Ford Automobiles Forum banner
41 - 59 of 59 Posts

·
I Love Diesel
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
I'm not sure "special" suspension necessarily means lowered. Maybe it does, but according to Etis my 2.2 TDCi Tit X had special suspension - I wouldn't have said it was lowered, but it was a real boneshaker.

P.S. I salute you for the time and effort you put into your cars (and documenting it). How do you find the time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
P.S. I salute you for the time and effort you put into your cars (and documenting it). How do you find the time?
Thanks. 👍👍

And to answer your question it's probably cos I have no kids or wife and have taken 10 weeks off work 😌

Well that's not strictly true as my weeks off have been interrupted by too many days working for my pal 2 or 3 times a week .

But yeah I have no commitments other than work and if I didn't have to work might finish some of my projects 😏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I'm not sure "special" suspension necessarily means lowered. Maybe it does, but according to Etis my 2.2 TDCi Tit X had special suspension - I wouldn't have said it was lowered, but it was a real boneshaker.
That's a good point as the guy who sold me the springs showed me a before and after pic of his car and it was definitely lower after the above springs weren't on it and the new ones were only 30mm drop

so

it follows the orange/orange/violet ones aren't shorter. They might be thicker or have a different amount of turns. Beyond that how special can a spring be? 😋
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
So next chunk of this installment will be more about the spring(s). Last word, for now - promise 😇

So the 2nd spring was on and I was a bit miffed to find the new, Sachs, shocker was without its top-nut. I'm sure it came with one but I've probably borrowed it for something and forgot all about it. That meant I had to use one on the ones from the NAPA shocks and the nuts on these look rubbish. They don't have the wide flange and, for me, this means the nut doesn't have the same spread of force or whatever on the top-mount metal bit 😕

Anyway I had to use one. All this hassle due to losing my 18mm spanner. Have one on the way but it's a bit late now.

So with the 2nd strut done I decided to put the 1st one back on the compressor to turn the top-mount to right position. I'm sure normally you can just spin them round but this wasn't working and long story short had to take the top-mount off and do it again 😩

After that I noticed one of the springs wasn't sitting correctly under the top-mount. It was sort of hanging out the side and I manged to lever it in better but then noticed the top-mount is sitting squint.

Turns out this isn't because the spring is on wrong. It's the top coil that is not as flat as the other ones. Nothing I can do about it and am not changing it again.


nut borrowed from NAPA shock


NAPA nut doesn't have flange like originals or Sachs ones


spring sitting outside of top-mount


this didn't look right




both springs now sitting same



but one top-mount looks squint


same issue from another angle




problem is this gap here



and again compared with spring under no load



Anyway that's the springs on and am busy getting the knuckles and calipers ready. I remember reading threads on here before where people were having terrible issue with Mondeo rear springs being wrong shape or something and they were rubbing off the bodywork. Despite my small issue with top coil on 1 spring I can't see me having any real problems with these 🤞
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
31,085 Posts
Seems to be a while since I started reading this thread, surprised it was only started March last year.

Have you been keeping track of the costs? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So, as mentioned above, I've been cleaning the knuckles. On Saturday I was hoping to get paint on but I think my Oxalic Acid bath has finally lost its strength. The liquid is very dark now and (unlike vinegar) this seems to mean it's no longer working (I have a vinegar tub that is years old and still works). So that knuckle wasn't ready.

I fished out the one that was in the electrolysis for 2 days and was amazed at the separation of the rust from the component. It had literally came off in sheets. I spent a couple of hours cleaning this up by hand. It seems that after electrolysis there is a lot of 'dirt' on the item and am not sure if this could them be cleaned off in some other sort of dip.

But for time being it was wire-brushing, files etc and the other one is now in the tub.

Should get them painted next visit. In fact I will get them painted as it's not going to fail the MOT due to insufficient prep under paint 😑




knuckle after 2 days in electrolysis


Next thing to deal with were the calipers. I've no pics of this part but was busy trying to fit the right seals in the right place and assemble the first one without getting bits mixed up with the other 3 I stripped.

I kept all the bits in separate tubs and initially remembered which cleaned caliper came from which tub but I've now lost track of that. The seal kit come with 2 sizes of seals/dust-seals for the handbrake part but I'm sure all my calipers have same size. Where I did get mixed up was fitting the bracket and actuating-arm for the handbrake. I got it on and found there was very little travel so offered it up to a knuckle and hub and worked out I had the upside down. The arms and arm are handed so I'll need to look at it all again next visit.

Anyway. In the seal kit there are parts for the sliders. In all the years I've been messing around with Mondeos I've never had to deal with these so this was new to me.

First thing I the noticed was how much rust was under the heads of them. These won't be painted or anything so I just scraped the rust off will hacksaw blades and wire brushes to make them functional.

The other thing I noticed is that for each pair one slider takes a rubber seal thing and one doesn't. The one which doesn't has 3 flattened faces on the shaft. I've no idea which goes at top and which goes at bottom. Didn't manage to get an answer on Facebook so will check Haynes and this site as am sure there is a reason.

I also noticed I've lost 2 of the bolts but for some reason you always get new ones in brake-pad kits. Quite handy but I think they'd be better giving you the ones which hold the calipers to the carriers. The slider ones are always ok and the others are always fkd.

On that subject I seem to have lost one of the new Ford bolts for caliper-to-carrier. God knows where that went but am not going thru hassle of ordering another. Will re-use best olds one I can find


caliper sliders. only 2 have these rubber things


a lot of rust under the heads. easy enough to remove



brake pad kit has these new bolts



slider bolts look fine but will use new ones


only have 3 caliper-to-carrier bolts
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
31,085 Posts
One plastic sleeved pin and one metal pin is normal.
 

·
Clever Clauggs
Joined
·
4,579 Posts
The sleeved slider usually goes on bottom hole,some one says there are indicating marks on the carrier bottom hole,if you try each pin in either hole one is smaller and tighter..Edit see you have already looked up old posts.
When compressing springs with your machine, strut spindle is off centre, using additional clamps to hold the spring then releasing machine, will the spindle centre and top mount go on easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The sleeved slider usually goes on bottom hole,some one says there are indicating marks on the carrier bottom hole,if you try each pin in either hole one is smaller and tighter..
Thanks MZs

I actually went thru some old threads last night and found a bit of chat about it. Also checked Haynes manual but couldn't see anything there.

But, as you say, the consensus was that sleeved one goes in bottom hole. Thanks.

Also saw pics of indent but that is apparently only on later ones. I'm putting my early type on a later car but will rebuild the proper ones in due course
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Ok. Hopefully this won't be a long post. I learned something, well a few things, and also had a bit of a set-back. This was yesterday.

So I got the tubs with all the bits from the 4 calipers I stripped and was pleased I managed to match them all up by a very long process of elimination. Only thing missing was one of the special bolts that holds the handbrake tumbler thing in to the caliper body.

I also examined the carriers which have re-rusted badly indoors! (used VHT grey primer and Halfords VHT aluminium paint) to see if there were any clues re the slider pins.

I was under the impression the carriers aren't handed and as they (appear to have) the same part numbers cast on them this would follow.

However I discovered the casting differs slightly at opposite holes and the small hole/large hole thing corresponds also. When the carriers are put together as they would be on car (like facing each other) the differing parts of the casting match each other so they are handed. The pin with the rubber sleeve fits in the hole with the machined part of the casting is wider.

So in simpler terms I'm saying you'd find the wider bit on the carrier, ear-mark that for the sleeved pin and make sure it's fitted to the side of the car which would have the pin at bottom.


caliper-carrier castings differ here in mirror-image so they must be handed

Anyway. back to the calipers....

I had all the bits matched to their casting and was fiddling around with the tumblers and pistons. I'd also discovered that all the (Haynes) business about the long cut-out on the right piston facing the mark on the body and the short cut-out on the left facing the mark is just to do with the pip on the back of the brake pads.

I'm still not sure why, with the pip always being on the inner circumference of the pad, you would need a different shape slot on piston to meet the pip but there will be an answer. I guess the pip is there to control some aspect of the piston turning as it moves up the worm-screw thing.

Well during all this fiddling I found I had 3 tumblers where the piston wound onto the tumbler anti-clockwise and 1 that was clockwise. Or, in other words, I had 3 RHS assys and 1 LHS 🤔

And guess what?..... the LHS one was bent/broken. :rolleyes:


I checked and checked over and over to make sure I wasn't mistaken but eventually accepted it was the case. And it was def 2 RHS calipers and 2 LHS. So one RHS caliper must have always had the wrong mechanism in it. So perhaps it doesn't matter - altho it must do.

How was the LHS broken? Well it's a sort of spring-loaded set-up and there are ball-bearings at the non-piston end. These had somehow came out of place on mine and the unit was jamming and looking bent. I tried for ages to release the pressure from the top spring to try and settle the balls but it wasn't working so only option was to cut the end of casing off. Now it's getting ridiculous.

This worked and I could feel the mechanism settle back into place without actually having to take it fully apart but now I had to re-seal it.

I tried to weld the bit back on but it was basically a waste of time and I threw in the towel. And mulled it over once home.

I think I have 4 options

  1. buy a new LH caliper
  2. remove the LH caliper that's still on car and see if I can get it moving freely
  3. try welding the thing back on again
  4. use one of the RH mechanisms.

handbrake tumbler opened. how to close it back up is problem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Ok so the struts (legs?) are more or less assembled and back on the car (y):)

Did the O/S/R first and that took a while as I was taking pics and fiddling around with the caliper etc and finding the new Ford bolts I bought a looong time ago (for the abandoned 1.8 Mistral project).

I didn't have my Haynes manual with me so none of the fasteners are properly torqued. This means I'll need to remove the brake disc to do the hub-to-knuckle ones.

The fully-assembled leg was quite heavy to put back on car so with the N/S/R I tried to do it the 'proper' way - which I've never done before due to seized pinch-bolts. Basically means separating the knuckle from the strut on the car nd doing reverse when assembling.

This turned out to be more of a hassle for me as the car being jacked on one side affects to ARB and if you connect the drop-link to the shock in this state it wants to pull it off the subframe. Then I had problems getting the knuckle to fully seat up the shock. Was hard to lever the slot in the knuckle whilst pushing it up and trying to keep the strut from turning.

Anyway I got it done but had a mare with the nuts for the drop-links. They were a trouble to get off (due to the Nyloc over dirty thread) so I did clean the threads before putting nut back on but they were unbelievable hard to get back on and I rounded the puny 5mm Allen hole in the stud on the N/S one. This meant pushing the boot off the back hoping to find a flat surface for a spanner (not on this one) and holding with grips the finish the nut off. Minor detail but wasted a lot of time and not sure why there was such a problem.

All I need to do now is sort this issue with the N/S/R handbrake tumbler and that's it basically done and I can move to the front of car.

I'll go into more detail later about fasteners, pads, piston positions and what I learned on the net about caliper-pins 🤓



fitting knuckle to shocker with new pinch-bolt



new (pattern) splash-guard versus original



one set of Torx screws from hub were good enough to re-use



splash-guard and hub fitted



used disc (not from this car) fitted


pins and boots fitted to caliper-carrier


pads checked for fit


brakes being fitted


checking piston-slot/caliper-mark/pad-pip will align


leg ready to go on


original (late) caliper removed from O/S/R




leg back on dirty car



strut put on without knuckle etc on O/S



connecting drop-link too early not best idea



good (used) splash-guard put on O/S knuckle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Bit of a blip in continuity here but basically, yesterday, I revisited the tumbler issue and despite the crazy ide of welding the casing I think it'll work.

I just happened to run out of CO2 gas for the MIG which is prob why my welds were so poor the other night but with the ugly tacks I tried the thing in the caliper (without seals etc) and the action is fine.

Will get more gas today and finish job off


mess that I finished night off with on Friday


I have one LH tumbler


quite clearly 2 piston-screws go one way and 1 goes the other


same is visible on tumblers


all dimensions are same. these are the slots that retaining-screw engages in


not sure what these other slots are for but the 2 RH tumblers have pressings next to them that the LH one doesn't
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Ok so, rather surprisingly, I'm back on track as I got the tumbler sorted yesterday :)

I basically cut the previous (poor) welds, tidied the edges up, checked, re-checked, checked and re-checked everything again and welded the bit back on again.

The caliper which I'd initially refurbished had all the brackets painted and was done in the brake-caliper paint brush-on paint as opposed to the VHT spray paint. I wanted to use that one as the paint seems to be more robust but due to very slight difference I noticed on the tumbler thought it was best to keep it with the one it came from.

That caliper for some reason has lost its special Pentagon bolt (for securing the tumbler) so I robbed it from the other LH one.

So the remaining LH caliper is prob useless, despite looking good, as it has a RH tumbler. When testing I did notice that the tumbler mechanism does work whatever way you move the actuating-arm but with the integral worm screw going wrong way I can't figure out if that would be a problem in operation. Perhaps that aspect only matters for setting-up. IE the winding in clockwise or anti-clockwise. I don't know but am glad I fixed the correct one so I don't need to worry about it.

A minor issue also came up with the seal kits. I thought I had only bought one years ago so bought another recently (to do a pair of calipers) but have since found a 3rd bag.

I wasn't paying that much attention when I opened the bags but it seems only one of them included the oil-seal which goes outside the caliper over the tumbler shaft. There is also a dust-seal which goes over that.

The kit includes some seals you don't need which seem to be slightly different sized ones for the above.

Looking at my bags one kit has a web address on it so am guessing that's more recent and must've been the one which included the seal I'm talking about. I know for sure I put a new one on the RH caliper but have had to re-use an old one for the LHS

The kits include 2 small sachets of grease. One is red rubber grease for the seals and one is sort of clear stuff for the sliders (y)


top of tumbler with heavy spring removed. worm shaft in middle has large separate washer at base. shaft has dogs which engage with a mechanism below


spring from upper part of tumbler


spring back in place needs to be compressed considerably


compressing spring to weld 'cap' back on



cap back on


seal kit


these seals SC 17 25 4 were not included in all the kits


1 kit did have the SC 17 25 4 seal. possibly one on LHS


old seal re-used


thinner slider-pin with 3 flat faces and no rubber


rubber-sleeved caliper-pin with special grease on it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Ok so I missed out some bits. Not sure they're that important now but one thing was the bolts for the caliper-carrier to knuckle.

I should have had 4 new ones but only have 3. Was trying to find a re-useable old one but they heads are really no good. 13mm spanner way to loose and 12mm won't fit and am not hammering a 12mm socket over them again.

Some time ago I got some really good heavy fasteners from the seat-pan area of a Mondeo in a scrappies. It was when I was getting a set of leather seats (for £60). I remember at the time thinking why did they use such high-quality fixings for seats and that they must be of some use to someone somewhere as they are in mint condition but never considered them for this application.

They are 10.9 grade with T50 Torx heads. Would prob be a nightmare to remove if the heads corroded but they'll be fine for now. There are actually 2 slightly different types (the heads) but the threaded part fits. It's a bit longer but won't foul anything.


13mm spanner on a new bolt


13mm on an old one


worn carrier bolt next to 2 types from seat-pan


one type has more bulbous head


in place on carrier

I also bought 6 new bolts for the control-arms to knuckle. There are 4 of one type which connect the arm from the subframe and 2 of another which connect the trailing arms. The latter have 18mm heads and the others 15mm.

It's actually a bit of a waste of money having to but new ones as the threaded parts on them all are mint. It's just the heads that get too rust and worn. The 18mm ones don't seem to suffer as badly as the 15s. Looking at the new (15mm0 ones next to the originals they aren't actually identical but close enough.

You can still get the big washers that go on these bolts but they aren't chepp so I just knocked the rust off the originals to re-use them


a knuckle set of bolts c/w (rusty) washers


new control-arms to knuckle bolts next to originals


ones for trailing arms are identical


control-arm bolts not quite the same

The small )10mm head) screws that hold the strut top-mounts to the body were actually in good enough nick to not round-off when I took them out but I had already bought new ones so decided to use them. They seemed a little short which didn't help locating the (heavy) strut whilst trying to find the hole in the body but I went ahead anyway. The next day I found I'd used the wrong ones. I have a 5 pack of the correct ones but had mistakenly used the ones which are for the D-bush bracket on the subframe. Will be easy enough to swap them over.


new screws for strut top-mounts were a bit short


should have used these
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Going back a few days to some bits I missed. Later calipers iirc

So I don't think I mentioned that my pal (who no longer has a Mondeo Mk3) gave me a set of brand-new Mintex rear pads. As soon as I saw them I thought they didn't look right but the box indicated they were for years 00-07.

This was around the time I had the issue with the Rh/LH tumblers and I had a slight hope that the tumblers in the Edge (late) rear calipers would be interchangeable with the ones on the early calipers I was working on.

I started stripping the O/S/R one off the Edge and hit a problem in that I can't work out how to remove the tumbler. Looks like it might be some sort of spring-clip but it's def not held in by special bolt as on the early ones.

I also had a look at the casting and the slider-pins before they were removed and the rubber-sleeved one was at top and so was the indent on the carrier. This doesn't therefore follow the 'logic' of the leading-edge being the one which gets the rubber one.

It also seems to me, from the castings, that Bosch script appears at top so if you had a LH & RH carrier mixed up that might tell you which way to go 🤷‍♂️


info says pads are for 00-07


but pads look different to the ones I've seen



front & rear views of old/new early pads next to new Mintex ones


O/S/R (late) caliper from 56 plate Edge


separating caliper from carrier. rubber-sleeved pin is at top


flattened one is at bottom





casting marks


indentation on carrier at rubber-sleeved pin hole


other hole is unmarked


marks on pad show how piston was orientated


orientation of piston in caliper


handbrake mechanism from O/S/R late caliper



screw for arm to tumbler sheared when removing nut


view of tumbler inside caliper. unclear how to remove it
 

·
Clever Clauggs
Joined
·
4,579 Posts
Earlier calipers had rounded end pads ,later calipers square ended pads.
Also non oem calipers pistons wound in different ways to standard ,probably why there is a mixture of left and right hand tumblers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
I'm pushing on with this and really hope to get it in for MOT this coming week.

Since last post(s) have bled the rear brakes, fitted the handbrake cables c/w new clips (to underbody) & adjusted the handbrake.

I've also put new clamps on the exhaust where the pipe from the backbox meets the main pipe.

I was loathe to spend more money on small items like the clips but am pleased to have done it now as the cables seem to be sitting well and, more importantly, the handbrake seems to be working like a dream. Do these fkn things ever work properly for a serious length of time?

It was £14 for the four clips (free P&P) but the old ones were basically knackered. One is ok and even with new ones the studs they go onto are like rusted Twiglets so I wasn't confident they'd hold the cables.

The cables seem to be under a lot of strain even when relaxed. The angle which they go up and down to the calipers seems crazy and I initially thought the rings on the cables that trap the plastic clip which goes int to the bracket under the floorpan were in the wrong place. and moved the clip so that it would 'find' it's natural position.

However after thinking about it and checking pics of the original cables I decided it must be right and put them back


rusty original clamp said 65mm


nearest match in Halfords (£1.60)



new ones are 2 1/2" or 63mm


seems a good match


typical condition of underbody handbrake-cable clips


new clips were £14 for 4
 
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Top