To be able to do this correct on an autobox you need the locking pin set to lock the flywheel (starter out job) , the powershift may be only ignition on to change gears.
Cambelt change on Powerhshift - turning engine over/locking it.
I'm about to change the cambelt on my 2.0 tdci 163 Mk4 automatic. This may be an obvious question but I've not done one before, but understand the process. With regards to locking the engine to get the crank nut off, will leaving the gearbox in Park lock it sufficiently to stop it turning (I don't have an air gun, so will be using brute strength!)?
What about when I need to turn the crank two times after fitting the belt, surely I need to get the gearbox into neutral, but unless I'm mistaken, I can't do that when the engine is off.
What about when I need to turn the crank two times after fitting the belt, surely I need to get the gearbox into neutral, but unless I'm mistaken, I can't do that when the engine is off.
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Putting it in Park will NOT lock the engine
Yeah, I'm an idiot. I've realised the engine still runs when in park, so of course it won't hold it. I'll look to get the locking pin set.
Why do you need to undo the crank bolt to change the cambelt?
How else can he access the belt ? the pulley needs to go....Why do you need to undo the crank bolt to change the cambelt?
With the 2.2, you don’t use the crank locking pin to lock the crank! The starter motor is removed and a locking plate screws into the starter mount bolt holes, with teeth that go into the starter ring - locking the crank that way. I have no idea what the procedure is on your engine.
For anyone else attempting this job, I completed it all successfully without any issues. The biggest problem was locating the hole and using the locking pin for the crank. I didn't want to remove the stater as that looked a big job. I bought a locking pin kit from ebay, and could just about see the hole for the flywheel timing point in the engine from underneath (get a good torch!). However, the angled locking pin was just slightly too big and wouldn't slide into the hole easily. I ended up using a 6mm allen key which worked well, but a 7mm bit of tube would work best.
The crank nut came off after I heated it with a heat gun and used a cheap corded impact wrench from amazon. I doubt I would have been able to get it off without the impact wrench and I would have had to remove the starter to lock the flywheel properly. I heated the face of the bolt to 200 degrees C. After removing, the shaft of the bolt was only 80 degrees, so it shouldn't have damaged the oil seal.
Replaced just over 4.5 litres of coolant after removing the water pump. I used the locking pins on the cam and crank, as well as put nail varnish on the belt, engine, crank and cam to make sure everything lined up properly after the initial turnover. All good!
The crank nut came off after I heated it with a heat gun and used a cheap corded impact wrench from amazon. I doubt I would have been able to get it off without the impact wrench and I would have had to remove the starter to lock the flywheel properly. I heated the face of the bolt to 200 degrees C. After removing, the shaft of the bolt was only 80 degrees, so it shouldn't have damaged the oil seal.
Replaced just over 4.5 litres of coolant after removing the water pump. I used the locking pins on the cam and crank, as well as put nail varnish on the belt, engine, crank and cam to make sure everything lined up properly after the initial turnover. All good!
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