesnt immediately say its not worth fixing and it needs a

DMF/Clutch when they could simply listen and hear the clutch master squeaking

and sounding nasty.

Maybe if he actually put some brake fluid in it? Level has been low for a long time

and he just ignored it.

Or the coolant expansion tank covered in oil, i was WTF!!! his reaction told me that

he has probably never opened the bonnet since getting it and covers 20k+ a year

in it.

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I've had the car a couple of weeks now and went on that 200 mile run last Friday. Was amazed to get over 200miles on 拢20 of diesel B)

But now the problems are starting. Got in it last night and it wouldn't start. After more than 10 goes it spluttered into life and did it again on way home and this morning, but to a lesser extent.

Looks like dirty black smoke belching out the back until it runs then that clears.

No idea what to do about it and thinking mb just cut my losses and get rid of it while it still has MOT <_<

Super Moderator
31,043 Posts
Nephew is selling my old car :D

Although Scotlands a long way off and it needs a clutch master cylinder

but otherwise runs well, he commuted from Birmingham to Milton Keynes daily.

dont listen to me, you&#39;ll have horsepower and
3,397 Posts
I'd disconnect the small vacuum line on top of the egr valve and try starting it... if it starts fine then remove and clean or replace the egr valve. Nice easy job
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the tip.

I nearly missed work today as it just would not catch and the smoke in the street was a nightmare! similar problem on way home (8 hours later). Customer's garden like a smokescreen :unsure: :whistling:

I read somewhere it might be a leaky injector so there is lots of unburnt fuel in the cylinder. The smoke is also white (not dirty as I said originally) and this points to unburnt fuel.

Car ran like a dream once it (eventually) started and I did 2 other journeys tonight with no issues but am expecting severe problems in the morning :(

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so after a couple of weeks of nearly being stranded every time I left the car unused for more than a few hours it's now starting no probs but have got a flashing coil light on dash. When this is on the car runs utter $%拢* <_<

I'm sort of learning to live with it but discovered the other night that if you rev the nuts off it till you hear the turbo whistle it will run as normal.

It's not easy to get this to happen but when you hear the pleasing sound then pull off it's great but you'll be back to square-one if you stop the car and have to go again.

For this reason I'm thinking it's not glow-plugs or injectors or even EGR.

Thinking it might be a clogged/dirty turbo.

Have seen various arguments online about drilling/tapping the turbo housing then squirting Mr Muscle oven-cleaner into the body but.

All a bit of a nightmare tbh. I need daily transport not another project :angry:

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'd disconnect the small vacuum line on top of the egr valve and try starting it... if it starts fine then remove and clean or replace the egr valve. Nice easy job
I had the bonnet open tonight actually and can't believe how easy to access the EGR is. Years ago I helped my mate clean the one on his Mk6 Transit. it was a nightmare to get out and afaik the same engine was used in them (his was a 2.0) but the engine is right up against the front panel iirc.

The EGR on the Duratecs is quite hard to reach and you need to disconnect a coolant hose. I don't remember having to do that on the Duratorq...

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Small update....

I am dying to remove the turbo and clean it, after seeing a video of this on YouTube, but need the car daily for work so it'll need to wait.

However I saw a video today where a guy just disconnected the arm from the sensor to the turbo vanes (I think) and it over-rides the coil-light.

I couldn't really see the sense in this as you aren't getting rid of the problem just tricking the ECO into thinking there is no problem (ie stiffness in turbo vanes) but thought I'd give it a try..

What a difference. It's not quite back to what it was like the first week I got it but the light is off permanently and I can accelerate and drive at normal speeds again. can also hear the turbo whistling (cooing?) which is great but I'm still a bit wary of this 'magic' fix <_<

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just popping in to say that's over a week since the 'fix' and 2 long journeys under its belt.

I seem to be back to almost 200 miles for 拢20 fuel but that's a bit skewed as I decided to use Ultimate Diesel for 1st time for the long run and you don't get as much of that for your 拢20. Am sure the last time I did the long journey I got a bit more than 200 miles for my 拢20.

Anyway the car is definitely running better, for almost no work.

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now here's a weird one. Recently been having a bit of the old problems back. Nothing like as bad as before and car actually starts and idles fine but stutters when pulling away or trying to accelerate.

I learned to dip the clutch a shade while increasing the throttle to get past this. Not ideal.

Anyway a few times I've put Ultimate Diesel in, thinking it would make car run better, but as soon as I put the normal stuff in the problem goes away.

Is it possible the better fuel could be alien to the ECU and cause issues or is it just random?

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are your other mondeo's of the road fella.??

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
Hey sorry for late reply but yes they are both off the road.

However... I just bought a towing A-Frame and will be shifting the 1.8 to a lock-up which houses the 2.0 then bringing the 2.0 down to the barn to sort its cutting out problem.

Not sure if you're up-to-date on all that but basically I didn't have time to investigate the problem on the 2.0 (which was a very nice car) and bought the 2.2 and haven't seen the 2.0 since.

The 1.8 needs a lot more work so it's last in the queue

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So why did I pop in?

Well the 2.2 has been running great. I actually did a 500 mile round-trip in it (EK to Ullapool) and it didn't miss a beat. It's also not using any oil. I've been wanting to add some fresh stuff for months but the level won't drop.

I'm here because I'm fitting my tow-bar to the 2.2 (so I can tow the other two back & forth - as explained above)

I thought this would be a nightmare due to the fancier rear bumper but as with the Mistral the bottom bit actually comes off. Basically the bumpers are the same but the detachable lower-trims differ. I thought I'd need to remove the whole bumper o_O

Getting the valance off isn't that hard but in the winter outside when everything is covered in muck and you can't undo the screws makes it seem harder.

On my 1.8 where the valance meets the wheel-arch plastics was broken so you didn't really need to undo the rusty self-tapper. I didn't want to break the plastic on the 2.2 and there was no way the screw was coming out but I found it is actually clipped onto the wheel-arch plastic so you can leave the screw undisturbed (for now) and simply prise the clip off.

After that it's just a case of carefully opening up the slots in the bumper main to allow the wedge projections from the lower trim to come out. They vary in shape and size as you work back to the middle of the bumper but principal is the same.

You also need to remove the weird 10mm 'bottle-top' nuts from the stubs on the underside of the boot-floor. There are 4 and they hold the flap of the trim to the underside of car. If you live near me your nuts will be corroded to fk and no spanner or pliers will fit them. I found they could be carefully levered off.

One last point is that you will be best starting the levering at the corners but the first wedge will put up a fight as there is a tab on the outer edge of it that sits under the bumper main. To get things moving you need to lever the valance down whilst prising the wedge out of the slot. The others are easier.

this flap needs to be released by removing 'bottle-top' nuts

new ones required

there is a self-tapper screw under all this crud. removing them (one each side) will separate bumper-lower from wheelarch plastic

the clips c/w screw look like this from behind

picture not clear but you can leave screw in and prise clip off black plastic instead

joint between bumper main and lower trim. note wedge-shaped tabs

prise slot open while pushing tabs out

this tab will prevent trim from being separated from bumper so push down whilst pushing out

once the corners are out it gets easier to unclip the valance

tabs differ in shape as you go round bumper

valance off with no damage


547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so once the valance was off I needed to set about finding all the components of the towbar.

really pisses me off that I've chemically-stripped the rust off this twice and painted it with epoxy mastic and it still rusted in 5 minutes :mad: but you may see the brackets are kinda black & shiny

Well I stripped them with electrolysis and they have a different type of epoxy on them now plus black 2K gloss.

I'm also pissed off with that as it doesn't seem very durable and is scratching off easily.

I'm thinking I may be at fault for not sanding the epoxy before putting the top-coat on but fk it. we live and learn

so as well as the bar and brackets then there is the socket, cable, tow-hitch, plate that socket goes on and all the fasteners.

I'll come to the electrics later but could I find all the fasteners or the tow-hitch?

Could I fk :confused:

I eventually discovered 3 of them were pressed into service mounting my Jag V12 block to an engine stand but determined to get the basic assembly on I persevered with what I had.

There are basically 4 long screws/bolts (M10 x 100mm) which hold the brackets onto the sides of the chassis-rails then there are 4 bolts (M12 x 40ish) which bolt the towbar to its brackets with the bumper-bar & bodywork sandwiched in-between. Only 2 of these bolts go thru the bumper/bodywork.

I remember having trouble getting all of the M12 thru their holes on the 1.8 and just left one (or two) out but this time delved a bit deeper.

The bumper bar is screwed to the bodywork with 4 M6 screws each side and there is a little wiggle-room so I found that if you loosen them all (2 from underneath and 2 from boot) you can get the holes to align better (y)

So with that done and about half the fasteners in I called it a day and went home to order some new stainless ones and wire-up the socket.

I procured a bit of 7-core cable from the Gaffer's trailer (none of the lights on it work) and that is now wired to the socket. I still need to solder the cable into the car's loom.

The fasteners arrived today.

Hope to finish it off at weekend

towbar components ready to fit

loosening these 4 fasteners allows the alignment of the bumper-bar and bodywork to be tweaked

before adjusting the M12 towbar bolt was squint

after tweaking M12 bolt goes thru horizontally

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok so I got the new fasteners on today, found the tow-hitch (but only one of the M16 bolts that attach it to the towbar :unsure: ), threaded the cable into the boot and put the tow-hitch/socket/plate on.

The last time I wired one into a Mondeo I did the connections to the main loom at the side of the boot area but that means taking the moulded carpet panel out which means removing the support for the parcel-shelf which, iirc, means removing the C-pillar trim :rolleyes:

So this time I'm going to do it where the loom comes round the corner, at the light-cluster.

This may cause problems getting the trim back on but I'll see how it goes. 馃え

Another difference with last time is that the rubber grommet/plug in the N/S/R of the boot has wiring going thru it already. It's for the parking-sensors and my 1.8 Mistral didn't have them.

I just made another hole in the plug to let the towbar cable in.

So once you are ready to splice in the wire you need to find the correct part of the loom. Looking down on it I could initially only see black (earth) wires but the coloured ones are under them.

Ironically looking at the pics I took today the coloured ones are very clear in a pic I took from under the car.

Anyway I'm not sure where I left my soldering-iron and it was getting dark and I was hungry so binned it for the day.

Mb get back to it tomorrow 馃

new stainless-steel fasteners for 拢13.49 posted

long ones go thru chassis-rails

short ones connect towbar to brackets. red-dotted one also passes thru bodywork and bumper-bar

tow-hitch/plate/socket/cable mounted on towbar

7-core cable connected to socket needs to be joined to car's loom

LHS trim off reveals area where towbar cable can come in and be connected to loom

with plug removed cable can be fed into boot (note coloured wires in loom)

2nd hole made in plug for towbar cable

plug back in place on body

main loom to rear lights appears to be all blacks

some tape removed reveals 2 separate branches

coloured wires in bigger branch separated from the black ones

connections to be made

connections made behind boot side-panel last time

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So a little update on the towbar/A-frame thing.

I got all the new bolts fitted but didn't bother fixing the 'permanently on sidelight' thing as I was towing it at night so it needed to be on anyway.

Let's just say it was carnage but I've established where I went wrong and now want to try towing the 2.0 petrol saloon down to the barn.

The Mistral is safely tucked-up in a lock-up for now.

The problem I'm expecting with the 2.0, being a Ghia X, is it has the self-levelling stuff for the headlights on the N/S/F wishbone which brings me back to the carnage....

I initially put the A-frame arms under the wishbones and threw the chain over the top of the wishbone then fully tightened it.

I pulled the Mistral out the barn and swept round the my right. Everything seemed ok.

Thing is I needed to do a full 180 so started the manoeuvre in a wet muddy yard in the dark and almost immediately heard horrible sounds when I tried to reverse.

Looking under the car I could see the arms and chains had moved back off the wishbone - obviously!

So I then wrapped the chain twice round the wishbone thinking that would lock the arms to them. The arms have an upright bar at the end (like an L-shape basically) and I assumed this helped pull the car along and the wrapped chains would prevent the arms moving back off the wishbones when reversing.

So all set to go the following night I set off (with handbrake still on due to being stressed out). Flew up the steep hill from the barn in 2nd gear and when I got about mile to top on flat ground stopped to check all was well before heading out on to the main roads for the next 3 miles.

It was at this point I realised I'd had my handbrake on so the rest of journey was almost relaxing as I went along at a reasonable pace knowing my hazard board was working and being a Sunday evening the roads weren't too busy.

I got almost to the lock-ups where I had to take a sharp right turn followed almost immediately by a sharp left when I started to hear the most horrific banging and squealing.

I drove a little further and there were more horrible sounds and I jumped out o see one of the tyres flat or burst. At this point I abandoned the idea of getting it into the lock up which was right next to me as I might get stuck and cause an obstruction so I decided to go round the back of the lock-ups a couple of hundred feet and park it there for the time being.

This involved another 2 full right turns and before I'd even done the 2nd the flat tyre actually came clean off the rim :cry::cry:

I really didn't know what to do and felt a complete idiot and failure 馃槱馃槱馃槱

Luckily I'd packed a trolley-jack in the boot and I quickly put the space-saver wheel from the 2.2 onto the Mistral and pushed it into a parking space by hand and stuck the A-frame etc in my lock-up and went home to lick my wounds.

I was thinking best just scrap it tomorrow.

The next evening after work I went back to the lock-ups and it was still there unvandalised (it's a rough area) with no ticket from Police, or wheelclamp. I went home for dinner to consider my next move

About 1.30am I decided to force myself back out into the cold night and see if I could push it round to the lock-up or mb try the A-frame again.

Within a few minutes I had it round the double left turn and trundling it along to the lock-up when suddenly a figure in pyjamas appeared. 馃槃

It was a young guy who'd been watching out his window and he offered to help push.

This was really helpful as I had to make a right-angled right turn up a gentle slope to get it in the lock-up.

I offered him a tenner for his trouble but he wouldn't take it and I was soon back home feeling much better.

Oh and when I got back in the 2.2 I realised I didn't have my wallet with me anyway 馃ぅ馃檮馃き

I've since established online that the upright part of the A-frame arms should actually sit in front of the wishbones. So in practise only the chains are pulling on the car. When you reverse I guess it makes sense as the uprights prevent the arms from disappearing back under the car 馃し鈥嶁檪锔

I still don't fully understand how the arms went back with the chains wrapped around the wishbone. I guess they just went round like a rope would on a pulley. Also don't understand how I lost a tyre ffs 馃あ

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So that's the Edge off the road. Tax ran out end of Feb and am not saying when the MOT ran out but it's parked-up, I'm taking a month or two off to forget I need to work and sort out projects I've had for decades.

Anyway, yesterday, I had to move the Edge out the barn to give me room to do something else and next minute I had the exhaust off. Well that's an exaggeration - 2 hours later I had it off. Most of the time wasted was trying to get the car off the deck. Prob apples to all 'modern' vehicles' but how the fuck do you jack these things up!?

I've ranted before about trying to get the rear up and, yes, some other arsehole has been there before me and bent the N/S/R track-control arm by jacking the car on that 馃槪 but I got the rear up by just reversing it on to ramp. There's still not a lot of room tbh altho having the bottom trim off the bumper (for the towbar) does help.

Don't know if I explained before but back in the summer (remember those) the back-box fell off and I slung it in the boot and kept it. Car ran great after that lol.

So I knew I needed to sort that prior to MOT.

Than, coming back from a wedding (200 mile journey in winter in dark on smallish roads) the exhaust fell off at the back and I tied it back on to get me home but could see (especially with the valance off) that it was sitting at a weird angle. I wondered it perhaps that's why the back-box fell off. Mb fitted badly and under a lot of strain. So that was another thing to stress about.

Also stressing about nightmare of getting fasteners disconnected as you go fwd to CAT etc. Had huge problems with this on the 1.8 petrol before :rolleyes::rolleyes:

When I was under disconnecting my jubilee-clip lash-up I noticed there was a handing joint round about in line with back wheel so I thought 'cool, just need a back box really' but as soon as my 'repair' was off the whole exhaust pipe sort of fell down despite still having rubbers connected.

Turns out it was only hanging by a thread from the flexi - which explains the weird angle.

I therefore just pulled the whole thing back out from the rear after some wiggling to tear the last remnants of the flexi.

When an exhaust is out in the yard it's (usually) a breeze to separate the section by just shaking them and this came apart no probs including the bolts holding the pipe's flange to the flexi's flange.

The pipe will tend to rotate as soon as you try to pull on any spanner so I jammed the bend of the pipe under the ramp and spannered away.

Bolt turned easy but kept turning. I then discovered that the flange didn't have captive-nuts in it so finished off with two sockets.

I then decided to get the remains of the flexi off despite darkness falling and that's where the fun began. The Edge must have a deeper bumper than the Mistral and there was no way I could get it on the ramps without wrecking the front bumper so I thought I'd be clever and get the front wheels up onto a scaffold board then go up the ramps. Problem was it's a very thick scaffold board and the car wouldn't go up and the board ended up wedged between the wheels and the fucking bumper 馃槪馃槪

So it was out with the jack and raised the car, pulled the board out, praised the Lord no damage then decided 'fuck it I'll just raise it with the jack' despite the fact that means there's nowhere to put a fucking axle-stand as the only place you can jack them is where you want a stand to go 馃槱

So what I do is jack it up and stick a ramp (facing wrong way) under the wheel.

There was then just enough room to crawl under the car and get to the flexi's nuts.

Amazingly these weren't seized or anything and with a 14mm socket on T-bar had them off pretty quick.

I was pleased the car still started with no exhaust and once I'd done the job I set out to do originally got the Edge tucked back into the barn.

So looking at what I've got I just need a new flexi (can get them for under 拢40 posted) and a new back section.

I could prob weld the back-box onto its pipe again but there is someone on Ebay selling the identical one for 拢25 :) + 拢17.95 postage :confused:

While the exhaust is off it's ideal time to replace the handbrake cables. I don't know if these actually need done but, like every other Mondeo Mk3, the handbrake is fkd. Why do these things never work for more than 5 minutes. The clips that hold them to the control-arms are always flapping in the breeze doing fk all!!

Then it'll be rear calipers, pads, discs and prob pads and discs up front.

Then probably a broken spring and some ball joints.

Then it'll fail on emissions, no doubt. 馃槱

No wonder I'm sticking my head in the sand and cycling around as if I'm at school again 馃槒

bodge repair to get me home after wedding

handy joint in pipe means may only need to replace back section

but why has exhaust pipe been hanging at weird angle?

turns out exhaust barely connected to flexi up front

pipe pulled out from under car c/w flexi-flange

bend in pipe can be jammed under something to prevent it rotating when undoing fasteners

access to one bolt hindered by exhaust hanger

separating flexi-flange from main pipe (15mm bolt & 17mm nut)

joints are very easy to separate when system is off car

need to crawl under car to remove flexi

14mm nuts for flexi came off easily

weld back on or replace back-box

new flexi needed

ID on Klarius back-box

547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So one good thing about the exhaust being off is it makes servicing the handbrake cables a cinch

I haven't dared look under this car before now so have no idea what state the brakes etc are in and was fully expecting the worst.

First thing to do was remove the heat-shields and as can be guaranteed they were half hanging off anyway due to enlarged holes and the bits which weren't had hideously rusted fasteners on crusty studs. I did notice that the fasteners on this (newer) Mk3 are a bit different to the ones on my older cars. Still rusted to fk tho.

I think I'd already decided to remove the cables without even messing around at the caliper ends (to see if they were moving) so I just headed for the nicely-exposed yoke to disconnect the clean ends.

With a few turns of the (16mm) nut the N/S cable came out but I had to wind the nut right to the end of the stud to get the O/S one slack enough to release it.

The cables looked hideous and unclipping them naturally broke a couple or 3 of the white plastic clips that hold them to the body. Super

With the cables free from the car I found that the arms (on the calipers) were springing back and forward fine which is better news than them being stuck solid.

One of the cables was ok. IE the inner wire moved freely inside the outer but the other was rusted solid. The front end was free to move but it pulled the broken half of the outer cable back and forwards with it.

The front ends of the outer cables don't actually pull out of the body easily even when the inners are loose. You need to depress the plastic bits to allow them to slip out. Easy to say but try doing that in the middle of a winter's night witht he exhaust still on and the heatshield half ripped to the side

So 2 cables needed.

I did have 2 decent ones from a breaker's yard but looking back on my 1.8 thread I put them on that for its last MOT and it still failed on the handbrake so God knows what the fk was wrong there and hopefully I won't be wasting my time again here.

So I've ordered new ones at 拢31.99 all-in. I've also got a good used exhaust flexi on its way (拢5 + 拢8 P&P).

Next thing to do was whip the wheels off and check the pads etc.

There's basically nothing left of the pads but I do have brand-new Ferodo ones. Thing is they are SL ones which seem to be like an upgrade. I didn't know this when I bought them but can't see it being a problem.

Also the N/S wheel seemed to be dragging/binding a little so will need to replace at least one caliper. I have the later calipers on this so none of the early type I have (with seal kits) are worth trying on unless I do both. Someone told me you can interchange them as long as carrier is swapped at same time but I'm worried with 2 different types might fail MOT on braking imbalance.

As I mentioned before the control arms are badly bent due to some idiot jacking car there so they'll need to come off for replacement or straightening. This is to get them off you need to remove the front bracket from the body and the bolts are usually in a terrible state. MOT guys prob won't know they are bent so may just leave it ands live with the bad tyre-wear or whatever it causes.

The worst thing I found is the fuel supply & return pipes are hideously corroded. There is obviously no off-the-shelf solution to this so it's a couple of days round breakers yards looking for better ones or two weeks' effort buying/trying copper pipe and some sort of way to connect the quick-couple joint. Strangely I noticed only one line has this. I'm sure on the petrols there were two.

The brake discs are also toast so will need a couple of them too

bent control arms

they are always like this

heatshield off

loads of material left on this for reassembly

fasteners for the heatshields different from ones on earlier cars

loads of room to work on handbrake cables (front) with exhaust and shields off

can't remember petrol models having this soft material ahead of the heatshield

if your cables are hanging like this it's safe to say there's a more serious issue

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