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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What ho one and all,

Oh no, not him again!

Along with replacing various bits and pieces, I plan to replace the front shocks. Did the wishbone, droplinks and swivel mounts a few months ago but the thuds over bumps are still there.

I am not concerned about it as I have already had everything off so nothing should be seized, but ......... My plan is to remove the strut and knuckle and dismantle on the garage floor. Watching a this vid (
) he just bangs the strut from the hub (around 4:50) while the hub is still attached to the driveshaft.

There is more than one way to skin a cat, but is this really the sensible method?
 

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Thats a Mk4 mondeo.

As for leaving it connected to the driveshaft, yes thats fine but you really need to drop the subframe on the side your changing so that you dont force the rear wishbone bush past a certain point.

Ideally you want to separate the hub carrier from the wishbone ball joint (still need to lower frame to do that) but getting the subframe low enough is sufficient.

If lowering the subframe, make sure you take the weight off it with a jack before undoing the rear bolt, you risk the captive nut tearing from its mount if you dont and that is a headache and a hole cut in the inside footwell to get at it if it does!
 

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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's kinda what I plan to do, but will have the whole thing off the car. Don't really fancy forcing anything and I can see that re-inserting could be challenging with the hub still on the driveshaft.

Given that the driveshaft is only one nut, don't see why it is not easier to remove it. But what do I know?
 

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That's kinda what I plan to do, but will have the whole thing off the car. Don't really fancy forcing anything and I can see that re-inserting could be challenging with the hub still on the driveshaft.

Given that the driveshaft is only one nut, don't see why it is not easier to remove it. But what do I know?
If it were me doing it i would and have previously left the hub carrier on the driveshaft but dropped the subframe and wishbone off the bottom to avoid damage to the wishbone rear bush.

lots of WD40 and a good beating with a hammer will then get the hub carrier off the shock, just go slow near the end so that it does not drop off suddenly.

Another way to get it off is to put a jack between the top of the hub carrier and the spring seat on the shock and press it off but ive always just used a hammer and unreasonable force :)

As Mondy Zetecs said, open the slit at the back of where the shock sits in the hub carrier with a chisel and hammer to loosen its grip or you can use a crowbar if you have someone strong to hold the hub at the disc while you lever it open slightly.
 

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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks gentlemen. Just at the info gathering stage at the moment.

Have to admit to being 'uncertain' about this business of damaging the rear wishbone bush. I have watched the Chaz Coombes vid where he replaces the bushes by burning and hitting them out. I have tried to do the same with the old ones,(just out of interest) and although I have not yet succeeded, I have drilled through the rear bush and there is no oil in it, just a combination of rubber and metal. What damage can be done by levering the ball joint out?
 

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Little Megger
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Tried drilling through the front bush?.. I thought I'd read (on here) that for the middle east market, the bushes are a different part number 'cos they're filled with a different viscosity oil to cope with the higher temperatures.... 🤔
 

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Clever Clauggs
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My method support knuckle, Jack up strut apply spring clamp, strut comes out of knuckle, no removing brakes or lowering subframe


Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
 

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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In your photo of the clamps, it seems that the hex end of the clamp thread is deep inside. How did you tighten it?

When I replaced the wishbones ( and now wish I had done the shock at the same time!!) I found that with the hex end of the clamp at the bottom, the thread is too long to actually get the strut into place.

Don't plan to lower the sub-frame as I have just had the alignment done. If necessary, will release the wishbone rear bolt.
 

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Little Megger
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Good question!
You could, with the spring fully compressed, rope it with para cord or wire. That would hold the spring in compression once the jack was removed.
 

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Clever Clauggs
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Jack the knuckle up, using inverted clamp hand tighten the threaded bolts.as the strut is jacked up more out of the knuckle hand tighten a little more,refitting i use rope and remove clamps altogether, using inverted clamps not overtightened to replace also works, as the knuckle is jacked up it releases the pressure on the clamps which can then be hand turned to loosen.
 

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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just investigating the various possibilities; have yet to buy the shocks. Don't like hitting anything with a mallet so will probably either force the wishbone down to release the ball joint or remove the rear bolt on the wishbone, which make life easy.

But it does add to the complication is reassembling. When I did the wishbone, I managed to get the ball joint inserted but not sufficient 'play' to bet the rear bush bolt through. Plenty of wangling and it did finally go, but what a hassle.
 

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Just investigating the various possibilities; have yet to buy the shocks. Don't like hitting anything with a mallet so will probably either force the wishbone down to release the ball joint or remove the rear bolt on the wishbone, which make life easy.

But it does add to the complication is reassembling. When I did the wishbone, I managed to get the ball joint inserted but not sufficient 'play' to bet the rear bush bolt through. Plenty of wangling and it did finally go, but what a hassle.
Forcing the wishbone down is what causes the bush damage and why you need to drop the subframe, to remove the rear wishbone bolt you also need to drop the subframe, its inserted from above.
 

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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I kno wit shouold be inserted from above but the one I removed was inserted from the bottom and that is how I replace it. I understand the 'risk' but there are plenty of other bolts on the bottom of the car and they don't drop out, so I will take my chances. Nothing that a drop of LockTite does not cure.
 

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I kno wit shouold be inserted from above but the one I removed was inserted from the bottom and that is how I replace it. I understand the 'risk' but there are plenty of other bolts on the bottom of the car and they don't drop out, so I will take my chances. Nothing that a drop of LockTite does not cure.

Most of us would immediately notice if it became even slightly loose from the banging and also the car jittering around on the ruts in the road but its designed with the bolt from above to protect idiots lol.

Many years ago i knew a woman who had someone change a wheel for her and that person only did the nuts up finger tight and she was off in the car, a couple of miles later and it was making a loud knocking and the steering wheel was shaking but she ignored it and continued on until a few miles later the wheel broke free from the studs.

You cant cure stupid so you have to design it out ha ha.
 
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