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Hello All

Firstly i am Danish, so my english will not be perfect.

I have retrofitted original ACC on my 2008 2.0 TDCi Mondeo Titanium. I was not able to find any english guides, but i managed to find some Polish and Czech guides. Google translate helped me a lot. And a very big thanks to the user MM32 from the polish forum at www.fordclubpolska.pl. MM32 helped me a lot when i had programming issues.

First a little discaimer: I am not responsible for what ever happens to you, your car, cats, children or gold fish. In short follow this guide at your own risk.

I only have data for the pre-facelift (MK4), information can quite easy be found for the facelifted version.

The Czech forum guide is located here: http://www.ford-focus.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=175&p=1003166&sid=18773cc042a284135f1ef6ff073d931c But you need to register, and of course google translate is a must. There is information there about the facelifted version and wirering, if your car dont have the wiring loom installed already.

You don't need to be a car engineer to follow this guide (I am only a marine engineer ;) ) But some basic car skills may be required. All direction (right, left, back forward) is told as sitting behind the steering wheel.

Prerequisites for this guide:

  • Mondeo MK4 (not MK4.5)
  • Wiring loom present (more about that next)
  • ABS/ESP capable of assisted hill start
  • Convers+ (maybe the large red LED info will do also)
  • Modified ELM327 cable that works at high speeds

Wiring loom

How to check if wiring loom is present:

  • Radar
    • Remove the plastic cover over the radiator
    • On the right side of the console holding the bonnet latch, the radar plug should be connected to a plastic dummy socket. The radar plug has 5 wires
  • Control module
    • Remove the glovebox
    • Look in the upper left part in front, over where the glovebox normally is mounted.
    • A lager yellow socket should be located there.

I have read about cars with both plugs, about cars with the plug for the radar, but not the control module. I have also read that MK4 titaniums always have both plugs. But nothing I would rate as solid information.

Radar plug:

Camera lens Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Camera accessory Automotive tire Audio equipment


Plug for control module (Orange circle)

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


Components needed

If you got the wiring loom, then just start to scan ebay og breakers for parts:

  • Radar: 7G9N-9G853-BA or 7G9N-9G853-BB (remember to buy a unit with the mounting bracket)
  • Controlmodule: 6G9N-14B588-BB or 6G9N-14B588-BC or 6G9N-14B588-BD or 6G9N-14B588-BE or AG9N-14B588-BA.
  • Buttons: 6M2T-14K147-EC or 6M2T-14K147-ED or 6M2T-14K147-ef or 6M2T-14K147-EG or 6M2T-14K147-EH.
  • Maybe a new radiator grill with a cover for the radar. (Right now I have not fitted that, no troubles yet.)

The radiator grill for ACC has a solid piece of plastic in front of the radar, to prevent dirt from smudging the radar. I have only driven 150 km with my radar, no smudging yet.

Buttons for ACC

Car Speedometer Vehicle Motor vehicle White


Installation of radar

This is a piece of cake. Unmount the plastic cover (the plastic devils pin holding it in place might break, but they are cheap at Ford.) Unmount the cable from the dummy slot, cut the ziptie if present, so it can move to the right side of the radar.

Now slide the radar down, the 3 6mm pins of the bracket has matching holes in the plastic for mounting. I had to remove a little piece plastic bend of scoop for the airfilter intake.

When in place, screw tight with 3pc. 6mm nuts and washers. The lower right i quite hard to reach. But a 1/4" long socket and spanner will do the trick

Plug in the cable. and done.

Radar:

Office equipment Gun accessory Gun barrel Trigger Air gun


Radar mounted:

Bumper Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Tints and shades


Installation of control module

Again, a walk in the park :) Remove the glovebox (Again), plug in the control module, and ziptie in the somewhere. Done !

Electronic component Electric blue Font Rectangle Circuit component


Installation of buttons

Remove the airbag. (disconnect the battery, check you have the radio code) wait 20 minutes.

This is quite a tricky spot. First unclip the plastic shells covering the steering column. Move the steering column all the way back towards youself. Turn the stering wheel 90 degrees to the right. From the front, you can now find a hole where a rigid clip is retaining the airbag is in the deep. The trouble is to see what you are doing. I used my phones selfie camera, so i could se what i was doing. Stick in a flat screw driver (ca. 8mm head) and twist the clip, and the airbag is released. It takes some tinkering, but it is possible.

Then back to straight with the steering wheel and repeat the procedure. Then 90 degrees to the left and repeat again.

Now you airbag is loose, i fastened the airbag to the steering wheel with a ziptie, and did not unmount the 2 wires.

The buttons are held in place by 3 screw. Torx20 head. One screw is under the airbag, two from the back. Notice that a bit screwdriver is too big to get in the hole for the two screws. You need a dedicated T20 screwdriver. Unplug and remove old buttons.

Mount the new buttons, and mount the airbag, by simply pressing it back in place. Easy as that. Remount plastic cover. Connect battery, and push radio code. Done.

This video helped me a bit


Reprogramming the BCM (Body control module) and IPC (Instrument panel cluster)

First have a good modified ELM327 cable. Elmconfig V.0.2.10

Connect and read the central configuration fra the BCM. SAVE IT!

Now you have 2 edit 3 posts:

Page 2: With cruise control to With adaptive cruise control

Page 4: Without forward collision warning to With forward collision warning

Page 4: Without CMbB system to Collision mitigation by braking

Write central configuration to BCM, then to IPC (do not worry about warnings and noises :) ) Then clear all DTCs ( I use forscan)

Page 2:

Product Rectangle Azure Font Screenshot


Page 4:

Rectangle Azure Font Screenshot Parallel


Cross your fingers and start your car

Now a collision warning lamp should appear. Mine was blinking and a text said " ACC aligning" (I have the Convers+ Mod installed, so I am not aware of the original versions design of warnings and so on.)

Go for a drive, find som cars to follow. I drove around 8-10 miles, then the system was ready. Some have reported up to 30 miles driving before it was calibrated.

I really hope that this guide is good enough to inspire somebody to do this installation, cruising A roads and motorway is really comfortable with ACC. The forward collision warning is also nice.

Regards Tommy Fer
 

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MEG Corporal
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Great guide. My only comment is you don't have to cable tie the module. The mounting is there for it next to Bluetooth module. Just need 2 screws to hold in place
 
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Cracking guide tommyfer - I've bought a radar last Friday (the final piece that I need)... Then to fit it all... I'm sure I'll be calling on your expertise tommy and Gary!
You haven't mentioned about the abs pump though... Did you have to change yours in order for autobrake function to work?
Thanks, mark
 

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You might be very lucky and already have HLA, hill launch assist, so you'll have the required pump already. If you don't you will have to change ABS pump/module and ESP/yaw sensor module.

You want an ABS pump starting 7G, 8G or 9G (no later for preface) and ending in FA or FB.

For instance 9G91-2C404-FA

And an ESP/yaw sensor ending in EG. For instance. 6G91-3C187-EG. Your basic one and most on ebay end in AG.

You'll then have to get both modules programmed/configured with IDS. Cant be done with elm config as immobiliser is linked to ABS module. Hill launch can only be turned on in IDS also
 

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Thanks Gary. Would I be that lucky, yet not have the HLA option in convers - isn't that where you set it for 'auto' and 'manual' mode?
In either case, I have the correct esp/yaw sensor, and the correct abs pump, so its just a case of having those fitted and hla enabled.
Is there a 'best' order - I don't want to have the garage fit the abs pump, me fit the yaw sensor, back to type garage to have HLA enabled, then fit the radar and module, then new buttons and back to the garage for anything... I don't mind if I scupper standard cc for a few weeks, over which time I can get the buttons, radar, module and yaw sensor fitted... All doing nothing. Then the garage for the abs pump and IDS programming... Then, I can enabled the options tommy has said, in elmconfig - and then, it should all be good... Or can it not be fitted bit by bit - would that break other stuff? Sorry... Jumping on someone else's thread!
 

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MEG Corporal
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I think I fitted all the bits first and left the pump and module and programming till last. And like you say, as soon as you fit the different steering wheel switch, you'll lose normal cruise control
 
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I started from ABS pump and Yaw sensor, few months later I added radar module and steering wheel with buttons, I programed all by myself in my car ????
 
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Great How To. Only one question, what has the ABS/ESP pump to do with it? Because of the breaking?
And how can i see/test that i have one.

I do have both plugs. (Titanium S edition)

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The abs pump has to have the auto brake function - I'm guessing that's so when the radar picks up a vehicle in front, it passes a,signal to the module, which tells the car (abs pump) to brake/slow down... I assume.
The esp/yaw sensor I think has a level sensor in it - I don't know why this is necessary for acc, but it is...
I've no idea where the abs pump is - I've had a quick look, but I can't find the bugger... Yaw sensor is under the drivers seat. I could be arsed finding the part number of either that I've got fitted, and just bought replacements. If I don't need what I've bought, I'll stick them back on eBay!!
 

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I'm assuming I have the basic one, as most cars do where HLA isn't enabled, because it can't be. See Gary's comment:
'6G91-3C187-EG. Your basic one and most on ebay end in AG.'
I had to search eBay for ages to find an 'EG' one. I can't see why, if I had the option for HLA (correct abs pump and correct yaw sensor), it wouldn't be enable - which is why I assume I only have the standard yaw sensor and standard abs pump... But who knows! I work in IT, and the number of 'standard' pieces of kit I see that aren't the same as the identical one next to it, is amazing!
 

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ABS pump is behind battery on bulkhead.

I don't know why the adaptive cruise or forward alert need the uprated ESP sensor. I think the IVDC needs it so for example, it can sense when the car is nose-diving and adjust the shocks accordingly.

The hill launch assist definitely needs it though. As you say, its got a level sensor in it, so it can tell when you are on an incline.

The Yaw sensor is already in the car. I just dont know if i have the Hill assist.

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If you have hill assist, it will be in your settings. AUTO, MANUAL or OFF. If you've never come across it, I doubt you have it
 

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I don't think so
 

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No chance, but if you got at least elm with elm config you should be able to pull out that info from your abs/esp module.
The answer already been told, abs pump need to be changed for acc to let abs pump brake when needed, basic abs pump dont have that ability, yaw sensor need to be change for hla purposes because the basic one only detected some kind if movements and basically it's suitable only for alarm, to detect level of the car you need better yaw sensor.
 
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vieplis
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Installation of buttons

Remove the airbag. (disconnect the battery, check you have the radio code) wait 20 minutes.

This is quite a tricky spot. First unclip the plastic shells covering the steering column. Move the steering column all the way back towards youself. Turn the stering wheel 90 degrees to the right. From the front, you can now find a hole where a rigid clip is retaining the airbag is in the deep. The trouble is to see what you are doing. I used my phones selfie camera, so i could se what i was doing. Stick in a flat screw driver (ca. 8mm head) and twist the clip, and the airbag is released. It takes some tinkering, but it is possible.

Then back to straight with the steering wheel and repeat the procedure. Then 90 degrees to the left and repeat again.

Now you airbag is loose, i fastened the airbag to the steering wheel with a ziptie, and did not unmount the 2 wires.

The buttons are held in place by 3 screw. Torx20 head. One screw is under the airbag, two from the back. Notice that a bit screwdriver is too big to get in the hole for the two screws. You need a dedicated T20 screwdriver. Unplug and remove old buttons.

Mount the new buttons, and mount the airbag, by simply pressing it back in place. Easy as that. Remount plastic cover. Connect battery, and push radio code. Done.
Few clarifications to ease removal of the airbag and the buttons on Mk4 vehicles made until mid-2009 or thereabouts. The following is based on Ford's and Haynes' information, and on own experience with the Mk4 in signature.

Airbag units and the corresponding steering wheels differ, and so do their removal methods.
Earlier type (2007 to mid-2009?) has 3 affixing points - 3 lugs on the airbag unit, 3 U-shaped wire springs on the steering wheel;
Later type (mid-2009? onwards) has 2 affixing points - 2 straight wire springs on the airbag unit, 2 lugs on the steering wheel:
nWNtStp.jpg

The change took place earlier than the release of facelift Mk4.5 models. Haynes' page 12-26 mentions 13 July 2009 as the date of change. Parts systems mention 14 July 2009 for airbags. Confusingly, parts systems also list steering wheels of periods starting before and ending after those dates. Therefore, to be fully sure:
- confirm presence of a cut / opening on the lower surface, as shown further down in this post; and/or
- have a peek between the steering wheel and the steering column plastic shrouds - identify size, shape and distance from the outer perimeter of the bright uncoated area of the flat plane. E.g., when viewed from below (besides the uncoated area, notice also the distinctive lug of the earlier type):
nw4zPNQ.jpg

ecwIkL7.jpg


Removal of the later 2-point type (mid-2009? onwards) is well-described and shown in images in Haynes manual. See also here
, except for choice of battery pole at 0:10.

Removal of the earlier 3-point type (2007 to mid-2009?) in Haynes manual lacks images and, compared to Ford's instructions, suggests unnecessary steps No 2 (shrouds) and 4 (screwdriver for the upper lugs).

First-hand experience on removal of the earlier 3-point type (2007 to mid-2009?) in accordance with Ford's instructions ("front" = vehicle's engine bay, "rear" = vehicle's rear):
- Disconnect the battery (-)negative connection to the body. Wait.
- Ignore Haynes' step 2. The shrouds stay in place.
- Locate a cut / opening on the lower surface of the steering wheel - approximately 2/5 from the left and 3/5 from the right, approximately 1/4 from the front and 3/4 from the rear. Albeit very subtle, hard to notice and "self-healing" after use, a pre-made cross-shaped cut should be there.
NG6rKmj.jpg

d7PCONc.jpg

This cut is a gateway to the channel which leads to the lowest of the 3 U-shaped wire springs.
CGQ9qAC.jpg

VYVBORy.jpg

Insert a flat-blade screwdriver in the cut / opening approximately 3cm upwards until its tip touches the U-shaped wire spring (I used one with a 4,5mm blade, a wider blade shall fit).
5MHuwNU.jpg

- Push the screwdriver upwards to release the spring from the lug and simultaneously
either pull the lower edge of the airbag rearwards (as suggested in Haynes)
or let the lower side of the airbag release itself (mine did that - literally jumped towards rear, owing to force of coil spring around the lug and smooth contact surface of the lug).
nL9wRBz.jpg

- Ignore Haynes' step 4. Instead, ...
- Lift the airbag upwards + slightly rearwards, thus releasing the upper part of the airbag (again, mine literally jumped up-/rearwards).
KHvqoK0.jpg

- Disconnect plug and leads... (image count restriction, see the following post).
 

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vieplis
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...continued.

- Disconnect plug and leads:

nFOKgUD.jpg


- Airbag unit is free to be moved aside:

bbusWwV.jpg


With column shrouds still in place, the buttons can be removed, as described by the author of this thread:

The buttons are held in place by 3 screw. Torx20 head. One screw is under the airbag, two from the back. Notice that a bit screwdriver is too big to get in the hole for the two screws. You need a dedicated T20 screwdriver. Unplug and remove old buttons.

Mount the new buttons, and mount the airbag, by simply pressing it back in place. Easy as that. .... Connect battery, and push radio code. Done.
P.S.
1) Haynes' steps 2 and 4 might still be necessary if somebody has already been in there and damaged coil springs around the lugs and/or the smooth contact surfaces of the lugs.
2) Please complement this thread/post with your findings regarding the end date of the later type (i.e., whether the post-mid-2009 later type was also used throughout the facelift Mk4.5's lifespan until the end of 2014).
 

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I was quite interested in this posting for my pre-face lift 2010 2.0 TDCI Titanium, went to my garage this morning and checked and I do not have the wiring on the bonnet latch plate. We that`s one mod I have to forget about
 
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