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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I know there is a very good guide about drilling a hole in the turbo housing to make cleaning the vanes much easier, but as I don't have to tools for that job at the moment I've done it the harder way. Thought I'd make a guide to help anyone in the future either with splitting the turbo and Mr Muscling it or just splitting the turbo for any other reason.

Hope its useful to someone! Apologies for any typos in there.

Jon

View attachment Mondeo Turbo Cleaning Guide.pdf
 

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Little Megger
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317 Posts
it's great that you have done this, makes people understand a job a lot easier when it's written up with pictures.

i have been wanting to do this for time, this gives me a better understanding of it.

much appreciated, thanks :first:
 

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MEG Sergeant
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3,099 Posts
Respect!...lol

Personally the "hole in the casting" does it for me, your way does show how clean the foam leaves the VNT
 

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MEG Sergeant
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Could you post some of the pictures here so i can save them for future reference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it's great that you have done this, makes people understand a job a lot easier when it's written up with pictures.

i have been wanting to do this for time, this gives me a better understanding of it.

much appreciated, thanks :first:
Thank you! Nice to know that it will be of use to you! If you want anymore info or anything just shout...Ive done it 3 times now!! Wish I'd used Mr Muscle first time!

Respect!...lol

Personally the "hole in the casting" does it for me, your way does show how clean the foam leaves the VNT
Thanks buddy, I have to agree, once I get my right angle drill attachment and a decent drill bit i'll be doing that! The Mr Muscle is fantastic stuff, really powerful.

Regarding the upload of photos, sure I'll do that. Whats the best way to do it as the files are large and my upload limit is 750kb....
 

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Nice one - shows the vnt set-up well, until you've actually taken one apart, the whole thing is a mystery, but once you understand it, it holds no more fear.

That's the way I would have done it, if my turbo cartridge hadn't been seized solid - no amount of tapping, heating, persuading etc., would shift it, that's why I had to devise the hole in the manifold method. As you say - until you actually see how the stuff just eats away the carbon, it's hard to believe.
 

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MEG Sergeant
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3,099 Posts
That's the way I would have done it, if my turbo cartridge hadn't been seized solid
Theres a bloke selling one on Fleabay, i think hes desperate, could bag a bargain there!

BTW, for sale - 90 degree angle attachment, drills, tap set, bolt and mr muscle kit, £15 plus P&P...
 

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MEG Corporal
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dont you just admire a guy with a bit of enterprise . selling the kit for fifeeen notes .is just super idea and is very reasonable . but also compliments to the JMANG on supplying his expertise also on this stickey problem . as riggers says it can become a little difficult when the cartridge is seized in or also putting back together .. and gettig the sliding mechanism to operate the vanes may present a prob to some . and this is why the fast track . drill n bolt ..idea . might short cut a lot of the agro in removing and refitting .. .. s
 

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Megger
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Brilliant guide, thanks very much.

Usually in an oven, everything gets wiped down. Clean off as best as possible and what is left behind the movable arms is OK?
 

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That's the way I would have done it, if my turbo cartridge hadn't been seized solid
Theres a bloke selling one on Fleabay, i think hes desperate, could bag a bargain there!
Not any more he's not - 22 hours to go, 10 watching it and not one bid, so withdrew it - I'd rather throw the f***er in the bin mate, than have some tight git bid £15 and expect me to queue at the post office to send it.
 

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MEG Sergeant
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That's the way I would have done it, if my turbo cartridge hadn't been seized solid
Theres a bloke selling one on Fleabay, i think hes desperate, could bag a bargain there!
Not any more he's not - 22 hours to go, 10 watching it and not one bid, so withdrew it - I'd rather throw the f***er in the bin mate, than have some tight git bid £15 and expect me to queue at the post office to send it.
I had £16 ready....lol

would probably have only been bought by a reconditioner, or the guy who sold it you

like a lens i bought....then sold....winner had sold it me....oh well
 

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Going to try this at the weekend as limp mode has returned on my car... got quite a few thousand miles out of it though since I last cleaned. Have one question regarding the rollers and peg. You refer to them in pic 7.1 but I can't see them at all - where am I supposed to be looking? I like to be mentally prepared before I start doing it physically.
 

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And also... can all this be done from the top of the car? Or will I need wheel ramps to get underneath for any reason?
 

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And.... (sorry for all the questions)... After leaving the mr muscle to work for 30 mins, do you wipe it to clean? or just leave it? Also... Can you use mr muscle to clean the other part of the turbo you've removed? The bit that contains the variable vane mechanism? I think thats it for the questions - would be most appreciated if you could answer them for me.
 

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Super Moderator
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It can be done from the top of the car, Some nuts maybe more accessible from below.

But you can do it from the top. Unless you drop any nuts of course.

Wipe off anything you can. But if your removing the turbo and vanes you dont need mr muscle.

I used some swarfega engine degreaser to clean my old one. Came up a treat.

Just make sure you dry it all before refitting. If you do a proper job it will last longer than a half

assed one.

But you also need to look into why it sooted up. If its overfuelliing due to a boost leak, EGR or injector

issue then the fix maybe short lived.
 

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95% of the time it's driven on short journeys around town and rarely gets above 40mph. I'm sure I've read elsewhere that this can contribute to the problem... is this correct?
 

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Just out of interest - for future reference - can mr muscle also be used to clean the egr valve?
 
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