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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I'll try and keep from waffling too much but I want to be as detailed as I can on this main post.
For some background, my car (2005 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI) had been on limp mode since I bought it in early December. This turned out to be because someone had removed the injectors (likely for cleaning) and reinserted them in the wrong order and all I had to do was recode the injectors in the new order, good as new (shoutout to those on TF who helped me through that!) Note, I didn't get round to performing a leak off test and it seemed my injectors were all happy once they were coded in the right order.

Before and since then, I've been flushing the fuel system with Red X fuel system cleaner with night and day results (strongly recommended).
On the day it spluttered to a halt on the motorway (misfire + smoke then complete shut-off. no restart), and for 2 days prior, the car was unhappy at idle (RPM would vary by about 10 0rpm or so constantly, something I put down to the loose alternator belt causing a variation in engine load) and it became much easier to stall.
As far as I could tell from city driving, there wasn't any power loss or hesitation at any speed above 1.3k ish rpm.

On about my 3rd overtake on the motorway (55ish to 70) at full throttle and max boost the miss firing and subsequent cut off occurred.
Bear in mind this was the third time (all 3 in the same 10 min window) that this car has been at max power and max throttle since at least early December 2021 when I bought it.

After getting a tow home, I plugged my tunnel rat into my laptop and got codes P2291 and P0251, both on my Powertrain Control Module reporting low fuel pressure (see photos attached).
After recharging my battery (ran out trying to crank and stay warm on the motorway), I went back out today and managed to hit the 250 rpm crank speed needed to start but my Fuel Rail Pressure was a measly 435 PSI peak (30 bar) and just 87 PSI (6 bar) when the ignition is on. Again, see the pics attached of my OBD ll scanner

Returning to my point of failure and the months leading up to this, this car had been in limp mode for god knows how long and probably never had any sort of injector cleaner or fuel system cleaner in it at all and god only knows when the fuel filter was last changed.
This leads me to believe that giving her the beans with the Red X flushing the system meant that I dislodged some goop in the system that has subsequently blocked up my fuel filter of unknown age. Something Forscan lists as a potential cause.

Alternatively, given the recent poor idle I mentioned previously, my high-pressure pump might have given up the ghost when it was at max pressure. Hopefully not but we can't rule it out...

I'm more than happy to hear other people's suggestions as to the root cause and I appreciate your ideas.
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Little Megger
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Hi, wot, you again?? Thought we'd sorted you out!
Some thoughts then..... do you know that those codes are fresh ones? Have you cleared the errors and seen the same ones return.
Then... you should consider changing the fuel filter if you dont know how old it is.
One useful test of how much pressure the pump is delivering, is to disconnect the injectors and the IMV (on the back of the pump) then monitor the frp whilst cranking, but don't crank for more than 30 secs at a time (the starter motor is quite delicate)
A good pump should deliver a min of 1000 bar!
Any less, could be a tired pump, might also be an injector that is leaky and is leaching the pressure. A leakoff test will certainly help here! Have you got yourself a leakoff test kit yet? £20 ish, .. I'd do a pressure test 1st as you don't need any external kit, then do a leakoff test next. Then let us know the results. Incidentally, when your car cuts out, just coast along and cycle the ignition key to clear the error, (if at night, the headlights will go out, but don't panic!) then restart it (don't bump start it! - the timing chain might jump a tooth!)
Any Qq? s... just ask!
btw, a leakoff test is this:
30secs at idle followed by
30secs @3krpm followed by
30secs @idle followed by
30secs at 3krpm followed by
30secs @idle followed by
30secs @3krpm followed by
30secs @idle
Max leakoff around 25-30 ml
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, wot, you again?? Thought we'd sorted you out!
I'm afraid so, back at it again with a fuelling issue!

I've cleared the errors and they've returned and I have a new filter on the way (I was going to do it last month but I've been putting it off.)
As for the pressure test, I've seen other threads mentioning the same thing. Should I try that before or after I change the filter?

I was in the overtaking late at the time it died so I had to bail quick (plus I thought the timing chain had gone) but if it ever happens again I'll try your trick and cross my fingers!
 

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Little Megger
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Yeah, just press in the clutch, coast and turn key to position 1, and restart.
I'd do a leak off straight away! But make sure you cap the disconnected leakoff pipes! Else you get an airlock which will circulate through the fuel filter and cause you grief! (been there, had grief...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh boy I can imagine, I saw another thread where someone did that and it looked to cause him a lotta hurt.
Fuel filter is not like to be here before the next weekend so I'll be without answers for a while, pain...
 

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Little Megger
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You can still do a pump pressure test anytime!... Bought a leakoff test kit yet?
You need one with these blue/purple connectors, not the brass ones. You only need 4, some clear tubing - aquarium tubing will do - and bottles - I bought some hamster water bottles for mine. I bought my connector from my local diesel engineer company, but I bet you'll find 'em on ebay. You need the little white caps on them too... You need them to cap off the disconnected leak-off pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll put an order in now, thanks for the link!

Is there a way I can perform a leak off test without a running car and/or with my woeful fuel pressure? She's a non-starter at the moment.

As for my pumps, I know that my cranking FRP is waaaay too low (30 bar) but I don't know what my priming pressure should be? Currently 6 bar sustained with the ignition on.

I hope that I can pindown which pump (lift or high pressure) is the culprit by looking at these numbers, assuming they are at fault here.
 

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Yes you can leakoff test without the engine running. You crank the engine over and measure the distance the
fuel travels up the pipes.

Any fuel in the fuel filter or is it dry? Any fuel in the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
with only 30 bar would I get reliable results still? I guess if one is so buggered I'm getting such low pressure it would make sense still. How far should I expect to see it travel? or am I looking for one that stands out?

I haven't taken the filter out yet, new one is en route. Still have a quarter tank and I am getting some pressure so I guess that would rule out a faulty fuel gauge?
 

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Little Megger
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hope that I can pindown which pump (lift or high pressure) is the culprit by looking at these numbers, assuming they are at fault here.

There isn't a lift pump... just the one pump that has a low and a high pressure section.
You could have one bad injector that is taking all the pressure, it's a pity that there is no way to cap off the ports on the common rail so as to eliminate the injectors when testing the high pressure pump. There's a YouTube vid where someone cut and silver soldered the ends of some cut pipes to be able to blank off the common rail ports in order to eliminate the injectors and test the pressure from the pump. Ingenious.
 

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Little Megger
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with only 30 bar would I get reliable results still? I guess if one is so buggered I'm getting such low pressure it would make sense still. How far should I expect to see it travel? or am I looking for one that stands out?

I haven't taken the filter out yet, new one is en route. Still have a quarter tank and I am getting some pressure so I guess that would rule out a faulty fuel gauge?
Read this especially reply #9 from Peter Scott. It explains how to do a static leakoff test.
 

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Little Megger
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Also, re the lift pump...... cross-referencing those Ford part numbers with Google, all 'hits' include the TDCi 2.2....!?
The way to resolve this for sure is to go on catcar.info, enter your vin, and browse thro' the diagrams of parts specifically for your car. Most of us on here have experience of the 2litre TDCi, not the 2.2. Do let us know what you find for future reference!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, min is the 2005 2.0 Duratorq TDCi model, not the 2.2.
Thanks for the link, I'll save his comment for when the test kit arrives.
Looks like others have had luck replacing the filter but I'll be sure to cut it open and look for filings when the replacement finally arives
 

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Little Megger
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No, if you have a 2.0, not a 2.2 (I must be confusing you with another current thread...) then you DO NOT have a lift pump.
 

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never seen a 2.0 or 2.2 with any other pump than the high pressure pump on the engine, ive had both cars and worked on a few too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I see under your posts you mention your '2002 TDCi Ghia X mk3' which is exactly what I have, all be it, from 2005.

When your pump went bang, assuming that's why you're transplanting it, what were the symptoms leading up to it?
I had rough idle and it was easy to stall in the days leading up to the no-pressure situation I'm in now, does that match what happened to you?
 
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