does anyone know the size of the intake pipes for an induction kit, been looking into a custom made kit just need to know what size the intake pipe is on the maf
Why the MAF? It has a funny square end and you'll want an adaptor to get a round tube on there. I suppose you could get that made up. I think it's about 75mm but you should check.
The adaptor I've seen takes it down (not a good idea) to the point a 76mm hose just about fits over it and the air filter goes on there.
Note ..if you go with an aftermarket type cone filter onto an adaptor on the maf you should fit the mesh screen that is used on the ST200 /SVT to stop the flow being disrupted through the maf by the cone filter..
Cone type filters tend to disrupt air flow a lot.On the Stoc 2.5 SVT over here,with a cone filter std,a fine mesh screen is fitted(by Ford,std part) where the air filter bolts to the inlet flange of the maff,this is to smooth out the disrupted flow..MAF's do NOT like it at all...and before anyone says the fine mesh is a restriction Bull s**t!!..not at all and without the mesh most tend to stumble and have very erratic A/F and flat spots..
[quote name=Terry Haines]Cone type filters tend to disrupt air flow a lot.On the Stoc 2.5 SVT over here,with a cone filter std,a fine mesh screen is fitted(by Ford,std part) where the air filter bolts to the inlet flange of the maff,this is to smooth out the disrupted flow..MAF's do NOT like it at all...and before anyone says the fine mesh is a restriction Bull s**t!!..not at all and without the mesh most tend to stumble and have very erratic A/F and flat spots..[/quote]
Terry its interesting that you should say that, because when i fitted my Nautilus turbo kit that i bought from Joey in the states, i was on the phone talking to Joey (nice guy) and he said that if i were to be putting on my bigger MAF kit that i bought in the turbo kit as an upgrade (with the 42lbs injectors) that i should add the mesh, i just didnt know what he meant but i think we both said it would look like the mesh that sometimes we have on the front doors to keep the flies out of the house in the hot summers (im from texas originally)
anyways i didnt do this in the end, its easy enough to do though, but my idle was fine on start up, then it was hunting up down up down, and then stalled,
so i put it down to the MAF and not having the mesh, but if i put my foot on the gas, it would keep it alive,
the remap has sorted the idle out, (car is still being remapped as we speak) but yes i know what you're talking about and i can vouch that without the mesh it will cause some problems
..well over here the part was mad 'obsolete' by Ford, not sure if you dealer will have it listed for the ST200 intake, worth a look at an aircleaner/maf parts pic at the dealer..it forms part of the geasket/seal between the air filter and the MAF on te SVT..
..and just a note on MAF mods in general..this from a Mustang group who mod the maf etc to remove part of the cross bar...
WOT fuel is calibrated to a point 6-10% RICH of LBT (lean best torque) in an effort to inhibit detonation and protect catalysts to be destroyed by overheating. That means there is some power to be had by LEANING out the A/F from the originally calibrated point. By removing the post you HAVE reduced pressure drop across the air meter and lean shifted the WOT fuel.
Removing the crossbar and enlarging the cross-section of the meter (porting it) can affect the WOT (open loop) in 2 ways: first by permitting MORE air to pass per given voltage than the EEC realizes, you have shifted the transfer function lean. And at WOT, there is NO feedback Air/Fuel, so desired A/F is assumed to be correct, and is not actually measured. (We will cover closed-loop A/F in my next point.) and second, you can very likely (in a high horsepower application) reach the Vmaf clip (~4.9V) SOONER so injector pulse width is not updated with airflow info and the system leans out.
Now, for closed loop, it is very possible that the error in the Voltage MAF signal can be "corrected" within the confines of the adaptive fuel strategy. The EEC will do its best to stay at 14.7:1 A/F and has the ability to iterate about that point by correcting the commanded fuel pulse-width a certain percentage. So it wont be a surprise if you don't experience idle problems, fairly low airflow at idle, times an error signal means not much error at idle.
Now, if you are using an open filter element, HOT under hood air is perceived by the ACT sensor and the spark signal is modified to prevent tip-in detonation and steady-state detonation. There will be GREATER effect of fan wash and other turbulent air sources on the transfer function than the hot air does at speed since the system cools down to some point not too far above ambient. Not exactly ambient, but not the 180F you can see sitting still.
Not all cars are created equal, some variations can occur, one of those is the fact that not all 94-94 (5.0) have the same PCM (EEC) versions.
Each version would have some different variables programmed into it, and those would be the result of software bugs found by FORD or improvements to the stored look up tables or part of the programming.
Some SN95s (5.0) are notorious for engine detonation , which in some cases has to be solved by changing the PCM or by adding a custom chip. In such cases of a SN95 presenting some degree of detonation this modification is not advisable.
It would be a wise idea to try this modification with a junk yard MAF, go buy one and test it.
Most all of this also applies to when you fit say a Pro M maf etc!!!
I just relocated my air filter under the battery and I now find she stalls when going off throttle at a junction or when parking. The idle can also be slightly erratic whereby the revs dip to about 3-500 and then eventually find their way back to 700.
induction kit has now been fitted car now sounds like a moose getting raiped first thing in the morning never mind being on heat, any advice on what it could be???
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