[Almighty_kevy]

Hi Ford people

I am a proud owner of a Ford Mondeo 2003 2.0 TDCI … the beast is boasting a mind-blowing 235,000 km on her, and still runs like a dream … to me.

Recently after a long trip from Ukraine, almost 5000 KMS, the car has developed a bad knocking sound coming from the timing chain.

I will try to make a video recording tomorrow of the sound … it's louder than the engine, so you'll definitely hear it.

Ran some diagnostics on the car, and it spit out a P2337 cylinder 2 knock threshold, I do know that the injectors need some TLC anyway.

But the thing worrying me the most is the knocking sound coming from the timing chain … I can only hope it's just a tensioner … that boomerang shaped thingy.

Also, I'm planning an EGR cleaning tomorrow, which I hope helps out a bit.

One other issue is the car will also stall when going uphill, and you think of flooring it … it's like the engine is just non-responsive to any hard acceleration … but I think that has to do with limp mode.

Any ideas here would be great, thanks a bunch

 

[PURPLE_2L_LX]

Are you sure its not just the belt tensioner or the crank pulley. Why a crank pulley needs to be made of
cheese is beyind me but I think they call it progress.. Certainly helps release money from your wallet
on parts that used to be solid metal and never failed.

 

[Almighty_kevy]

Are you sure its not just the belt tensioner or the crank pulley. Why a crank pulley needs to be made of
cheese is beyind me but I think they call it progress.. Certainly helps release money from your wallet
on parts that used to be solid metal and never failed.

Wow .. I actually didn't think of that.
As far as I know, any meddling with the timing chain will need the whole engine pulled out of the car to access the timing chain housing, which is going to be expensive, and if it comes to that I'm just going to replace the whole engine.

I'll check the crank pulley tomorrow as well, since I'm going to be working on the EGR valve anyways.

Hopefully it's something simple and nothing to do with the chain.

But from your experience, is it true?
Do you actually have to pull the whole engine out of the car to replace timing chains or timing tensioners?

 

[PURPLE_2L_LX]

No you can do the chain in the engine bay but is it faster to remove the engine? Possibly.

Restricted room and having to support the engine after you remove the mounts etc. A lot to strip down.

 

[nicam49]

You need to clear that p2337 first. The only way to do that is to recode the injector (you actually get the injector's 16 digit hex code from the label on the injector and rewrite it to the PCM module. BUT the gotcha with an early model like yours is 'ordinary' code readers fail to write the code into the correct memory address, so you'll need to use Forscan with a reader from tunnelrat electronics, or another one that is known to work with early models like yours. If you successfully program the code, the limp mode will clear. If the injector is marginal then it may be OK for quit a while before the code returns. Mine went 3years after clearing!

 

[Almighty_kevy]

Alright here's the video recording of that annoying knock sound.
I highly doubt at this moment that it's from the chain.

So here's a test I ran ... I turned on all the electronics I have in the car, like seat heaters, headlights, high beams and fog lights, plus the windshield heaters.
The knocking sound got much louder than in the video and it was continuous ... gets way worse when you turn on the AC .. I kid you not, the engine starts to actually roar.

Gosh I hate letting other people drive my car ... causes nothing but trouble.

Stupid knock/rattle sound.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[Almighty_kevy]

You need to clear that p2337 first. The only way to do that is to recode the injector (you actually get the injector's 16 digit hex code from the label on the injector and rewrite it to the PCM module. BUT the gotcha with an early model like yours is 'ordinary' code readers fail to write the code into the correct memory address, so you'll need to use Forscan with a reader from tunnelrat electronics, or another one that is known to work with early models like yours. If you successfully program the code, the limp mode will clear. If the injector is marginal then it may be OK for quit a while before the code returns. Mine went 3years after clearing!

Hmm, yes you're right about that.
Ordinary reader fail big time in reading the codes ... one of the mechanics I took the car to actually showed him all injectors with the code of 16 zeros and a few ones ... something like "00001100010011", which I know for a fact is not true because I programmed the injectors back in Ukraine and the codes were different.

Could I ask you to recommend me a good reader that I can order from ebay or something?,
There's tons of them on ebay and it takes at least a week or two for delivery.

 

[nicam49]

Yours is an early model like mine and you can't READ the injector codes, only write them on the early models. I know that readers from tunnrat electronics are compatible, and they run on either a Windows laptop or theres an Android version too. They run on software called Forscan, but I don't think they sell them outside UK. You'd have to Google them. A guy called Steve Elmer.
Alternatively, one was developed by a chap in Czech Republic, it's called Fordiag and runs on its own software, again you need a Windows laptop with a USB port to plug it into. Here's a link to a thread on the forum about it

ForDiag Current Status

This product has some exciting capabilities for diagnosing engine problems and offers greater scope and flexibility than F-Super. Having said that, ForDiag is still in early production and it is only to be expected that there may be wrinkles that still need to be ironed out. I don't claim to...

www.talkford.com

I can't recommend any on ebay.

 

[PURPLE_2L_LX]

Steve Elmer (tunnelrat) sells them on ebay, he will ship abroad with that also. Think someone
commented recently the website sill not ship outside the UK but when they contacted they
advised to use ebay.

 

[nicam49]

Hi Purple! I didn't know Tunnelrat were now posting to Europe, via ebay, so that's good to know. 👍

 

[Almighty_kevy]

Hi Purple! I didn't know Tunnelrat were now posting to Europe, via ebay, so that's good to know. 👍

So just to let you guys know.
I ordered the auto switch modified ELM327 .. but it was canceled and refunded by Steve.

Apparently they don't deliver internationally after brexit.

So he suggested I get the Vlinker or the modified ELM327 with switch instead.

Now I'm just waiting for Steve to confirm that it's possible to code the injectors with the vlinker or the latter.

Will keep you guys updated if you're interested

 

[PURPLE_2L_LX]

Was that on ebay or direct from the website?

 

[Almighty_kevy]

Was that on ebay or direct from the website?

Direct from the website.

So, he just replied and said that he hasn't tried the vlinker for old cars.
And he suggested me to get the USB modified ELM327 with switch for injector coding.

 

[PURPLE_2L_LX]

Checkout his listings on ebay. Steve Elmer.

Does not seem to have much listed. Only 1 showing.

Tunnelrat Electronics modified ELM327 Ford Forscan Elmconfig Focccus | eBay

Fully compatible with Forscan, Elmconfig, Focccus and Conversmod software. Genuine Tunnelrat Electronics modified ELM327 for Ford/Mazda vehicles only.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[nicam49]

If you can get one that runs Forscan it wld be preferable as it has its own development team (check out their website) and it supports utilities like abs pump bleed and the pro version also programmes keys, I understand.
This guy bought an OBDlinkex, but didn't do any injector programming with it.

Mondeo 2.0 TDCI (96KW) BWY (year 2004) - Engine Cut off...

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www.talkford.com