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Right here we go guys , you cant go by this from word by word as I cant rember every thing lol , but it is good enough to give you a very good idear and all so you know what bits you don’t have to do in the Haynes book witch helps a lot , I hope this does help other people as this has taken me a long while to Write all this for you people , I have added some pics of my car to help give you a idear.

Replacing the Head Gaskets on a Mondeo V6 SEA

Right here we go guys/Girls, this is part of a Wright up on the Haynes book and my own from when I done mine :)

Here is a list of the torque settings you will need, all will be done in NM

Cylinder Head Bolts
Stage 1 = 40 NM
Stage 2 = Angle Tighten 90 degrees
Stage 3 = Loosen 360 degrees
Stage 4 = 40 NM
Stage 5 = Angle Tighten 90 degrees
Stage 6 = Angle Tighten 90 degrees

Right Hand Engine Mount = 83 NM

Left Hand Engine Mount Auto Tran = 48 NM

Left Hand Engine Mount Man Tran = 83 NM

Engine Mount Bracket To Cylinder Block = 47 NM

Fixed Timing Chain Guide To Cylinder Block = 25 NM

Timing Chain Tensioner To Cylinder Block = 25 NM

Timing Cover To Cylinder Block = 25 NM

Crankshaft position sensor to timing cover = 10 NM

Crankshaft Pulley

Stage 1 = 120 NM
Stage 2 = Loosen 360 degrees
Stage 3 = 50 NM
Stage 4 = Angle Tighten 90 degrees

Camshaft Bearing Cap = 10 NM

Camshaft position sensor = 10 NM

Cylinder Head Cover = 10 NM

Exhaust Manifold = 25 NM

Oil Pump Cover = 10 NM

Oil Pump To Cylinder Block

Oil Separator To Cylinder Block = 10 NM

Sump Plug = 25 NM

Sump = 25 NM

Lower / Upper Inlet Manifold = 10 NM

Right they from what I can rember are the torque settings you will need for this type of job.

Right now these are the bits you will need yet again from what I rember, the part numbers are from www.fordpartsuk.com :

 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Head Bolts x 16 Part Number: 4411018
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6 SEA-Head Gaskets x 1 Set I used eBay set from cossieboyz ( Item Number 4540795203 )
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Crank Seal Part Number: 7117120
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Gasket Set x 1 I used eBay set from cossieboyz ( Item Number 4540795203 )
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Crank Pulley Bolt x 1 Part Number: 3675106
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Crank Pulley Washer x 1 Part Number: 3523184
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Sump Gasket x 1 Part Number: 4174016
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Oil Filter x 1 Part Number: 4628534
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Exhaust Manifold Stud- Head x 12 Part Number: 3683295
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Exhaust Manifold Nuts- Head x 12 Part Number: 3788881
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Sump Plug Washer x 1 Part Number: 6802217
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6- Oil 5w/30
 Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6- PAS Fluid

From what I can rember that is all you need , but as you go on the way you might need a few other things , as I did changes things that did not need doing while on the way , here is a few other things that you might need if you want :

Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-DMD Crank Pulley
Part Number: 4138496(QTY1)
Retail Price: £51.12
You Pay: £43.45
Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Chain Tensioner LH/RH
Part Number: 3674646(QTY2)
Retail Price: £34.26each
You Pay: £29.12each
Mondeo Duratec 2.5 V6-Fuel Filter
Part Number: 1022150(QTY1)
Retail Price: £10.09
You Pay: £7.57
Mondeo 2.5V6-Water Pump Belt
Part Number: 3954187(QTY1)
Retail Price: £8.57
You Pay: £6.42
Mondeo 2.5 V6-Water Pump Tensioner
Part Number: 4173397
Retail Price: £20.33
You Pay: £17.29

Right now for the BIG job , replacing the head gaskets:

Now as I say I will be using info from the Haynes book and my own brain from when I done the job.

Right here we go there might be things I have missed but this will give you a good idear , there will be a lot of things I tell you to remove that you wont know about , don’t worry you will see the bits that need removing when doing the job , so if you don’t understand move on to the next bit.

First step ( some info on these first steeps on removing will be in Second steeps )

• Remove the battery fully
• Remove the whole air box unit
• Remove air inlet duct
• Drain the oil from the sump
• Drain the coolant system

Second step = upper inlet manifold / lower inlet manifold / fuel lines

• Remove the upper inlet manifold â€" Undo the bolts to the black plastic cover that sits on to of the front cylinder bank , disconnect the crankcase hoses from the air duct and EGR valve, Prise the vacuum hose’s from the upper manifold ( I find its best to poke a screw driver from under them in side the UIM once the throttle body has been removed ) , undo the 2 clips and remove the air duct from the throttle body , prise off the clips for the throttle and cruise cable that is fixed to the arms , remove the throttle cable mounting bracket ( 3 screws I think ) , remove the plug from the idle control valve, disconnect the hoses from the EGR and undo the 2 bolts , disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose, undo all the upper inlet manifold bolts , and lift off the UIM and put that some wear safe
• Now the lower inlet manifold , before you go any further you need to remove all the pressure in the fuel system!!! , go to the fuse box under the bonnet of your car to the right hand side next to the battery , remove the lid and find fuse number 14 ( 15a I think ) , start the car and when it is ticking over pull out that fuse , your car will die , when it does try to start it non stop for about 10 secs , that fuse stops any power going to the fuel pump , this will get rid of all the pressure in the fuel system , re fit fuse but don’t turn on the ignition
• Back to the inlet manifold, remove the fuel lines ( mark them up from the 2 , what ones go to what ) , I used a bit of plastic pipe with a slit in the side , slide them over the lines and push them on to the couplings and then remove ( a home made tool can be made from a thin coil of thin plastic 15mm wide , insert the plastic coil into the open end of the fitting so that the internal coiled spring is lifting over the retaining clip , then separate lines ) , disconnect the wire plug from the coolant temp sensor , remove the vac hose from the fuel reg , remove the intake runner control ( IMRC ) rod or cable from the stud and bracket on the front cylinder head cover , remove all bolts from lower intake manifold and lift off.

Third step = Timing chains / Timing Tensioner / guides / TDC / timing cover / head covers / sump / exhaust y piece / timing / marking up chains cams / crank pulley etc

• Cylinder head covers , disconnect all hoses that are connected to the head covers if any , remove the HT leads and spark plugs , remove the HT leads from the spark plug end only and put the to one side , undo the coolant hose clip , remove the IMRC and lead , using the reverse sequence to unscrew the bolts that hold on the head covers.
• Remove the AUX belt and the AUX Tensioner and the idle pulley
• Remove the alternator , set the engine at TDC , use the notch on the Crank pulley to align the notch with the TDC mark on the chain cover , now you need to make sure its on the compression stroke not exhaust , put the spark plug in NO.1 cylinder , rear bank on the left if you are standing in front of engine , keep Turing the crank with socket at TDC mark until you feel compression, at the TDC point
• Remove the crank shaft pulley bolt , get some one to put it 4th gear and give the brake pedal a really hard push all the way , now get a socket and crack bar to undo the bolt , don’t worry if the crank move a bit as its on a key way , remove the bolt ( if to tight you need to make a bar to lock the crank off ) , if it has moved a touch leave it in gear and turn the disc brake to reline it with TDC mark , use a pulley to remove the crank pulley , if done right the key should be in the 11 o’clock position
• Now remove the crank cog note witch way it comes off
• Now support the engine , I used a big block of thick wood that runs along the bottom of the engine on a jack to take the weight , remove the right hand engine mount and bracket ( mount next to time chain cover ), remove the pipe (with a spanner) , hold a bucket over it and turn the PAS pulley to pump out the PAS fluid , undo the bolts to the PAS unit and fully remove
• Now remove the exhaust y-piece from under the car
• Refit the right hand engine mount you removed
• Remove the oil sump from the engine
• Now get a block of wood and cut a long chunk out about 10mm down in to the wood , now you can use you block of wood with a axle stand to take the weight of the engine , the cut out is so the block of wood will run right across the whole bottom of the engine block and no weight is on the Big Ends.
• Now remove the engine mount again
• Remove the wire electrical plugs from the chain cover , 2 of them I think
• You need to undo the air con unit bolts ONLY about 5 mm ( 3 bolts ) , if you undo them about 5mm its enough for it to slide forward so you can remove one of the bolts from the timing chain cover
• Now you can remove the bolts/studs from the timing chain cover , note what way they come off as some are different , I just marked in Haynes book next to each on the pic Bolt or Stud,
• Remove the cover BE CARFULL and lift it out and place to one side
• Put the OLD bolt back in the crank shaft pulley OLD ONE ONLY , if you miss out this bit you could damage valves etc so read!!!
• Turn the crank shaft ( using the bolt )( CLOCKWISE ONLY ) so the key way is the 3 o’clock position
• Mark up with a dap of white paint , with the crank at 3 o’clock mark the 2 teeth facing each other on the rear bank cam pulley , then mark a chain link to the pulley, mark the chain link to the bottom cog
• All bits from this stage you want to put in tins marked up front bank and rear bank
• Unbolt the rear chain Tensioner 2 bolts ( watch your fingers )
• Remove the guides , 1 is on pivot and one is bolted on
• Remove the rear chain
• Now for the front bank
• Now you need to unbolt the bearing caps that hold the cam shafts in place once bolts have been removed use a thin screw driver to prise the caps off and remove the caps and cam shafts
• Now to do the front bank , you need to be at the 11 o’clock position , but rember what I was saying about the compression stroke and exhaust stroke when finding the TDC mark , well you cant move the crank shaft back to 11 o’clock as it will be on the exhaust stroke , so what you need to do is the crank shaft key way is still at 3 o’clock position from when you removed the rear chain , turn it to 11 o’clock then turn it again to 11 o ‘clock now you are back on the compression stroke at TDC
• Do the same as the rear bank to mark up the chain , cam pulleys and bottom cog with chain etc
• Remove the front chain Tensioner and the chain guides 2 of them
• Remove the chain
• And now do the same with camshafts on front bank as you done with rear , on the front bank though you have the pulley attached to the camshaft that drives the water pump, well don’t remove the puller or you will damage it like me , just undo the 2 bolts under it that holds the camshaft down and remove it with the camshaft
• Rember to renew your crank seal from the timing chain cover

Fourth step = removing heads

• Now there is a lot of bits to remove when doing this , I cant list them as I will be here all day , its only things like , water hoses / electrical plugs etc , you will know what you need to remove if they are in your way or not , if they are not in the way or nothing is blocking then don’t remove
• Now its time to remove the heads ( make sure you use new bolts ) , start to undo the bolts in certain order (I will post up or from the Haynes book) and remove the rear head
• Unplug the plugs from the exhaust manifolds
• Do the same to remove the front head
 

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ST200 baby
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
5th step = cleaning / heads

• Make sure to take time cleaning the V block / heads / faces / etc….
• Don’t chip or damage the faces while doing this!!!!
• You can get your heads skimmed if you need them done , check them , you can get a pro to do this or do it your self like me , you need a very big roofers engineer square that is British approved , make sure the faces are clean , check from top left to bottom right , the top right to bottom left , while you are doing that use a feeler gauge , I think they allow 0.036 I think it is , mine were as flat as a pancake.

Sixth step â€" putting back

• Refit the front head then rear head using new head bolts , rember they have 6 torque stages USE THEM and they have to be done in order witch I will post up.
• Now these are the things that need to be torque up and in a certain order , Heads / Cam bearing caps / Head Covers / Timing chain cover
• Now just do the opposite to removing and fit every thing back , you can re-look over this and the Haynes book to give you a idear but when you start putting back together it will all come back to you trust me 
• Just a few notes to rember when placing things back
• When you go to refit the front chain get the timing right!!!!
• Once you are ready to fit the front chain fit the front fixed guide first , engage the chain with the cam sprockets , then engage chain on bottom cog , refit the other chain guide and Tensioner making sure you have lined up the marks you made
• Now turn the crank to 3 o’clock to fit the rear chains , slid the chain on the crank shaft sprocket , refit the fixed guide , fit chain to cam shaft sprockets , refit chain guide , the fit chain Tensioner making sure again that you have allied your paint marks.
• Now to check all is ok , rember your marks will not line up after engine has been turned !! , to tell you have done right , if you turn the crank to TDC on the compression stroke ( I think ) the RFF line’s will face each other on both banks , now they wont be 100% in line that is normal but make sure they don’t look link 1 whole link out , rember after that turn the engine over clockwise about 4 times with bolt on crank just to make sure nothing does hit etc.
• If you turn the engine over do it slow as the chain Tensioner will click , this is normal and they have no oil to keep the pressure there
• That is about it really

Right guys/girls that is about it , you cant go by this from word by word as I cant rember every thing lol , but it is good enough to give you a very good idear and all so you know what bits you don’t have to do in the Haynes book.

Right some little tips here :

• When you go to put the tappets back in dunk them in a cup of fresh oil
• When you remove the tappets and rocker arms keep them in order
• Before you place head cover back oil the cam lobs
• Only use the old crank bolt to turn over engine as these bolts can only be used once
• Replace crank oil seal , knock out with rubber hammer and socket
• Make sure you follow what I say about turning the engine to a certain position when removing cams so there is equal pursue across the vales etc or you can damage them
• Don’t take any short cuts
• Check other things along the way on the job that might need changing

Right as I say this really is about it , as said you cant go by this from word by word as I cant rember every thing lol , but it is good enough to give you a very good idear and all so you know what bits you don’t have to do in the Haynes book witch helps a lot , I hope this does help other people as this has taken me a long while to Wright all this for you people , I have added some pics of my car to help give you a idear.

Ryan.
 

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ST200 baby
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7,993 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now as you can see i removed the front bumper / lights and gril etc but that is becasue i had probs with the air con bolts and rad bolts , you dont have to do that if you dont have any probs but you can if it make it easer , now i am off downstairs for a drink , been typing for 5 odd houres now , hope a mod will make this a stickey to help others or if you are a mod please make this a stickey :L

AND A BIG THANKS TO MY GRANDAD WHO HELPED A LOT , KNOWS MORE THAN ME ON CARS :} :woot:

you can see his hand a few times in some of the pics pointing to things :first:
 

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hole smokes batman........ thats one hell of a guide, congrates, well done and thank you :L

knowing my lust at trackdays i may need it one day.......... hopefuly not though, but i do know where a good guide is :L
 

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ST200 baby
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
started at 2:30pm and just finished at about 8:40pm

so about 6 hours + typing :shocked: :yawn: :}

i have just put a read my in site questions to ask to make this a stickey , hope it does :L
 

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MEG Admiral
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Brilliant guide, Ryan. No need to make it a sticky - I'm gonna put this in the Workshop for you.

Awesome guide - well done! :L

Would be easier if you could tie in some of the more relevant pics to the text so they add clarity...

Chris :L
 

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Wow excellent guide, well done for attempting & completing this job yourself.

How long did it take you? & what was the total cost?

Damo
 

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MEG Admiral
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Update - this is now in the Workshop in the Mechanical section under 'V6 HeadGasket Replacement'

If you can sort the relevant pics (where they should go to match the text, etc) and PT details to me, I'll add them

:L
 

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ST200 baby
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
chrisw said:
Update - this is now in the Workshop in the Mechanical section under 'V6 HeadGasket Replacement'

If you can sort the relevant pics (where they should go to match the text, etc) and PT details to me, I'll add them

:L
ok mate i will do that another day lol , thanks.
 

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ST200 baby
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Damo1977 said:
Wow excellent guide, well done for attempting & completing this job yourself.

How long did it take you? & what was the total cost?

Damo
think total cost was aprox £400 - £450 , as there were bits i replaced while i was doing a strip down :L
 
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