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can anyone tell me where i can buy canbus free led bulbs that work,ebay ones are shit and dont fit,just spent £70 on bulbs from abd bulbs,put front indicator bulbs in first flashing really fast(error)never known a bloody car like it,getting expensive now trying bulbs,might go back to original bulbs
 

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Often the canbus bit are just resistors so the car sees a load like the original bulb.

The resistors can be cheap and underpowered which tend to overheat very quickly.

Seen some 501's reach over 100ºC in a very short time. If you fit LED then buy

proper branded items from the big names. Expensive but they should be as

advertised.
 

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There seems to be a lot of misinformation out there about LED 'bulbs' and the need for resistors.
Let's just clear something up by going way, way back to senior school Physics and remind ourselves of two simple electrical formula. V=IxR and Power = V x I (I being current)
So, a 21W bulb, at 12V will draw 1.75 amps. This would represent a resistance across the bulb of just under 7 ohms.
Now we all know that LED's draw less current. So, using the V=IR equation, it follows that as the value of I falls, so the value of R will rise.
I therefore find it somewhat confusing that it is suggested that resistors should be added. If anything, bulb failure modules will be picking up an increased resistance anyway. Surely, when using such bulbs, any 'resistors' that should be added should be fitted in parallel in order to reduce the overall resistance in the circuit.
I've fitted LED versions of the small 5W capless bulbs in my interior lights and my puddle lamps and, surprise surpirse, Forscan regularly reports faults on the puddle lamps despite them functioning perfectly well.
This is the problem with retro fitting technology that the vehicle was never designed for
 
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