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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, 1st post here. Great forum, loads of info, so I thought Id add mine in case its of help to anyone else.
Owned my first mondeo for 12 years and 199k til she finally died so have fond memories. Then I had a mid life crisis lol and bought a V6 2.5L Cougar, great fun and reccomended highly but 22 MPG was getting expensive, so have bought a 54 mk3 TDIC. Looked a beaut and drove lovely for 300 miles then on a warm start up the glow plug started flashing and I drove rather slowly to a mates garage. He hooked it up to his computer and it gave fault code P132B but he didnt know what it meant. After trawling the net I found its probably down to the Turbo, probably sticking vanes. Similar code P132A seems to be an electronic actuator fault but very similar results, ie Turbo will not boost. Looking at a grand for a turbo replacement I dug deeper and found loads of info, mostly Turbo related, but some others offered were injectors, cam sensors, fuel filters etc. However after watching my turbo on start up I could clearly see the actuator not working when hot.
Still going with the sticky vane theory I came across some stuff called Innotec which apparently dissolves all the soot and carbon build ups in the turbo. Looks good I thought and if you want to do half a job you dont even have to remove the turbo. So a phone call and 45 quid and it was with me next day. Excellent service I must say. However, because of the angle of the exhaust side of the Turbo you cant actually use this stuff without removing the turbo on Mondeos. Bugger !! Didnt tell me that on the phone lol. Ok I`ll whip it off I thought but after a quick look realised I needed to jack the car up to remove the cat, and me jacks are currently holding a vw T25 up so jobs on hold for mo.
By now Ive cracked and got the Cougar back on the road, so looked deeper again for more info and found that the black box on the turbo is subject to wires coming unsoldered, leading to the actuator arm not moving especially when hot. Even found a pic on this site showing a loose wire. Well, against all good advice even Ford, I removed the box and opened it up, and nothing fell out or exploded. Tidy. Have taken some photos and will try and add them at the end. And there on close inspection was a wire that was indeed loose. Now Im no expert but it just could be it, so the box is off to a specialist solderer in the morning for him to see what he can do and hopefully Ive cured it. I`ll update as soon as poss.
ps anyone want to buy an unused Innotec kit lol
Aha pics attached although they are too big so i had to crop them a bit. 1st is the inside of the electrical side with my loose wire circled in yellow. 2nd is the complete box showing both parts.
 

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Take the EGR off and clean that whilst your waiting for the actuator. people have posted pictures and they have been severely
restricted due to the gunk.

Messy job though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Purple Ive just been reading about it and am gonna have a go tomorrow. Got me gloves ready
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well got my mate to re-solder the connection eventually and nervous as hell Ive tried it and so far its all ok with several hot starts and a stall once (oops lol). Hopefully this has fixed my problem I`ll update this weekly if all ok or asap if it fails. Just goes to show that you can remove and open the box without too much drama.

To anyone reading this with Turbo faults, I`d advise you to check that the actuator arm moves forward when starting up. Its when it doesnt move that the coil light starts flashing.

A quick reply to Neo, its a specialist job soldering this, they use a lead free high temperature solder in manufacture. If you use normal solder theres the chance it will reach its melting point in normal everyday use being stuck on top of the Turbo. The wire isnt actually connected to the plate in the photo, theres a little pin in the centre of it which you have to solder it to. It took my mate 3 attempts to get it and he wont guarantee how long it`ll last, but hopefully we`ve identified the problem should it re-appear.

Good luck to everyone who has these problems. Drove me bonkers for the last week.
 

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MEG Corporal
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A quick reply to Neo, its a specialist job soldering this, they use a lead free high temperature solder in manufacture. If you use normal solder theres the chance it will reach its melting point in normal everyday use being stuck on top of the Turbo. The wire isnt actually connected to the plate in the photo, theres a little pin in the centre of it which you have to solder it to. It took my mate 3 attempts to get it and he wont guarantee how long it`ll last, but hopefully we`ve identified the problem should it re-appear.

Good luck to everyone who has these problems. Drove me bonkers for the last week.
This is the standard solder now sold as it's lead free, it's available in all sorts of places, in fact it's getting harder to find lead/tin solder which I prefer for some applications due to melting at a lower temperature. I've seen this internal picture twice now of different usints with the same wire being loose, probably worth checking before paying the guy on Ebay £200 for the same fix!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes Steve youre right about the solder, tho here in Wales there still seems to be a lot of old stuff about if you want some. I was more worried about how much heat it would take and for how long it would take me. Didnt want to risk burning the pcb out.

In fact mine was the wire next to the other persons, but it was his photo that alerted it to me. Yep the guy off ebay prob not too happyy we`re posting these pics lmao.
 

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Thats the great thing about sites like this, Helps people find the fault and stops people getting ripped off.

£200+ to solder a couple of joints.
 

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Big Megger
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Well, I've been down the P132B fault route and it means B for body - i.e. the turbo body, and probably is indicative of sticky vanes. P132A is the actuator - A for actuator.
The OP says the actuator was sticking when he tried it so how soldering a wire has fixed this is beyond me. If you're getting P132B be very careful. Check for blue smoke on startup cause I blew my engine after getting this fault code and then ignored it. It's thought the turbo oil seals gave up (after many months of blue smoke on startup), sucked the oil from the sump and caused conrods two and three to smash a dinner plate size hole in both sides of the sump.

Recon engine and turbo later (£906 + ££600 fitting) everything's sweet, and there's no more blue smoke. But all my woes began with a P132B fault and flashing glow plug. Beware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your observations Rad I willl keep a good eye on my exhaust smoke from now.

You didnt mention tho, did you keep driving it with the glow plug flashing when you said you just ignored it, or did you get the fault code cleared and carried on driving with no flashing light ??. This is important because I wouldnt have kept driving it with an obvious fault. I parked mine up asap whenever the light came on. Surely if, like you say, you think the turbo seals were kaput, this would have activated a fault code permanently ? This is important info mate we need the answer please.

The reasons I think it was a loose wire are :-

1. - My actuator arm moves very freely with no signs of sticking or catching on anything. I disconnected it from the actuator unit to see how easily it moved before I did anything else, because I expected my vanes to be sticking, and have heard that in most cases you will feel resistance when moving the arm manually.

2.- The loose wire I had transfers power to the other half of the box (mechanical side) via 2 posts to the right of it. Now to my mind, if theres no power going to the mechanical part of the arm how can the arm move ?? Thus, would this not then show up as a B fault because the vanes wont open or close on start up ?

I`m no expert so Im hoping this all makes sense, but so far all still going well. No more flashing glow plug and engine kicks like a mule when turbo boosts
 

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MEG Corporal
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Thanks for your observations Rad I willl keep a good eye on my exhaust smoke from now.

You didnt mention tho, did you keep driving it with the glow plug flashing when you said you just ignored it, or did you get the fault code cleared and carried on driving with no flashing light ??. This is important because I wouldnt have kept driving it with an obvious fault. I parked mine up asap whenever the light came on. Surely if, like you say, you think the turbo seals were kaput, this would have activated a fault code permanently ? This is important info mate we need the answer please.

The reasons I think it was a loose wire are :-

1. - My actuator arm moves very freely with no signs of sticking or catching on anything. I disconnected it from the actuator unit to see how easily it moved before I did anything else, because I expected my vanes to be sticking, and have heard that in most cases you will feel resistance when moving the arm manually.

2.- The loose wire I had transfers power to the other half of the box (mechanical side) via 2 posts to the right of it. Now to my mind, if theres no power going to the mechanical part of the arm how can the arm move ?? Thus, would this not then show up as a B fault because the vanes wont open or close on start up ?

I`m no expert so Im hoping this all makes sense, but so far all still going well. No more flashing glow plug and engine kicks like a mule when turbo boosts
Hi fookey and congrats on your fix..good work and thanks for sharing this with us ..its soo important to have this positive info and helps others enormously when trying to diagnose and fix these expensive motors .imagine in another scenario somebody going to a garage and having to have a turbo fitted at cost of around a grand and all for the sake of a little wire being soldered . code readers read spurious codes and are often giving vague indications of what the actual problem is and alsq the person using the reader has to be able to decipher the code and one code can have many conatations and many side tracks to the actual reason the code was set in the first place..anyway im sure you have hit on the correct fix and i wish you good motoring and thanks again for your valuable input it will be very helpful to others im certain of that ...s
 

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Big Megger
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[quote name='1flooky' timestamp='1312478556' post='1777892']
Thanks for your observations Rad I willl keep a good eye on my exhaust smoke from now.

You didnt mention tho, did you keep driving it with the glow plug flashing when you said you just ignored it, or did you get the fault code cleared and carried on driving with no flashing light ??. This is important because I wouldnt have kept driving it with an obvious fault. I parked mine up asap whenever the light came on. Surely if, like you say, you think the turbo seals were kaput, this would have activated a fault code permanently ? This is important info mate we need the answer please.

The glow plug light on mine would flash if I booted it in 3rd or 4th after I hit 2,500rpm. Turn it off and on and again and it there was no glow light anymore. The glow light will in my experience always turn off in this fashion, it's the EML (engine managment light) that stays on if there's a prob.
My problem was I needed a car for work and ferrying kids and ironically it was actually due in the garage the next day for a new turbo before the damn thing blew and took the engine as well. Still, it's never run better and is doing a true 57mpg on motorway runs if I keep at 75mph - 62 on the rubbish trip computer.
 

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I thought i had replied to this thread?

There is no sensor for the turbo body, I think the A and B code is A for a fault in th actuator circuit boost level or faulty board and
B for a faulty motor controlling the actuator arm.

I doubt you would get a fault code for a worn turbo either, If the seals are leaking it would be burning more oil. But unless its leaking
a lot of boost i cant see how it would give a fault code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Rad thanks for the info, thats another good tip for folks to watch out for. Since you mentioned the blue smoke Ive been driving everywhere looking backwards I was a bit worried but seems ok luckily.

On mine the glow plug light would start flashing on start up and wouldnt go off if I restarted, only if left for a long length of time, ie overnight,

Luckily 300 miles later Im still going with no more probs, but still nervous every time I start it up in case it comes back.
 

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Big Megger
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Purple - Clogged vanes so choked they affect operation of the actuator would throw a P132B to indicate a turbo 'body' fault. This is what I was told by the Delphi specialist who reconned my injectors anyhow.
 

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Yeah thats what i was thinking, B code is movement of the arm/motor fault. Where A code would be boost pressure not as expected or
a fault in the actuator itself.

What we need is an easy method to clean the vanes without removing the exhaust or turbo unit.

Wonder / Snake oils and sprays that are supposed to clean by prayer need not apply.
 

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1. - My actuator arm moves very freely with no signs of sticking or catching on anything. I disconnected it from the actuator unit to see how easily it moved before I did anything else, because I expected my vanes to be sticking, and have heard that in most cases you will feel resistance when moving the arm manually.
I have a similar issue and I tried this. When cold the arm was quite stiff at a certain point in its travel, so I 'worked it' for a bit to try and free it up.. It was still stif when I hooked it back up.

It went in to limp mode while it was still cold, so I pulled over and restarted to reset it.. then it seemed fine..

When I got back and with the engine hot, the arm moves very freely..

I lost the retaining clip though !! Anyone know what they are called? Can I just replace it with a circlip, or wont that be big enough?
 

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Circlip or C-clip. As long as it fits it will be fine. It is not under a lot of pressure.

I had the same issue the turbo was carboned up. 4 days in the parts washers cleaned it nicely.

Dont bother looking at spray cleaners and snake oil fixes, If you see the pictures i tool of the internals there is no way to get
the vanes cleaned properly without removing the turbo.

Maybe possible to strip whilst on the car but you risk dropping and losing small parts.
 

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I know this is an old link but found it extremely useful. Done 3k in my recent 2005 and experienced glow plug light coming on after I'd driven and stopped for 10 mins, driving off (in limp home) for a few minutes and light went out, however started coming on when in traffic and then solidly. Diags said the actuator, looked at this link and tied in, loose wire but still touching plate - stopping car/traffic allowed heat to rise and guess the loose wire just bent away a tad.

Anyway took unit apart and didn't realise how soft the wires were as my hamfisted broke away the wires! anyway I tried soldering using lead free but it wouldn't bond and ended up using my old solder. Its working but the unit gets very hot left standing so looking for better repair. I reckon the wires are originally heat welded on (thats the "pin" someone mentioned - the remains of the weld. I did wonder about covering soldered joint in epoxy but wary that will be the end of the unit if the joint separates underneath, will also try thin insulation mat between actuator and supporting plate. I also wondered about installing an old PC fan nearby to waft air around!

Might sound like I'm being cheap, I'm not and would happily pay a bit for a permanent repair and not sure this is.

Anyone else had any more long term experiience on this?

Paul
 
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