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Little Megger
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Well, if no codes then really check carefully the pipes from turbo through to inlet manifold. The usual one is the one that gets the hottest! Don't spray it, just squeeze it, bend it - even remove it to check underneath it. The rubber is lined with a mesh which holds any splits together until boost pressure forces open the split so you're not looking for anything obvious.
 

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Super Moderator
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I remember someone said their boost pipe was fine and they had a really good look all around it but after
the fault persisted they removed the pipe and found a small split you coul just slot a 50p coin into.

At low pressures it will not make a huge difference but as mentioned when it starts pushing 15 - 20 psi
that soon opens and your boost escapes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
I've done some more browsing on this forum and I see other people having misfire under load with dirty EGRs or split tubing as you said.
I've also seen people opt to blank their EGRs instead of replacing them. What effect does this have on the performance and drivability?
 

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No difference to performance or driveability. You may notice it takes a little longer to warmup.

Bonus is no more sticky soot to clog up the EGR and the inlet.
 

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Little Megger
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But mot fail if they spot it has been blanked...
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Yeah, I was wondering if they would fail me on that. That's not until November so I'm not bothered.
Do you have any recommendations for blanking plates? I've seen quite a few threads where cheap ones don't seal properly
 

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Little Megger
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Avoid aluminium ones if you can... also, the thicker the better, have you looked at the boost pipes yet?
I think if it's a euro 4, it will put the eml on, but on a euro 3 it doesn't. To get around this, they put a small hole in the blanking plate. If you're a euro 3, and the egr is vacuum operated, then pulling the vacuum tube off and putting a screw in the open end of the tube to maintain the vacuum to the other things that are supplied, ie, turbo and brake
servo,.. then that is the same as blanking the egr.
PURPLE, IS THIS CORRECT?
 

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I Love Diesel
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In my experience, Euro 3 can (will) still throw a fault code eventually. It can happen days after you've blanked the EGR, or months after. I think it depends on the way the planets are aligned.

There was some talk on here a while ago about blanking the EGR causing premature turbo wear/failure. If you google it, it's discussed on several car forums, but AFAIK it's inconclusive and dismissed as coincidence by many. Blanking the EGR is a great way of trouble-shooting, anyway, even if it's just temporary.

Plugging the vacuum pipe is ok, as long as the EGR valve isn't stuck open.
 

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Plugging the vacuum pipe as a test will fail if the valve is partially open or leaking. Thats why a steel blanking
plate 2mm thick is the preferred option. If you dont want to run with a blanking plate thats fine but it eliminated the
EGR almost entirely. If it cures the issue you can leave blanked or delve deeper into why the EGR is causing the
issue.

No change then its not the EGR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Alright, I'll order an EGR plate now. Seeing as I have a Euro 3 (no electrical connector on EGR), am I right in saying I don't want a hole in the middle at all?
I'll give all the rubber pipes a good once over whilst I'm there
 

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Yeah if the code comes up you can just clear it, and correct no hole, the hole needs to be almost as
big as the pipe anyway which make the plate useless.

Its a strange one some get the engine light on very quickly and others may never get the light on
or a long time down the road.
 

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These used to be a couple of £. Guess postage prices and the cost of everything going up does not
help. 1.5mm thick but it is stainless so should last a good length of time.

Which version do you get? maybe both? You want the one without the hole. As long as your EGR is front mounted
not at the rear it will fit.

If you can wait a day or two I may have one. I gave one to a member who popped over but think I had 2?
Cannot remember if it was aluminium or steel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
I messaged the guy and managed to score the last of the 3mm stainless plates. (ill paste a pic)
This might be a dumb question, but if my EGRvalved is seized do I need to block off the vaccum pipe or will the plate be enough regardless of the EGR's health?
 

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If the valve is seized it maybe partially open so pulling the vacuum may do nothing.

The plate eliminates the valve completely, no exhaust gas will pass through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Alright, so I dont need t worry about vacuum lines or the state and health of the EGR when banking it?
I'll give my injectors a test and my charge pipes a good inspection also while im there
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
Well, you were half right, except it's not a craked boost pipe it's a severed vacuum line!
I have no idea how I've never noticed it and I only have photos of the engine bay since my original breakdown (it's snapped in half in there too).
Since I'm blanking off my EGR anyways, is it worth replacing the hose (as far as I can see it only goes from EGR to inlet manifold) or should I just bung the hole and leave the hose as is?
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