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Fuel Filter

1403 Views 20 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  rickybotts_123
Just replaced the above this weekend and since doing it the coil is flashing on the dash. It isn't constant as the car drove fine on the way to work today, but just driving it now the coil light came on immediately after starting and the car had no power at all.

Stuck the code reader on to it and got P1000? Having just searched on here that comes back to being an ECU malfunction as it can not test all the cars functions, or something like that.

Any one got any ideas of where I can start?
As I stated the car was fine up until the fuel filter change.

Any advice would much appreciated.

Thanks

Richard
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Hello Richard.

A flashing glowplug light can often indicate a problem with the fuel system.

Recheck the fuel line connections on the top of your filter to ensure they are seated properly (Granny and eggs might Spring to mind but I have done this) as any air getting in will confuse the system and that might be why it's in limp mode. If it isn't this there may be another reason why the fuel isn't flowing as it should.
Cheers I'll give that a go. As I say I could go out to it now and it may be fine. This did happen two days ago and a restart sorted it out and it has been fine until today.

Im just hoping that the injectors aren't on there way out and maybe this is now showing up because they are getting clean water free diesel due to me changing the filter.

I'll give that a go but any other suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks
Quick update,

Everything is connected up as it should be. The car had been left for a good few hours and on starting the coil didn't come but as soon as it was up to temp the coil came back on and the power went.

I know its probably going to have to go to Ford for a more thorough diagnostic than what I can carry out but could anyone give me a list of things to try before hand?

On my code reader it shows up

P1000
01/02

If thats any use

Cheers
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Having read lots and lots of info on this my symptoms appear to be the same as others who have changed their cam sensor. I also read that the black ones were faulty, which mine has and that they should be replaced with the new grey ones. A long shot I know but will be worth the £20. So going to give that a go tomorrow and fingers crossed
Pretty sure the P1000 code means OBD not ready or something like, I quite often get it and it's not a fault or anything to worry about.
first of all what code reader are you using?
Just a cheap one from ebay. Its usually spot on.

There is definately a fault though otherwise the coil wouldn't be flashing and having read lots of info on the symptoms I have it seems to point to the cam sensor. And with it only being £20 Im getting a new one tomorrow
what brand was the new filter you fitted?
Think it was a mann filter.

The car had flashed the coil a couple of times before the filter change but only when I had really booted it, or when it had been running for a very long time with no stops/starts. Although that only happened three times in all the 20k I've done in the car. Just when I changed the filter it started to do it from start up which has never done.

Just been out in it now and its fine, so it is definately linked to when it gets warm. Just picked up my new cam sensor so will put that on then go for a long drive to get it hot and see if them coil returns
I'd fit an original Ford filter or get a Bosch filter from Euro Car Parts (Bosch is OEM, the Ford filter has Bosch on it). There have been reports of some filters causing problems, spending £12 or so os worth it to at least rule out the filter if the fault still persists.
rickybotts_123 said:
Just a cheap one from ebay. Its usually spot on.

There is definately a fault though otherwise the coil wouldn't be flashing and having read lots of info on the symptoms I have it seems to point to the cam sensor. And with it only being £20 Im getting a new one tomorrow
When I had mine replaced at ford (i didnt realise how simple it was to do at the time) for the new sensor, they said the new version requires a new loom at it requires a higher voltage. can't remember the cost but it wasn't expensive
Well I've just tried the new cam sensor and the coil came on staright away again. I had been for a drive in it first thing this morning before replacing it and it was fine. Its obviously when it gets warm and is then left parked for an hour or so. Plus I'm still getting fault code P1000.
Just rang Ford and they said its the full loom for £120 :tonofbricks:

You don't happen to have a part number do you as my local ford are useless so he may be looking at the wrong thing
Just been reading loads on info on the coil and possible problems and came across Adi69 posts about the sticking vanes in the turbo Just started the car and let it idle and no light came on. Then blipped the throttle whilst wathing the actuator arm and it looked as though it was trying to move and then the coil came back on.

Could this be a sign of sticking vanes in the turbo? and if so how do I get it off to clean, check them further
Right the actuator arm moves freely with no sticking points and the shaft also moves freely with no play in it so that rules out the turbo. Also had the electronic actuator box open and that all appears fine.

Running out of ideas with this fooking car
Update,

Just stuck the old filter on and have taken the car for a drive, got it up to temp and then left it off for an hour then went back to it and all appears ok (touch wood). Only time will tell just I'm finding it hard to think that a fuel filter could the above issues. Maybe I'm not as mechanically minded as I thought. Going to get a proper ford filter at the weekend and go from there with it.

The make I used was FRAM not mann so if this was the issue avoid that type.

Thanks for any help/suggestions

Richard
i myself would stick with ford parts when it comes to fuel filters
I am definately going to from now on. Just hope that it was the issue.

One thing I dont understand, and excuse me if its really obvious, but how can a non Ford fuel filter cause the issues I had? I understand that fuel was struggling to get through or sdomething but how is this so. Is it just a case of the structure inside the filter being different?
Some filters don't seem to be able to give a high enough flow rate for high demand, probably poor filter material, this means fuel pressure drops in the common rail, sensor picks it up and the car goes into limp home mode. I found it hard to believe but I'm now seen a few posts about issues with the quality of diesel filters.
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