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Roomey
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
Anyone got any ideas where I can get a 3 way ground loop isolator
I can plenty 2 way but not three
Cheers
Roomey
 

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Dirty old Megger
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What equipment do you want to isolate it with?

Wouldn't it be better to ensure you've got proper ground connection on all of it in the first place? :)
 

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Roomey
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's the Bluetooth module that's fitted to a 07 plate tit x I did the wiring and notice some people have had the same problem
Cheers
Roomey
 

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I have just wired up the my 08 plate tit x to use a newer Bluetooth module. I used a standard car audio 2 channel ground loop isolator (because it was 3 quid and there seems to be some debate about whether it is needed) and I have perfect sound quality from usb/iPod/Bluetooth streaming.
 

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I have just wired up the my 08 plate tit x to use a newer Bluetooth module. I used a standard car audio 2 channel ground loop isolator (because it was 3 quid and there seems to be some debate about whether it is needed) and I have perfect sound quality from usb/iPod/Bluetooth streaming.
Can you give me pointers as to what you bought and how you fitted it?
 

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This is exactly what I bought (but not from that seller)

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/201323081369?nav=SEARCH

I cut the plugs off both ends and then I joined the shield of both Channels together and soldered that to the ground for the aux cable and soldered left/right to the aux cable as well.

The I extended and inputs (shield joined) and connected them to the outputs of the bluetooth module ad per the diagram that is posted on here somewhere.

I have tested it thoroughly, I get no alternator whine or anything like that - I am using an ordinary usb cable and a female to female adapter so I can plug in an iPod cable or USB thumb drive and they both work fine (iPod needs a Y cable) and Bluetooth streaming works fine too. My ultimate plan is to run cables to the arm rest so I can keep my iPod classic in there.
 

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Im new at this forum so i dont know how to post my own posts ( sorry ) I know this has been posted like 100 times before.. But im having som serious issues. I just bought a bluetooth-USB module. I fited it ( no problem there ) When i serch for devices my phone ( iPhone 6 ) finds Ford audio immeadetly. But no code shows on the display of the sony audio device. When i try the USB the phone starts to charge, but no music..Even tough i press CD/AUX plenty of times. And yes i've checked that the phone will take the audio will transer the sound to the connected device. The old bluetooth module is ( 7S7T-19G488-AE) The new module is ( 8M5T-19C112-AT) I've checked so many forums and googled for like 4 hours now.. Cant find the solution! Any help with this is really appreciated.
 

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If you have a 7S7T module then you potentially have a couple of issues. You Will need to modify the aux plug wiring as is covered here:
http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/131772-retrofit-usb-to-an-09-titanium-x/

I don't know anything about the Sony units so I can't help you with the Bluetooth connectivity issue.

You say you get no music when the phone is connected via USB, do you get control of the iPhone through the stereo?

The other thing about using an iPod is that I need to use a Y cable to get sound from the iPod, I could actually get sound from an iPod prior to rewiring my aux in, but I had no sound from USB, or my phone in calls or through Bluetooth streaming.
 

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This is exactly what I bought (but not from that seller)

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/201323081369?nav=SEARCH

I cut the plugs off both ends and then I joined the shield of both Channels together and soldered that to the ground for the aux cable and soldered left/right to the aux cable as well.

The I extended and inputs (shield joined) and connected them to the outputs of the bluetooth module ad per the diagram that is posted on here somewhere.

I have tested it thoroughly, I get no alternator whine or anything like that - I am using an ordinary usb cable and a female to female adapter so I can plug in an iPod cable or USB thumb drive and they both work fine (iPod needs a Y cable) and Bluetooth streaming works fine too. My ultimate plan is to run cables to the arm rest so I can keep my iPod classic in there.
Is there any chance you can post pics of what you've done so utter moron newbs like myself can see what to do?
 

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It's occurred to me that photos of what I did wouldn't help you. I've used a lot of heat shrink on everything, so you wouldn't see anything anyway. I'll try and simplify what I did though.

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I used the diagram above (thanks to the original poster) as the basis for what I did. It's an accurate representation of how I achieved it, with the exception of the wire colours which I'll cover below.

Nothing that I did with this was un-reversible (with a bit of soldering).

So, first up I cut the Aux In lead, I cut it pretty close to the jack socket end, but I left long enough wires to be able to solder in extensions.

The diagram isn't clear here, so I did some testing and I found that for my car, the left audio channel is the blue/red wire and the right audio channel is the brown/red wire. Black, as you might expect is ground. Mine is a 2008 Titanium X with a build date of June 2008 so yours might be different - it's not hard to work out which is which with a multi meter.

I extended the wires with some multi strand core wire I had lying around, and I followed the diagram to wire them into the plug connector for the Bluetooth unit. It's worth noting that pins 37 and 38 are already populated, so had to be removed. There is a little raised bit on the metal connectors which once depressed with a small screw driver allows the existing connectors to be pulled out I covered them individually with head shrink and tucked them out of the way. So the blue/red wire goes to pin 37, the brown/red wire goes to pin 38 and the black wire goes to pin 19. That's the input taken care of.

I bought these connectors (Futaba?) from Ebay - they aren't perfect as they don't lock into the connector. I pulled the little lug that I have circled up a bit so it caught on the plastic of the connector block - otherwise they wouldn't stay in. I was tempted to solder the connectors, but just crimp them - it's a tight fit to get them into the connector block.

Wood Font Jewellery Metal Rectangle


Next up is the output. I bought an isolator that looks a lot like this one:

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The plugs are surplus to requirements, so I cut them off. The wiring is shielded for the isolator, and there are two channels, so as there is only a single ground wire in the aux lead, I joined the shields together and soldered them, I also extended the wire with the same multi strand wire I used earlier - it would be impossible to get the wire into the connector otherwise. I then connected the inner leads to the pins as per the diagram and the extended shields to the groud (pin 23). It's important to keep track of which channel is which - So which ever one goes to pin 5 in the connector needs to connect on the other end to the blue/red wire etc. If you mix them up, you will end up with left audio through the right speaker and vice versa.

Once the connector is finished, on the output side of the isolator solder the left channel wire to the blue/red and the right channel wire to the brown/red and earth (shields) to black to the aux lead where it goes into the car.

Once you have finished, and double checked your work, only then plug the connector back into the bluetooth module.

That is all I had to do - it took about 2 hours, in total, including installing the new bluetooth module. I covered every solder joint with heat shrink to avoid any shorts.

I've fully tested mine, all functions work including bluetooth streaming, and I have the left and right channels the right way around. I don't get any alternator whine or any other noises that shouldn't be there when using any of the inputs that go through the bluetooth module. I have no idea if the isolator was really needed, but it was £3 and it meant I didn't have to revisit the wiring if it proved necessary. Hope that helps, it's not a difficult task really.

Thanks to the original posters who worked out the pin assignments etc, as I wouldn't have got it done without their hard work and skill.
 

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Wow, thanks for that. That's given me a bit of confidence in taking the plunge and doing it myself. The one thing that is confusing me is talking about joining shields together. Is that referring to the insulation over the black and red GLI inputs and is it a case of stripping them back and just threading them together.

Pardon my ignorance and stupidity!
 

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Roomey
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice write up, that's sort my the ground loop problem out for me
Cheers
Roomey
 

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Hi mark, I need some help i get the jist of this cut the aux and wire into the bluetooth connecter to the pins 37 38 19.

Its the next bit i struggle on the output i dont want to or need to use a isolator i'm using the ford cable to the module.

Do i make a cable up and put into pins 5 an 6 and 23 and extend to stereo or do i connect the old wires to pins 1 and 2 which are mono.

Please help i am struggling with the last bit!

Cheers
 

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Dirty old Megger
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I usually try to make sure the radio head unit has a proper ground connection, and add another ground wire if I encounter issues like this, or at least that's where I start.
 
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