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Bmw, s dont regan enough they have had problems with it cloging up and burning a hole in the dpf and then catching the car on fire I saw one the other day go up on the m25 sparks and flames coming out of the exhust then he pulled over then the engine bay went up.

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At the moment i'm using Dipetane in the tank. it's suppose to improve mpg by up to 10%. It's early days but so far it could be working. The makers state this it's used by Coke Cola Ireland in all of there fleet. Also it reduces the about of soot coming out of the tail pipe as well.
 

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Bmw, s dont regan enough they have had problems with it cloging up and burning a hole in the dpf and then catching the car on fire I saw one the other day go up on the m25 sparks and flames coming out of the exhust then he pulled over then the engine bay went up.

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That's not 100% true, the BMW that burnt to a crisp was a X5 3.0D and it was found that leaking oil from the recently serviced turbo was to blame. Independent investigations also suggested that it would be possible with unburnt diesel fuel from failing injectors too. A DPF collects carbon only under normal conditions... Try setting that alight lol. It could happen to any car under those circumstances.

Also, the BMW regen is fine but if there are any faults such as MAF, Injector or pratically anything else to do with the core running of the engine, regen will be disabled until these faults have been resolved (because it cannot acheive optimum conditions).

This is what ultimately causes issues, most common are the injectors, MAF and glow plug control units though as they can be faulty but do not give warnings.

Mine had a MAF fault, didn't give any warnings etc. It was only when BMW put it on diagnostics they discovered the issue. Unfortunately by then the DPF needed replacing as it hadn't run a regen for some time and a faulty injector just made the problem even worse (which is why it was on diagnostics in the firstplace).

Chemical treatment was an option (not offered by BMW of course), but fortunately it was under warranty.

On the other hand, we do have a 2004 530D we use as a workhorse in Europe which has just done 205,000 miles on all of it's original components and it's still trucking. To drive it, comparing it to the other one, you wouldn't know it hadn't done anything over 100k. Good build quality and excellent materials means the interior is barely showing ware and it handles like it always has done too. No rust or anything either unlike the E39s.

If it wasn't for the expensive spares and complicated electronics I would advise anyone to purchase one lol... But I still strongly recommend a good modern petrol engine over any diesel if you want reliability.
 

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As I said, oil or fuel in the DPF has been known to cause this issue... For all brands of cars with DPFs fitted lol.

A DPF runs at 500-600c, dump unburnt fuel on to it and of course it will burn.

IF it was purely a DPF 'thing' then we would have thousands upon thousands of cases in the first year of production. But it's not, it's a combination of issues resulting in these fires.

There's a recent case of a BMW 335D with under 20k in the UK that went up in flames that people said "DPF! DPF!" but when the owner was asked where he saw the fire start from, it was the powersteering pump. A leak on to the hot engine had caused the fire, unfortunately the insurance didn't pay out though as apparently it was not 'correctly maintained' by the owner.
 

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My cousin's zefera went up the same way lost a bit of power then after a few miles the engine bay went up he had a look after it was out and found a big hole in the dpf before that it had been fine plenty of long trips up the motorway.
That bmw I saw go up was mad flames sparks black smoke out of the exhaust then up it went.

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Anything that gets that hot on a car can cause problems, directly or indirectly. I've seen combined dpf and cat assembly's on Peugeot vans (at work ) need replaced because the Honeycomb had gotten blocked and the garage tech forced a regeneration. They all had sparks flying from under the vans. Seemed to fail pretty safe though, apparently the regens aborted when I believe pressure differential must have changed too rapidly for the computers liking.

Anyone remember in the early 90 s when there were fires caused by brake fluid flashing on hot exhaust manifolds? Combination of fluid spec and the reservoir being easily damaged in a collision.

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Done about 80 miles since putting Forte Gold standard diesel treatment in, and I can say for definite that the smoking has reduced and it sounds a little less lumpy at idle. Unfortunately I can't say for sure whether it was this that did it as I did an oil and filter change the day before aswell as a mr muscle turbo clean.
 

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I have just put some flashlube diesel additiive in mine as recommended by a mechanic friend for its lubricating properties, It could be snake oil or it could do some good who knows for sure with these things ?, up until now I have used a bottle of Redex diesel every six months coupled with not letting the tank get below a quarter full and changing the fuel filter every 18 months the old girl now has 171K on the clock and I'm just doing what I can to keep her going. It may be helpful, it may not but it makes me feel as if I am doing what I can to keep things in order, It may be a placebo effect but half a tank has gone through now and she definitely seems a little quieter and a bit more responsive.
 

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I use Liquimoly products. They have couple of products for engine and injector cleaning. I use cleaning aditive for common rail once a year.
My friends used their dizel purge for various VW engines. Difference is how you use it. Diesel purge you use directly (strip house from filter and put it in bottle with cleaning agent). Diesel cleaning aditive you add to fuel tank.
I have seen engines that sounded like tractors but after treatment were noticeably smoother.
So highly recommended. You can check it on youtube
 

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I used Redline SI-1 petrol (only) inj cleaner and got an almost instant 4mpg gain.....the diif between petrol and diesel will be in the carrier liquid/fuel...ie..heavier hydrocarbons for the diesel versions......this was the best so far ..used redex,,,stp before and little to no effect...bear in mind my car went without a clean for 35k miles on reg unleaded...with the 5% ethanol ..it will gum things up...Comma D-Tox and Archoil AR6400 contain the same apparently super cleaning ingredient Poly ether amine...so it works if things are gummed up....clean as a whistle> then no change.

If I had a DI engine I would also be using an intake/intake valve cleaner..as the EGR and pvc system can coke the intake valves....diesel EGR valves are notorious for clogging up....leave one for 40k miles and see how you get on...
 

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Ford are recommending against using any induction service product on their eco boost Di engines. This is what has been passed from Ford to dealerships, at least in the US. Ford Ecoboost Warning Part 2 My Findings:

Unless your injectors are dirty to the point it effects performance then there won't be any permanent performance or mpg gain from injector cleaners. There may be a difference in mpg while the product is in the fuel tank but as soon as it's used that would disappear. Same with induction system cleaning, catalytic Converter cleaners etc, if they're dirty and the product is actually capable of cleaning what it says it is then you may see a difference. If your engine is clean enough already you'll see no gain apart from the "artificial" mpg gain from any Dipetane like substances it contains, unless you're into looking at piston crowns with a bore scope.

I've used millers in my mondeo and if I'm really honest it's made no difference what so ever. I usually run Shell fuel save anyway, which has a typical cetane rating of around 54-55. Perhaps there would be a difference when using fuels with a lower cetane rating, though any diesel engine should run well on a Bs590 51 cetane fuel. If it doesn't then it's the car manufacturers fault not the fuel.

When it comes to additives I'm keeping my money in my pocket.
 

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not my findings at all BunkerMan...the +4mpg never declined as you say its still at 38mpg from 33.9 and I had to drive like a cissy to get that in fact I'm on 42.5 mpg atm after a long drive down to Darlington and back to pick a Mini OnE for my brother...averaged 47.5mpg

..intake valves can get badly gummed up with DI as the fuel cannot clean them...google UK forums +intake valves and read the other forums...

Ford also recommend that I unilaterally use Castrol lubricants and fluids??

its quite simple ..if things are dirty ..they need a clean ...if they are clean ..they do not...so the question then is 'when do you know its dirty? that can really only be answered by using a good product...if there is no change..then your system is clean...but I had the opposite experience...it was dirty and I couldn't find that out til I used the cleaner....absolutely no decline in mpg since...I use BP ultimate before and after
 

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not my findings at all BunkerMan...the +4mpg never declined as you say its still at 38mpg from 33.9 and I had to drive like a cissy to get that in fact I'm on 42.5 mpg atm after a long drive down to Darlington and back to pick a Mini OnE for my brother...averaged 47.5mpg
..intake valves can get badly gummed up with DI as the fuel cannot clean them...google UK forums +intake valves and read the other forums...

Ford also recommend that I unilaterally use Castrol lubricants and fluids??

its quite simple ..if things are dirty ..they need a clean ...if they are clean ..they do not...so the question then is 'when do you know its dirty? that can really only be answered by using a good product...if there is no change..then your system is clean...but I had the opposite experience...it was dirty and I couldn't find that out til I used the cleaner....absolutely no decline in mpg since...I use BP ultimate before and after
Im aware of how a direct inject petrol,car works. I'm also well aware of the issues regarding carbon fouling. In fact I've recommended people avoid the SCI 1.8 on here for that very reason.

There's a difference between recommending fluids,and recommending not to add what is basically a fuel ( the cleaner) to an engines intake that isn't designed to be fuelled through the intake.

The video above (if anyone watched it) is specific to the Eco boost lineup and there's no reason why it isn't a valid warning. A di Eco boost has high ish compression and a turbo charger. By performing an induction service you rob the engine of its ability to control its own fuelling. The engine is designed to run on precise and sometimes multiple injections at thousands of psi, not something getting sucked through the intake.

They wouldn't advise against it with this specific engine just for the sake of it. Many ford dealerships offer induction servicing and make Good money from it.

In over thirteen years I've never had a fuel economy gain that actually stuck around longer than. Additive leaving the tank. Trust me I've had some crappy and miss treated cars... I'm not saying that if something isn't dirty that it can't happen though.

There's dirt and there's performance hampering deposits. Personally I'd rather use a good quality fuel than spend on additives, but that's just me. I'm not worried about a little dirt and I keep an eye on performance. It's the inside of an engine,not my kitchen, and as long as it's not excessive then a small amount of build up is fine by me.

I take subjective and trip computer mpg with a pinch of salt. Gains of less than ten percent can quickly be had with warmer weather, different driving style, traffic, who you get stuck behind etc. so many variables that it's impossible to judge.

Additives are like religion. You either believe in the magic omnipotent sky fairy or you don't. If someone has faith that the £5 - £20 additive will work then that's up to them. I've had success using Cataclean before. I wouldn't do as they advise though and treat the car every three months.

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