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569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
What a difference a day makes.... Well 4 days really but 1 actual day's work.

What am I on about?

Well last post I was moaning about it all/everything and in a huff ordered some new brake-discs (Mintex) despite feeling I had some spare ones somewhere which I couldn't find in the evening as there are no lights in lock-up and I was working during days ahead.

The discs arrived super-quick, but to someone else's address. All I had to go on was a 'your parcel has been delivered' email with an accompanying pic of a door I've never seen in my life before :rolleyes:

I had most of the day off on Thursday and had located the house in the pic with some detective work on Google Maps.

It was about 1 mile from my barn and I cycled over, chapped door, no answer, found the parcel in the back of (defunct) Freelander and managed to pedal back to barn with the discs under one arm.

I set about putting the spring on and came to the conclusion the only way to do it painlessly was to have the shock at an un-natural angle when you start so that the spring ends up in line with that inclination as it is compressed.

I found some potentially-suitable bits of scrap metal and tentatively wedged one under the spring-seat on the shocker and brought the spring back down again and it was very close to being right but you need to get the plastic seat on before the top-mount and the seat has a sort of foam thing attached which slides down the rod. This would have got torn/destroyed if I was forcing things so I undid everything again and found something (large shifter, on edge) which would start the shock off at a more extreme angle.

I wasn't happy about any of this as (mentioned above) the shock isn't locked into the tool and could potentially kick out if the bar or whatever slipped.

It actually worked really well however and I think it's the first time doing a spring that I've not had to prise or lever anything into place. I think it will be worth fabricating some sort of bracket which will do this job safely. Will make doing these springs a cinch rather than a nightmare.

With the strut ready to go back on it was more or less plain-sailing afterwards.

Not sure if I mention above but people (including me) seem to have a hell of a time getting the bottom balljoint out of or back into the knuckle.

I can get them out very easily with no tools or banging/levering.and similar going back in. I did have to use a very large lever tho with just enough pressure on it to keep the arm down while I pushed the strut inwards to get it directly above the balljoint pin then let them spring together

After putting the new discs and pads on the caliper-piston needed pushed back considerably but I was able to do this by hand (after taking cap off reservoir). It's all back together now and ABS light seems to be off again. I'm thinking one of the rear sensors isn't clipped back in properly after being disturbed 🤷‍♂️

I just need to do the pads and disc on the N/S/F and that should be it finally ready for MOT

I forgot to mention when I left it last time that the caliper-slider bolts seemed very tight and I left them soaking in ATF. They were still very tight a few days later but with a smallish breaker-bar got them moving (12mm socket and 19mm open-ended spanner on slider-pin head flats)

I also took time to note location of the rubber-sleeved slider-pin and again this wasn't at the leading-edge. It was in the lower hole. But as with the rear calipers the clue seems to be a small difference in the casting. The wider machining at the slider-pin head is the location for the sleeved pin

Final thing, which worried me a little, is that when I pushed the piston back into the caliper I could see brake-fluid coming past the seals but it would stop when you stopped pushing. Not sure how this will work in reverse 🤷‍♂️🤔

your parcel has been delivered

quite a big box to take by bicycle

but it contained what I needed

strut with bit of scrap wedged under - to change inclination

danger of piece slipping or being forced outwards

wedging gave better result but not quite good enough

wedged at more extreme angle

top fittings went on very easily this time

job done

large lever used to get balljoint back into knuckle

flats on drop-link balljoint are safer to use than Allen head on pin as nut is tight fit

will rubber-sleeved slider-pin be in top or bottom hole on carrier

sleeved pin was in bottom hole. note size of machined flat

pin with no rubber sleeve has narrower machined area on casting

new disc v old

piston needs retracted quite an amount with new pads & disc

will I ever be back driving this

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
Well I've done all I can really to the car and have booked it in for MOT on Friday.

Went for a spin (rural roads) and it is going like the wind and feels great all round.

When I spoke to the MOT guy he basically said 'ah Mondeo. Am afraid it will fail on the emissions' so I'm rather pissed-off to tell you the truth.

There is a bit of a burning smell from the new front pads/discs so I should perhaps strip the calipers and put new seals in but if it's going to fail anyway what's the fkn point?

The wheels aren't binding. I jacked it up after the run and they spin freely but there is def a burning smell.

The ABS light is no longer coming on but the EML did again and I cleared the code(s) again which were EGR related.

I took the EGR off and cleaned it out. Was very mucky.

Let's see what Friday brings but am pretty sure it'll be an emissions fail

dirty EGR


new pads and discs are 'burning'

I Love Diesel
2,478 Posts
If the brakes are binding the wheels would be very hot after a run. Could it just be some paint or chemical you've applied that is burning off? Also, I don't see why anyone would just assume a car will fail on emissions without any evidence? Maybe it will, maybe it won't, but there are a hundred and one other things it could fail on, minor or major. Give it a good thrash up the road before the test and check all obvious stuff like bulbs, washers/wipers, tyres etc.

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
If the brakes are binding the wheels would be very hot after a run. Could it just be some paint or chemical you've applied that is burning off? Also, I don't see why anyone would just assume a car will fail on emissions without any evidence? Maybe it will, maybe it won't, but there are a hundred and one other things it could fail on, minor or major. Give it a good thrash up the road before the test and check all obvious stuff like bulbs, washers/wipers, tyres etc.
The guy was just saying from his experience it would fail as he's seen it so many times on emissions with Mondeos and says he doesn't see any customers bringing them in now.

I'm not bothered if it fails on anything else. They can all be fixed. If it fails on emissions how many months and hassle and cash could you waste trying to fix it?

I rebuilt the engine on my 1.8 Duratec and it ran like a dream after and still failed emissions test.

It's not paint or chemicals causing the smell. I could see a blueing on the new discs and it had that smell of a burning clutch

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Well that's me got an MOT 😃😎👍

I broke the law last night and quickly moved the car from barn to outside flat so I could go straight to the MOT place today. It was en route (more or less) to a job I was on with mt friend.

Anyway, last night I was pretty sure there was no more burning with the brakes (huge relief) and the car was going like a rocket and no visible smoke coming out exhaust so I felt might just pass.

A couple of hours after leaving it the owner called to say it had passed 😮 then said 'no sorry it's failed I was looking at the wrong papers' 😐

I was more shocked that the emissions were fine 😳.

The fails were the windscreen skooshers and the handbrake. I am obviously a bit miffed about the handbrake, after all the work and new parts, but hey I have said before am sure 'do these things ever fkn work?!'

The skooshers I know work fine but not surprised at them saying they don't as I couldn't get them to work at first. Now they work perfectly - for me.

So anyway we finished work pretty early (half 1?) and I phoned to say I'd be over soon to collect it and the boss said 'we might pass it, I'll speak to you when you get here'

My pal was saying I should offer him extra money or something but I didn't feel comfortable doing that and wouldn't expect any tester to do me a favour if unless it was his choice.

So we got there eventually - after my pal's phone taking him half way round the Southside of Glasgow motorway network - and I jumped in to get my keys retrieve the car planning to sort the handbrake and bring it back on the Monday and my PASS certificate was on the counter 😁

The tester was actually quite interested in the work I'd done and I explained it might be something to do with the tumbler in the caliper (re the whole LH & RH thing) but he asked me why I'd replaced the rear hubs and after a bit of confusion the penny dropped and I realised he meant the knuckles.

This lead to me explaining about the set of springs for 99p and the electrolysis etc

He also thought the rear calipers might be new despite their rusty levers etc.

So that's a thumbs-up for electrolysis and caliper-paint.

I'm chuffed to bits about the emissions (the tester even said for 143,000 miles it surprising) and a bit sheepish about the handbrake. It's not exactly dangerous (as I've had a heads-up) but would much prefer it to have passed with flying-colours.

I will be sorting it tomorrow and let the guy know when it's fixed.

Oh and let's just say I left him a couple of purple things as a thank you 🤐

And the drive home was good. car is flying. Just need to get my road tax sorted - immediately

emissions pass

MOT certificate

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
"purple things". What's that, Quality Street? :unsure:

well it was £40 for the test and yeah 2 of those Cadbury purple things as a thank-you 😉

Am feeling quite inspired now and going to try and get the 2.0 petrol saloon back on road now. A year will go by quickly and I don't want to be off the road again this time next year when it's MOT-time for the 2.2

I looked in the 2.0 lock-up a few weeks back and as well as 4 flat tyres saw that one of the front springs has snapped so have ordered a new one today (FAI Autoparts SP099 for £14.99 posted)

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
So the pleasure was short-lived...

I knew the handbrake repair hadn't been a total success - despite all the time and money spent - but I didn't expert to have other brake-issues

I suddenly felt the pedal dropping further than it should and the ! warning-light coming on.

Checked the fluid today and it was almost empty. I cba removing the wheels and/or jacking the car to check so just topped the fluid up but then had a look under back of car (as it's easy) and saw fluid all over the N/S/R wheel.

To my utter dismay I also saw that the new handbrake cables have pulled the fucking clips off the trailing arms - as fucking usual with these Mondeos :mad:

I'm not even going to bother sorting the fucking handbrake. I can leave it in gear till next year's MOT but I'm not happy about it. What is wrong with these fucking handbrakes!? Do they ever work solidly for any length of time? Perhaps that's why the tester failed it last week but I said to him 'I bet the clips have came off or something' and he said they hadn't :unsure:

I'll need to look back on the thread but I did say that fluid was coming past one of the caliper-pistons as I pushed it in. I bet it's the one that's now leaking fluid. So is it a bad (new) seal or a worn bore or what? I am seriously pissed-off about it but have to remember these calipers were just stand-ins that cost me nothing till I refurbished the original (late) ones.

So instead of doing stuff I planned to do today I set about stripping the original (late) calipers.

You may remember the 'bolt' holding the actuating-arm to the tumbler snapped on the RHS one. Well when I was stripping the LHS I saw that it was a actually nut that holds it on. So, looking closer, at the damaged one c/w weld-blob I see that the threaded part is actually integral with the tumbler mechanism.

That caliper is .'. scrap so I thought 'what the hell, I can risk damaging it by removing the weird tumbler mechanism'. It actually came out quite easily and now that I see how it works I got the LHS one out now probs.

I had the usual bother removing the bracket from the LHS one as the Allen-head screws just round-off when any force is applied. I therefore flattened the sides of them with an angle-grinder them loosened them with mole-grips.

So the completely-stripped LHS body plus the carrier and brackets is now in electrolysis and I've ordered a seal-kit.

The RHS one is a (newer) pattern part and is really scrap unless there was some way the fix the threaded part - but that's madness so I'll prob end up with one late caliper and one early one until I get a new caliper for the RHS. There's a guy with a newish pair on Marketplace in Scotland but it's quite a drive to get them.

So how does the thingy hold the tumbler in?

Well it's like a 3-pronged cone-shaped clip with tiny pips on the prongs that engage in a groove inside the bore near the bottom.

Wit the bore empty if you put the clip down into it it doesn't grip at all. I found this a bit odd but then worked out that the prongs of the clip expand outwards by riding up notches on the bottom of the tumbler thing.

So, basically, you put the tumbler in (it has a pip on the back which presumably engages with a hole in the bottom of the bore), put the clip over it then twist the clip anti-clockwise to lock it in place.

Unlike the tumbler on the early ones it all comes apart easily despite being a similar design (spring, ball bearings etc).

So that's where we are today. Sort of back to square #1 but with an MOT and need to use brakes as little as possible to get to jobs until this seal-kit comes and I get time to fit it :rolleyes:

brake fluid leaking out the N/S/R caliper

dismantling original LHS caliper shows nut hold arm on not a screw

weld-blob on RHS will not remove anything as thread is integral with mechanism

tumbler now removed from (scrap?) RHS caliper

top part of tumbler and spring lift off bottom

top sits on bottom with this ball-bearing thing in between

bottom part can be dismantled further

but weld-blob is stopping this one coming out

everything stripped off LHS caliper

tumbler etc same as those from (pattern) RHS caliper

screws on LHS caliper needed flats put on them to get grip

bracket and screws removed

pip on back of bottom piece of tumbler

pip possibly locates in this hole

I assumed clip locates over these notches

but found if the rotate the clip it rides onto the notches

which expands it to lock the tumbler into caliper

LHS (OEM) caliper had this seal where tumbler-stud exits body

not sure if RHS (pattern) caliper had seal

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So that's me got the new seal-kit and the (N/S/R) caliper is stripped, painted and just about ready to re-assemble

I didn't really want to go and buy more (expensive) special paint to use on it and had a smidge of VHT primer left and some VHT black so sprayed the carrier and arm/bracket with the primer and black. I had no more primer left but did have the dregs of some silver brush-on caliper paint left so did the actual body in that.

This was on Sunday so, after work today, the plan was to assemble the caliper and possibly even put it on car but I couldn't really be bothered changing it and also there might have been complications and I needed the car tonight and tomorrow. The brush-on stuff wasn't fully dry anyway so I decided just to leave it another day. It's costing me a fortune in brake-fluid so the sooner it's sorted the better.

Anyway I was amazed how good the pats cleaning-up after the electrolysis and of course examined them for markings etc.

The rm and bracket are stamped sort of consecutive numbers. I don't know if this is a Bosch or Ford ref but we have 31378 on the arm and 31380 on the smaller bracket that takes the handbrake cable. Both are very pitted and for some reason the small one still has a bit rust on it.

The carrier & caliper have various numbers on them but I was a bit surprised to find an -8 stamped on the caliper. My car is a 56 so it would be a bit strange to have needed a caliper less than 2 years after it was made. It could be an old-stock part put on years later I guess.

As for the caliper seal-kit. It was £7.75 (posted) and seems to have everything you need including, perhaps the seal which goes under the tumbler assy. I wouldn't have expected kits to include this as I din't believe they are supposed to be serviceable items.

They also have included 3 grease sachets. I thought the last supplier was good, with 2, but 3 seems quite comprehensive.

The seal kit appears to be Budweg, as there is a bit of a box sent with it, but not sure why they don't just flatten the box. maybe they come in pairs and they need to keep a bit of the box for the other kit.

£7.75 seal-kit

slip with seals-kit must mean kit plus grease-kit(s)

2 silicone greases sent

main seals (bore; boot; slider boots; sleeve for slider-pin)

smaller seals (nipple-cap; ?; tumbler; tumbler-aperture on body)

caliper assy after 2 days in electrolysis

handbrake arm has 31378 stamped on it

bracket for handbrake cable has 31380

caliper came up very clean


569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
So what's been happening?

Well, on top of the leaking caliper, I have a droning sound coming from (I think) the O/S/F plus a knocking sound over even the slightest bump.

So I'm pussy-footing around as I don't want to use the brakes much and it's a slow, clunky, noisy experience. Nothing like when I first got it back on road and was zipping around smiling.

I've been putting-off changing the caliper as i need the car daily and also can't figure out how to get the tumbler back in.

I made a half-arsed attempt at a tool the twist the tripod-clip thing to lock it and after much fiddling today to just get the bottom part of the tumbler in with its pip in the housing then the spring then the clip on and getting my lovely new paint filthy with grease etc from the sachet I tried using the tool and it wasn't a success.

I'd basically rolled a bit sheet-steel into a tube then made 3 tangs on it to engage with holes on the clip. It wasn't very successful and I couldn't really turn it as there was nothing to hold and doing it with pliers just twisted the tube.

So it was back to the drawing-board and cut a much longer piece of steel and formed it into a tighter tube. I also found you can actually put the clip onto the tumbler mechanism so it's locked on and holds the spring in place then carefully insert the whole assy into the caliper-body making triple-sure nothing turns prematurely and the pip is definitely in the hole. I found the pip part quite tricky as there wasn't a distinct feeling that it was in.

Anyway with the tumbler in and a much longer tube, which I could hold outwith the caliper-body, I put the tube on top of the clip then opened it up with a chisel by turning it 90 degrees (the tube has a slit along its whole length as the sheet wasn't welded together) so the tangs would go over it then withdrew the chisel so the tube would spring shut again and with a twist of the wrist it finally locked in place.

The it was back in with the chisel to open the tool and withdraw it and I was amazed to see it had worked.

I put the actuating-arm on the other and to test if it worked without sending everything flying and it all seemed fine :D

I wanted to call it a day there as I was doing all this after a shift building a wall and cba but decided to press on fit the piston.

This proved to be a lot more difficult than the previous (early) calipers I rebuilt recently. iirc the pistons just pressed in to them but with this (late) caliper it seemed you really needed to twist it in on the worm-drive thread thing. This worked for a while then it wouldn't go in any further. I really don't remember having this trouble on the others and it was less then a month ago and I have a good memory.

After turning it and turning it and it not going any further I tried squeezing it in on a vice but this didn't feel good and nothing moved.

I then experimented on the other stripped one. The piston wound down the tumbler fine but I found once it got to bottom the piston spins on itself so to speak. IE the screw part is separate to the actual piston. I tried squeezing the 2nd (scrap) one in on the vice and it didn't work so decided turning was the best way to go.

I therefore took the piston back out to check for problems (like wrong thread or something) and there wasn't anything so basically it was the tightness of the seal that was the problem. Once the parts were screwed together a certain amount you were just spinning the piston around the screw part of the piston-assy. On the dummy one it only took 2 1/2 turns to fully seat it.

I therefore swapped my grips for the key from my angle-grinder which fitted the piston cut-outs quite well and pushed inwards as I turned the piston. It went home much easier and I also used the other piston in its (bare) bore to see how far down the piston can go to be fully-seated.

I'm not sure if this is good news going forwards - about the piston'e reluctance to travel smoothly up and down the worm mechanism - but there's not much I can do about it :rolleyes:

Actually, thinking back, I may have just pushed the other pistons partly home when assembling them as I distinctly remember having to squeeze them back in to clear the brake pads. I'm confused tbh.

Anyway with the piston fully home I called it a day. Still got to sort out the caliper sliders etc.

The parts are all painted now and I sprayed the caliper body again as it was filthy from my dirty hands. Not much point painting over grease but there's no way I was stripping the bare metal again.

I think I mentioned previously that I wasn't sure about the size of the seal suppled to replace the tumbler to body seal. It look bigger to me but seemed to fit ok. Am sure it will cause problems later but again nothing i can do about it.

The face of the piston is a bit scruffy with rust and flaking chrome. I cleaned the rust off and the grips today didn't help with the flaking chrome but I also see there is a dent or dimple on the face possibly caused by someone not aligning it correctly and the pip on the pads would be pressing onto the face of the piston rather than sitting in the actual cut-out

Next post I will hopefully have the caliper on the car and will post pics of the improvised tool.

On my other thread (2.0 Ghia X Saloon) I have been refurbishing a spare front knuckle including a new wheel-bearing. I don't really want to duplicate all that here but it looks like I'll be getting the knuckle ready and putting it on this car to hopefully get rid of the droning noise

building a wall then working on the 2.2

seal-kit included this O-ring (LHS) which must be replacement for the tumbler one

face of piston is not great

dent may have been caused by not aligning pip on pads with cut-out

caliper painted and tumbler/piston/seals in place

569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Ok so I got the 'proper' N/S/R caliper fully assembled and fitted today and it's amazing to have brakes again. :love:(y)(y)

CBA going into it all just now but I will post about the caliper-carrier bolts.

Not sure if I mentioned it back when I was assembling the rear struts but I was torquing the bolts up to factory-spec, per Haynes, and I felt the top one strip.

The manual gives different figures for the early and late calipers and I can't remember right now which is which but I blamed myself for using the higher value iirc and/or the fact that I'd used those non-standard bolts.

The carriers for the early calipers are supposed to be extremely hard to find and I don't think Helicoiling it would be sensible so I've had in my mind getting one from a scrappy.

Anyway, today, when putting the correct (late) caliper on and having to re-use the non-standard bolts it gave me a chance to see what the damage was on the early carrier.

First thing I noticed is that there is plenty unused thread in the casting that you could utilise with a longer bolt. The ones employed are about 25mm long and the knuckle is 12mm thick so there is only about 12mm/13mm of the bolt in the actual carrier. You could prob use a 40mm of 50mm bolt and still not poke out the other end

It was when I was measuring the bolts I noticed the type I'd chosen have only part threads at the end. I dug out the other ones (with the flatter heads) and they have almost 8 full threads beyond the knuckle. The ones I used have 5 then they fade. You can see in the damaged thread in the carrier that it's about 3 or 4 threads that stripped.

So, for today, I used the other bolts and didn't tighten them up with actual torque-wrench. Just 'pretty tight' with T50 key.

A minor detail but at least the carrier isn't scrap now

I used 2 x bolt on RHS for carrier-to-knuckle

removing stripped one today saw threads from casting on bolt

top of thread in carrier clearly damaged

placing bolt in knuckle shows only 5 full threads were in carrier

with other (similar) bolt 8 threads catch carrier
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