Help please. When i use the remote locking it opens everything but the drivers door i have to use the key to get into the drivers door. When inside i can lock all the doors using the drivers door handle but if i use the passenger door lock everything locks and opens again straight away. help please thanks in advance. :L
Locking problem on MK2
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Hi all
Sad to say you have a sticking micro switch inside the lock mechanism,this can be fixed if you're mad like me and able (very able) to take the lock apart ,fix the micro switch and put it all back together (three times),your best bet would be a scrapyard
John
Sad to say you have a sticking micro switch inside the lock mechanism,this can be fixed if you're mad like me and able (very able) to take the lock apart ,fix the micro switch and put it all back together (three times),your best bet would be a scrapyard
John
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Journeyman,nearly but not exact,it's the microswitches in the locking mechanism that stick causing the problems,the motors themselves are O.K.But these are supposed to be sealed units...
John
John
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JOHN is right about the microswitches as iv spent the last 2 weekends trying to sort my locks out i went to a breakers got a new one and still did the same ive had my car in bits you name it ive had it out then it dorned on me put the new and the old locks on my partners car and guess wot not one of them worked so i took one of them apart you have to drill one of the heads off but it can be done and now my old lock is back on the car working as it should .....THANKS JOHN.... :L
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[quote name=john.p.clegg]Hi all
Sad to say you have a sticking micro switch inside the lock mechanism,this can be fixed if you're mad like me and able (very able) to take the lock apart ,fix the micro switch and put it all back together (three times),your best bet would be a scrapyard
John [/quote]
go on them , how is it done :L
Sad to say you have a sticking micro switch inside the lock mechanism,this can be fixed if you're mad like me and able (very able) to take the lock apart ,fix the micro switch and put it all back together (three times),your best bet would be a scrapyard
John
[/quote]go on them , how is it done :L
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Can't remember now if there's two or three microswitches in the doorlocks but to get at them is a bugger and they can't be removed they have to be worked on in situ(helps if you are a jeweller or like model trains-not for the hamfisted),remove the lock mechanism,take it in the shed and clamp it in a vice,there are two bent pieces of metal holding two halves together,gently bend these straight,you then have a "metal pillar" going through said halves,this has to have the head drilled off...When this has been done the plastic sandwich can be split (held together by a few clip type fixings)BEFORE you gently prise them apart notice where all the bits lie ready for re-assembly....
One microswitch on mine was sticking in intermittently and had to have the case gently butchered to get rid of something fouling it and a new cover out of a piece of plastic glued back in place,the other microswitch ran on a cam and had worn down,this was gently "forced" nearer the cam and has caused me no trouble since...
Please get a replacement from the breakers yard before attempting this as it is not for the feint hearted
Best of luck
John
One microswitch on mine was sticking in intermittently and had to have the case gently butchered to get rid of something fouling it and a new cover out of a piece of plastic glued back in place,the other microswitch ran on a cam and had worn down,this was gently "forced" nearer the cam and has caused me no trouble since...
Please get a replacement from the breakers yard before attempting this as it is not for the feint hearted
Best of luck
John
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180 Posts
yes the brackers yard is the better way if you do i wood go in your car with the door striped down and plug the new lock into the door loom to make sure it works as this is a common fult as we all now no :L
Appreciate what you're saying John in that it's not for the faint hearted. One of those jobs you wish you hadn't started really. Nonetheless, it's good to know that it can be done, and good to know exactly what the problems are. My late 97 2.0 has, for the last year or so, been doing very odd things with the central/remote locking, with one lock just developing a total mechanical jam...won't lock at all, the drivers door works partly when it feels like it etc. Trouble is, with Mk 2's getting on a bit now, most of the scrappy locks will be on the way out too...so we may all have to develop the skills and patience you describe to fix them. Maybe someone could do a photo how to?
I have had the sort of problem on my Mk2 about 2 years ago, the key fob should have unlocked the drivers door 1st and then if you press unlock again, it should unlock the rest. Well, after a while the key fob didnt work and when using the key it unlocked all except the passenger side.
Ford told me that it was the [color:red]lock motor[/color] but I found a resource on the web that said about the alarm picking up static etc.
To cut a long story short, the is a fuse/relay box under the glove box, I removed the fuse/relay and replaced it. HEY PRESTO all the locks and key fob starting working again.
Make sense?
Maybe I was lucky....
Ford told me that it was the [color:red]lock motor[/color] but I found a resource on the web that said about the alarm picking up static etc.
To cut a long story short, the is a fuse/relay box under the glove box, I removed the fuse/relay and replaced it. HEY PRESTO all the locks and key fob starting working again.
Make sense?
Maybe I was lucky....
Extract from
Link here about 1/3 way down.
No central locking / alarm / double locking:
This will more then likely be caused by one of three things. 1) The power connector has fallen out / become corroded from the alarm system - check the last connector on the far right of the module. 2) The fuse for the system has blown - in the passenger footwell fuse box, test and replace fuse number 25 - Its a yellow 20amp one and supplies power to the control box. (Also check fuses 30 and 32 whilst there) 3) The alarm module box has failed in some way. Replacements are expensive from ford so go to your local breakers and try one from there. All mondeo's of your year (except diesel's and ST's) will have the same alarm module as yours so you can take it from an aspen or a Ghia - it makes no difference. The alarm module changed wiring connectors from 95 onwards so you'll need to find the module that suits your car and make sure you test before buying!
Also....
If your alarm module is not allowing new remote key programming:
Effecting a large number of control modules, although mainly Mk2 - the module collects static electricity down the aerial wire. Over time this stops the system from recognising the existing code from the IR keyfob leading the owner to attempt reprogramming (which is also not possible with static on the aerial). There is no real solution for this problem although a temporary fix can be done - unplug all three (in some cases just two) connectors going into the alarm/control module, leave for between 10 and 15 minutes to allow the static to dissapate. Reconnect and reprogram the remote (Details) . The immobiliser system stores its code on memory known as ROM which is unnafected by power loss and therefore will be unnafected and should NOT need to be reprogrammed.
And this part of the web as well..Link
Hope this helps?
Link here about 1/3 way down.
No central locking / alarm / double locking:
This will more then likely be caused by one of three things. 1) The power connector has fallen out / become corroded from the alarm system - check the last connector on the far right of the module. 2) The fuse for the system has blown - in the passenger footwell fuse box, test and replace fuse number 25 - Its a yellow 20amp one and supplies power to the control box. (Also check fuses 30 and 32 whilst there) 3) The alarm module box has failed in some way. Replacements are expensive from ford so go to your local breakers and try one from there. All mondeo's of your year (except diesel's and ST's) will have the same alarm module as yours so you can take it from an aspen or a Ghia - it makes no difference. The alarm module changed wiring connectors from 95 onwards so you'll need to find the module that suits your car and make sure you test before buying!
Also....
If your alarm module is not allowing new remote key programming:
Effecting a large number of control modules, although mainly Mk2 - the module collects static electricity down the aerial wire. Over time this stops the system from recognising the existing code from the IR keyfob leading the owner to attempt reprogramming (which is also not possible with static on the aerial). There is no real solution for this problem although a temporary fix can be done - unplug all three (in some cases just two) connectors going into the alarm/control module, leave for between 10 and 15 minutes to allow the static to dissapate. Reconnect and reprogram the remote (Details) . The immobiliser system stores its code on memory known as ROM which is unnafected by power loss and therefore will be unnafected and should NOT need to be reprogrammed.
And this part of the web as well..Link
Hope this helps?
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