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Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and found it very useful in many many ways. Thanks to contributors who take time to read and help others for small bits or big issues.

Here I come to the point. I bought a nice 2004 mk3 estate about a month ago, 2.0 TDCi. I knew I had to reniew the discs and pads (x4).

Ok, car hasn't been on the road for a few weeks before I buy it, so there was quite a few knockings round the front and rear suspensions.

I've changed the 4 discs and pads, took the car to MOT and it flew the test no prob. Now, I could still here knockings and clings when driving above bumps, especially on bad roads. So I decided car could do with new shocks all around and new springs for the rear as the front ones seemed ok to my opinion. I purchased the parts from a Ford dealer shop and started with changing the front shocks. I did the work in 2 days (about 4 hours each side). BTW I'm doing the work myself and I'm not a mechanic.

The front suspensions are now perfect. Brakes are brilliant. Then I started to work on the rear today. And there comes the troubles!

Jacked up the vehicle and securely put it on an unusal stand for more security as when I noticed what work I was involved in, I did not trust the 3 ton stands! So I put a 13 kg gas bottle Under the crossmember right in the middle. with the left rear Wheel on a solid ramp. Beleive me it works well to secure the car 100% as it is solid and won't move a mm... I think it is Worth taking a picture to show on here. Will try and do that tomorrow.

I removed the right spring, then opened and removed the lower shock bolt, opened the lower arm-to-knuckle bolt and started to undo the anti-roll bar drop link bolt from the lower arm and that one wouldn't come off, it even nearly broke my alen key! So I decided to undo it from the anti-roll bar, which I succesfully did. But, because the drop link got stuck in the lower arm, not being able to remove the bolt, I opened the eccentric bolt on the crossmember so as to remove the rear lower arm... It was so tight that it took me an hour to get the nut out of there! Very hard job and very tired at the end.

So, can anyone advise me on what I should do next, please? Should I get a new eccentric bolt and nut although the old one looks OK but very very hard to have it turning in the bolt? Third question, I haven't had a look at the upper shock absorber bolt yet. Any idea if, having removed the rear lower arm, it will be easier to remove or, will I have to face another nightmare to get it out of there? I'm stuck and don't know what to do...

Apologies for being very long this time but I really really needed to ask the right people and, I beleive this is the right place to do it.

Thank you for your kind assistance

Younes
 

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Why are you trying to remove the antiroll bar and the concentric nuts that adjust the

suspension geometry?

Removing the shock is a case of jacking it up with some compression on the spring

on the side your removing the shock from. you dont want the suspension hanging.

Then in typical haynes fashion ( simply ) undo the lower bolt and then undo the

top bolt and remove the shock. The lower bolt is easy enough the top bolt is restricted

access and a good selection of spanners at different angles may help.

If changing the springs as well then swap it with the shock removed. You need to let the

spring platform drop after removing the shock. Compress the spring (avoid cheap

spring compressors ) Remove the bump stop then remove the spring.
 

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As purple says to undo the top shock mount you need a magic spanner set, Iv still yet to do mine, there isn't much on the net regarding a fool proof way, I did find this last night, post number 8

http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/144433-self-levelling-rear-shock-swap/

I tried last time and the exhaust was in the way on the one side, it was cold and horrible and I'd already done the rear brakes and hubs so gave in lol! Going to pick up a short ring spanner and a long offset one and see how I get on.
 

· Little Megger
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There's been some posts on TF about removing that top bolt on the estate rear shock;it's a right pig, apparently. I'd renew the bolts, but that's me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your quick reply. I tried to remove the anti-roll bar drop link as specified in haynes for mk2 estates as did not find any for mk3:

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.

2 Support the weight of the rear lower arm

beneath the coil spring position with a trolley

jack.

3 Fit the coil spring compressor tool (ensuring

that it is fully engaged), and compress the coil

spring until all tension is relieved from the

upper mounting.

4 Unscrew the nut, and remove the washer

and bush attaching the anti-roll bar link to the

rear lower arm.

5 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the

rear lower arm to the knuckle (see

illustration).

6 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the

front lower arm to the knuckle (see

illustration).

7 Lower the rear lower arm, and withdraw the

coil spring from under the vehicle. Take care

to keep the compressor tool in full

engagement with the coil spring (see

illustration...

But, because the antiroll nut failed to unscrew (alen damaged even with using facom alen key) I thought of removing the lower arm. I might have done a mistake but now it's done and need to remove the top bolt of shock when I find the strentgh to do it. I just had a chat with a ford mechanic on the phone and he said access to the bolt is a normal 18 spanner. I'll check that...

Anyway thanks and I'll follow your advice for the left side.

Any other avice will be more than welcome

Younes
 

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Was he reading a haynes manual whilst instructing you? :)

simply remove and refitting is the reverse of removal are 2 items that embed

fear into your brain at the mere thought.

They often forget to mention that simply remove is OK if you cut the car in half and

have it on a bench. And refitting involves the same skill as getting a fully grown

elephant into your shopping bag and onto the bus.

And it has to be the bus because after 3 days of trying it still wont simply refit....

PS. I should mention getting a haynes manual is worth it :D

Lots of useful titbits in there.
 

· Little Megger
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I'm out n about so can't do a proper TF search atm, but think both wheels should be suspended to take tension off arb. Think that's relevant for rear as well as front wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was he reading a haynes manual whilst instructing you? :)

simply remove and refitting is the reverse of removal are 2 items that embed

fear into your brain at the mere thought.

They often forget to mention that simply remove is OK if you cut the car in half and

have it on a bench. And refitting involves the same skill as getting a fully grown

elephant into your shopping bag and onto the bus.

And it has to be the bus because after 3 days of trying it still wont simply refit....

PS. I should mention getting a haynes manual is worth it :D

Lots of useful titbits in there.

Hi, thanks for your reply.

I don't know how to really understand but I did find that in a haynes manual for Ford Mondeo Estate.

I need to find out how to upload the manual in here, it might help someone out there.

In the mean time I will come back with some pics because this afternoon I managed to put the new rear right shock in place :)

So, will come back later, cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good evening all,

Been busy again all day but never forgot to have my cup of tea in between for a quick releif. Tea does work and better if you add some Ginger in it.

Here are some pictures, at last. BTW, all this is happening in France. But it doesn't make any difference, does it?

One tip is to never give up (haven't finished yet though).

When you at last manage to remove the shock absorber, if this one has been there for 5 years like mine, you will find that the bolt and nut are rusty, enough to make you think you're gonna buy a new one. One simple solution is to soak them in a bit of hydrochloric acid. Then the chemistry does its magic work and the bolt and nut are brand new again. So, from completely rusty and ready to go in the bin to completely as new and ready to fit. 5 minutes is enough for them to soak. I did that will all the nuts and bolts and they're all like brand new again. And of cource they work better and turn like magic. The little white brake seal is still in place in the tread and locks well enough. I added a tiny bit of Red Loctite in the bottom bolt for more efficiency.

Car had Monroe original shock absorbers that have been renewed in 2010 according to the service history book. So they're 5 years old and 60,000 miles... I'm replacing with new Ford dealer shocks, I like the original parts for peace of mind, but I'm sure good aftermarket parts would do as well.

Please have a look at my Strange "stand" and let me know what you think :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW the red stands aren't holding anything, I just put them there "just in case" but beleive me car is 100% secure.

Because I removed the rear lower arm, I have cleaned it as the spring location looked like if there were pig drops there... lol. So cleaned everything out and sanded as much as I could with a drill sanding metal brush. Then I applied a good coat of anti-rust then painted the arm with metal black paint. It's drying in my shed.

Hopefully, tomorrow will receive the drop-links and will start refitting the arm and the new spring which is a genuine Ford part too.

Thank you for reading this topic. I was seeking help and still do. Now this can be helpfull for someone and I'll be more than happy to help and explain what and how I did the job. Please note I'm not a mechanic but just try to follow "instructions" of how-to. I was quoted £820 to have the 4 shocks done at France's Halfords equivalent (Norauto) and without the springs!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Burnzybubbles, for the rear shocks, it's 15 and 18 spanners: 15 for the bolt, 18 for the nut. 18 must be a long curved one (don't know the name but could picture it). Gas bottle, what else?

@arcon, yeah you're absolutely right. Especially when I tried remove the left hand side one this afternoon: top bolt wouldn't come off. And I thought of heating up as well but sadly there's no access to that b***y nut! Too rusty... I've got time tomorrow and will try a hand made tool. Basically I'll be using a solid roofbar that I normally use as a breaker bar for my Trooper or other bits. I made from it a sort of "fork" which I'll be fixing the 15 mm spanner in. Then with a trolley jack I'll be forcing that bar upwards so hopefully it will make the nut turn (if not raise the vehicle). So for that point, I will be working up the jack from outside just in case the car starts raising up and I don't want to take any risk. If it works then hurrah! If it doesn't, then will have to take it to my local garage, just a few yards from home.

Will update tomorrow
 

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What tools did you use for the rear shocks?

Got mine to do this weekend, Iv ordered the spanners that were mentioned in other post I out up.

The gas bottle I'm sure was secure but looks dodgy from an outsiders point of view, atleast you had other forms of safety incase the worst was to happen :)

just to mention that for the lower bolt you can either use a curved 18 mm spanner or a socket and ratchet and as I said the top ones are 15 and 18. Also use good quality Tools as budget ones will just break or damage the nuts and bolts.
 

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@Burnzybubbles, for the rear shocks, it's 15 and 18 spanners: 15 for the bolt, 18 for the nut. 18 must be a long curved one (don't know the name but could picture it). Gas bottle, what else?

@arcon, yeah you're absolutely right. Especially when I tried remove the left hand side one this afternoon: top bolt wouldn't come off. And I thought of heating up as well but sadly there's no access to that b***y nut! Too rusty... I've got time tomorrow and will try a hand made tool. Basically I'll be using a solid roofbar that I normally use as a breaker bar for my Trooper or other bits. I made from it a sort of "fork" which I'll be fixing the 15 mm spanner in. Then with a trolley jack I'll be forcing that bar upwards so hopefully it will make the nut turn (if not raise the vehicle). So for that point, I will be working up the jack from outside just in case the car starts raising up and I don't want to take any risk. If it works then hurrah! If it doesn't, then will have to take it to my local garage, just a few yards from home.

Will update tomorrow
Are you positive it's an 18mm, just that other link mentions 19mm, and I ordered a 19mm because of that, I'll be pee'd if it's an 18mm as the spanner cost £12.

Is it a spanner like this one

Bicycle part Medical equipment Sports equipment Kitchen utensil Font


Thanks for the reply though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Burnzybubbles, for the rear shocks, it's 15 and 18 spanners: 15 for the bolt, 18 for the nut. 18 must be a long curved one (don't know the name but could picture it). Gas bottle, what else?

@arcon, yeah you're absolutely right. Especially when I tried remove the left hand side one this afternoon: top bolt wouldn't come off. And I thought of heating up as well but sadly there's no access to that b***y nut! Too rusty... I've got time tomorrow and will try a hand made tool. Basically I'll be using a solid roofbar that I normally use as a breaker bar for my Trooper or other bits. I made from it a sort of "fork" which I'll be fixing the 15 mm spanner in. Then with a trolley jack I'll be forcing that bar upwards so hopefully it will make the nut turn (if not raise the vehicle). So for that point, I will be working up the jack from outside just in case the car starts raising up and I don't want to take any risk. If it works then hurrah! If it doesn't, then will have to take it to my local garage, just a few yards from home.

Will update tomorrow
Are you positive it's an 18mm, just that other link mentions 19mm, and I ordered a 19mm because of that, I'll be pee'd if it's an 18mm as the spanner cost £12.

Is it a spanner like this one

attachicon.gif
image.png

Thanks for the reply though.

Hi, yep! that's the one you will need. However, you won't be waisting anything because this spanner should be 18 mm and 19 mm at the other end. So you have both in one!

Ok, I managed to remove the second shock, actually I've just finished, really painful in the hand that turns the 15mm spanner as you cannot turn the 18mm botl.

I took some good pics to show the location of the Tools in the bolt and nut!!

The technic i used is as mentioned above and without heating the nut. I've used a hand made fork lever and jacked the spanner up with a trolley jack. And it cracked the bolt so just needed to finish by hand.

Will uploads pics later after lunch...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Been busy all day till Sunset and just relaxing ready to post more pics. Anyways, spanners should definately be 15 and 18. 19 is for the crossmember eccentric bolt.

Will be showing old Monroe shock along with the location of the spanners in action before removal.

Fitting the new springs is not very easy with the compressors, so found a way to keep the spring fully loaded using an old strap. Straps are very strong and enough to keep the srping loaded. Then, once correctly fitted, and with the jack Under the lower arm, you just need to cut it and off you go.
 

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