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Megger
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50 Posts
Hi Guys,

Been doing a bit of work on my ICE install and wanted to get some expert advice on AMP wiring in relation my existing head unit.
Want to be able to get decent sound but where possible I don't want to add in another amp.
I need the boot to remain very functional with baby buggy, shopping etc.. loads of ICE in the boot won't help & will be denied by she who must be obeyed :headshake:

So here is what I have fitted and wired up so far.
Headunit:
Pioneer headunit - DVD 6.5" flip out screen
2 x Pioneer 6.5" headrest screens
1 x Pioneer bluetooth phone kit - add on to headunit.
1 x Pioneer Ipod unit, charge & play - add on to headunit.
1 x Pioneer DEQ-P7000 5.1ch/DTS decoder - add on to headunit.

Speakers:

4 x 6x8 Pioneer custom fit in doors.
2 x Pioneer TSA6910 (6x9's) on rear shelf.
1 x Pioneer 800W Sub in custom StealthBoXz from AutoAcoustics.

AMP:
Mutant MT2004 4-channel Amp.
http://www.mutantshop.co.uk/show_product.asp?pid=1437

Wiring:
The 4 x 6x8's are wired directly to the rear of the headunit.
The headunit comes with this handy little set of cables;


Currently the subwoofer RCA's run from channels 1&2 (bridged) on the AMP back to the subwoofer RCA outputs on the head unit.
The bass response is very good considering the AMP was cheap as chips! :L

Anyway, the only speakers that I do not yet have wired up are the 2 6x9's on the rear shelf.

Are ye still awake :yawn:

So, My questions:

Can I run another set of RCA's from the Rear RCA outputs on the headunit back to channels 3&4 on the amp to power the 6x9's?

Will this stop the 6x8's in the rear doors from working due to the fact i'm using the RCA outputs?

If the above is the case, how could I wire up the 6x9's and the Sub using only the first 2 channels.
The specs of the AMP are listed on the website to give you a better idea of what I am talking about.

Currently the whole setup sounds really good, but in saying that I have already butchered my rear shelf to fit the 6x9's, it would be a shame for them not to be used.

Oh, one other thing for anyone considering this kind of ICE install on a MK2 Hatch.

I found that by removing the centre console around the handbreak/gear lever that there is a ton of cable storage room in behind the ashtray area.
It was only by removing the console that you really get an idea of how much space there is in there.

Any Pioneer owner will tell you, the IP-bus cable system on these headunits produces a lot of excess cable which cannot be cut or hidden away easily.
Also, every single addon to the headunit comes with it's own (brain) or breakout box.
I installed the 2 for the screens inside the centre console at the rear, either side of the armrest housing.

To look at my car's setup now, you would not know there was anything extra other than the headunit and the screens on the headrests.

Next mod, have screens properly fitted inside the headrests, currently fitted on special Pioneer universal brackets.
I'm actually considering leaving it like this as it allows my to quick release the screens when the car is parked up anywhere suspect :woot:

Oh yeah, will try and post some piccy's when i eventually finish everything.
Have to wait till the new year to get all of the rest of my bit'n'bobs as Xmas is going to give my plastic a run for it's money!:(
Cheers,
 

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If i'm reading this right then you are running your sub bridged of channels 1 and 2 of the amp! This means there is currently nothing connected to channels three and four! So yea, you can connect the rear RCA's from your head unit to channels three and four of your amp. This will not stop any of the other speakers working, the RCA's are in addition to everything else, so don't worry about it.

It would also be a good idea when you connect the 6x9's to the C & D channels to turn the HPF on, this will stop some of the bass going to the 6x9's so they can cope with going louder before distorting.
 

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Megger
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can anyone suggest a good centre speaker to be used as part of the 5.1 setup?
I know Pioneer do one which is dash mountable, however i'd rather a hide away option if there is one.

Any idea chaps?
 

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Registered
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Ideally it should be the same as the left and right speakers to create continuity across the front channels, but if you go for something with good vocal power and the ability to be fitted where you wanted, that should cover all your bases!
 

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Megger
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Blowing fuses lads, need some advice.
I should probably start a new topic but it's related to everything I have posted here already.

Turned on the head unit the other day, all switched on, pressed play and it died.
Checked all fuses and found that the 10amp fuse from the head unit had blown.

Basically the following units are all fused, but wired in line with the head unit using the ISO adapter kit.

Pioneer headunit - DVD 6.5" flip out screen.
2 x Pioneer 6.5" headrest screens.
1 x Pioneer bluetooth phone kit - add on to headunit.
1 x Pioneer Ipod unit, charge & play - add on to headunit.
1 x Pioneer DEQ-P7000 5.1ch/DTS decoder - add on to headunit.

I am thinking that the power draw is too much for the standard fuse box in the car.

Fuse is rated at 7.5amp for Radio & imobiliser.
Should I up the amp of that fuse to a 30amp?

Any suggestions on how I should re-do the wiring to ensure all units only receive power when the ignition is on?

I'm concerned that next time the head unit might blow rather than it's fuse :(
 

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MEG Sergeant
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1,308 Posts
no dont change the fuse for a bigger one it could cause things to start melting if they recieve more current then they should.

Try wiring the other devices straight to the battery and see what happens
 

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Megger
Joined
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Guys, I don't get it, all of the add-on units for this head unit only come with yellow, ignition wires, and black ground wires.
The yellow wires are all fused.

If the units all had red wires then i would certainly plug them all into the battery directly.

Are you sure they will not all be switched on when I plug them into the battery directly?
Would it be best to use a thick, amp gauge wire fused beside the battery, then use a distrbution block beside the head unit for all of the add-on box yellow wires?
 

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Megger
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Guys,

Sorry my brain is not fully switched on today.
Before I go ahead and do all this can you please confirm the following for me:

All the add-on boxes have fused yellow cables, these i believe are ignition wires, in a sense that the units are switched on when the ignition is switched on.

If I run a direct feed from the battery to these wires, will they still only power on when i turn on the ignition?
or will they be permanantly switched on?

I really don't want this to kill the battery as anyone who knows mondeos will tell you, it's not a good idea to flatten the battery as it messes with the ECU.

All of these boxes are connected back to the head unit via Pioneer ipbus cables.
The yellow wire from each box is fused.
The black wire from each box is grounded to the chassis.
The amp in the boot gets it's remote feed from the 5.1ch decoder and not from the head unit as this causes interferance.

Thanks again lads.
 

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Megger
Joined
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Think I figured out the issue with the fuses blowing.

1, Bad grounding.
2, When using the DEQ-7000 sound decoder, it says not to connect to the speaker wirse of the head unit.

Now I have to re-wire the whole feckin car, take out the passenger seat and carpet etc..
Hopefully will get a couple of dry days to work on it in the new year :)
 
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