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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HELP PLEASE!

ok I'm halfway through changing a spring. Thought I'd got all the hard stuff out of the way but now stuck on what should be a simple part!

I've removed the lower arm to knuckle pinch bolt, but for the life of me I can't get the knuckle off the balljoint stub. I've even tried 3 different sized hammers.

What's the correct/approved/easy way to dislocate this?
 

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I have found the lower arm to knuckle particularly difficult to seperate.

I remove the other 2 bolts holding the arm to the subframe - this allows it to move more also relieves strain on the rear bush of the lower arm (it can get damaged if over strained.

Then use a wedge to open up the knuckle, an old screwdriver blade or small cold chisel works well.
You will fing one good push shpuld get it free.
If you dont push ahrd enought it will spring back in.
 

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HELP PLEASE!

ok I'm halfway through changing a spring. Thought I'd got all the hard stuff out of the way but now stuck on what should be a simple part!

I've removed the lower arm to knuckle pinch bolt, but for the life of me I can't get the knuckle off the balljoint stub. I've even tried 3 different sized hammers.

What's the correct/approved/easy way to dislocate this?
It needs to be screwed out IIRC. I Think the bolt screws into the pinch as well as the nut. I have never had trouble by unscrewing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Gary
As per the Haynes method for changing the spring, I've lowered the subframe to give clearance so the bush shouldn't be an issue. I don't really fancy unbolting the wishbone but I think it may be springing back as you mentioned, I've malleted it quite a bit and have moved it about 2mm, so as you say I think it needs one good tug rather than keep hitting it, I'll try that cheers!

@Mabok01
Thanks mate but I'm one step ahead of that, I got the bolt out with some difficulty, it wasn't threaded into the knuckle but still ended up having to turn it cos it was stuck so fast.
 

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dont know if you still need this info but if ur stuck still then i found a trolley jack & some rope handy in seperating the 2 stubborn parts.

basically position the jack under the brake disk/hub & then tie the rope round the lower arm & also the front axel of the trolley jack ( it does not need to be tight this basically is there to stop the arm raising & not to pull it down )

then jack up the hub a smidge till it seperates from the arm, yoiu can then wedge somthing in the gap or secure the spring in some compressors to lessen the force pushing the strut back down some etc.

word of caution though dont go too high or at least make sure the jack & / or strut is secured & unable to move in any other direction than upwards as its easy for the jack to be forced off coarse & driveshaft damage & lots & lots of swearing will follow
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
basically position the jack under the brake disk/hub & then tie the rope round the lower arm & also the front axel of the trolley jack
That is an awesome idea!

No I didn't get chance yet, I already thought of jacking the hub a little but I don't think enough. I can't compress the spring so not sure what will happen when I release it. Next step is to get the knuckle off the strut.
 

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I've removed 2 steering knuckles on an '04 & '06 and both were fairly easy. As has been said once you've removed the bolt I use a cold chisel in the 'split' to open up the opening in the knuckle and then support the knuckle while tapping the wishbone downwards. To remove the knuckle from the strut is a similar process, drive a tapered cold chisel into the split and it will open the knuckle enough to just slip it off if you're lucky, if not then tap the knuckle downwards with a heavy rubber mallet. If you look at the factory manual it shows a special tool that's inserted into the split and rotated 90 degrees, this has the same effect of opening the split & loosening the grip on the strut.

Be careful when refitting the subframe, it's best to nip up the bolts on the side that you've loosened after jacking the unbolted side of the subframe up, this will allow you to put a socket extension or similar into the alignment holes to enable the bolts to be refitted. I had problems with the job the second time I did it and cross threaded the subframe bolt at the rear - nightmare!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, so it turns out it was just clogged with crap. After it soaking for a week in WD40, one decent whack with a mallet and it popped out along with a load of slimy, gunky crap. it was then easily levered off and to the side with a long bar. To be fair when I came to do the job I couldn't even see the gap in the pinch, and the bolt was stuck in so securely with crap I couldn't knock it out with a lump hammer.

Thanks for all the suggestions though!

My next question: does the strut go all the way through the knuckle and stick out the bottom? If so it looks like I need about 40mm clearance at least to get it off, but there's only now a finger width gap above the driveshaft?

Also the battery went flat and the odo now says ------ is that normal?
 
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