[johnbirch49]

got a 2008 58 mondeo ghia 1.8tdci,
got in this morning and i got inmobilser active (sorry bout spelling lol)

car wont start help needed was fine yesterday any ideas what it could be?

called out a auto electrition and he re programed both keys still no luck anyone got any tips?

 

[Pichacker]

First things first. NEVER REPROGRAM the keys if you have an immobiliser fault and it was working one day and not the next with both keys!!! The reason for this is that if there is a problem with the transceiver you'll make matters worse. However, is your car keyless or does it have normal keys? The immobiliser active message will appear if there are any errors on the system. Assuming that your car has normal keys this could be a fault on the ABS module, Body Control Module or event the Engine control module. Does your auto electrician have the equipment to interrogate all of these modules? A read of the fault codes or even the possibility of non communication with one of the modules will give a clue as to the issue. If you clear the information message with the ignition on do you still see the mileage reading in the cluster? If you have a keyless start then the situation is different. Also does anyone know how to get carriage returns to work on this forum with IE10?

 

[Pichacker]

I have known of a few Mondeos that have had corrosion in the loom at the front of the car which can give various intermittent faults one of them is the "immobiliser active" message during cranking. The exact fault symptoms will depend upon which wires are in trouble.

 

[johnbirch49]

i still see the cluster, the electrition said its coming back as a fault with th body control module. i have normal keys its book in at fords to morrow? u got any ideas? the auto electrition said the bcm is getting the signal but not sending one back

 

[tgille]

Bit late for recent posts but may be useful to someone who has the immobiliser problem I had this problem when my Mondeo 2008 MK 4 due to my battery going flat I had to call out breakdown service who after great difficulty managed to get it going ( he said he did`nt really know how to do it but after phoning someone came back and tried a few things eventually he got it going and admitted it was more luck than anything ) recently I had the problem to my battery going flat again I thought here we go again I decided rather than call out the breakdown I would try and remember what he did what a joke I had`nt a clue I knew he took the air filter of so I did this then I disconnected the battery that was as far I could remember I had heard sometimes with elec probs disconnecting the battery and leaving for a while sometimes cures it so I left it for about an hour when I put it all back again to my surprise it started so to anyone who does get this problem try it you will have to reset your memory settings so you will need your radio code I dont know why he took the air filter off as I did not need to do this to access the battery lead.

 

[wh0s_the_daddy]

I had this last year.

So i disconnected the battery for 20mins, reconnected and the fault cleared.

cheers

 

[Paul410]

I have got this problem now?

I had damaged key fob case, so ordered new case for the key, swapped the internals and battery to the new case, key fob lock's-unlocks the car, works the ignition, then I get the message IMOBALISER ACTIVE and the car wont start? tried disconnecting the battery for an hour, battery on charge, then reconnected it and still get the same message? friend plugged laptop in and car error message was, unable to communicate to pats? any help please

 

[Pichacker]

When you swapped over the key case what happened to the transponder in the key?

What type of key did you have? Flip or older 3 button?

After all everything was ok until you "mended" the key?

Do you have a spare key to try?

 

[Pichacker]

BTW the transponder is a little black chip that will be...

Flip Key - Moulded into the part of the key that holds the blade.

3 Button Remote - The transponder is moulded into the back of the remote control case (the half that holds the battery)

 

[robg]

Sorry if this is a bit late to help the initial problems but it may help someone in the future. This is my first post so Hi! to everyone.

My problem started when I was trying to find battery voltage drain in my engine compartment fuse board (yes the dreaded flat battery syndrome).

I had pulled a few fuses and inadvertently put a 5 amp fuse in at no. 6 position instead of no. 36 position (ABS). Well it was dark and at my age the memory is sometimes short!! No 6 by the way on my car should be empty.

On trying to start the engine I got the dreaded 'Immobiliser active' message and the engine was a non starter.

After realising my mistake I put the 5 amp fuse back into its proper position at 36 and guess what message gone and engine fired up no problem.

Dread to think if I hadn't identified the mistake how much it could have cost me if the car had gone into a dealers. An expensive fuse!! No 36 fuse relates to the ABS so if anyone can tell me any different what's this got to do with Anti theft devises. Anyone got a decent Electrical line diagram, because I cannot find a decent reliable one.

So the moral to this is if you get the dreaded 'Immobiliser active' message just maybe it might be a fuse.

 

[r10ants]

I have got this problem now?

I had damaged key fob case, so ordered new case for the key, swapped the internals and battery to the new case, key fob lock's-unlocks the car, works the ignition, then I get the message IMOBALISER ACTIVE and the car wont start? tried disconnecting the battery for an hour, battery on charge, then reconnected it and still get the same message? friend plugged laptop in and car error message was, unable to communicate to pats? any help please

Sorry if this is a bit late to help the initial problems but it may help someone in the future. This is my first post so Hi! to everyone.

My problem started when I was trying to find battery voltage drain in my engine compartment fuse board (yes the dreaded flat battery syndrome).

I had pulled a few fuses and inadvertently put a 5 amp fuse in at no. 6 position instead of no. 36 position (ABS). Well it was dark and at my age the memory is sometimes short!! No 6 by the way on my car should be empty.

On trying to start the engine I got the dreaded 'Immobiliser active' message and the engine was a non starter.

After realising my mistake I put the 5 amp fuse back into its proper position at 36 and guess what message gone and engine fired up no problem.

Dread to think if I hadn't identified the mistake how much it could have cost me if the car had gone into a dealers. An expensive fuse!! No 36 fuse relates to the ABS so if anyone can tell me any different what's this got to do with Anti theft devises. Anyone got a decent Electrical line diagram, because I cannot find a decent reliable one.

So the moral to this is if you get the dreaded 'Immobiliser active' message just maybe it might be a fuse.

I have the same problem now.. the aa came and got me running.
Nextday I had along drive to recharge the batt .
Next day .. immobiliser active(again). No crank. This has eaten my 3 day long weekend to nothing.
Too many sensors in these cars, all working against each other.
The road to hell is paved with good intentions...
Your Sincerely
Peed off

 

[pop4richard]

I have the same problem. Very little in the manual to help. Not impressed with the Ford manual.

 

[Christoflegend]

I had this issue recently when I changed the pollen filter....I was under impression i could unplug bcm with no issues ,,how wrong lol .so yeh dreaded immobiser message tried disconnect battery for an hour no joy 2 hours no joy..so gave up left it off overnight connected back up in morning and boom started ....the fecker!!!