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Okay, if you are experiencing issues with your Fiesta 1.4 tdci, ie it will not start...and you can hear a chuffing sound when you turn the key..you are in the right place.....

Ford want to charge what can only be described as a mortgage repayment to complete this job...

It can be done by yourself if you are confident enough, and know your way around engines...

I completed this job and in total i probably spent about 3hrs a day over a week, most of the time is spent on removing the carbon build up that is everywhere..

You will need the Fiesta Haynes manual, a decent socket set inc torx T25 and T30, pliers, hammer, screwdriver, hoover, (air compressor optional) latex gloves pack

First off, get yourself down to the ford stealership with at least 90 quid and purchase

4XCopper washers
4x Injector bushes
1x Injector leak on pipes
4x Inlet manifold o rings
Injectors and common rail blanking plug kit

It should look like this Wood Electrical wiring Cable Wire Packing materials


Get the Haynes out and start stripping down the parts to get the inlet manifold off, take your time, its an easy 3 hrs work before you get the inlet off, take photos as you go, it makes it easier on the rebuild.

All this needs to be removed before you can remove the inlet manifold.
Bumper Gas Electrical wiring Electronic instrument Auto part

Issues you may come across, may be the injector wiring loom multi plug connector, to disconnect this, there is a blue tab on it, lift this up, and the plug easily disconnects do not force it out or pry it apart.
The egr pipe is easier to remove as a complete unit.

When you finally get the inlet manifold off, you will be presented with something similar to this, hopefully yours will not be this bad. Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive exhaust Automotive tire Automotive exterior


Now start removing the carbon crud as carefully as you can, get a old rag and bung up the inlet ports to stop the dry carbon from falling in, the ports can be cleaned later..
Do not remove the injectors or hard injector lines until the stubborn carbon deposits are removed, an air compressor with a air nozzle makes light work of this, hoover the carbon up as you go..you need to get it as clean as you can.
This stage takes time so don't rush it..

When you have cleaned it up as best as you can, start removing the injector hard lines, and place the injector blanking plugs on the common rail and the injectors, be careful not to get any carbon in the rail.

Clean the hard lines and place to one side.

Remove the injectors and clean them up using Gunk degreasent and 1500 grit wet and dry for the stubborn carbon.
Brown Wood Fictional character Electrical wiring Cable


Again take your time on cleaning the injectors, and make sure you don't touch the tips, they are extremely delicate, replace the injector leak pipes, and make sure you do not swap the injectors around, some injectors are coded to the ecu, and will not work if changed around. after 4 hrs cleaning they should look something like this.. Camera accessory Wood Cameras & optics Electrical wiring Auto part


Make sure when the injectors are removed the injector copper washers are not at the bottom of the injector holes, the surface of the injector holes must be clean and free of carbon deposits, i used engine gunk and a thin paint brush to gently ease away the carbon deposits at the bottom, this took many hours but did the job

When you have completed this, start to build it all back up, and if you have wisely taken photos, this will be even easier, especially when you get to the fuel filter pipes...

Prime the pump up when everything is back together, and again, take your time, remember the fuel filter housing will probably be empty of diesel, and this needs to be filled up again using the pump, 30 presses should do it, make sure its solid with no air moving through the pipes...

Start her up, it may take a few attempts, but she will cough and splutter into life, give it 1500 on the revs for a while until she idles nicely..

Job done...
Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Personal luxury car


Other resources can be found here...http://www.talkford....injector-seals/
 

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That'll be a great wiki addition, thanks
 

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MEG Corporal
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Excellent post helped me a lot thanks, I'm putting mine all back together tomoz once I've bought the copper washers - is it essential to change the bushes on the injectors and the rubber seals on the inlet manifold??? (car is a 1.4 Tdci not a Mondeo like in my sig)
 

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Personally i would change the injector bushes and the rubber seals, purely because of how difficult they are to get too, at least then you know the job is done properly, and when i was completing the research to do this procedure, it was essential these items were replaced.
 

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ive just done these seals on my 130 thousand mile 1.4tdci fiesta. couple of things i note, first, the copper seals were much thinner than the ones that i took out, ones in there were about 2.5mm or 3 mm thick, but the new ones were 1.5 ish, noticibly thinner. the other thing i noticed was that i found it much easier to put the top seals for the injectors into the recess in the head first and gently tap it down into the recess with a socket before inserting the injector itself. trying to do it the other way just ended up pushing the seals up the body of the injector and they wouldnt go all the way into the head. two of the ones in their already werent more than halfway in so im wondering if they werent done before and not driven all the way home. one tip i also found was that if i got 4 squash balls they would fit perfectly into the inlet tracts and seal them completely but still allow me to chip away at the carbonated build up round the inlets without risking dropping anything into the combustion chamber.
i dont know how long mine have needed doing as ive just got the car, but it must have been for thousands of miles, cos there was probably a half kilo of carbon build up in big lumps like chunks of coal !! i changed the filters and oil at the same time and it fired up second attempt, great, no fuel smell in the cab and no chuff chuffing from under the bonet! happy days! well so far!
 

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another update. after a couple of weeks since i did the seals i was still getting an occasional whiff of fumes, checkin g the injectors didnt show anything. after a week of perusing the haynes book of lies, i had a brainwave. now my fiesta hasnt got air con, but it might have a pollen filter in the holder in the passenger footwell. a quick seach confirmed this, and taking the old filter out revealed that it was as black as soot, and smelled strongly of diesel fumes. it was in effect saturated with soot from the fumes/ the new one was crisp and white, so i swapped it, and now not only has the smell gone, but the fan works better!!!
 

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Excellent post, any help on accessing the cabin filter with pics would also be very useful for a complete amateur? LOL

I used this article to confirm what the smell was, but ended up getting a relatively local mechanic recommended by daughters boyfriend to do the job. Took him around 5 hours most of which was cleaning the crap out.
Left it one evening and picked it back up the next.
The car is also now pulling far better at low revs as well as improved fuel consumption after taking it for a bit of a run to let everything relearn and settle.

For folk like me who would likely do more damage than good even with this superb posts help. he charges at most £250 for the job provided nothing outside the injector seal/guide/leak offs replacement and clean is needed and no injector actually needs replacing (very unlikely evidently).
He will charge less if its caught early and less cleaning is needed. Breaston area of Notts/Derbyshire.
 

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Evening. Firstly thanks for the guide it's been invaluable help so far. Couple of questions; the upper seals, are they meant to be loose on the injector? I can move the injector from side to side with them installed. Also were your injector tips covered in coke when you removed them? If so did you clean them? Cheers in advance for any help
 

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cabin filter is easily accessed from behing the glove box. open it up and empty it, then squeeze the sides in and fold it right down, it will pop out. the filter is behind a rectangular cover in the centre of the car up against the bulkhead, its secured by a couple of screws. simple to do.

my seals were a loose fit on the injector.m tbh i dont think they are a seal as such, the injector is sealed by the copper washer at the bottom of the injector socket. the seals that slide over the injector are mainly a guide to hold the injector central in its hole. i dont think they actually seal anything aside from stopping crud falling down the hole alongside the injector. i would put this seal into its recess in the head and then push the injector through it. putting it over the injector first is likely to result in it not going all the way into its recess in the head and perhaps make the injector seals go again quicker than they might.

as for the carbon. mine had a bit, but under no circumstances touch the injector tips. i used brake cleaner on mine, its a solvent that desolves carbon. i just sprayed it onto the injector and it cleared the crud away in seconds.
 

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for the record, if you can move the injector then you havent tightened the clamp up enough. it is designed to press the injector down onto the copper seal with some force, so if you can move the injector, then you have a problem with this rather than the seals.
 

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cabin filter is easily accessed from behing the glove box. open it up and empty it, then squeeze the sides in and fold it right down, it will pop out. the filter is behind a rectangular cover in the centre of the car up against the bulkhead, its secured by a couple of screws. simple to do.
Thanks for that. I think I see it. Other places had said take the cover off at the side of the central control panel, but when I did this there was nothing that looked like it, although someone had obviously been in there before as one of the mounting lugs was broken and had been bodged. :/

As an aside, I also found stuff (leaves etc) trapped in the intake hole under the plastic grilling under the bonnet on the passenger side. These also accumulated smell and could be cleared via a rubber flap at the bottom accessed from inside the back of the engine bay.nearest to the passenger well
 

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Firstly Hello all, this is the first post i have made on here so lets make it a good one ey!?


i unfortunatley have been given a 52 plate fesbomb to replace my current work car, a corsa B derv which i have had since 1998, i have never had to spend any money on this car.

so now i discover that this festa has a french engine in it
so no only do i have the dispoosablility of a ford it is mixed with a french (AKA in another world to work on) engine haha!!..

anyhoooo now you have guessed i am not an avid ford fan, i am tight with money and hate working on french cars...

NOW here is my dilema....

the fezza was given to me in running condition with the usual thomas the tank engine noise of the injector seal failure, so off i go using the guide here as a helping hand - nice easy job only took about 2 hours to strip out and replece 3 seals.... i say 3 because one of the injectors never has a seal, i could see that this was the leaking injector and that it was of a different batch to that of the original injectors - so my woes were created by incompetence!!!!!!

follwoing re-assembly i primed the fuel system until i coud see no visible aire in the clear return hose and attempeted a re-start which was uneventful, i tried over and over for around 20 cranks - still no joy...

i did a sweep for disconnected cables, hoses etc - no fault found

i then found some easy start - yep it runs on lighter fuel


started a fault finding process:-
injectors have 0.05v when key is turned and are humming.
cranked the motor and loosed off the main fuel feed from the pump - ver minimal fuel coming out!!!!

i wasnt overly happy with the design of the fuel priming system in susch a way that it seems to bypass the pump. So i fitted a long hose to the brake vacuum pump on my current derv motor and squeezed the primiing nulb in the bay so that it would not allow any flow through it and attemped to suck out from the RTN hose, which did actually get some more air out of it.

went for a further start attempt - NO JOY!!

i thought it was time to be a google mechanic and it seems that sometimes people find these really hard to get going after som much as a fuel filter element change and running out of fuel, all say to do similar things to what i have tried above, prime and use vacuum to pull through the system

does anyone have any ideas before i start towing it around town trying to start it?!

what i dont want is to replace the fuel pump/cambelt to then have to change the injectors to the find out in this time my fiesta has rusted to bits and the fuel pump was ok, i`ve been there done that years ago and i know most garages operate on this principle - i dont spend more than 1/8 of the cars residual value of say £1200


thanks in advance
 

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i pumped the primer on mine about 60 70 times before i started it. essentially if you can still hear air whooshing round or through the primer, then its not priimed. pump it, pump it again and then pump it some more.
for the record, the 1.4tdci motor isnt really a french one. ford worked in conjunction with peugeot to design and build this engine that they could both use in their respective small models. so its not like ford bought a pug engine for the fiesta, no more than peugeot bought a ford one. the costs of developing engines boxes supension etc is so vast that it makes sense to spread it out amongst as many models as possible. common automotive practice. which is why vw seat skoda etc are all the same under the skin, and this goes right back to the begining of car history. remember the rover v8? achetypal british car? the v8 motor was a buick! small jags are just mondeos with a bodykit, even the mighty bugatti veyron is a rehash of a bentley concept car powered by 2 vw engines mated together! thats how the car world has always been.
and besides your dislike of the french auto industry, its not like the likes of peugeot and citroen et al have built crap diesel engines over the decades is it.
 

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well i`m still getting air out of the thing after like three days of pumping, i work for an automotive supplier that specialises in fluid power/fuel lines so ive decide to just remake the fuel lines in the engine bay inclusive of any quick connect fittings/elbows - i`m going to leave the priming pump out and fit a tap in t peices to allow progressive vacuum bleeding in a variation of locations, hopefully this should put any doubt i have about the fuel pump being chuffed to bed.

i did try towing it around the block earlier which had no effect.

i must appologise for my spelling in my first post, i was thinking with the heart
.. i do hate french cars but love french diesel engines - as for the blue badge well at least the circled the problem


thanks for the reply john
 

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tbh id check all your fuel leak off pipes and connections to the filter etc. after 3 days of trying i suspect you are drawing air in somewhere, cos its definately not that tricky. after i pumped mine, it literally fired on the first turn of the starter.
 

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its total madness mate, it`ll pump fine for about 6 pumps then a small trickle may then come through, but still nothing at the outlet of the HP fuel pump and prior to the work being carried out this car was a good runner from an honest source.

i`ll also make a fuel filter bypass pipe tomorrow


i can leak test the leak off pipes using an instument in work, the pipes did get replaced. Thinking about it i can test the whole fuel system from filter inlet to tank return for leakage - thanks for the idea.

thinking about it even more if the pump is getting its re-circ fuel supply regardless of any airation it should at least try to output unless there is a restriction, blockage or a solenoid not operating within the pump, i am sborrowing a code reader tomorrow and from there i might try a back flush by swapping the inlet over to the outlet
 

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Hello. I have a problem with the glow plugs on my Fiesta 1.4 TDCI, year of 2008. Can someone tell me where are the glow plugs located on the motor?
Thank you in advance.
 

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unfortunately theyre right on the back of the block facing the bulkhead, you may well need to remove the air filter air inlets and cam cover to even get close. its tricky and tight and you are going to need the manual dexterity of a gyneocologist to get at them. to complicate things, theyre tiny and you need to be really careful when trying to get them out not to snap them off.
 

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Little Megger
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well i`m still getting air out of the thing after like three days of pumping, i work for an automotive supplier that specialises in fluid power/fuel lines so ive decide to just remake the fuel lines in the engine bay inclusive of any quick connect fittings/elbows - i`m going to leave the priming pump out and fit a tap in t peices to allow progressive vacuum bleeding in a variation of locations, hopefully this should put any doubt i have about the fuel pump being chuffed to bed.

i did try towing it around the block earlier which had no effect.

i must appologise for my spelling in my first post, i was thinking with the heart
.. i do hate french cars but love french diesel engines - as for the blue badge well at least the circled the problem


thanks for the reply john
how did you finaly get this started?
just done a seal change on a TDCi and can't start the dam thing either, took over 100 pumps to get the grenade hard and it will run on a spray of sniff but will not start on it's own fuel, been trying to get it to start for 4 hours today
 

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Little Megger
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well i`m still getting air out of the thing after like three days of pumping, i work for an automotive supplier that specialises in fluid power/fuel lines so ive decide to just remake the fuel lines in the engine bay inclusive of any quick connect fittings/elbows - i`m going to leave the priming pump out and fit a tap in t peices to allow progressive vacuum bleeding in a variation of locations, hopefully this should put any doubt i have about the fuel pump being chuffed to bed.

i did try towing it around the block earlier which had no effect.

i must appologise for my spelling in my first post, i was thinking with the heart
.. i do hate french cars but love french diesel engines - as for the blue badge well at least the circled the problem


thanks for the reply john
how did you finaly get this started?
just done a seal change on a TDCi and can't start the dam thing either, took over 100 pumps to get the grenade hard and it will run on a spray of sniff but will not start on it's own fuel, been trying to get it to start for 4 hours today

[/quote]

To answer my own question i had to strip it all back again, bleed the H/P pump from it's return (on top with quick release on the end) using a 2nd hand vac pump, then quickly pop the pipe back on and pump the installed hand primer, i then cracked off the hard lines from the injectors and span the motor over till there was a good flow of just diesel from under the nuts (injector wiring unplugged) and then tighten while still cranking, i then bled all the air out using the primer, rebuilt it all back up and it started on the button.I'd been at this 3 days trying to start it by running it on brake cleaner but no joy, these are Bstds to clear the air out of !!Great write up by the way spot on except if you get an airlock in the main pump and hard lines, then you need prozak LOL
 
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