Ford Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Megger
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

a problem has appeared today on my 2007 Mk3 Ghia.

The ignition switch turns on OK, but will not turn to the "start" position - as if it's already been started and the lockout has engaged.

Presumably that is not dis-engaging as it should with the key in the off position...

I've managed to unstick it a couple of times by rattling the steering wheel side to side with the lock on, but it's already taking several minutes to get it unstuck and I suspect that will not work at all very soon.

Does anyone know what part of the overall lock & switch assembly contains the start lockout mechanism? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere.

Any help appreciated!

Robert.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
Id recommend changing the ignition barrel for a new one, or buying an ignition barrel barrel repair kit. It depends on how you rate your DIY skills as to which option you choose.

Have a search in this site, there should be several threads on the subject.
 

·
Megger
Joined
·
100 Posts
Hi, thanks for the reply.

Is the start lockout mechanism in the barrel itself? I've seen the kits and the appear to be a fairly conventional lock mechanism, with the steering lock and electrical switch as separate sections.

I cannot find any info or exploded view for the central section of the overall lock assembly, with the steering lock mechanics etc.

The key/lock itself and the steering lock are fine, the fault is the key will not go beyond the normal running position to "start", exactly as if it had already been turned to that & needed to be turned off for another start attempt - but turning it off does not re-enable start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,381 Posts
Hi

What is condition of key, are edges a little worn with use? A worn key will not rotate tumblers fully to allow rotation of switch.

Do you have a spare key to try?

Peter
 

·
Megger
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The key looks perfect.

The switch works fine through the off / accessory / run positions, it's just the start that keeps jamming.

The only thing that frees it it is violently rattling the wheel back & forth in the steering lock (with the key out) then trying again.

After a while, it will allow the start position - once.

Without the mechanical shaking it never frees up.
 

·
Big Megger
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
looking at pics on eBay it appears that the ign lock is a sealed unit so a new one may be the only cure unless you try squirting some lubricant into the keyhole and see of that helps. Didn't see any repair kits for a Mk4 only a Mk3.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
Maybe we need to start all using the same 'describing' words.
There is no mechanical way the ignition barrel won't turn fully and as long as the correct key is used the leaves inside barrel will turn correctly.
With the correct key in a working ignition barrel the key will move he leaves inside the barrel into line and the barrel will rotate. There is a lug at the far end of the barrel that operates the ignition switch.

If the internal leaves are damaged or worn they may not allow the lock to operate correctly. When the leaves are in line (with a key inserted) they make room for a brass rod within the lock to allow the key to turn. If he rod can't moved or becomes dislodged the barrel will not operate correctly.

The ignition barrel doesn't have any other key keeping or security features that other makes of car have.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
looking at pics on eBay it appears that the ign lock is a sealed unit so a new one may be the only cure unless you try squirting some lubricant into the keyhole and see of that helps. Didn't see any repair kits for a Mk4 only a Mk3.
The car in question is a mk3 according to the OPs signature. The barrels aren't sealed and repair its are available. Fitting a new set of internal leaves and rod is pretty straight forward :)
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
The rod shown in amongst the leaves in this kit may be what is causing the problem
Font Screenshot Electronic device Software Multimedia
 

Attachments

·
Big Megger
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Appologies - I misread the mark as a Mk4, as said repairing the lock repair should be fairly straight forward, I did a bonnet lock and replaced the leaves - the ign should be the same process.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
Appologies - I misread the mark as a Mk4, as said repairing the lock repair should be fairly straight forward, I did a bonnet lock and replaced the leaves - the ign should be the same process.
I wondered if it was a mk4 too at first :)
The ignition barrel is harder than the bonnet or door locks but it's simply a case of looking at what you remove from the damaged lock and the order of he parts in order to see how it goes back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,525 Posts
Have you tried taking the switch off the barrel then seeing if the key rotates? Or taking the barrel out then trying a screwdriver in the switch? Some cars the bit that prevents you switching to the start position without switching off first is in the switch, not the lock (if you see what I mean).

TBH I can't remember how the barrel comes out, but normally its very easy if you have the correct key - just a spring loaded retaining clip of some sort that can be released once the key is turned a bit.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
Have you tried taking the switch off the barrel then seeing if the key rotates? Or taking the barrel out then trying a screwdriver in the switch? Some cars the bit that prevents you switching to the start position without switching off first is in the switch, not the lock (if you see what I mean).

TBH I can't remember how the barrel comes out, but normally its very easy if you have the correct key - just a spring loaded retaining clip of some sort that can be released once the key is turned a bit.
p

It's a retaining pin on the mk3. But I'm not sure if 'very easy' is the description dome posters would use hahahahaha.
Haynes recommend removing the steering wheel trims and steering wheel in order to get to the pin.
 

·
Big Megger
Joined
·
2,886 Posts
on my old focus remember removing the barrel then putting a finger into the barrel hole and pressing a spring loaded tab to take the lock off...i then drove it with a screwdriver in the switch part until my new barrel arrived.

doubt the outer part is broke , that looks a nightmare to get off,,,airbag, security screws etc
 

·
Megger
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the replies, but is not a problem with the lock/cylinder mechanism,

The key and cylinder work perfectly.

Somewhere else in the "guts" of the overall steering lock/switch unit there is a mechanism that presents the key being turned from the running position to the "start" position more than once.

That's the bit that has failed - I just cannot figure out where it is.

That's the question I am asking - where is that "start lockout" mechanism??

It's not part of the cylinder mechanism (I bought a repair kit on the offchance), so that leaves the switch or the central body.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
Thanks for the replies, but is not a problem with the lock/cylinder mechanism,

The key and cylinder work perfectly.

Somewhere else in the "guts" of the overall steering lock/switch unit there is a mechanism that presents the key being turned from the running position to the "start" position more than once.

That's the bit that has failed - I just cannot figure out where it is.
That's the question I am asking - where is that "start lockout" mechanism??

It's not part of the cylinder mechanism (I bought a repair kit on the offchance), so that leaves the switch or the central body.
As per above, there isn't a part that does that, which is why you can't find it.
 

·
Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
Joined
·
13,194 Posts
I've just re read you initial posts. Maybe we should start again from scratch.
To me your initial posts read that the key wouldn't turn to the start position (position 3) and would only turn to position 2. You said that it's as though the key had already been turned to position 3 so wouldn't go there again. I think this is what has mislead some of the replies as in normal operation the key can be turned to position 3 repeatedly even if the car is already running. That would damage the starter motor but it CAN be done.

So, as there is no lock out on the ignition barrel or switch are we actually talking about the steering lock being engaged?
 

·
Big Megger
Joined
·
2,886 Posts
yea little confusing, but seem to remember the 'switch part' which unclips from the barrel is spring loaded between the last positions...so maybe the spring in the switch broke.

or maybe i still dont understand.
 

·
Megger
Joined
·
100 Posts
I ordered a replacement ignition switch unit (the electrical section) after finding it was nothing to do with the cylinder.

The switch has just arrived and the lockout is in that.

Just turning it with a screwdriver to test, it will go to "Start" once then block that position until turned off.

raynkar - your switch is broken if it will allow "start" more than once without being turned off in between..
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top