abs braking problem, please help!

at first thought i would check the rotors/brake discs and the pads for contamanant like greae or oil that a non thinking mech may have left some oil hand prints on the disc from the refitting process as these would have been removed on the fitting of the new clutch and so handled .clean the discs with a recommended clesner not oil based and if necessary as i belive it would renew the pads especially attend the right hand side as this i would suspect after this and ill fitting caliper or sensor or damaged or warped disc or bad bearing .all these can have a hand in whats happening before you have to interrogate the abs unit itself which is a job for professionals only.s

i have checked the discs for dirt, i dont need new pads on front yet. the mechanic said he had to take the front right strut and drop the drive shaft to replace the dmf and clutch. seems to much of a coincedence that it isnt somthing he has done during the job. could it be anything to do with the drive shaft. surely it can only be put back in one way.

anyone else have any ideas? will have to take the car off the road if i dont get it sorted.

When you say really hard brake pedal, it makes me think if the servo's not working.

To check, put the pedal several times until the pedal is right up the top (without engine running)

Now keep pressure on the footbrake, and then start the engine, the brake pedal should creep down slightly. Does it do this???

The ABS problem, could be the wiring to the sensor, wheel bearing as the abs ring is incorparated in this, but the other thing is, that the ABS pump is at the back of the gearbox, has it been knocked at all????

To to do the gearbox, the front subframe has to be removed, has this been aligned properly???

I am going to take it to another mechanic tomorrow to check things that would be obvious. didnt realise the abs pump was near the gear box, so will check that out too.

how do i check the alingment of the front subframe?

check your vaccum pipe from the engine to the servo could be split or not connected, also check none of the brake pipes are trapped/damaged.

just a little update on the abs problems, I have taken it back to the same mechanic. he took the drive shaft out again and looked at the back of the wheel hob. it looks like the abs ring has broken down. Does that mean i need a whole new hub bearing.
Also another wee question, i got my injectors cleaned, do they need re coded afterwards, car does not seem to be running right, fifth and sixth gear there is a wushing noise. can't explain it any better than that? any ideas!

I think what your mechanic means is when he's been dropping and replacing the drive shaft, he's bent or knocked the abs ring within the wheel bearing.....once he's done the job I'd further check that he's secured your inner and outer drive shaft gaiters correctly. The ABS ring is integral to the hub bearing so its a new bearing....pressed in correctly (ABS ring to outer part of knuckle) of course and not the wrong way round.

Heres an idea of whats required.....otherwise if doing a diy job and you dont want the hassle of pressing in the bearing buy the full hub....shouldn't cost much more..added some examples.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MONDEO-MK3-1-8-2-0-2-5-V6-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-WITH-ABS_W0QQitemZ390142386712QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad64c6218

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MK3-MONDEO-OFF-SIDE-FRONT-HUB-WITH-ABS_W0QQitemZ360244367456QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item53e03cd060

just an update on the abs problem, turns out the abs ring which is attached to the wheel bearing had broke up. replced the bearing costing thirty pounds and all sorted, new discs and pads also sorted.
thanks guys for all your help. just need to get this whoosing noise sorted, it's like to car is slipping it's drive in low down gears.