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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to everyone!

Although i follow this forum for some time now, this is the first post.

I drive a Ford Mondeo 1.6 16v manufactured in 1993, powered by a ZETEC-E powerplant.

I need your help on some common issue found on this particular model, namely a poor idle.

I performed some checks on my car in order to identify the problem, here is what i found:

When i disconnect the vacuum hose running from the EGR valve to EGR control (solenoid) the idle is returning to normal.

In order to check the EGR valve functionality, i connected the hose to the EGR valve end and i applied vacuum with my lips. The result was the engine running poorly, near stalling. This means that the EGR valve is performing ok.

Given the fact that one end of the hose connects to the EGR control / solenoid, i suspect that this is the fault and need to be replaced.

The hoses appear to be ok, given the fact that in time these are prone to rotting.

If you have any sugestions, i look forward to hear from you.

Thank you!
 

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The cheapest way of fixing this would be to just put a M6 bolt to the end of the vacuum hose and leave it disconnected. That way the EGR-solenoid would not open the EGR-valve at all. Also worth mentioning is my topic "EGR delete completely" or something along those lines just a bit more below this topic. :themrs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know i could block the hose, but what i want to know is if replacing the egr control/solenoid would solve the poor idle issue, because i suspect the egr solenoid is not working properly.
I wouldn't want to use unconventional methods, like disable the egr valve using a plate or others like that.
 

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Yes you probably can go and buy a new solenoid from Ford that's not pissing vacuum trough it and fix the thing. But then again why would you want the engine to eat it's own waste. It's like you would wake up in the morning to eat porridge and pour a little bit of your own shit into it and eat it. To put it bluntly, but if you really want the EGR-system to work then by all means go and buy a new solenoid. :}
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for your kind opinion and and sense of humor. I agree with you when you say the egr system is ripping the power of the engine. If you ask me, i would want all the cars to be just like they were in the golden age of motoring when the power of the engine was determined by the size of the cylinders, good engineering and design and not by electronics and cheating the system (see Volkswagen scandal). I would love to drive a Ford Escort Cosworth or a classic Mustang on any day.

But the laws in our countries these days impose restrictions on emissions and this is the reason why i want my car to perform as intended by it's manufacturer (Ford Europe - Dusseldorf Plant). If i want to drive my Mondeo on public roads in the future, the car must be able to pass the MOT checks (emissions included).

I try to keep my car in good shape because i love it.
 

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It's also illegal here in Finland to remove any emission related gadgets from your car, but the EGR-systems main goal is to lower the burning temperatures in the engine and thus reducing the amount of NOx (VW scandal.) Thing is, NOx is not measured in here so nobody will really know if the car has EGR or not. The EGR-system also fills your intake manifold and intake ports with this black muck due to exhaust gasses passing trough them. The air pulse systems purpose (which i also removed) is to warm up the catalytic converter even faster by letting air in the exhaust manifold. Again not a problem if you drive your car fully warm before the MOT. I passed my last MOT just by putting back the aluminium heat shield so the engineer couldn't see the missing pipes under it. :nana:
 

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my 2000 registered mk2 2.0 zetec has never had an egr from the day it was born, and i get excellent emissions results, as i only burn clean air. Bunging the rubber pipe or fitting a blanking plate usually has a positive effect, and as it is not euro 4 will not matter to the ecu. You may experience better fuel economy too.

Just block the pipe or fit a blanking plate, and forget about it. :L

On my previous mondeos (2, 1.8L) with the same engine, i usually cut a 30mm piece of the vacuum pipe off, block the end of it, and fit it to the egr to stop it getting damp inside too.
 

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I agree with you, but this is a makeshift solution with positive and negative effects. On the positive side maybe you can can make some fuel economy. But the negative effect is increasing combustion temperatures, which leads to a higher stress on the engine.

I prefer to replace what i suspect to be a faulty EGR solenoid and make the EGR system work as it should.

In my case the EGR solenoid could be sending wrong commands to the EGR valve, making it to open when it should not.

I intend to renew all the vacuum hoses in the EGR system with silicone hoses.

By the way, could anyone confirm that the internal diameter for EGR system vacuum hoses is 6 mm?
 

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I don't think you can say for certain that the EGR solenoid is faulty, just because disconnecting it improves the idle. It might well be faulty, but it could just be masking another problem such as the EGPD sensor, which is also prone to failure. (I've fallen into this trap before). I don't know how much a new solenoid is, but the only way might be to replace it and see.

There is a useful Zetec Bad Idle Guide here, which although not strictly for the Mondeo is still relevant. In fact, it is very similar to the Mondeo Bad Idle Guide that seems to have disappeared off the 'net now.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/ZetecIdleIssue.htm

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you kindly for your quick reponse to my problem.

I already read the Zetec Bad Idle Guide and i am convinced that the faulty component is the EGR solenoid.

When i disconnected the hose from the EGR solenoid end, not only the idle improved but the whole response of the engine. Idle speed is constant, the engine runs smoothly and responds much better in acceleration.

I will replace the EGR solenoid and hopefully solve the erratic idle issue. If not, i will go further and replace, if necessary the EGPD sensor.
 

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I agree with you, but this is a makeshift solution with positive and negative effects. On the positive side maybe you can can make some fuel economy. But the negative effect is increasing combustion temperatures, which leads to a higher stress on the engine.

I prefer to replace what i suspect to be a faulty EGR solenoid and make the EGR system work as it should.

In my case the EGR solenoid could be sending wrong commands to the EGR valve, making it to open when it should not.

I intend to renew all the vacuum hoses in the EGR system with silicone hoses.

By the way, could anyone confirm that the internal diameter for EGR system vacuum hoses is 6 mm?
Increased combustion temperatures do not harm your engine. I only mentioned increased combustion temperatures because of NOx. There is basically two ways of reducing NOx. The first way being the EGR that offers less oxygen to the burning process when it allows exhaust gasses to flow to the cylinder. Oxygen and nitrogen like to come together when there is a lot of heat involved producing NOx. So the less oxygen, the less NOx formed in the engine.

Second way is to use the S.C.R. or Selective Catalytic Reduction which is a type of an catalytic converter that separates oxygen and nitrogen when it has already come together using urea. This is also the very device that V.A.G. thought was too expensive to fit to those new 2.0 TDIs and decided to do some dirty work instead.

1. EGR: So basically do something before you shit your pants.

2. SCR: More expensive and messy damage control ( i think this also applies to shitting your pants :})

Just to clear one misunderstanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In order to eliminate confusion I performed another check on the EGR system, this time by connecting back the vacuum hose between EGR solenoid and EGR valve and disconnecting the plug from EGPD sensor. The engine runs unevenly at idle.

Corect me if I am wrong here. If the EGPD sensor is disconnected, the EGR solenoid should not open the EGR valve.

Therefore I am inclined to believe that the EGR solenoid is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I decided to replace both suspect parts in the EGR system (EGR solenoid control valve and EGPD sensor), together with the vacuum hoses.

My EGPD (Exhaust Gas Pressure Differential) sensor is printed with part number 93BB-9J460-AA.

I would like to know if this sensor was superseded by another one with superior performance.

My car has the following VIN: WF0AXXGBBAPP46919

If anyone can help me, I would appreciate.

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After two weeks of waiting, I finally got the second hand EGPD sensor replacement part from Great Britain and i tried it. The engine idle speed is still variable.

Next step is to change the EGR solenoid control valve and see what happens.
 

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the 3 parts in the pic below are found in all the 4 cylinder models, i fitted fairly late mk2 ones in a mk1, although i had to change a plug on my loom to fit it.

have you checked the rubber t piece under the ignition coilpack, that is the #1 selling part on mk1 and mk2 zetec engined cars.
 

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