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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

Been told I need one of these for my auto capri, I don't no much about them or where to get them, can anyone help me out please google isn't being very useful to me.

I need a thermostat that warms the bottom of the engine first so the trans oil cooler works and this is what I been told to use.
 

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to be honest mate, i have never heard of one, i just asked a mate who liked his tinas and sierras, he says the same, never heard of one, i do know they do thermostats that open at different temperatures, these are referred to as summer and winter thermostats

as far as i'm aware you should find a bog standard stat in the housing.

if you can, pop it out and post a pic :L
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Soon as I get a chance mate I will put a pic up if I can.

I googled them and it comes up thermostats for the house but I have read on a bit about radiators that you can get a two stage thermostat for a car, it's got two valves on which I assume open at separate times to allow the oil cooler and engine to run at the right temps. I dunno tho.
 

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as far as i'm aware (using the sierra as ref) 2 cooler pipes just ran into the side of the radiator from the gearbox, (hot supply and cold return) it didn't have any valves etc sending coolant that way.

never had any issues running std stat either, til the engine died at a fair rate of knots and got changed for a 2.0, and then 5 speeded it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
as far as i'm aware (using the sierra as ref) 2 cooler pipes just ran into the side of the radiator from the gearbox, (hot supply and cold return) it didn't have any valves etc sending coolant that way.

never had any issues running std stat either, til the engine died at a fair rate of knots and got changed for a 2.0, and then 5 speeded it.
There won't be much difference in engines would there? When I took my rad off I took the top and bottom hoses off and the two thin pipes off the bottom which go to the trans and had all oil in. I'm guessing all that's the same as what u had mate?

It's got a standard thermostat in now but was told that's useless cuz the bottom of the engine has to warm up first. Is that right?

I'm trying to find a separate trans oil cooler to fix onto a radiator but I can't find what I need.
 

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i think the best bet would be to pop the old one out, and see what it is like, a majority of motor factors stock quite a range of parts, may be worth taking it in to see if they have one.

technically they will run without a stat, (needs putting back together without it in!) but they take a lot longer to warm up, especially in winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i think the best bet would be to pop the old one out, and see what it is like, a majority of motor factors stock quite a range of parts, may be worth taking it in to see if they have one.

technically they will run without a stat, (needs putting back together without it in!) but they take a lot longer to warm up, especially in winter.
If I did run it without one does the cooling system still work right? How does the water know when to go round without a stat opening up to allow it? Or have i got it wrong lol?

How long will the engine take to to warm before I drive off. The stat that was in it had been jammed open so the mechanic changed it. This jammed open stat was in when I drove the car ok, just revved quite high when driving cold.
 

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regardless of the thermostats presence, the pump will send water round the system, if you've ever seen one in a saucepan, you'll see the spring contract and the hole opens allowing it to flow through. Imagine it is like a bung, it keeps the coolant in the engine block and prevents it going to the rad to get cooled until the coolant is at the temperature, if the coolant cools too much, it closes again until it warms up again.

without it, its unrestricted flow, and you won't get up to temp, it won't be able to open and close to maintain operating temp, so the car will use more fuel. Other than that, its fine to use it without.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
regardless of the thermostats presence, the pump will send water round the system, if you've ever seen one in a saucepan, you'll see the spring contract and the hole opens allowing it to flow through. Imagine it is like a bung, it keeps the coolant in the engine block and prevents it going to the rad to get cooled until the coolant is at the temperature, if the coolant cools too much, it closes again until it warms up again.

without it, its unrestricted flow, and you won't get up to temp, it won't be able to open and close to maintain operating temp, so the car will use more fuel. Other than that, its fine to use it without.
Will that drive like a big sack of crap? Lol last thing I need is to use more fuel, it's only a 3 speed auto box but tbh not had the chance to see how many miles I get out of a tank. The fuel gauge is pretty useless on it tho.

Ifi take the stat out and put it in a pan do I then just warm the water up to see it work? I never tried it before.

So if I get my leaky rad fixed and stick it back on, fill it all up and take it for a spin with the stat in, if it overheats then try it without or try a different stat eg 90 degrees c? Or just try it without one?
 

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it will use more fuel, fact.

it should work in a pan, if its not faulty, ideally you want a thermometer in it so you can see when it opens.

 
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